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AROUND THE CONTINENT
  • Catherine Folinsbee
  • Catherine Folinsbee

AROUND THE CONTINENT

A 94-day adventure by Catherine Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 30, 2017
    Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Goodbye to Karen and Joan at NovelTea
    Goodbye to son KarlJabba and Boots are ready to go!1Is there room up top?

    Saying goodbye and packing up

    August 29, 2017 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Tarjei and I (Caty) are almost ready for our three month road trip counterclockwise around Canada and the USA. But what to pack? We will be camping in a pup tent and staying at fancy resorts; hiking in the mountains and dancing in city bars; canoeing through cold rain and tromping through desert heat; all this makes it hard to pack light. Add Jabba and Boots, a couple of goofy 6 year old mutts, and it becomes impossible!

    So, we have done our best. Tomorrow is D day -- departing from Truro, Nova Scotia for points West, then South, East and North. Home by early December we think.

    I am going to try to make a record with this blog app. Here we go!    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    biking with Jabba Boots Gloria Jorg
    Gloria's Digger ToyGrand Lake BeachProsecco Breakfast on the porchCheersGloria and Jorg outside our Capresi Cabin

    GRAND LAKE NEW BRUNSWICK

    August 30, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had our first night of the AROUND THE CONTINENT trip with Gloria and Jorg Beyeler at their house in Grand Lake, New Brunswick.

    It was wonderful! Great friends, lots of good food, conversation and laughter. We stayed in their pretty little "Capresi" cabin, went for a back-country bike ride through lumber woods, saw Gloria's new Kobota Digger Toy, and took the dogs swimming in Grand Lake after their muddy woods run.

    Jorg made a decadent "Prosecco Breakfast" (Spicy eggs in spinach nests served with a glass of bubbly) -- magnificent.

    Great start to our trip.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    campsite 134 at Kouchibouguac
    Tarjei and dogs -- Baie de Chaleurwe got a good fire going despite rainGood canine travellers

    Kouchibouguac

    August 31, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We spent day 2 driving to Kouchibouguac national park. We camped there.

    We had not camped much -- even car camping -- for the last decade. It rained -a Quite hard, for a couple of hours. The temperature dropped to 7 degrees overnight. But our little "marmot" tent was pretty waterproof, and we were snug in our 1975 down bags. The dogs curled up together in a little hollow under a tree. They were tied with 2 long lines to the car. Every hour or so all night, they would leap up and gallop across the campsite after some poor unsuspecting creature -- probably a rodent I suppose.

    Anyway, we were happy that we made it comfortably through the night.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler

    Trois Pistoles Quebec

    September 1, 2017 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    We drove from Kouchibouguac to Trois Pistoles today. We mostly listened to a You tube Download of an audiobook -- BY THE PRICKING OF MY THUMBS -- by Agatha Christie. It is interesting.

    Things I learned today:

    1. I used to think that I slept while Tarjei drove during car trips because I was a working Ob/Gyn with a huge years-long sleep deficit. Now that I have been retired for 2 years I realize that I sleep in the car because I like to sleep in cars. Tarjei likes to drive and is a terrible anxious passenger so it works out well.

    2. When you want to close the Volvo windows, lift UP on the switch. There was a black cat crossing the street outside our lovely BnB in Trois Pistoles. Tarjei noted the fated feline and took immediate Action to prevent our 2 mutts from escaping. Unfortunately he pushed DOWN on the window switch and both dogs leaped out the back window onto Main Street. The black cat took off, followed by 2 black&white canine streaks. We found both dogs later. The cat may still be up a tree.

    3. Trois Pistoles does not mean 3 hand guns. The "Pistole" was and old French coin -- like shilling apparently. The town was named after someone lost a treasure in this part of the St. Lawrence coast -- valuable, worth about 3 "pistoles". The meaning of the word was a disillusionment. Tarjei refuses to believe it. He wants it to mean "gun".

    Now snuggled into BnB. Goodnight.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Caty on ferry crossing St. Lawrence River from Trois Pistoles to Les Escoumins
    1we walked dogs begore dropping them at a kennel for 2nightsTarjei on hike along Fjord de Saguenay1tarjei at 1870 statue overlooking fjord: Our Lady of Immaculate Conception1dinner -- pasta with Gloria's excellent homemade sauce and red winetonight we are experimenting -- sleeping in Volvo to avoid wet tent blues

    PARC DU FJORD DE SAGUENAY

    September 3, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    September 2nd we took the ferry North across the St. Lawrence at the mouth of the Saguenay. We saw lots of seals, a minkie whale, and a beluga. We had to drop the dogs off at a kennel in Chicoutimi because they are not permitted -- even on leash -- at Quebec parks. The mutts seemed perfectly OK with the it -- I guess it's summer camp for them. But I miss them while we camp and hike.

    The park has a spectacular location overlooking the fjord on the lower Saguenay River. Today we did a challenging hike along a trail to a large statue of the Virgin Mary. It was erected in about 1880 by a commercial traveller. Apparently he accidentally drove his wagon into the Saguenay river one winter night but he and his horse were both rescued. He was so thankful that he spent his life raising money to erect this statue in thanks. It is located high above the river and is intended to impress people (like the statue of Christ above Rio du Janeiro.) She is called "Notre Dame de la Conception". She was carved from a huge pine tree, 80 feet high, encased in lead plates painted white and gold. There are cables to keep her from falling over or blowing away.

