A Camino to Remember

September - November 2023
We’re walking nearly 500 miles on the Camino Francés to Santiago! Read more
  • 42footprints
  • 3countries
  • 47days
  • 552photos
  • 1videos
  • 12.9kmiles
  • 11.6kmiles
  • Day 32

    Ponferrada

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Today we walked to Ponferrada! It’s a city of 65,000 people. It was raining a lot this morning and there was a steep downhill with some treacherous rocks, so we and our friends, Lisa and Lisa shared a taxi to go around that portion. We got out in Molinaseca. Then we walked about 8 km into the town where we are now. Along the way we met up with some other friends, who were telling us all about the castle in Ponferrada, dedicated to the knights Templar. We got a crash course in what the Knights Templar were all about. It was kind of funny because later we met up with our friends, Lisa and Lisa. And one of the leases was telling us about the Knights Templar, but had an entirely different take on them. Apparently they’re kind of a controversial group. Some people think they were great and unjustly persecuted. However, other people think they were kind of religious zealots, gone rogue. We were googling about them today and found that they’re often portrayed in movies as villains.

    When we got into town, we ate lunch with the Lisa’s. Then we went over to see the castle. It was built as a monument to the Knights Templar. However, it turns out that most of the castle was actually built in the 15th century by a different guy who had nothing to do with the Knights Templar since they were abolished in the 1300s. There were some remnants of the buildings that the Knights Templar had built. But it was pretty apparent that their focus was not on architecture or engineering, because the ruins were pretty much crumbling. The castle was really big. They had a video about castles all over Spain playing there. Imagine, living in a country that has dozens of medieval castles! We learned that castles that we’re all built around the same time really don’t look very similar. Having visited a castle now, we realize that building a castle is a massive undertaking! It was really big, and when we were ready to go, we had a hard time finding our way out!

    This afternoon I discovered that my new shoes were giving me another new blister underneath the blister prevention adhesive bandages. I decided that was it! I will do all the conscientious things to break in those shoes when we get back to the United States, but it is crazy to try to walk the next 125 miles in shoes that make my feet hurt. So we looked online for shoe stores in the city. They have a Decathlon store here. It’s like a big sporting good store. So it was raining and it was a ways to walk there so we figured out how to use the public buses here in Ponferrada. That was a bit of an adventure. We bussed out to the store and picked out some new shoes and also got some gloves to wear on our hands when it’s rainy. When it’s raining, you are holding onto your hiking poles with your hands, and they are exposed to the rain for hours so they get really cold. Sporting goods in Spain cost about 1/3 of what they cost in the US! Let’s all hold a good thought for these new shoes. I really hope they are as comfortable on the trail as they are here in the hotel room.

    David’s back is feeling a lot better. We’ve been shipping his backpack ahead and putting our outerwear and water and snacks in my backpack. It’s been working well! Oh, also, our hiking poles are in my backpack, but we bought cheap folding hiking poles on Amazon, and they are super lightweight and they work great. Today I threw away the last of my decongestant, so I am officially declaring myself healed from Covid. Now we have 10 more walking days and every one of those days has a forecast of rain. So we will be walking through lush, green territory and getting a little bit wet.

    We are having a wonderful time, and we so appreciate all of our friends that are supporting us at home! Since we stop in churches to pray, along the way, one of the things we expressed gratitude for regularly is the support of our friends and family! Thank you so much!

    Our friends, Lisa and Lisa took some nice pictures of us at Cruz de Ferro yesterday. I will put a few of those on today’s post, because I really like them. We have two more days of hiking with them, and we will really miss them when they end up moving a day ahead of us! They are going to arrive in Santiago a day before we get there.
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  • Day 33

    Villafranca del Bierzo

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    Today we walked a long time in and out of the rain. The area we walked into is filled with vineyards and the hills are green and lush. The rooves of the houses are made of slate. The house is themselves are mostly made of stone.

    Since it was raining on and off all day, we had ponchos on and ponchos off. We saw some of the most vibrant and beautiful rainbows! It was very very pretty today. The walk got to be a bit long!

