Belize
Cayo District

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    • Day 120

      A cloudy day

      January 5, 2020 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Last night, some people told us that cold weather was coming and it will be chilly in the tent. For us, this actually meant that the tent did not turn into a greenhouse and we could sleep well, and today, it was great cycling weather with 25°C.
      As we didn't know yet, where to sleep the night, we looked for free WiFi in the next village. In Belize, you usually get a connection near some schools and usually the central square. In Burrell Boom, however, the central square was a basketball court where the locals were playing their Sunday morning game. We got some signal close to a bus stop yet (see photo).
      Sunday is also a big day for group cycling. And as there is basically only one paved road in Belice, we met many cyclists, sometimes several times as they were going back and forth on the road. So I guess we now know every road cyclist in Belice.
      Now that we are further South in the country, most of the locals seem of a Carribean background with dark skins and the related temper. Even kids greet is with "Hello my friend, how'r u doin'" and we get involved in conversations every time we stop.
      Once we got to Belmopan, the capital of Belice, we decided to stop at Guanacaste National Park to go for a short walk in the jungle and swim in the Belice River - really nice!
      Afterwards, we had to find a place to sleep which took us at least 3 loops around the city. Hotels were either fully booked (or just closed because it's Sunday - you couldn't tell from the signs) or ridiculously expensive (as it's a government town...), so we ended up in a motel. Generally, it's pretty dead here, as houses are very spread out and there's no town square or real city centre at all. Good we are only staying for the night.
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    • Day 122

      10001

      January 7, 2020 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      The goal of today was to get to Benque, the last town before the border to Guatemala. As it's too far to cycle, we decided to hitch-bike. So we cycled about 22km to the turnoff to Dangriga and tried to hitch a ride. It took about an hour until John Taylor stopped and offered to give us a lift to Belmopan. As he was on a company drive, he wasn't theoretically allowed to take us, but he did it anyways - lucky us. So we put the bikes on the pickup truck and went in the back with the bikes as well. That's traveling in Belice ;) Within less than an hour, we were back in the city - a section that took us a whole day on the bikes. Taylor dropped us of along the highway and we cycled to Spanish Lookout, a farmers community with quite some people of German background. The Welcome sign was in German even. The landscape reminded us of Germany as well: huge farms, agriculture, cows, some hills, no more jungle.
      To continue West, we crossed the Belize River by a manually driven ferry. The next town we passed was San Ignacio. Lucky us: it was Tuesday and there was a farmers' market. So we felt like being in heaven: lots of fresh and cheap fruit and vegetables, something that was hard and expensive to get in Belize before. And opposite of the market: a French bakery. So we spent the rest of our Belicean currency on food.
      Also, Jamie came over to talk to us. He works as a beer promoter for the local brand Belikin and gave us 2 beers for free - sweet! As it was not allowed to drink alcohol in the park, we decided to just stop along the road - which we did. Back on the bikes, I realized that we had our beer right at our 10.000th kilometer - what a coincidence! We stopped to take a photo, but as we rolled downhill, unfortunately a little late, so the computer had just changed to 10.001...
      In Benque, Raul, our host for the night, picked us up at the entrance of the village. We could stay at his sister's house and had a really great time with them: dinner and lots of discussions about bike touring and Belicean and German traditions.
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    • Day 91

      Hallo Belize - ATM Caves

      January 24, 2020 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Gestern ging es über die Grenze nach Belize. Obwohl San Ignacio nur 15km von der Grenze Guatemalas entfernt ist, fühlt es sich schon wie eine ganz andere Welt an. Karibischer, sauberer, amerikanischer... Wir hören nur noch wenig Spanisch hier. Stattdessen Englisch und Kreolisch. Das "Peace" des Rastaman im Laden ließ daher auch nicht lange auf sich warten ;-)

      Heute wartete auch direkt ein Highlight auf uns. Wir besuchten die ATM Caves. Mit Helm und Stirnlampen schwammen, wateten und kletterten wir durch die Höhle, die einst den Maya für Opferrituale diente und nur von Schamanen aufgesucht werden durfte. Die Gesteinsformationen, Stalakmiten und Stalaktiten, aber vor allem die Überreste der Opferrituale (Keramiktöpfe, Blutplatten und Skelette) waren beeindruckend. Fotos dürfen dort keine mehr gemacht werden, nachdem einige der Artefakte durch unvorsichtige Touristen beschädigt wurden. Aber das ist auch gut so. Die Erfahrung ist auf jeden Fall in unseren Köpfen abgespeichert.
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    • Day 92

      Caracol Ruinen

      January 25, 2020 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Caracol, einMaya Tempel / Stadt, die damals mehr Bewohner als das heutige Belize City hatte, hatten wir heute fast für uns ganz alleine ( ok, die 15 Touristen und Horden von Brüllaffen nicht mitgezählt) Auf dem Rückweg haben wir noch einem kleinen Abstecher am Rio Frio Cave und Rio on Pools gemacht...Read more

    • Day 4

      San Ignacio - Day 2

      March 14, 2020 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      It was the first day that we didn't need to get up at any specific time so we lazily lounged around our cabana until about 10:30am. And then hopped in the jeep and drove to Xunantunich, another ancient mayan site.