    It is expected to rain heavily all night. And -- I am a bit embarrassed about this -- we are sleeping in the car. Now, I know that my intrepid purist camping buddies (they know who they are) are shocked and appalled. But the idea of emerging from the cozy tent in the morning and having to fold up masses of sopping wet fabric and dig up the muddy pegs -- it was just too dispiriting. So we have packed up the dry tent. Tarjei and I are lying luxuriously in sleeping bags the back of the station wagon. It reminds me of our university days in Edmonton when we both lived at home....    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Tarjei and mutts on Walking trail Chapais Quebec
    Caty and Jabba walking on woods trailCanadian Shield spruce and pondsTarjei communing with caninesCheminis Lodge in midst of road building

    NORTHERN WOODS

    September 5, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We left Saguenay and have been meandering through Northern Quebec. We have passed by a million scrubby black spruce trees and thousands of ponds/lakes. It has been drizzling off and on. Slightly gray & melancholy seeming.

    This evening we crossed into Ontario. It is raining. We are staying in the first village we came to -- in a hotel in the middle of a road construction zone-- they have finished blasting, but they are still using huge machines to dig out the rubble and the hotel driveway is now part of the highway. The hotel smells strongly of cigarette smoke and cabbage soup. Things are hopping here -- BEAR RIVER GOLD Company from BC is drilling for gold and many of the workers are staying here.

    Also, back home it is the beginning of the school year, of course, and although Tarjei says he is fine, I have noticed that he has been checking the Dal AC website to see who is teaching "his" courses, and how many students there are registered. It is the first September since 1956 that he has not been starting school.

    However, we had dinner at "The Muddy Moose" in Larder, Ontario. It was in fact delicious home made food. With a beer. We are warm and dry, so have absolutely nothing to complain of.

    Tomorrow we plan a long day of driving to a Pukawaska Park on Lake Superior, where we hope to camp and hike for a couple of days.

    We plan sun and crisp fall weather for the next while.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    1Howdy Pa'dner
    caty at Horseshoe Bay2incredible clear waterBlue sky -- lovely day3Dogs having fun

    LAKE SUPERIOR

    September 7, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Tonight we are camping at Pukaskwa (pronounced "puck-a-saw") National Park on the North Shore of Lake Superior. The Group of Seven came here -- it is like a Lauren Harris painting.

    Weather today was sunny but cold. We hiked about 10 km on trails along the shore -- sandy beaches strewn with driftwood, rocky cliffs and coves -- lots of up and down. The water was perfectly clear and azure blue -- so lovely It was tempting to jump in. But it was icy cold. According to the park information Lake Superior is the "world's biggest natural refrigerator" and water temperature varies little between winter & summer.

    Another great dinner by the fire of vermicelli and tomato sauce with red wine. We watched a spectacular sunset into the lake. There is a possibility of frost tonight, but probably not here because the Lake, though cold, will keep the shore above zero for now. We will be snug in our winter bags and dogs will curl up in their nests in fur coats.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Tipis at sunset
    Morning sun through smokey haze -- Northern Saskatchewan forest firesTarjei and dogs on Eagle ButteBlack-tailed prairie dog sounding alarm -- evil maritime dogs close by!1Big Bull Bison1Tarjei enjoying blue corn chips with beer. Is there mouse dropping topping?

    GRASSLANDS NATIONAL PARK, SASKATCHEWAN

    September 12, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We were very excited about camping in Grasslands National Park in the South-West corner of Saskatchewan.

    So, on September 10th we made a long drive from Kenora Ontario to Weyburn Saskatchewan, with a lunch stop to visit Laurie Connor (former AC prof) in Winnipeg. We met at "The Forks" (area in central Winnipeg where the Red River meets the Assiniboine) and Laurie treated us to a great lunch with home made muffins to speed us on our way to a dog-friendly Weyburn motel. Then yesterday we drove to Grasslands where we are living in a tipi for a couple of nights.

    The park was created in the 1980's to preserve some of the original prairie plant and animal species, and it is beautiful. The dry rolling hills are teaming with bird life (hawks, grouse, pheasants, owls, and lots of others) and mammals (bison, mule deer, coyotes, foxes, and "towns" of black-tailed prairie dogs). It is a desert, with the winding Frenchman River running through it. When we arrived it was 32 degrees Celsius and the café owner at the park entrance said it was a welcome change from the 36 degree heat of the last few weeks. But at night in our tipi, we need our warm sleeping bags as the temperature drops close to zero. There is haze in the air from forest fire smoke from Northern Saskatchewan. This makes the sun look fiery orange at times.

    We have been hiking lots with dogs on leash. There are flat prairies, rolling hills, and massive buttes with cliffs. The dogs have been on high alert with all the wild animals. Boots and Jabba moan with frustration when they see deer or prairie dogs and they cannot run after the creatures. However, in the tipi we give them free range to decimate the rodent life, which is prolific. Or it was on the first night, but now (I am writing this in my sleeping bag on night #2) there is a total absence of squeaks and rustling which we heard on night #1.

    Some of our most interesting moments on this trip involve conversations with other people -- we get a glimpse into someone else's life. The woman who owns the café in Val Marie, the village next to the park, said she came from Toronto 4 years ago to visit because her mother had been born here. She stayed and started the café for a different pace of life.
    "I made documentaries for the CBC, and there was always pressure to produce. They say you're only as good as your next documentary. Here, my life is my own to live."

    She makes awesome cappuccinos.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    John and Peggy Folinsbee
    1Tarjei with Lynda, brother Jon, nephew Tyler, sister TineEric's WakeCaty and Sarah eating lunch at Lake WabamunCaty and Sarah paddling on Lake WabamunTarjei building fire on stormy day

    EDMONTON AND LAKE WABAMUN, ALBERTA

    September 19, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ❄️ 1 °C

    We drove from Grasslands Park to Edmonton, Alberta where we stayed for a few days with my brother John and his kind wife Peggy. They were so welcoming -- I love them dearly.