    It turns out that one of our Lisa friends is a wilderness first aid person. She helped me doctor my feet. She put lamps wall between my blistery toes and taped it in place. The other Lisa swears by arnica! We were all walking together today, and we stopped in a pharmacy to buy some vitamin C and zinc, because some of our fellow pilgrims are sick and also some arnica gel. My feet are a little achy as a result of my previous shoes not fitting well.
    With all that preventive stuff and a couple of ibuprofen, the walk was pretty pleasant today. My new shoes appear to be a much better fit for me! I’m hoping the aches from my previous shoes will go away in a few days.

    David was bummed today because he lost one of the new gloves we just bought yesterday. He was down on himself already because he hates losing things due to his memory challenges, and then he introduced himself to a friendly fellow pilgrim who we had just had ha drink and eaten octopus with a few hours earlier. I feel bad for him when his memory doesn’t work right. 😢 He gets embarrassed but what can we do? Pilgrims tend to be very nice an they just laugh off these gaffes. We are Al doing the best we can!

    Finally a word about octopus. I’d prefer not to eat it as I love octopuses and know how smart they are! But at this cafe if you order a drink they automatically give you a plate of spiced octopus. So we tried it. It’s actually tasty but totally sad to eat.

    We have a rest day tomorrow . We are in a little town. We would love to be able to do our laundry but I don’t know if that’s going to happen. We may end up washing multiple things in the sink and trying to hang as much as we can in the bathroom. We have fewer than 180 km to go! This is our last stop with our friends, Lisa and Lisa. It’s kind of sad; we make a lot of friends on the Camino, but everybody moves on pretty fast.
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  • Day 34

    Rest Day in Villafranca del Bierzo

    October 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    This is really a lovely mountain town. It’s cute and very picturesque!

    We are taking our last rest day here before slowly climbing upward toward the mountainous town of O Cebreiro the next day. Sadly this is the last day we’ll spend with Lisa and Lisa who we really like. They are going up to O Cebreiro in just one day. Very hardcore! It was hard to say goodbye to them tonight 😢. And we loved our host Dani (Daniel). We got a great group photo!

    Today we got our laundry washed at our hostel where they offer laundry service. We also got haircuts! Then we went to the grocery store for trail snacks. We are always looking for something compact, durable, and relatively calorie dense but having enough sugar for a jolt if we need it, and we got some sugar crusted peanuts as well as some jelly beans. The supermarket was small by American standards, pretty large by rural Spanish standards, and well-equipped. I posted some pictures of it today.

    We tried to visit both of the town’s churches and both were closed. One of them has a Puerta de Perdon, a door through which medieval pilgrims too injured or too sick to complete the journey to Santiago could walk or be carried to see a priest who would offer them absolution despite their inability to finish their pilgrimage. There is another Puerta de Perdon in León, which is maybe five days behind us. These days neither door opens other than on festive days so modern day pilgrims need to just keep on truckin’!

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    We were looking at a cool building and walked to the door to see what it was. Turns out it was a natural history museum! Yay! The collection was odd. There were lots of paper mache giant costumes worn in festivals and a collection of dusty taxidermied birds, mammals, and a few other critters. The building belongs to an order of priests who were missionaries and they brought back specimens from their missions. There were also specimens from near here. The woman who staffed the place took us to a room full of big paper mache costumes to see a video about local wildlife. The viewing space was weird. But the video showed bears, foxes, small and large deer, lots of birds, and some sort of ibex looking animal. Maybe we’ll see some wildlife on the last part of our Camino!

    We bought new gloves for David, hooray! We ate pizza for lunch with Lisa and Lisa. And now we’re chilling out in our room, trying to allow our sore parts to rest a bit.
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  • Day 35

    Las Herrerias

    October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Today we walked around 15 miles steadily uphill. It was very gradual and felt pretty flat! We walked alongside either a river or creek all day. Today’s walk was almost entirely on the side of the road. We stopped in two small churches. He we got stamps for our pilgrims, credential, and each of the churches, which is kind of unusual, because a lot of times there’s no stamp in churches. Beginning in Sarria in a few days, we have to be sure to get at least two stamps with dates per day to qualify for our Compostela, which is a certificate showing that we have completed the Camino. No rain today but it’s supposed to rain every day except one for the rest if the trip.

