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    Home!

    25 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 32 °F

    We are back home after 4,198km (2,609 miles), which feels very odd after such a long phase of moving around. At long last (drum roll) here are the BESTS of the trip:

    1. Best town: Pontevedra. Classy old town with great food and a memorable hotel on a charming plaza.

    2. Best restaurant. Loaira Xantar in Pontevedra. Absolutely amazing rationes under an umbrella on one of the many plazas reinforced Pontevedra's sophistication. Rumor was they had a Michelin star, if not they deserved one.

    3. Best day. It's unanimous, a beautiful hike in the Picos de Europa was the winner. In general, we have concluded from this trip, as others before, that nothing beats immersion in natural beauty. And the circuit to the base of the Picos from Mogrovejo, topped off by a fine lunch in this ancient hill town, was perfection. Second place goes to a great picnic amidst the Iron Age ruins outside Guimarães in Portugal.

    4. Best Museum. Casa Lis in Salamanca. A wonderful and eclectic collection of art noveau and art deco artworks.

    5. Best hotel. The Palacio de San Estaban in Salamanca. Who would have thought an old convent could be so charming? Thanks to Robert for the tip!

    6. Best surprise. The city of A Coruña. The extraordinary natural position of the city, which is like a flower in the ocean, makes it a wonderful walk. And not a bad place to watch Barca beat the Brits. We are going back!

    All things considered, we are especially pleased to finally know and understand so much more of the Iberian Peninsula. Which is, of course, a large piece of Nivaria.
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  • Zamora to Alcantara

    24 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Today we spent our last full day in Alcantara. The town is famous for its first century Roman bridge, reportedly one of the greatest in the Roman Empire. Since we drove across it, we can confirm that it was made to last! If you zoom in on the marble over the doorway of the chapel you can see Trajan Caesar Aug carved into it as if it were yesterday. Standing on the other side of the river one can make out the outlines of a once impressive stone city with all of its terraces, fields, walls, and fortifications, which has now shrunk to a small agricultural center that is down on its luck and little visited.

    We are staying in a restored convent where we also had lunch. We were lucky to run into an intelligent English-speaking guide who led us through a palace-church used by one of the famous medieval military orders. The spiral is the staircase in its tower. Learned a lot about the Crusades against the Moors. Always nice to get off the tourist trail and receive personal tours like this! Stay tuned for our wrap-up tomorrow, including the all-important trip highs and lows...
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  • Heading home- Santander to Zamora

    23 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Our first stop-over on our 3-day journey home is Zamora. Lunch was an epic food-fail as today is a local holiday and restaurants that were open had been booked and filled by the time we rolled in at 3pm.

    I jinxed us by commenting on our weather luck yesterday. Fifteen minutes after we left our room to explore the old town, a dramatic storm approached and the skies opened! It is much colder here than the northern coast so it wasn’t a surprise to see hail!
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  • Santander Day 2

    23 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We have been lucky with the weather here in Santander where average rainfall in April is ~5 inches. Today involved ten miles of walking along the beautiful paths that surround this coastal city and viewing architecture.

    The Magdalena peninsula was particularly stunning - we stumbled onto a seal show (but failed to find the penguins!) The sunset boat tour out to the headlands was the highlight of the day!
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  • What is art? Altamira Museum & Santander

    21 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Woke early to drive to the cave of Altamira (museum and reproduction cave). Learned more about prehistoric cave art which we both find particularly fascinating, especially after visiting South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology (Ötzi - the Iceman) in Bolzano back in 2017. This was our ‘high’ for the day.

    The LP writer in the current guide to Spain failed us with a sugar-coated description of what is actually a tourist trap in the form of the historic village of Santillana del Mar, Cantabria. (Sturbridge Village anyone?) All of Cantabria was there today- we bolted after 15 minutes and headed to Santander for Easter lunch at the highly recommended Cañadío - delicious!

