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  • Day 361

    Home!

    February 12 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Today was the final day of our big trip. We had a slow morning at Erica's, including a short silks session, ham and cheese croissants and the Super Bowl before heading to the airport.

    We luckily arrived at the airport early, because Cass's name was wrong on her ticket (an error on the Air NZ app). Half an hour and $50 later, we had the name on the ticket changed and we headed to the Air NZ Lounge for a late lunch before our flight. We boarded our flight around 5.30pm, and arrived in Auckland at 11pm, where we were back on New Zealand soil for the first time in 361 days!

    P.S. thanks to mum and dad for picking us up at the airport so late.
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  • Day 358

    Melbourne

    February 9 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    A long travel day for us as we begin making our way home - we left our hotel in Hanoi for the airport at 5am for our 9pm flight to Kuala Lumpur. We had a 4hr layover in KLIA2, and then a 7.5hr flight to Melbourne, arriving around 5am on Saturday morning (about 21hrs of travel). Erica was waiting for us with pink hair, big smiles and hugs in the arrivals and it was so nice to see her after so long! Erica drove us to her house, where we caught up until around 8am, when we all started getting sleepy and couldn't keep our eyes open.

    After a much needed 4hr nap, we had coffee and breakfast while we watched a slideshow of photos from Erica and Callum's wedding, which we missed while we were in India. The rest of the day was slow, with a visit to the mall and Costco, a bbq dinner and movie to finish off our day.
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  • Day 357

    Hanoi

    February 8 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Back in Hanoi for one night before we fly back home (via Melbourne). We had our last meal in Vietnam (noodle soup, of course), packed our bags and finally went for a stroll to Beer Street and Hoan Kiem Lake before calling it an early night. We are very glad to be flying out early tomorrow morning ahead of Tet as a lot of shops (probably 70% of shops and cafes) in the Old Quarter were already shut for the Lunar New Year, which would have made it very hard to do anything (let alone eat) as a tourist over the next week. Next stop, Melbourne!Read more

  • Day 356

    Ha Long Bay

    February 7 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    We left Hanoi for Ha Long Bay - the last 'real' stop for us on this trip. We were picked up early by our tour guide and driven 2hrs to the marina, where we transferred to a small boat to reach our cruise ship. We arrived at the cruise ship around 1pm, where we had some time to wander around the luxury cruise ship, meet the other guests and have lunch before we went out for a kayak that afternoon. We had a nice afternoon of kayaking around the limestone mountains (although Mike did most of the paddling, as usual). After the kayak, Mike jumped into the water for a quick dip as the sunset. Unfortunately, we had cloudy weather and the water wasn't very warm so the swim didn't last very long. Our first day of the cruise ended with a delicious buffet dinner, and an early night (as we're very tired these days). As we docked in Lan Ha Bay, there were much fewer boats around (50 boats in Lan Ha Bay, versus 1000 in Ha Long Bay) and absolutely no other boats docked near us, which made for a peaceful night.

    On the second day of our cruise, we went out to Cat Ba Island and hiked up to Dinh Ngu Lam in Cat Ba National Park. After our hike, we visited Hospital Cave (a cave used as a hospital during the Vietnam War) and the local market in Cat Ba town. We headed back to the ship around 3pm, and had a slow afternoon before dinner. After dinner, we decided to give squid fishing a try for a laugh. We were not expecting to catch anything, but about 15min into fishing, Mike caught a 10cm squid! Cass almost caught one too, but pulled her line too abruptly and lost it. After the excitement of catching Mike's squid, we realized our guide had left with the squid. No less than 5min later, we find him in the kitchen where he has already boiled the squid for his dinner! He was just about to chop it up to eat it before we arrived.

    On our last morning, we woke up early for a bike ride to Viet Han village on Cat Ba Island. It was a nice short 6km bike ride along the waters edge and through caves, and we eventually made our way to the town where we saw traditional houses and farms. The rest of the day was spent cruising back to the mainland, where we were transferred back to Hanoi for our last night in Vietnam.
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  • Day 355

    Hanoi

    February 6 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After the Ha Giang Loop, we took a night bus (last one on this trip!) back to Hanoi, arriving in Hanoi around 6am. As it was too early to check into our hotel, we dropped off our bags, freshened up and went for breakfast. We had a delicious beef pho at Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su - a Michelin Bin Gourmand recognized testaurant - right after it opened, which was the only time we saw empty tables at the restaurant during our 4 days in Hanoi.