    We are in a little hostel right now that has cows right outside the window that have large bells on their collars that go donka donka donka!

    David’s back feels great as long as he doesn’t have to carry a backpack. My blister on my feet from my poorly fitting shoes is slowly disappearing. At this point in the walk, my legs and feet are very sore. I don’t think anything’s wrong, I think I’ve just walked almost 500 miles over the last month!

    We were sad to say goodbye to our friends, Lisa and Lisa, but they texted us that they made it up to the top of the mountain we are climbing tomorrow. In one of the little churches, we stopped into. We saw our friend Sandra from our first three or four days of the Camino! What a surprise to see her after all this time!
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  • Day 36

    O Cebreiro

    October 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 45 °F

    It was a great day! It was supposed to rain but it didn’t rain hard. We got our feet wet at our hats wet. But it was a great day. We got in by noon. We only walked 9 km today but it was up about 2000 feet. We had heard that today’s hike was going to be extremely difficult, but it was oversold. It wasn’t a bad hike at all. I guess living on the West Coast and hiking in the coast ranges, and in the Sierra has taught us some things.

    This town is set up as a Celtic town. It is in the province of Galicia. We can’t tell if our hosts at our rural house are speaking, Portuguese or Galician! But it’s definitely not Spanish.

    It’s rainy and cold outside but at least our radiator in our room is on kind of. It’s a little chilly in our room but at least the radiator is hoping to dry or wet socks, and hats. And we can eat our dinner here in the place we’re staying so we don’t have to wawander around a little town in the rain.
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  • Day 37

    Windy and Rainy Walk to Triacastela

    October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    Today we walked 22 km or so to Triacastela. It was super windy and quite rainy at times. The trail was beautiful, sometimes through farmland and sometimes through the woods. It was pretty cold, especially when our gloves and shoes and hats got wet. I’m not an expert on wind speed but the gusts up on top of the ridge today were hard enough to knock us off balance!

    We stopped for hot chocolate and a sandwich when our fingers were getting super cold. It helped a lot!

    We saw a few cows out grazing but many cows were in their barns in the little villages. We were surprised to see the pilgrim monument we took a picture of. Poor pilgrim looks like he’s been fighting the wind since the Middle Ages.

    We were glad to get out of O Cebreiro. It’s cute but it’s a place that has a “we don’t really like pilgrims” vibe. The innkeepers and residents were not friendly at all. I kept waking up at 4, then 5, then 6 because I was anxious to leave. Triacastela is cute and our Belgian innkeepers are nice!

    Can you believe that tomorrow night we’ll be in Sarría, the starting point for 100 km pilgrimages? We have to be sure to get two dated stamps in our pilgrim’s credentials each day to qualify for a compostela, a certificate of completion, at the end of our Camino. It should not be hard; each day we’ll get a stamp at our lodging place and at any bar (coffee shop) or church we stop at. The distance markers we are seeing are now in the 130 km range! In Galicia, the markers are very precise, measuring the distance to Santiago in thousandths of kilometers, which means each marker tells you the precise number of meters to St. James’ tomb in Santiago.

    Edit: Here in Triacastela we are in such a nice pension (inn). We just went out for a wonderful dinner (for 13€ each we got first course, second course, water, wine for me, and dessert). David’s been fun, joking and having a great time, and I’m having a great time with him. Still, sitting by the fire at the inn before we go up to our room he asked, “What country are we in again?” We choose to be upbeat and joyful in spite of our challenges but sometimes it’s hard to watch his cognitive abilities slip away 😢.
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  • Day 38

    Into Sarria

    October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Today we did a “short and easy” walk into Sarria. Turned out to be a hard walk on our feet but I think that is more about the previous days’ (and weeks’) walks than today’s. Unfortunately I tied my shoes a little tight coming downhill and David finally got a blister on his second toe. Anyway after about 13 miles I told David “I’m sorry but I think I’m beginning to feel grumpy because my feet are really hurting!” After 14.5 miles we reached our lodging for tonight and then got some food which helped. I had a beer with lunch, very normal by Spanish standards, thinking it would help with my sore feet but it just made me sleepy. Hoping for a better feet day tomorrow!

