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Global Wanderings 2017

April - September 2017
A 128-day adventure by Barrable Travels Read more
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  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    Day 13

    Kibitsu Jinja & the Legend of Momotaro

    May 9, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I spent the morning visiting the magnificent Kibitsu Shrine about 30 minutes by train from Okayama. There was hardly a soul there, which was great. This is clearly off the tourist track and all the better for it. In fact I have been lucky on this trip not to have to put up with the crowds of western tourists and the hoardes of Chinese tourists in large tour buses. Probably not luck actually as having done the main tourist spots on my last visit in October 2016 I have chosen some more out of the way but equally stunning places to visit.

    Kibitsu Jinja is linked with the folktale of Momotaro or 'Peach Pit Boy who, born from a Peach, conquered the local demons. Because the legend is similar to a legend about Kibitsu-hiko-no-mikoto who was enshrined at Kibitsu Jinja for conquering the demon Ura - who is said to still lay entombed beneath the shrine - the two legends have become linked.

    The architecture of the shrine is called 'hioku-irimoya-zukiri' and is a much more traditional Japanese architecture than seen in some of the more Chinese influenced shrines and temples.

    The shrine itself is massive and the covered corridor that connects different buildings and sub shrines is 400 metres long. Much larger than even the Izumo Taisha shrine in Shimane that I will visit next on my trip around Western Japan.

    After taking in the sights of Kibitsu Jinja I returned to Okayama to get my train; the Limited Express Yakumo 13 to Matsue. The train wound its way up through forested mountains, narrow valleys and rock strewn rivers; bamboo and wild wisteria everywhere. Before breaking out onto the north western plains of Shimane. Matsue is sitated between two lakes - lake Shinja and lake Nakaumi - and close to the Sea of Japan.

    The weather here is overcast and grey but I guess I cant be lucky every day. I have two days and three nights here so hopefully at least one good sunset. :-)    Read more

  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    Day 13

    Izumo taisha and Matsue in Shimane

    May 9, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Light rain this monring as I head off to Izumo taisha, reputedly the oldest Shinto Shrine and the birthplace of Japan. It is said that all the kami, or gods, visit here together one month in every year, known as the 'month of the gods'. In the rest of Japan that month is known as the 'month without gods'.

    It is a spectacular shrine in a spectacular setting with superb buildings in the 'hioku-irimoya-zukiri' style which I really find appealing for its simplicity, grace and sense of mystery and magic. This place is also known as the shrine of marriage and relationships and is dedicated to Okuninushi no Mikoto the god of marriage. When worshipping here it is common to clap four times, rather than twice, two for you and two for the other; the object of your heart.

    The light rain actually adds a bit of atmosphere and grey skies are always good to bring out the colours in a photograph, especially the greens, of which there are multiple shades in this forested, mountainous place. The central compound is unfortunatly inaccessible to us mere mortals but what can be seen is spectacular and the main compound with its arched roofs and flying cross pieces is ringed by smaller shrines and other things like lots of statues of bunny rabbits in various poses. How cute or 'kawai' as they would say here.

    In the afternoon its back to rainy Matsue and I figure I'll visit the Shimane Art Museum and head of in the pouring rain with my trusty travel umbrella... only to find on arrival that the Museum is closed on a Tuesday...duh! Oh well I'll save it for tomorrow, I think, and promptly head off to the nearest giant shopping mall; sprawling multi floored temples to mass consumption which every city has many of.

    Tomorrow is another day and I hope the weather clears as I want to visit Matsue Castle and take a boat tour around the city on its many canals and rivers. Matsue is known as the Venice of Japan. Its also known for its amazing sunsets over lake Shinji so it would be pretty ironic if I come all this way and don't even see the sun let alone a good sunset.

    Fingers crossed!    Read more

  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    Day 14

    Samurai, Kami, Canals and a Castle

    May 10, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Up early today, the forecast is good! Breakfast at the hotel then off for a brisk walk up by the lakefront and across lots of bridges to the Matsue Castle grounds. There are only 12 Castles remaining in Japan, most having been destroyed during the Meiji Restoration. I have visited 6 so far and will visit one or two more on this trip. Today it was the turn of Matsue Castle. Not the largest or most imposing - Himeji takes that accolade - but with a beauty and authenticity that immediatly make it one of my favorites. Inside is a veritable history lesson with many suits of samurai armour, minature models of Matsue in different eras and lots of original artefacts as you climb up the levels to the top floor. The top floor is open on all sides for some stunning views out over Matsue and environs. Really helps appriciate the city and its many canals.