    Each time I visit Edmonton, I am young again, free, a pseudo-hippie student living in a co-op house in Garneau. It is as if I am transported back to 1970 when the world was a gentler place and possibilities were endless. This visit was especially poignant because there was a Wake for our old friend Eric who died a couple of weeks ago. He was a draft-dodging Californian, a tipi maker, a back-country camper, anti-establishment, opinionated, and he resisted all labels. He left an indelible footprint on our lives. The Wake was a time for meeting old friends we hadn't seen for 35 years. We told stories, laughed a lot, and drank way too many toasts. Eric would have hated to miss it. Thank you Sarah for arranging it.

    After spending three days with family and friends in Edmonton, Tarjei and I drove West to the 1928 Folinsbee family cabin at Coal Point on Lake Wabamun, and Sarah came out too. Sarah & I used to paddle Alberta rivers together every summer, joking about how we hoped to still be doing it when we were 60 (an incredibly ancient age when you are 22.). So we got the old Thompson canoe out of the boathouse and paddled around for the afternoon. Boots ran and swam frantically behind us, afraid of being abandoned. Jabba watched from shore, unperturbed.

    We woke this morning to find the weather had turned cold and stormy -- high winds and driving rain, which we hope will help extinguish the Western fires. I am hunkering down by the fireplace inside, thankful not to be canoeing on Maligne Lake. The cold windy rainy weather is expected to continue for the next few days, so we have changed our plans. Instead of canoeing and camping on Maligne Lake, we are hiking and staying in a cabin in the Rockies. As the Norwegians say, "De finnes ikke dårlig vær, bare dårlig vær!" -- "No such thing as poor weather, just poor clothing" (And, I must add, appropriate planning).    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Caty & Tarjei Hiking last day of summer
    Jame Caty Tarjei Sharon hiking in snowLog in snowGrouse in snow -- can you see it?Lunch on a log. Hot coffeeJame and Tarjei

    HIKING ON THE LAST DAY OF SUMMER

    September 21, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ❄️ -2 °C

    We are staying in Canmore with our friends Jame and Sharon Thompson. Beautiful modern condo with everything you could desire.

    Today, the last day of summer, we went hiking. I trailed behind as we climbed up to Burstall Pass in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park.

    I have always been the slowest hiker/skier/walker in our group of very fit friends. Like Leonard Cohen--

     "I've always liked it slow:
    I've never liked it fast.
    With you it's got to go
    With me it's got to last."

    I simply don't have a "quick" setting, but I get there in the end.

    Anyway, it was a long challenging very beautiful hike. Tarjei, Jame and Sharon all waited for me. 15 km later, we were back at the car.

    Now we are sitting in the condo by the fire, thinking of making dinner. It doesn't look much like summer out there.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Allin's Table at Windy Point, Lake Abraham. Alice, Ian, Caty
    Tarjei Jabba & Boots at Lake AbrahamVolvo on Forestry Trunk Road -- mud stuck like cement.Morning in tent -- plus 2degrees CMountain meadowSun and mointain air

    MOUNTAIN TIME

    September 24, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We have spent the last few days in the Rocky Mountains.

    My brother Allin died 3 years ago of hypothermia on a mountain overlooking Lake Abraham which is on the upper North Saskatchewan River. Alice, my sister-in-law, had a picnic table installed by the lake as a remembrance and we met for a picnic there on Sunday along with Allin's son Ian. It meant a lot to me to see the mountain and think about his life and death.

    Since then we have been enjoying a little hiking on mountain trails and some camping. The best camping place was at Lake Louise where the entire campground was surrounded by a six-strand electric fence to keep the grizzlies out. It seemed to work.

    Camping out is getting pretty chilly -- the dogs snuggle together for warmth, and we appreciate our down bags. As long as it stays dry, we are comfortable even with freezing temperatures.

    Tomorrow we meet Jill and Charlotte, my class of '77 medical school friends, for a hike into Skoki Lodge near Lake Louise. After a couple of days of back country luxury, we go to our 40 year medical school graduation reunion. Hard to believe!    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    1Mountainside and lake with larches.
    Hiking around Skoki-- Allistair Charlotte Caty Jill TarjeiStopping for lunchCharlotte, Caty, Jill relaxing in Lodge1Our cabin with Tarjei reading.Dinner at Skoki

    SKOKI

    September 29, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Skoki Lodge is located in Banff National Park backcountry, a 12 km walk from the nearest road. There is a main lodge and several cabins, the first built in the early 1930's. They are still being used today. There is no running water, no electricity, no cell or wifi. Prince William and Kate helicoptered in and stayed for a few days on their honeymoon (a special bathroom with running water and a toilet were installed, then removed after their visit).

    Tarjei and I hiked in to stay for 2 days with Jill and Charlotte (two of my med school buddies), and Jill's husband Allistair.

    We were lucky to have bright sun and warm days. It froze at night but we were snug in our cabin under warm duvets. The hiking was astonishingly beautiful. The larches turned mountainsides into gold. Tiny mountain lakes were icy cold -- some of us took a very brief dip which was shocking and energizing. The food was fabulous and abundant.

    We laughed so much, argued about politics and wines and whether "larches" and "tamaracks" are the same things (no Mr. Google to check with), and discussed medical practice and retirement and our children.

    Now it is 5 AM. Someone is snoring quietly in the other corner of the cabin. I have just been outside and the sky is filled with stars.