    We were deeply disappointed by Cento Botín and what the museum curators currently deem as ‘art’. We have vowed that this is our LAST dose of *bad* modern art!
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  • Picos de Europa - Potes

    19 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Today we wandered around Oviedo for the last time before hitting the road for the famous Picos de Europa. These mountains are often compared to the Alps and in places it seems like a fair comparison. At first we tried to reach Covadonga and two famous lakes above it only to be stymied by thousands of people attending some sort of religious festival there. After passing the fourth chock-full parking lot ferrying people by the bus-load up the mountain we opted to head for our hotel. That turned out to be a great decision as we embarked upon a beautiful 90min drive through the heart of the Picos.

    By exploiting an error on booking.com we had managed to get a reservation near Potes, a prime spot, and our room was upgraded to a suite upon arrival as they were out of standard rooms :). As I write this we are off to dinner having walked a bit of Potes and having a drink by the river. The sun is out and will be all day tomorrow for a great hike. TBD!
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  • Oviedo

    18 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌫 59 °F

    Today we wandered the historic district and soaked up the amazing architecture - the richest we’ve experienced on this trip so far! The highlight of our “wander” was the Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias.

    This spotlessly clean, green city boasts statues on every corner and endless walking streets featuring cider-pouring baristas. Apparently, there's an art to it —according to tradition, your body must be perfectly straight but not tense, your pouring arm must be raised as high as possible, and your eyes must never leave the glass! We’ve also heard the cider has special medicinal properties...
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  • Galician Coastline - A Coruña

    16 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    We got an early start (9:30am) and headed up the coast - A Coruña was our final destination (to a room with a view and a nearby sports bar to cheer Barca in the quarter finals!) This is one of the most beautiful drives in Spain. It felt a lot like the rugged coast of Maine!

    Amazing stop for lunch in the seaside town of Muros (I took one bite of the pulpo in Paul’s salad - my third and final attempt ... I’m NOT convinced!)

    Lots of fun watching Barca whomp Man United in the Sports Cafe and walking around the old town at night! Plaza Maria Pita definitely rivals Playa Mayor in Salamanca.
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  • Ourense to Pontevedra

    14 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌫 64 °F

    Let me begin with last night’s disaster. We decided to drive to one of the famous thermal baths of Ourense, which are located on the river about 5km out of town. At least this is what the map indicated. In reality they are in some sort of Twilight Zone, protected by innumerable signs that point you in the wrong direction. After circling around and around, we ended up on a highway that went on for 15km without an exit. When we finally penetrated to the heart of this Bermuda Triangle, we discovered no parking within a kilometer of the baths- this due to the fact that the entire town was filling them to the brim on the beginning of the Semana Santa Holiday. Instead of paddling amidst 10,000 Galicians, we thus decided to slink back to the Barceló after a coke, only to get lost on the way home. Apparently the GPS locator for the hotel had been incorrectly set, by a nameless party, for the previous day’s outing to eastern Galicia. Two hours after leaving we arrived back nearly insensible, which is why we were laughing so hard.

    This morning we set off on a circuit along the river that took in two of the city’s remarkable bridges. The Millennium Bridge, which we renamed the Loopy Bridge, is really quite fantastic, particularly as you can walk the loop in a circle that takes you above and below the road, and back again. We also loved the massive old stone Roman Bridge, tall enough to let a large sailboat pass beneath.

    After that and the daily tostada, we finally left Ourense, but not before being rerouted around the Semana Santa procession route... and getting lost. I am not sure what ungodly forces were at work in that place! But eventually we made it here to Pontevedra, which sits on a river near the Atlantic coast, and is known, like all of Galicia, for its seafood. It has a great Old Town, where we had a truly extraordinary lunch. Nearby we also found a corner room in a hotel overlooking a charming square. Unfortunately it has been raining, which is why I have had so much time to write this! But the plans for the evening include a combination of Spanish football at the downstairs bar and fried octopus. Although Sarah is not yet convinced about the octopus. We have no idea what we are doing tomorrow, but that is best considered over the morning’s tostada.
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  • Ourense and Ruta Ribera Sacra

    13 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We had high hopes for the touted artesanal craft street in the walking district of this inland Galician town but were disappointed. Graffiti and a plethora of tattoo parlors hint at the lasting repercussions of the financial crisis. To save the day we headed back to nature and spirituality with a tour of monasteries on the Ruta Ribera Sacra which follows the fjord-like Rio Miño.

