har rejst i 7 lande Læs mere
  • Dag 61

    Bariloche

    16. januar 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Louis and I have begun our final leg tour of Patigonia.

    Tearful goodbye to Eyob this morning in BA. We're taking bets on whether he actually makes it home alone or whether he gets lost.

    Arrived here 4pm. Louis wanted to go for a bike ride so we hired two bikes for NZ $40. Rode roughly 30km up a hill for a summit photo and a collection of sores. Now I remember my contempt for cycling; seats so uncomfortable, the Devil couldn't have made them better.

    Nice scenery, reminds me of Lake Taupo. Louis thinks it's more like Queenstown. It is more arid than NZ, however.

    Got dinner on the cheap again (we're out of the cities and back to small towns). NZ $15 for a steak.

    Pics: (1) Summit view; (2) Ready to ride; (3) Lakeside.
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  • Dag 59

    La Boca

    14. januar 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Boca is a southern suburb of Buenos Aires. Working class and the home of the famous Boca Juniors FC. With Louis and Eyob in bed til 2pm, it was another solo trip for me.

    The football season is on summer break but Boca's stadium and attached museum are still open for tours. Tour conducted in Spanish - interesting. Also curious is that former club president Macri is now the Argentinian president - 'panem et circences' works in any political period.

    Met two dutch guys who support Heereveen FC (the club Marco Rojas plays for). Talked about both him and Ryan Thomas (another All White in Holland).

    Have found a free poker live stream and have been watching that for the past 2 days - maybe travel to Vegas next.

    Pics: (1) Stadium; (2) Maradona statue (Boca's favourite son); (3) Messi and Che Guavara - interesting partnership; (4) Stadium; (5) Signed Maradona shirt; (6) Terrance stands, no seats - a proper football stadium.
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  • Dag 57

    Buenos Aires

    12. januar 2018, Argentina ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Literally translates to the city of "good airs". Probably the cleanest city and most developed city we've been to. The people dress quite upmarket and there are no stray dogs roaming the place. Very wide roads (up to 14 lanes) reminiscent of New York etc.

    Spent yesterday walking around. There was a protest on outside govt house (some union movement striking). Every second park here is a memorial to the Falklands (Malvinas, sorry). Also found an old frigate you can walk around for about $1 NZD. Pics all attached.

    Other than that, not much to say. Just another big city really.

    Pics: (1) A tank at the Ministry of Defence; (2) The strike; (3) A gun aimed right at Oracle's headquarters; (4) Torpedo; (5) A statute; (6) 14 lane road - still able to jay-walk it.
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  • Dag 56

    Out of the frying pan..

    11. januar 2018, Argentina ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    BA is even hotter than Rio. I don't know how - it's further south - but it is. Fan is on permanently and we are all down to boxer shorts.

    It is midday, we are going to sleep, will go out tonight maybe.Læs mere

  • Dag 54

    Last Day in Rio

    9. januar 2018, Brasilien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It's Dimitri again. Haven't got much to say. Went to the beach, played football and now going to sleep. Copacabana is nice but the heat is not. Life is also quite slow here, too slow for me. Like a Greek island - nice to visit, would never live there.

    I've refrained from writing much on the favela gangs to avoid unnecessarily worrying certain readers (we all know who they are). Louis gave you a snapshot. I'll just say that this definitely the diciest place I've seen. We're mostly left alone but it's impossible to avoid interaction and not all of it's been positive (mostly just these last 2 days). Can elaborate more at home.

    We check out 5 am tomorrow so early start. No pics sorry.
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  • Dag 53

    Favela

    8. januar 2018, Brasilien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    By Louis

    Last week I walked down to the cafe to get a caffeinated drink. It was 7am on New Years Days; I hadn’t slept. This was when I met Paolo again.

    Paolo calls himself ‘O Rato’. We were first introduced at a favela funk rave that morning. He grew up in Babilônia. Thirteen years ago he moved to Miami. At the time he was 25.

    Paolo offered to help me order. The cafe did not have any Red Bull left. We left instead with Brazilian beers. My offer to sit and watch the sunset received a counter: “You must see the favela Louis”.

    Paolo introduced me to Tomajeit and Havteem. These boys are lookouts for the local gang. Dimitri made prior mention that the Glock they carry is worth more than their yearly wage.

    Tomajeit was reluctant to look at me. His pistol never left his lap. Havteem stared deep into my eyes. He gripped my hand like some sort of ladder to prosperity.

    Paolo pulled me out of earshot. “You have to see both sides of the favela.” We walked away. We walked to Babilônia.

    “Have you ever fired a gun before?”
    “Only a .22 rifle.” I replied.

    The lookouts at the first checkpoint raised their eyes. “Paolo. You’re not meant to bring Americans.

    Weed, cocaine, what do you want?” We were close to the stash.

    Paolo reassured him. “He’s my friend. He doesn’t have a camera.”