    Today we hike out, pick up the dogs at the kennel, and drive to Vernon for my 40th anniversary med school reunion.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Some of the "Class of 77" women hiking
    Spectacular Sparkling Hill2Tarjei trying to go incognito in white robe & slippers1Swimming in Infinity Pool

    CLASS OF 77 REUNION

    September 29, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    On Friday we hiked out from Skoki Lodge and drove to Vernon, B.C. for the University of Alberta Medical Class of 1977 reunion. It was held at the Sparkling Hills Spa and Resort in the Okanagan Valley.

    Sparkling Hill is the only 5 star resort we will stay at during our Continental odyssey. It is luxurious and the location is spectacular -- each room has a wall of glass overlooking the Okanagan Valley and Lake or the BC mountains. There is a huge spa with 2 swimming pools, multiple hot tubs, saunas (including a "cryosauna" at minus 166 degrees Fahrenheit), and a Wellness Clinic to "restore the natural balance between body and mind with naturopathy, homeopathy, acupuncture, yoga, botanicals, and crystals." Clients wander the resort in white bathrobes morning to night looking like a sci-fi movie extras. It is a bit comical. When Tarjei came with me to check it out he wore his dark glasses hoping to remain unrecognizable.

    It was really interesting to see our classmates. We had spent 4 years together as a fairly tight-knit group. We all went on to have some sort of medical career -- from family practice to specialty to research to administration. We have changed over the last 40 years. About half of us have retired, although many are still doing occasional locums for fun, or finances, or just because it's hard to change old habits. A few die-hard surgeons were keen to get back to the operating room Monday morning and "get cutting". Most of us are at that stage of life with grown children and grandchildren, but some of us have new young families. We all show signs of wear and tear -- more lines, less hair; more scars (physical and psychological), less raw muscle mass; more skepticism and less naive enthusiasm. However, on the whole we seemed to be relatively healthy and content with our careers and lives. We all had stories to tell -- our careers in medicine have been varied and not boring.

    Every one of us had plans for the future, new interests and passions. We discussed: Cooking, reading, writing, scuba diving, skiing, hiking, traveling, learning new languages, carpentry, yoga. We still have lives ahead of us.

    We meet again in 5 years, location to be determined.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Anne and Caty swimming Okanagan Lake
    Farmers market in Vernon1Anne and Caty hikingDinner and Laughter with Ida in CastlegarTarjei, Ida and Volvo in CastelgarTarjei and dogs

    BC INTERIOR

    October 5, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We stayed in Vernon for 3 days with my med school friend Anne and her husband. They had a beautiful condo on the shore of Okanagan Lake. We had sunny weather, great for hiking and wine tasting and visiting Okanagan farmers' markets. Anne and I swam in the chilly lake one afternoon -- reviving with a hot tub and glass of good BC wine. It was interesting to talk about old times and how things had changed in medicine and in our lives.

    After Vernon, we picked up the dogs from Hy Country Pet Resort and drove east to Castlegar where Tarjei's sister Ida lives. It was great to see the dogs again -- we had missed them -- they are an integral part of our lives. In Castlegar we spent a fun couple of days with Ida -- she is such a sweet positive person. She also is an amazing carpenter -- she has single-handedly rebuilt her kitchen, bathrooms, bedrooms -- tearing down walks, building cupboards, On Thursday night we all created a feast of Coho Salmon with blueberry sauce, yam & kale salad, and apple pie with icecream.

    Now we are on our way to North Vancouver to see friends and son Max for Thanksgiving weekend, and also check out Vancouver Filmfest.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    2Tarjei's interesting haircut.
    Cowboy Tarjei and Max at the bar.1Max and Tarjei in Vancouver2Swan, Boots, and quacking audience.2Tarjei Max and CatyCaty and Max

    VANCOUVER: TARJEI GETS HACKED

    October 9, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    In Vancouver, Tarjei got his hair cut at a small Korean barber shop. He gave his usual request: "Short, but don't make me look like I'm in the army". Unfortunately, the barber spoke little English and heard "...make me look like I'm in the army....". Hair hacked. The barber even created a little bald spot over Tarjei's left ear. Since then, Tarjei has been wearing a cowboy hat everywhere. It looks good.

    We stayed with old friends Anne Marie and Jeff in North Van. They have a cool house and wonderful garden --raised beds in the front where they grow lots of vegetables. This apparently annoys the neighbors whose taste in front yard landscape includes only manicured smooth green lawn and neatly pruned geraniums. We managed to further alienate the neighbors by having Jabba and Boots leap over the fence dragging their tie-out lines, causing damage to a small tree and some geranium pots. This required a contrite confession followed by monetary compensation.

    We walked along the shore of Vancouver Harbour with the dogs. There was a small pond with many ducks and one large swan. Of course, the canine primeval (and evil) hunting instinct prevailed. Boots (off leash) leaped in and paddled madly after the swan. The swan gave her a disdainful glance and sailed effortlessly ahead. Boots surged forward straining every muscle to catch up. The swan swept about the pond in graceful curves, followed by a panting drooling Boots, and then a whole flock of silly quacking ducks providing applause for the victorious bird family. The human crowd of Thanksgiving Day walkers lined the shore shouting ineffectually: "Here Boy! Come on Boy!" and "Someone should call the parks guy. That poor swan!" And "Does anyone own that dog?" To which Tarjei replied "No clue -- I think it must be a stray" as he patted Jabba (still on leash). Boots was nearly drowning when she finally gave up and swam over to our end of the pond where Tarjei had to haul her up onto shore. She slept well that night.