      To get there, we had to take the world's shortest ferry ride (a statistic i just made up), which holds just 4 cars and crosses a small river and is propelled by a hand crank. And free.

      The actual site isn't as expansive as other locations i have visited, but the main temple was massive. Alexa and i made our way to the top, and on the way up, we noticed some people were focused on the nearby jungle trees. The back of the temple was against a hill so we wandered off to take some pictures of the spider monkeys and some large iguanas. And then continued to the top. It was so high, people at the bottom looked like ants. Mom was pretty knackered from the walk uphill to the site and relaxed in the shade as we climbed up and down the temple.

      When we got back to San ignacio, we stopped at a large market and had some tacos for lunch. As we were eating, we saw Alan and Sharron from Indiana who we met at Lamanai a few days ago.

      Then went back to our hotel and relaxed in the pool. We decided going to Tikal, Guatemala was no longer viable because the border was likely to close soon and we didn't want to get stuck on the Guatemala side. Which was disappointing as it was the whole reason this trip was booked. So i spent most of the afternoon trying to figure out a new plan and where to stay.

      For supper, we drove into town to a really cool restaurant that a few people recommended and ran into Alan and Sharron again. Funny how that happens sometimes.
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    • Day 5

      Jaguar Creek

      March 15, 2020 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      While people back home are making sacrifices like restricting their movement, no large gatherings and only purchasing one package of toilet paper at a time, we too were making sacrifices like not going to Guatemala and instead going to the Belize zoo and staying in a jungle lodge. Painful, i know :)

      I had heard the belize zoo was small but really well done. They were mostly right. Extremely well done and not small at all. It was a zoo for only animals found in belize and was basically set up in the jungle. For example, monkeys weren't in enclosures but in a forest area. And all the animals are rescues from the wild with the goal of setting them back into the wild once they are better and able. Animals include spider monkeys, howler monkeys, crocodiles, jaguars, jaguarundis, pumas, ocelots, tapir, coatis, vultures, harpy eagles, toucans, and deer. And more, but i forget now.

      After the zoo, we drove to the jungle lodge "Jaguar Creek" i booked the evening before. It was in a very isolated location in a heavily forested area of jungle. We had an entire 2 bedroom cabin to ourselves. Alexa and i hiked the 30 minute loop trail through the jungle and then hopped into the creek's natural pool by a small waterfall to cool off, while mom relaxed at the cabin. This place has no A/C, no tv and no wifi, which i didn't realize when i booked it, but its really nice to be out in nature. Mom was perhaps less enthusiastic as it took me a while to convince her there were no snakes inside her mattress.

      Disappointingly, we didn't spot any wildlife here, but we did hear the ferocious roar of the howler monkeys as we went to bed. Hopefully tomorrow we will reach the coast.
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    • Day 242

      Belize

      May 7, 2023 in Belize ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

      The last day and night in Mexico were a bit stressful. Boarder crossing are always a thing to worry and annoying. But this time were even more nervous. The day before crossing to Belize we noticed that we forgot to send a dog import permit application in advance. We thought you only need the health certificate of the vet and then you will get the permit at the boarder. But we were wrong. You should send the application 7 working days before crossing the boarder. We read from an other overlander who had the same problem and had to pay a 150chf fine. As we are in a rush we decided to just try to cross and if necessary pay the fine.
      The guy at the animal inspection at the boarder was not pleased at all that we arrived without permit. But miracoulously he just let us pass without the fine and we didn't even pay the 25chf import fee 😳 As we were only crossing Belize in 1 day he said: "GO, just GO!!
      Once in Belize we went to the first village to get a 1 day car insurance for 6chf. It took them half an hour to get it done but it worked. Welcome to caribean rhythm😎 The rest of the day we spent driving with a short stop in a national park for a swim in the river (even Leki went swimming🤩).
      A few km before the boarder to Guatemala we got a nice surprise. We met a super nice swiss couple from Wallis which wanted to go to the same place. We spontaneously decided to stay and cross the next boarder together.
      It was a huge coincidence that we met them! We only crossed our way because we took the wrong turn 300m before. Even more coincidence, they were living in Bern in the same house we were, just 2 years earlier 😅😅😅
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    • Day 128