    The next few days in Hanoi were spent shopping (for ourselves and others), eating delicious street food (bun cha, pho, banh mi, banh ran, mango puddings) and visiting Hoa Lo Prison Museum. We were also lucky enough to catch up with Alvin (who Cass went to university with and will be working with when we return home - a total coincidence that we were in Hanoi at the same time), and Sara and Danael (a Swiss couple we met on the Ha Giang Loop who are 6 months into their year long world trip).
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  • Day 350

    Ha Giang Loop - Day 3

    February 1 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Last day on the bike today! We had originally planned to do the loop over 4 days, but as we wanted more time in Hanoi, we decided to do it in 3 days and combined days 3 and 4 into one long day. After a breakfast of beef pho and sticky rice, we set off from Meo Vac (with our takeaway banh mis for lunch) around 9am as we were anticipating a long day ahead. We'd also been told by multiple people that the roads we were driving today were in the worst condition, so we left early to give ourselves plenty of time to slow down if the conditions were bad.

    The road leaving Meo Vac was terrible - fully under construction with many pot holes, loose gravel, and diggers blocking the road. We drove along this road for a couple of hours, with the road gradually improving with sealed sections, with random gravel and dirt sections. We stopped around 11am for a coffee break overlooking the valleys and winding roads we'd just driven.

    We set off again, energized from our coffee break for many more hairpin corners between big mountains and karst rocks. We stopped again at a small village which had the ruins of a French military outpost. We often stopped at viewpoints for a quick break, but learnt that you wanted to avoid the easy rider groups, or you'd get stuck behind 20 poorly driven scooters, and/or blocked in by their scooters at the viewpoint - we found the large groups and lack of respect for others on the road really frustrating and tried as much as possible to stay ahead of any groups.

    We continued for a few hours, stopping every now again to take some photos, and to have lunch at a local restaurant. When we arrived at the restaurant, there were a few easy rider groups and locals having lunch. Cass took the opportunity to FaceTime her family, leaving Mike to finish the rest of lunch alone. The locals, seeing Mike all lonely, invited him to have some happy water (rice wine). However, as Mike was driving, he politely declined and offered Cass as tribute. She ended up having 4 shots, while communicating with the friendly locals vis Google Translate. It was lovely chatting with them, even if it was in broken English and via Google Translate! We've found Vietnamese people to be very friendly and welcoming - some of the nicest we've met on our whole trip!

    After lunch, we continued to slowly make our way back to Ha Giang. After a failed attempt to off road/mountain bike to a lagoon, we took another break for smoothies around 4pm. We enjoyed the view and called Nate and Vela while we rested before the final stretch. We arrived back in Ha Giang around 5.30pm, during peak traffic, which we thought was the scariest part of the last 3 days. We returned our bike, extremely happy with our time on the road, with the motorbike and that we avoided any "fines" from the police. Overall, the Ha Giang Loop has been one of the best experiences we have had on this trip. The incredible natural landscapes, combined with the small ethnic villages, made it a trip to remember and we would definitely do it all again - 10/10 recommend!
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  • Day 349

    Ha Giang Loop - Day 2

    January 31 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We thought day 1 was great, but day 2 of the Ha Giang Loop was even better! We left Yen Minh with a Swiss couple (who are also travelling for a year) and headed towards Lung Cu, which is the furthest northern point of Vietnam. The drive today was even more spectacular, and we spent the morning driving along hairpin loops flanked by massive limestone mountains and on the side of cliffs. We stopped at Doc Tham Ma to take some photos and admire the scenery, and again at Doc Chin Khoanh for views over the valley we'd just driven through. We met back up with an American couple we'd met at Yen Minh and planned to ride to Lung Cu together, but we shortly all got separated/took different routes. A few hours of driving later, we arrived at Lung Cu Flagpole, where we had to use our legs for the first time in days to walk up the stairs of the monument. The walk was worth it, as we were treated to 365° views of Lung Cu and the surrounding mountains, farms and villages.