    The grounds also contain two Shrines, the most famous of which is the Jozen Inari Shrine filled with thousands of fox statues of every shape and size and some clearly very ancient. Its amazing to think that these places have been here for many hundreds of years, especially coming from N.Z. where almost nothing is more than 150 years old.

    I take a boat ride around the canals in a boat whose roof lowers so it can get under low bridges. Lowers so much I have to lie almost flat on the floor of the boat. Everything in Japan is made for small flexible people not large inflexible ones like me. The bus seats are so small I have to stand even when the bus is empty :-)

    I wander aimlessly around the city streets exploring and come across many Temples. In fuedal times they served a military purpose too, being situated in strategic spots that were easily defensible.... and many 'monks' were actually troops in disguise. There is a whole area of them the 'teramachi' among a network of canals that served to defend the city and make it difficult for attackers to get anywhere near the Castle.

    After lunch I head off to visit two 'Art Museums' but they deserve a post all of thier own :-)    Read more

  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    Day 15

    Adachi Museum of Art

    May 11, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I keep thinking I have discovered japan's most beautiful gardens, Katsura being the most recent, only to be surprised by even more beautiful locations. The Japanese Gardens that now have to be exceeded are those at the Adachi Museum of Art near Yasugi in Shimane. I found them just stunning and set within the context of an Art gallery made them even more beautiful somehow. The art on display was pretty spectacular in and of itself but the gardens all around and the way they are incorporated into the gallery display spaces and the overall Museum is amazing.

    But be a judge for yourself from my photos below. They don't really do them justice but I think you will see the beauty. I would love to return here in all 4 seasons to see how the gardens change.    Read more

  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    Day 15

    Osaka Castle

    May 11, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Travelled from Matsue to Osaka today - 3.5hrs by local train, Shinkansen, another local train and the subway. Osaka is Japans second largest city and a great rival of Tokyo but doesn't have much in the way of attractions. Apart from its reputation as a gastronomic wonderland there are the usual Temples and a Castle. So off I went to Osaka Castle and braved the hoardes of tourists. I really dont like crowds of tourists, they spoil the atmosphere of a place, not that Osaka castle has much in the way of atmosphere. its a gaudy late 90's rebuild of what was an important site in the 16th Century unification of Japan. Built in 1995 this 'new' castle is a concrete reproduction complete with elevators, even one on the outside, duh!!! Needless to say I didn't go inside just took a few photos and explored some of the nicer relatively tourist free areas of the grounds and Shrines. After the atmosphere and wonder of Matsue Castle built in 1611 and still largely extant, Osaka castle was a bit of a dissapointment. I am so glad that most of my trip is going to be off the tourist track and taking in some lesser known wonders of Japan.

    Off out tonight to explore this astronomic wonderland; good job I have done tons of walking over the last few days :-)    Read more

  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    Day 16

    The Hanging Gardens of Nara

    May 12, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Went to the ancient capital of Nara today and sampled some of its wonders. I stayed well clear of the massive crowds at the main attractions like the giant Buddha at Toddoji and went off to the quieter Kasuga Taisha across the park. On the way I discovered the Botanic Gardens and a stunningly beautiful display of hanging Wisteria of all colours in various stages of blooming. Could fill several posts with all the photos I took here. Then to the shrine itself with its massive sacred tree in the central plaza and it's multiple shrines. Then a quieter shrine deeper into the woods followed by a long walk through the woods with only deer and odd Crow for company. I came out near another Temple/Shrine. It can get very confusing here as many are both Buddhist and Shinto with the two religions fully syncretised. In one of them I was the only visitor and yet it had a great hall with a massive Buddha surrounded by demons... just awe inspiring. As I was the only one there I got away with ignoring the no photography signs :-)

    A short walk away I stumbled upon a Photography Museum with a couple of wonderful exhibitions. Stopped and had a break at the cafe and then continued my wandering through old houses, temples and shrines back to the JR Station. All in all about 8 hours and over 10km... I was exhausted when I got back to the hotel but managed to pull myself together and go get a meal, Italian this time and an opportunity to use a knife and fork again :-)    Read more

  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    1
    Day 18

    An Afternoon at Ritsurin-koen

    May 14, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    The Ritsurin Gardens at Takamatsu have shot back to number one on my list of best japanese gardens. I first came here last autumn and fell in love with the place and athough some other gardens on this trip have been fantastic and briefly taken the top spot (Adechi comes to mind), Ritsurin has returned to number one for me. Spread over a wide area at the foot of Mt. Shiun the gardens contain three lakes and many bridges, islands and groves of remarkable trees. Immaculate in its presentation and magical in atmosphere I could easily spend a whole day here although this time its just 4 hours in the afternoon :-)

    Takamatsu is a lovely small city on the north east coast of Shikoku, the smallest and least visited of Japans four main islands. Off the beaten track I did not see a single westerner in my three days here and there were very few tourists at most places I visited, mainly Japanese.