    It was great to see Max and his small apartment -- very neat and clean and "koselig" (cozy) in West end Vancouver. We went walking and ate great food and saw a good movie at Vancouver International Film Fest.

    Now we are leaving Vancouver -- visiting my cousin Ann in Aldergrove for lunch -- and crossing the border. We are feeling some trepidation as we prepare to drive South along the West Coast of the USA. We will see what adventures we can stir up.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Caty on Washington Ferry to Olympic Penninsula
    Jabba and Boots at Palace Hotel -- finally they are princess-dogs2Sunset over Pacific oceanSand dunes Oregon Coast2Hike among Sand Dunes OregonRainbow at Oregon-California border

    WEST COAST WASHINGTON & OREGON

    October 12, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    We left Vancouver Tuesday October 10th. We spent 4 days meandering along the West Coast of Washington and Oregon. We were amazed by the variety of rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, scrubby beach grass, and always the sea, the waves, the crashing breakers and hissing surf. Along the Oregon coast we hiked among huge sand dunes like the Sahara desert. The spectacular sunsets over the sea were amazing. It was a beautiful drive. We have avoided cities and freeways -- we took a ferry to the Olympic Peninsula, then turned south on the 101. We drove west of Seattle and Portland. We stayed in a smelly el cheapo roadside motel and a fancy luxury upscale chalet with a jacuzzi and a fireplace and a wonderful ocean view. We ate great steamed local fresh fish, and Denny's grilled cheese.

    We hiked each day -- not really far -- (5 - 13 km) but enough. It sometimes rained, mostly at night. It has been unexpectedly exciting to see so much change in coastline as we move South.

    In Port Townsend, I swam in the local swimming pool one morning. The town is a pretty little place with a long maritime history, including a visit from Captain Cook. The pool was great but seemed a little shorter than I expected. I asked the life guard and he explained that it was short because the pool was built by pirates. "You see," he explained, " The pirates didn't use meters --- they use YARRRDS!"

    Now we are off to California and will be dodging the 2017 Wildfires.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    1Safari tent with queen sized bed
    California Wilfires October 14, 2017Caty and Tarjei outside "Husch" wineryCaty sewing screen patch.Tarjei on California Coast.4Beautiful Northern California Coast

    CALIFORNIA -- talk to me of Mendocino

    October 17, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    When we left Oregon, we had planned to spend a few days exploring the Napa and Sonoma valleys and drinking wine. However, the terrible wildfires foiled our plans. So, with typical meticulous planning, Tarjei asked, "Remember that Kate and Anna McGarrigle song about Mendocino?" And I said, "I love that song! Let's go there instead!" So we did.

    Mendocino is a tiny town and it was Saturday. Hotels and BnB's were expensive and already full. Mendocino Grove Aging Hippie Campground was the solution. You could pitch your own tent but we chose to rent the "Safari Tent" (the "Retrofitted Airstream" seemed TOO decadent). It had a queen sized bed with beautiful duvet, hot water bottles available for those chilly nights (it did drop down to 4 degrees C). There was a view of the ocean and a morning campfire in the meadow with two kinds of hot porridge, lots of toppings (fresh fruit, real maple syrup, nuts, raisins, goji berries, chia seeds and brewers yeast). The only downside was that Jabba scratched a large hole in the screen door while Tarjei and I went to the central bathroom to brush our teeth. I spent a couple of hours sewing on a new piece of screen, which we brought with us on the trip in case of having to sleep in the car. The dogs slept curled up outside after that.

    We stayed two nights in our comfortable tent. We walked around the pretty little town of Mendocino, which is perched on a little spit of land overlooking the Pacific. I window shopped but bought nothing -- it seems to me that we all have too much "stuff" and no room for more. We ate some great food. We drank local wine and beer. We looked at paintings and crafts and home-made toys.

    Yesterday we packed up and drove along the Anderson Valley which is the wine production area of Mendocino County. It looked a lot like the Okanagan with the arid sandy hills interspersed with beautiful green irrigated rows of vines. We tasted --and bought -- some really good Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel, and even a sparkling Pinot Gris. We bypassed the wildfires -- although we could see the smoke. So sad to think that people were killed because the fire spread so quickly in the winds.

    Now we are at Lake Tahoe and tarjei is itching to get going for the day.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    1Tarjei goofing around -- pretending to be dying of thirst in the desert.
    Sony commercial film crew2Blatant anti-dog discrimination.1Our rustic tent.Volvo & HooDoosVolvo on steep track1Tarjei cooking breakfast in campCaty eating breakfast in campBeautiful rocks etched by wind, water & timeSalt flats

    DEATH VALLEY

    October 19, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Tarjei really wanted to visit Death Valley. It all has to do with watching way too many cowboy shows on TV when he was little. Tarjei’s parents allowed him unlimited TV time, whereas my parents permitted only 1 hour per week — usually Walt Disney, 7 PM on Sunday night. This is just one of the many profound cultural differences between the WASPs and the Vikings. You can imagine how this clash of civilizations affected our own child raising practices.

    We stayed 2 nights in the Panamint (“Gathering of the Peoples” in a native language) campground at the entrance to Death Valley National Park. We slept in a small tent set up with camp cots (a far cry from Mendocino luxury queen size bed, but still very comfortable). The sunny desert sky was slightly hazy from the smoke of wildfires far to the west, but at night it seemed to clear and the stars were brilliant. I had my usual opportunity to see the stars at 11 PM, 2 AM, and 4 AM, as well as the sunrise around 6:30 AM. It was fun to cook on a camp stove again. We made pasta with sauce and salad for dinner, scrambled eggs with onions and cheese and herbs for breakfast.