    After Lung Cu, we headed towards Meo Vac, where we would be staying for the night. On the way, we made a few stops at the Ma Pi Leng Skywalk to stretch our legs again, and viewpoints along the way for views over Tu San Canyon. We arrived in Meo Vac around 5.30pm, checked into a hotel with heating (hooray!) and went for another early dinner. So far, we are a bit sore and tired from riding for two days, but the experience has been incredible and worth it!
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  • Day 348

    Ha Giang Loop - Day 1

    January 30 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After we did the Bolaven Plateau Motorbike Loop in Laos in 2020, we loved it so much that when we heard about another (and more extreme) motorbike loop in Vietnam, we knew we had to do it. The Ha Giang Loop is a 350-400km loop that starts and ends in Ha Giang in Northern Vietnam. A large section of it (185km) runs along Happiness Road, which is a road that was constructed by 1,000+ young volunteers from the 16 ethnic groups in Northern Vietnam, to connect the remote northern districts with Ha Giang (and therefore the rest of the country).

    We rugged up and picked up our bike, setting off from Ha Giang around 9.30am. The police in Ha Giang are notorious for "fining" tourists extortionate amounts of money (e.g. 2 million dong, or NZ$133 of bribe money) for having no motorbike drivers license or international driver permit, so we left the rental company with two easy riders. They dropped us past the first permanent police check point just outside the city to avoid being fined within the first 30min of the loop, and then we were off! The drive was spectacular from the start - as soon as we left Ha Giang city, we were driving through windy roads mountain passes and up in the clouds.

    About an hour in, we were pulled over at another police checkpoint. We were prepared to pay the "fine" (as Mike has a motorbike license and an IDP, but our IDP version isn't recognized in Vietnam), but the police seemed happy with us and let us go. We were very glad and didn't see anymore police that day.

    We spent the next 5 hours driving through some of the most spectacular mountain passes and picturesque villages we've ever seen. The weather, although still freezing cold, held out for us all day, encountering only some fog at the top of some of the passes, and at the famous Heavens Gate viewpoint, which meant we didn't get to see it at all (fairly common in winter).

    We arrived in Yen Minh around 2.30pm and checked into our lovely little guesthouse (Tom Homestay), where we were given hot water bottles to keep us warm and played pool until our family dinner. A great first day on the loop!
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  • Day 347

    Hanoi to Ha Giang

    January 29 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After one of the best sleeps we've had in a while (the result of little sleep from the terrible night bus to Hanoi and the fact that our hotel room had no windows), we had an early wake up for our 6.30am minibus to Ha Giang. We arrived in Ha Giang around 1pm, checked into our hostel and grabbed some lunch (really great pizza and fries - we were needing the comfort food after all the cold weather and early mornings we've had). After lunch, our mission was to find a decent motorbike for the Ha Giang loop, and to talk to other travellers to get some tips for the loop. After hours of walking between 5+ rental shops, we eventually landed on hiring a 125cc manual motorbike, with it being a nice balance between having a bit more power, being more comfortable for two riders and not being too expensive. By the time we sorted the bike, it was nearly dinnertime so we went out for an easy dinner of beef pho before calling it a nightRead more

  • Day 346

    Night bus from Phong Nha to Hanoi*

    January 28 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Last night we took our first night bus in Vietnam from Phong Nha to Hanoi. In true Vietnamese fashion, the bus was an hour late and we were left standing in the cold at 10pm waiting for our bus to arrive. When we eventually got on the bus, we discovered that although we paid a lot more for a VIP bus (as opposed to a normal sleeper bus), it was basically just a sleeper bus with curtains and small TV screens. The seats were actually shorter and less comfortable than the cheaper sleeper bus, which, combined with the extremely rude bus driver, made for an uncomfortable and mostly sleepless 8hr journey to Hanoi. Despite the bus arriving in Phong Nha an hour late, we made up some time on the road (we had the curtains closed so we couldn't see how crazily the bus was being driven - a trick we learnt in South America) and arrived in Hanoi only half an hour late around 7am. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we went for some delicious beef pho from a stall across the street and a hot egg coffee from Cafe Giang to warm us up. We have only a day in Hanoi before we jump on another bus early tomorrow to head north to Ha Giang.Read more

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