    A great ‘typico’ lunch and a walk to two miradors were among the highlights of today’s outing. We used the Barceló Ourense as a base and it didn’t disappoint!
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  • Northern Portugal Adventures

    12 kwietnia 2019, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    During an unexpected private tour of the archaeological museum (in a former convent) in the lovely village of Guimarães, the archivist recommended we visit the ruins at Citãnia de Briteros. Since the weather was so beautiful, we stopped and picked up a picnic lunch on the way.

    Although primarily known as the remains of an Iron Age proto-urban hill fort (or oppidum), the excavations at the site have revealed evidence of sequential settlement, extending from the Bronze to Middle Ages.

    After a great visit to this special spot we journeyed on to Ourense, Spain.
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  • Porto Day 2

    11 kwietnia 2019, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    At times Porto feels like an awkward adolescent unsure of its place in the world. You get a strong sense of striving to measure up or even outshine it’s more famous southern sister. Still gangly and unpolished, in 10 years, this city will be a gem.

    Fueled by the nearby port wine empire in the Douro Valley, this new tourist destination was quirky but fun. And yes, we bought a 2014 Late Bottled Vintage Port after the Taylor’s tour.
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  • Porto Day 1

    10 kwietnia 2019, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    We bailed out of a 3-hour guided tour to explore the city on our own. The camera museum was somewhat disappointing - maybe the former prison venue had something to do with this?

    Next we visited the city art museum which housed a decent collection in a tired building. We also enjoyed the Museo Romántica, a house museum displaying period art & furnishings, along with gardens offering scenic river views. A wander through the botanical gardens which are perched on the edge of the river was a highlight.

    Our 24-hour food fail continued in a promising Italian restaurant that lost our dinner order. Travel is never boring!
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  • Douro Valley

    8 kwietnia 2019, Portugalia ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Left Salamanca and headed into the wonderful Douro Valley. Our first stop, for a picnic lunch, was Ciudad Rodrigo (we perched on the walls of a former castle-now Parador).

    Next we meandered through terraced grape fields which are just starting to bloom. We stopped in Mesão Frio for the night with amazing views from a casa rural. Czytaj więcej

  • Salamanca Day 2

    7 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Started the day by sampling a torrija! (An extreme piece of French toast!) An audio app took us on a walking tour of the city sights which included beautiful sandstone buildings. Most of Salamanca’s buildings date from the golden era of the Renaissance. Casa de Los Conches was one of the more interesting. The exterior is studded with carved stone clam shells reminiscent of those worn by pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. A 2 hour audio tour of the new and old cathedral rounded out the day.

    A lost-in-translation moment ended with more bebidas than necessary for lunch at The Mandala, a LP recommended local bistro near the university.

    Ended the day in Cafe Novelty playing cribbage. This is the oldest cafe in Salamanca (1905). Paul befriended Gonzolo.

    The video shows how magical the Plaza Mayor is at night!
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  • Salamanca Day 1

    6 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌬 39 °F

    Snow capped hills and intermittent hail/rain showers greeted us in this popular UNESCO World Heritage city. Our first stop after checking in at the Palacio de San Estaban (still an active convent) was Casa Lis (Museo de Art Déco y Art Nouveau). Figurines by Demetre Chiparus were our favorite pieces!

    The weather behaved for a few photos at Plaza Mayor and outside the cathedral.

    The city is even more magical at night!
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  • Plasencia

    5 kwietnia 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    Explored the spring countryside just East of Plasencia. Highlights included the Monasterio de San Jerónimo de Yuste which Carlos V renovated in 1556. He retired to the Monastery of Yuste, after having abdicated the Spanish crown to his son Philip II of Spain. He intended to devote the rest of his life (2 years- he died at age 58 of malaria) to prayer. Other highs included unique hillside villages with wooden balconies and spring blooms (though we missed the peak cherry blossoms.

    Two final highlights just before departing included a tour of a Semana Santa “storage/prep” church and the amazing Plasencia Parador!
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  • Rozpocznij wyprawę
    4 kwietnia 2019