    Pedro smiled and looked away from his giant M16.

    And there it was, around the corner and up a small flight of stairs. The heart of darkness. A seething mass of local women, dancing. Some I had seen at the party earlier. Many men with M16s stood guard.

    “Let him hold the gun Leandro.”

    My trigger discipline was immaculate, if I may say so. Paolo took four photos. Leandro told me to put my left hand on the barrel. It didn’t get scolded, despite the heat of the day. He said something into his Bluetooth headset. He extended the stock into the pit of my shoulder.

    A can was produced and I lined up the sights. The dancers didn’t even stop when I fired the gun. My shoulder hurt a little but it was otherwise unremarkable.

    Gabriel is the lookout outside our hostel. On NYE Paolo also introduced me to him.

    “Can you get me a hamburger?” he asked me on Thursday. When I returned it was clear he wasn’t just preoccupied: he wanted me to pay for the damn thing. The next day I fetched some water for him. He also wanted my final slices of bread. Yesterday another resident called Mass replaced me as waterboy. “Gabriel,

    my food is on Copacabana” I explained to him today.

    Paolo hasn’t been seen for a week. We think he went back to his work in Miami. One day I will get those photos. He knew many members of both local gangs. It surprised me. This was because I thought he had been working in Miami for 13 years. Maybe he knew them from work.

    Happy holidays to Janet, Joseph, Jen, Karen and everyone in Wanaka.
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  • Dag 52

    Killing Time

    7. januar 2018, Brasilien ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We never actually intended to stay this long in Rio. It just so happened that flights on the 10th to BA (and only on the 10th) were 60% cheaper than any other day. The 'easy' sights having been exhausted, we will have to be more creative in our amusements. Or just hit the local bars again.

    Wandered up to the Forte Ducque today, an old howitzer installation near our hostel. Big guns and nice views.

    Louis and I are looking to travel for a day-trip to some palace north of here. Can't remember the name and he's not here to tell me. It's an hour-long bus ride (which could well turn into 2-3 hours) but looks worth it. They have a big crown there, used formerly by the royal family.

    If I keep writing, it'll really just be filler fluff so I'll sign off. Hopefully more to write on tomorrow (a local gang war or something).

    Pics: (1) Louis looking at something more interesting; (2) Monkeys fighting over a banana; (3) Eyob in an art gallery.
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  • Dag 51

    The Last Leg

    6. januar 2018, Brasilien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We have finalised the end of our trip.

    - Leave Rio 10th Jan for Buenos Aires
    - Leave BA 15th Jan for Bariloche. At this point, Eyob will split from Louis and I and fly home (he starts work earlier). The two of us will spend the last 13 days in Patagonia (southern South America).
    - Take bus across border to Chile's Puerto Montt.
    - Fly down next day to Punta Arenas.
    - Journey up to Fitz Roy Mountain in Argentina.
    - Back to Punta Arenas and onto Santiago to fly home. Will arrive in Wellington 8:30 29th Jan (NZ time).

    Pics: (1) Our route; (2) Morning visitor; (3) A poster; (4) An old car for Sophie.
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  • Dag 49

    O Cristo Redentor

    4. januar 2018, Brasilien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Every great city has an iconic central monument. New York has the Statue of Liberty, Paris has the Eiffel Tower, Wellington has nothing in particular. The Bucket Fountain maybe. Rio, of course, has its statue of Christ redeeming us.

    The statute sits atop a 700m hill, which Eyob and I wanted to climb. Louis decided that, between that and the NZ $20 entrance fee, he'd rather go to the gym. Ok then.

    The climb itself takes about 1.5 hours. The trail is known for its armed robberies (you are trekking through deserted jungle) so we had to sign a liability waiver at the gate. Eyob insisted I take point and walk in front.

    There was the usual gaggle of tourists at the top (they took buses up), all speaking different languages. More like we'd climbed the Tower of Babel than anything. Long queues for tickets but they were only NZ $12, a pleasant surprise. Quite often the information others give us here is somewhat awry.

    Statue was impressive, awe-inspiring etc. etc. but I really enjoyed the climb more. A good challenge in the heat. There is a hill you can climb for free right across ('Dos Imanos' - Two Brothers) which has views just as nice without the crowds.

    ALSO: As commented, we (I, that is) had some stuff stolen on NYE. I was left looking after our stuff as the others went for a midnight swim. The thief's accomplice comes up and taps me on the shoulder asking for a 'fuego' (cigarette light). 'No tengo' I respond (I don't have one). She persists, forcing me to turn around and repeat more forcefully. She gives up after a few goes and disappears into the crowds. I look down and $80 NZ worth of our stuff (mostly cash) is gone. The only consolation to my stupidity is that no phones were lost.

    Pics: (1) The man himself; (2) We were warned; (3) The view of Rio as we climbed; (4) Atop.
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