    The nights were a bit chilly, but by noon in Furnace Springs it was 34 ° C. We did some hiking with dogs in the morning along the rugged desert track towards “Skidoo” — presumably not related to the Canadian Brand snowmobile and more related to the “23 Skidoo” slang phrase). By afternoon the heat and sun made it just too oppressive to walk anywhere except across the road to the campground café for a cold beer. Species discrimination was rampant — there were anti-Dog regulations on many of the trails, but the café did provide bowls of ice water for canine friends at the outside tables.

    We came accross the same Japanese film crew 3 times in the last 2 days. The state police and park rangers stopped traffic and diverted walkers while the crew filmed the stark desert landscape of cliffs and rocks and salt flats. On our third encounter, I finally asked one of crew what it was they were making. He said it was a commercial for Sony Corp —something to do with a new video system.

    The landscape was dramatic — dry, rocky, sandy, harsh, unforgiving. Cliffs. Salt flats. You could easily die here. But we survived and it was beautiful, even though John Wayne and Clint Eastwood never put In an appearance.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    1Sun behind Pueblo Bonito, Chaco Canyon
    1Caty & Tarjei at Chetro Ketl, Chaco CanyonView of Canyon de Chelly from rimView through windows at Chetro KetlPetrograph on rock at Canyon de ChellyLizard soaking up sun and blending inWindow Rock at Navajo Nation HeadquartersView of Walls, Canyon de Chelly1Dorothy Ami, Hopi Potter, telling stories as she demonstrates her skill2Cherro Ketl Ruins, Chaco Canyon New Mexico

    THIS IS THE HOPI WAY

    October 25, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Tarjei originally wanted to be an anthropologist. He got side-tracked by biology, and never looked back. However, he always maintained a secret interest in the indigenous people of North America, especially the gentle Hopi culture. When our kids misbehaved, he used to say, “But That is not the Hopi Way,” and sometimes they would actually listen. He also pointed out that Hopi women breastfed their babies until age 7 years, and suggested that I might do the same.

    We have spent the last five days in Arizona and New Mexico on an educational expedition with “Road Scholar”. We were in a group of 24 adults, mostly over age 60. We started in Flagstaff Arizona and travelled around in 3 vans. We visited archeological sites abandoned 800 years ago, and pueblo villages built in 1200 AD, which are still inhabited today — stone houses, no running water, no electricity. We climbed up hills, through ruins, and down into canyons. We had music and pottery demonstrations. We heard conflicting views from experts about why settlements were created and why they disappeared. We met really interesting Hopi and Navajo people who showed us their homes. We learned that the Hopi people had been part of the ancient Pueblo culture, but the Navajo were relatively recent arrivals in the American Midwest. The Navajo actually came from the Dene population of Northern Canada — around 1300 AD. We have seen sunrise over the desert It has been great.

    Tomorrow we return to Flagstaff and pick up the car from the parking lot and the dogs from the kennel. Then we continue our journey.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Grand Canyon
    Caty and Boots on South Rim Trail1Tarjei Boots Jabba looking down on Grand CanyonCaty & Tarjei with Maggie Northrup in Flagstaff AZ (Maggie is Nora's husband John' sister)Caty Driving in New MexicoSanta Fe -- Adobe Houses and Cottonwood Trees in Santa FeHallowe'en in Santa FeTarjei eating picnic lunch in courtyard of our hotel in Santa Fe1Tiny Air BnB cabin in Carrizozo, New MexicoTarjei & Mutts in New Mexico desert.

    DRIVING BACK EAST

    November 2, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    It is November 2nd and we have started to head back towards the East. We all (Tarjei, I, Jabba & Boots) have adapted to the gypsy rhythm of packing up every few days, hopping into the car, and driving for 5 - 10 hours, then making camp (or checking into a hotel or BnB) for a day or a few days.

    When we drive, the dogs snooze in the back of the station wagon while Tarjei and I sit up front. The dogs appear perfectly happy to be along with us — providing we stop every few hours for them to jump out, sniff around, and of course heed nature’s call (whether Nature is calling them to pee/poop, or run after a cottontail rabbit which are abundant around here).

    Tarjei usually drives —because he likes to drive and I like to sleep. He is the world’s worst passenger — jumpy, white-knuckled, constantly pointing out the obvious traffic hazards (“Watch for the red truck pulling out ahead”. “That light is going to change color Soon! Look out!”). He is unable to sleep in the passenger seat, even if he is exhausted. The ONLY time that he slept there in last 14,600 km was when I was driving and pulled up to a road construction site in the Rockies. “Sorry, Ma’am, it’s gonna be 15 minutes before you can drive — might as well just sit tight!” I turned off the ignition and — presto, Tarjei was asleep. He awoke immediately when I started the car as they reopened that stretch of road.

    While we drive, if I am not sleeping, we watch the scenery — very different from home. We often talk or drink coffee or consult the map to plan the next part of the journey. Sometimes we listen to music that Tarjei has downloaded from Spotify — classical or road songs or Leonard Cohen. In Canada we often listened to CBC, but in the USA we usually cannot find NPR. Lately I have been downloading Audiobooks — currently we are bouncing between SAPIENS by Yuval Harare (history of humankind — brilliant) and DEATH OF A DUSTMAN by M. C. Beaton — (Scottish Highlands mystery — brilliant but in a different way entirely). I wish I had written either of them.

    After driving we try to go for a long walk, and if possible I swim— either at the hotel or the local community pool. It keeps us from seizing up.

    I like this routine and will miss it when we get home.