    We saw lots of cows! I included a picture from a travel agency’s window of a sign saying in Galicia you will never walk alone because there are over a million cows here.

    It wasn’t supposed to rain until 3:00 today but it started to rain around noon.

    We are down to 114 km to Santiago. In fact Sarría is where people who only have time to walk 100 km start.
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  • Day 39

    We Arrive (Very Wet!) in Portimarin

    October 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Today we left Sarria and walked to Portomarin. We didn’t take as many pictures today because it was pouring almost all day!

    Sarria is the beginning spot for the last 100 km of the Camino. To earn a compostela, you have to walk at least 100 km or ride at least 200 km. So a lot of people begin their walk here. So we saw a lot of be people and heard a lot of new stories. We saw a child and a dog in a raincoat out there today!

    Here in Galicia there are a tons of cows and many rural houses have these little structures called horreros. They are grain storage buildings that are elevated to keep rodents out, but they looks like little crypts. Or luxury dog houses. Or…well when you’re walking you get to exercise your imagination making up what you think horreros look like they could be used for!

    We saw long horned cows today and a few goats.

    We have been seeing “our purple friends” all over Spain in more mountainous places. They’re these purple bulb flowers like little tulips. We can go for quite a while without seeing them and then they’re back! Like Camino friends who we don’t see for days or even weeks and then there they are in a
    church or at a bar drinking coffee!

    When we got all the way to Portomarin, we crossed a long bridge over the river and then encountered a steep staircase. It wasn’t as bad as it looked but it was not a welcome sight. I read before we came that Portomarin used to be right on the river but when a dam was built downstream creating a reservoir, the residents disassembled the old town rock by rock and reassembled all the buildings up the hill. They must have decided that all the new buildings would be white because even from a distance you can see that Portomarin is an all white town!

    We crossed the official 100 km to go marker today too. Pretty cool! Some Australian Camino friends walked up just then and we took turns taking pictures with the marker!
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  • Day 40

    Into Palas de Rei

    October 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Today we walked about 20 miles. It’s getting a little bit more difficult because we both have blisters now and because our feet are just achy. I don’t think that’s going to remedy itself. I think we’re just gonna have achy feet for the next 70 km or so. This town has two pharmacies and two small markets. The town is not actually that big! Anyway, we visited the pharmacy to get some blister treatment. And we picked up more ibuprofen. I think we’re gonna make it for three more days of walking.

    This morning in Portomarin when we woke up, we could hear the water coming down super hard on our roof. Luckily, by the time we were walking, it didn’t rain nearly as much. We’ve had a few periods of no rain at all today! We didn’t take as many pictures as usual because it’s hard to do it when your phone is in your pocket under a couple layers of rain gear!

    A lot of our walk today was through forested land. We also went by a lot of rolling hills and pastures. By enlarge it was a pleasant walk. At this point, our feet are so sore though, everything hurts! It is hard to imagine being a medieval pilgrim, making this journey in sandals!
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  • Day 41

    Into Arzua

    October 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    We have very few pictures from today. Amy says that for a trip to be a real adventure you have to have some extreme weather event. And so today we had a real adventure! I think it’s some sort of a tropical storm system again. This morning it didn’t rain much but this afternoon it rained so hard that the Camino flooded. We were supposed to walk 30 km which is about 18 1/2 miles. We got about 17 of them done and then just could not continue on anymore. I didn’t even seem safe out there today. So we found an albergue and a nice man called a taxi for us. We took a taxi into Arzua. The room is pretty and it even has a towel warmer in the bathroom. Towel warmers are great because when they are turned on the little bars get very warm, and they are perfect for hanging hand washed and rung out socks, underwear, hats, and other things that are soaking wet because of a very wet day on the Camino. Only two more days after today, and tomorrow, it promises to be not quite so wet. We will post some pictures in a bit. We are off to the pharmacy to get some special Band-Aids for David’s blister to toes. And then we are off to get some good food for dinner! Everything is good, because we arrived at our destination and nobody got hurt.Read more