    The weather has been perfet today, rained while I was travelling from Osaka by Shinkansen and then the Marine Liner from Okayama; then the sun came out in the afternoon and made the Ritsurin gardens vibrant, green and glowing.

    last time in takamatsu I visited Kotahira and the Konpira shrine with its 1400 steps up the mountainside. This time I will visit some lesser known places in Kagawa, far off the beaten track :-)    Read more

  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    Day 19

    Yurika-ji, Shido-ji & Shirayama Jinja

    May 15, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A day of travelling on the Kotoden electric railway system throughout Kagawa prefecture; its great value at 1200 Yen (about NZ$15) for a day pass, with three lines that go east, south and west of Takamatsu.

    First stop was Yakuri and the Yakuri-ji Temple high up on Mt Goken. A pleasent 20 min hike from the Yakuri station takes you to the cute little cable car that traverses up the steep mountainside in little blue and red cars. Apparently they were modelled after the first Bullet Trains as they were buiilt the same year... but the resemblance escapes me :-)

    Yakuri-ji is a wonderful temple nd yet again I am pretty much the only tourist with most visitors being pilgrims in thier distinctive white clothes, walking sticks and conical bamboo hats. Mt Goken towers above the buildings of the Temple complex and the views out across Sanuki are tremendous.

    Further west along the coast I travel to Shido a small fishing port with a another Temple... and yes you guessed it, it's called Shido-ji. A lovely zen rock garden and tea house are its main attractions and there is a large pagoda and there are hundreds of buddhas everywhere.

    Next I travelled back to takamatsu and visited Takamatsu Castle before heading off to Shirayama where I had heard there was a really nice Shrine at the foot of Shirayama Mountain which is known locally as Little Fuji because of its shape. There are walking tracks right up and around the mountain and it is out in a relatively rural area so I enjoy some hiking up the trails. I only saw a couple of other people here and they were locals.

    People are so friendly here in Japan and always keen to try out thier English on a foriegner. Even if they don't speak English much gesticulating, laughter and my few words of Japanese are enough to get by.

    I really like this part of Japan... a hidden gem.    Read more

  • Barrable TravelsGlobal Wanderings 2017
    Day 19

    Hiroshima

    May 15, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Forever engraved in peoples memories as the victim of the first Atomic Bomb to be dropped on a city; Hiroshima is once again a thriving, beautiful and interesting place. Many of its pre atomic attractions have been restored to thier former glory such as Hiroshima Castle and the Shukkeien Gardens which I visited on this trip. When I came here back in October 2016 I visited the Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb site and memorials and it is a very moving experience to ring the Peace Bell in the centre of the park and to experience the memorial Exhibition hall with its horrors and reminders of what man is capable of doing to man.

    This visit I focused more on the beautiful places in the city and spent time at thefamous Shukkeien Gardens. Shukkeien translates as Shrunken Scenery and there are little landscape scenes everywhere you look and also the hallmarks of Japanese Gardens everywhere, the lakes and bridges and gnarly trees. The lakes are teaming with Carp which is the cities mascot - they also have a famous Baseball team called the Hiroshima Carp - and feeding them results in a frenzy of multi-coloured fish bodies.

    Hioshima Castle, sometimes called Carp Castle or Rijo, was destroyed by the atomic bombing on August 6, 1945 but was rebuilt in 1958, a replica of the original. Unlike Osaka castle this one retains some atmosphere and authenticity and is set in beautiful grounds which also contain a Shrine and other buidings. Its been another glorious sunny day with temperatures in the high 20's and today there is also a cooling breeze which is nice.

    I arrived here by Marine Liner and Shinkansen from Takamatsu; the Marine Liner is a particularly cool jouney as it traveserses the Seto Ohashi bridge across the Seto inland Sea.

    Tomorrow I will head out into uncharted territory to the west of here and inland; a place I discovered while browsing Japan destinations and sites of interest online...    Read more

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