    So over the last few days we have explored Flagstaff Arizona (beautiful high elevation university town), hiked the South Rim of the Grand Canyon (dogs are not allowed below the rim), travelled to Santa Fe New Mexico (every building adobe in soft pink, coral, gold, or shades in between), and then visited Los Alamos (where the atomic bomb was developed). We have eaten lots of Southwest food — chili, tortillas, corn, squash, and beans enough to make us roll down windows as we drive.

    Now we are going South to visit Roswell for another type of “Scientific” discovery — the UFO Center.

    PS. Nov 3 today. We spent last night at a very tiny Air BnB — about 4X5 meters, in a tiny New Mexico village. We made spaghetti and drank red wine. It was lovely. Picture below.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    "Aliens" at Roswell Museum.
    Barton Springs cool swimming area.1Dinner with Charlotte's family plus dogs.Indian food on dog-friendly patio.Kayaking on Lady Bird Lake.Waiting under bridge for bats to emerge.Selfie with Giraffes.Giraffes have purple tongues to prevent sunburn.

    LONE STAR STATE

    November 10, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We left New Mexico after visiting the International UFO Museum in Roswell. It was fun and pretty amateurish. Then we entered Texas. .

    In Texas, flags were at half mast for the church massacre by a former American soldier. The hopeless split between the Gun-lovin’ rednecks and reasonable people meant we travelers simply did not discuss it — with strangers, anyway. (Headline: “Hometown Hero Uses Gun on Gunman”). In fact, when Tarjei became irritated with another driver, I had to warn him “That guy is probably armed, so just cool it.”

    On a cheerier note, we saw the Abilene International Short Film Festival — really great. Very eclectic mix. A Syrian man in a refugee camp tossed his young daughter off the wharf into the sea to teach her to swim because he knew she had to learn to survive on the boat journey accross the Mediterranean. A quirky animated film showed chameleon romance in a subway station.

    We went to a great little bar in downtown Abilene and discovered (much to my disappointment) Abilene Texas is NOT the “prettiest town that I ever seen” — that song is about Abilene Kansas. But there were some very interesting women there, and they didn’t “treat us mean” so we had fun.

    In Austin, we had booked an Air BnB on a whim — an Airstream Trailer in somebody’s backyard. The on-line photo was taken at an angle which made it look quite large, which shows how clever the photographer was. There was barely space for the 4 of us to be in the structure at one time. If Tarjei and I were lying in bed, Boots and Jabba could fit on the floor. So we were very snug.

    We met up with Charlotte (my med school friend) and her husband Barry — they were visiting their son who is doing his PhD in Austin. Charlotte and I went swimming in Barton Springs — a huge natural spring — and the Guys & Dogs went to a canine-friendly bar for local brew. Both the beer and Barton Springs were very large, very cold, and lovely. All of Austin seemed to be dog-friendly. The restaurants had outdoor patios where every table had one or two dogs on leash, and dogs were expected to treat people & other dogs with civility. Jabba and Boots adjusted quickly except for the occasional raised hackles and throaty growl by Boots.

    We had an evening kayak paddle on LadyBird Lake in downtown Austin and watched thousands of bats emerge from under a bridge.

    In San Antonio We visited the Museum of Art and the Zoo. We saw one of my favorite singers, Iris Dement, in concert. (“Let the Mystery Be”, brilliant song, will be heard at my funeral.) She galvanized the audience and had us singing along with protest songs like it was 1968.

    Right now we are driving to Wimberly, Texas to visit our friend Angier Peavy for a couple of days. Who knows what adventures we will have with Angier, who used to be in the American foreign service.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Blanco River in Wimberly Texas
    LB Johnson's Texas ranch houseTexas Barbecue -- the "Salt Lick restaurant serves about 1000 people every night.2"Won't you come in for a swim andlunch?" asks Mr. Ali GatorElectric bikes around AustinAransas Wildlife Refuge -- wet and flat. The white dots are whooping cranesSunrise over the beach at Galveston.Swimming in the Gulf of Mexico at Galveston. The round dot is my head.Walking on the Gulf beach with Boots.Houses close to the Gulf Shore are often built on stilts.

    LONE STAR STATE TWO

    November 15, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We stayed for 3 glorious days in Wimberly, in the Texas Hill country, with kind friends. We ate Real Texas Barbecue, visited an olive orchard, swam in the Blanco River, and had a tour of President Lyndon Johnson’s ranch (known as the “Texas White House” because he spent a lot of time working there.) I never realized how much Lyndon Johnson and his wife “Lady Bird” did for social policy in the US — pro-education, anti poverty, pro-environment, implementing desegregation. It was fascinating.

    We then made a last stop in Austin for an electric bike tour around Lady Bird Lake. I really liked having that extra battery power to zip me up the hills when needed. It was almost like having Jabba or Boots attached by a harness — when they see a rabbit — super-charged.

    Then we drove south to the Gulf of Mexico, to the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. This whole Gulf Shore was clobbered by Hurricane Harvey in August, and has not completely recovered. But the migrating birds from the north have returned as usual, including the Whooping Cranes. They were magnificent. Unfortunately our binoculars were lost earlier on this trip, so we had to make do with our own eagle-vision, but there are high platforms with good views of the habitat — coastal plains where there were 20 - 30 of the tall gawky white birds staring in the water in groups, fishing, occasionally lazily taking off and gliding around. In the background, pelicans circled and dove for fish in the shallow ocean beyond the swamps. We saw many other birds including vultures, gulls, hawks, herons, and egrets.

    After Aransas, we carried on to Galveston Texas on the shore of the Gulf of Mexico. This is a beautiful long white sand beach protected by a sea wall built after a hurricane in 1900 wiped out the city entirely. It is also a site with lots of oil tankers and rigs off shore. The Gulf water is and clear and clean, and about as warm in November as Malagash water in August. I swam for a short while but was a bit cautious of the strong surf with no life guards — I have great respect for the power of the ocean.

    Today we drove East to Louisiana, and are staying in Lafayette which apparently has great Cajun food and music. We are heading out for the evening to find out for sure.    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Eternal Time
    1Happy Time1Breakfast TimeSnack Time1Leaf TimeNap Time1Buddy Time

    TEMPUS FUGIT

    November 20, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    The weeks zip by and we are nearing the end of our journey.

    We travel North from the palm trees to the leafless oaks. December approaches. The days are short, the nights long and dark, the mornings crisp and clear. We drive toward the sunrise and we lose an hour, then regain 60 minutes, depending on our wandering path and the vagaries of time zones. In Arizona, the huge Navajo nation uses daylight savings time (like the rest of the State), but the small Hopi reservation (which is surrounded by Navajo) does not. While we are there, daylight savings time ends and even our cellphones display the wrong hour. Unlike Phileus Fogg in Around the World in Eighty Days, we have no deadline — but in 2017 it is impossible to be unaware of time.

    I find myself wondering how things have changed in the time we have been away.

    Time to go!    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    Friday morning hike to walk off Thursday's feast: Caty, John, Nora, Jabba and Boots
    Parkersburg Turkey Trot Finish Line -- you can see Jabba's tail waving with excitement.Nora Caty Tarjei at Thanksgiving dinnerJohn Northrup with parents Dorsey and Frank1Welcome to dogs at Blennerhasset HotelTarjei, Nora and John hiking.

    WEST VIRGINIA

    November 23, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 2 °C

    We drove to Parkersburg, West Virginia for American Thanksgiving with the Northrup’s. Nora and John flew in from Brooklyn to be with John’s parents and relatives for the holiday.

    It was wonderful to be included in the whole tradition. The US holiday was about family, friendship, eating massive amounts of great traditional food, playing old fashioned games, and just being together.

    We (Tarjei, Caty, Jabba & Boots) stayed at the Blennerhassett Hotel which is a grand old downtown beauty. It was sumptuous and welcoming with multiple gorgeous Christmas Trees in the lobby. There was a welcome sign for the dogs, with complementary biscuits. We were amazed that the staff was so dog-friendly in such an elegant hotel.

    On Thursday morning in City Park there was a 3 mile race called the Turkey Trot. There were children & adults, runners & walkers, strollers & dogs of all sizes and shapes. It was quite exciting and a bit intimidating for Jabba and Boots — particularly when a pair of huge Great Danes towered over them and kept trying to smell their foreign fragrance. After the Turkey Trot we had brunch at the Northrup’s — delicious — including homemade cheese grits.

    The dinner on Thursday evening was held at the Blennerhassett — a feast with turkey, beef, salmon, and all the accompaniments (including lots of wine). Multiple cousins from age 1 to 35 got to renew their friendships. It was so much fun to see the small children running and giggling and tumbling, then getting up to do it again. After dinner, the 20 - 35 year olds went bowling while the rest of us staggered off to bed.

    On Friday morning we had a nice little hike with Nora and John, then said goodbye.

    Next stop: CANADA!    Read more

  • Catherine FolinsbeeAROUND THE CONTINENTTraveler
    First sunrise in Canada -- over Lake Eerie.
    Beach at Eerie, Pensylvania. Tarjei showing Jabba & Boots where Canada is.Walking on north shore of Lake Eerie.Caty and Mary Jean Folinsbee1Santa came for a visit after the parade. His beard was real but his smile was fake.Photo of Viking dogs -- remind me of somebody.Leonard Cohen exhibit in Montreal.Jabba's favorite place in the car.Boots likes to watch for cats etc.Last Supper with Gliria and Jorg in Fredericton.

    MEANWHILE, BACK IN CANADA

    November 28, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    It is hard to describe the feeling of crossing the border back into Canada. Relief? Joy? Maybe just the heartfelt warmth of being HOME (even though it was Ontario).

    When we crossed the Peace Bridge at Niagara, the border agent said “Truro! Do you know Michelle Frizzel? I used to ... know her ... years ago ....” wistfully. Oh, Canada!

    We stayed with Mary Jean Folinsbee in Nanticoke on the north shore of Lake Eerie. Mary Jean mentioned that she had a neighbor who was still swimming daily in the lake — in a wet suit — but the water was rough and uninviting. Oh, and there was a skiff of ice around the shore. I went in MJ’s hot tub (104 F) instead.

    We reminisced about old times, ate and drank well, hiked in the woods and saw the local Santa Claus Parade.

    From Nanticoke, we drove on to Toronto, where we saw the Viking exhibit at the ROM. We learned that they had dogs like Jabba (see photo) and were poets and explorers (as Tarjei has claimed for years).

    We drove east to Montreal where we saw the Leonard Cohen multimedia presentation at the Musée d’Art Contemporain. It was awe-inspiring. There were old NFB films, CBC interviews, dance and sculpture and Leonard’s songs everywhere. It was powerful and even moved Tarjei to tears. We went to the Jewish cemetery on Mount Royal where we visited his grave and walked with Jabba and Boots. We had a great dinner with niece Kaila and her family.

    Now we are back in the Maritimes, driving south on the Trans Canada through New Brunswick. In a twist of serendipity we are having our last dinner on the road with Gloria and Jorg in Fredericton. We started our trip — Day 1, August 30, with Gloria and Jorg in New Brunswick at their Cottage.

    We have come full circle Around The Continent.    Read more

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