      San Ignacio, Belize 🇧🇿

      July 20, 2023 in Belize ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

      Nach fasch 7 Wuche Guatemala si mir witersgreist uf Belize. Dr erst Stopp isch in San Ignacio gsi. Es Städtli churz nach der Grenze vo Guatemala nach Belize. Es isch härzig, abr louft nid viu. D’Lüt si grad ume viu angers aus no in Guatemala. Si si viu grösser und hei ihri Wurzle viufach us Afrika und offizielli Landessprach isch Englisch. Landeswährig isch Belize Dollar und mä erkennt di Britischi Commonwealth Zuegehörigkeit uf aune Münze und Nötli - d Queen isch öpe überau druffe (no)😅 Z‘ Land isch sehr grüen und es schiint meh Rücksicht uf d‘Umwelt gno z wärde, wöus ufgrumter isch und weniger Dräck a dä Strassenränder het.

      Vo San Ignacio us si mir no witeri Maya Temple ga ahluege, wo chliner si gsi aus die in Flores/Tikal, abr ou sehr interessant. 🛕🙌🏼

      Am einte Tag hei mir sones Iguana Rescue Center bsuecht. 🦎 Dert tüäsi jungi Iguanas ufzieh und mit 2 jährig freilah, abr ou verletzti Tier wieder ufpäppelä und wieder id Wildnis freila. Di Tier wärde bis zu 20jährig und chöi bis zu 2 Meter läng wärde. Z‘interessantischte a dene Tier isch, dass si chöi useläse weles Gschlächt si möchte si. Das heisst, we si männlech si, chöi si sech entscheide wiiblech z si. Die Umwandlig geit abr nume einisch im gsamte Läbe vom nä Iguana. Das mache si denn wesi merke es het entweder kes Wibli odr Mändli meh ir Umgäbig umso d Population z‘erhaute. 🧐
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    • Day 500

      San Ignacio

      August 9, 2023 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

      Auf dem Weg an die Karibikküste machen wir noch einen Halt in San Ignacio, ca. 20 km nach der Grenze. Hier in Belize wird auf einmal wieder Englisch gesprochen und man wähnt sich eher in der Karibik als in Lateinamerika. Der Ort San Ignacio ist vor allem für die Besichtigung der ATM Caves, den mystischen Mayahöhlen, bekannt. Die Preise für die Tour starten aber bei 100 US Dollar und da Thomas sich in den engen Höhlen nicht ganz so wohl fühlt sparen wir uns das Geld. Auch sonst gibt es im gemütlichen Städtchen einiges zu sehen. So haben wir die Mayaruinen Cahal Pech am Rande der Stadt fast für uns alleine. Diese sind zwar nicht so imposant wie diese in Tikal, kosten dafür praktisch nichts. Tierisch wird's dann beim Green Iguana Conservation Project, ein durch Spenden und Eintrittsgeldern finanziertes Projekt zum Schutz der Leguane. Diese werden in Belize immer noch von einheimischen gejagt und gegessen und sind hier mittlerweile eine bedrohte Art. Dieses Projekt hat sich deshalb zum Ziel gesetzt die einheimische Bevölkerung über die Leguane aufzuklären und die Jagd auf die Tiere zu stoppen. Wir nehmen an einer interessanten Führung teil und erfahren so einiges und können die Iguanas streicheln, halten und für Fotos posieren. Verletzte Tiere werden hier wieder gesund gepflegt und wenn möglich wieder ausgewildert. Es werden auch Eier ausgebrütet und die Tiere anschliessend in geschützten Reservaten freigelassen. Danach gönnen wir uns im Fluss eine kleine Abkühlung, aber da auch der Fluss kaum kühler als die deutlich über 30 Grad Lufttemperatur ist, muss als Ersatz ein eiskaltes einheimisches Belikin Bier in der kleinen Fussgängerzone herhalten. Und natürliches muss auch noch auf den 500sten Tag unserer Reise angestossen werden 🍻🥳.Read more

    • Day 43

      Chocolate

      February 12 in Belize ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      Today we learned about chocolate!

      The roots of the company we visited are Maya, for whom chocolate was an important part of rituals and celebrations and very different from the palm oil/sugar rich product we are used to from home. We learned about the process of fermentation and roasting before making traditional Maya hot chocolate drink from the roast beans. These are ground to a paste, mixed with hot water and a little honey and chilli and cinnamon. They have been making chocolate this way since 1000 BC!

      The farming cooperative exports beans to Europe. For me, part of travelling is learning about other cultures and traditions and the impact of our actions at home on others. We asked what we, as western consumers, could do to have the most positive impact on the cacao farmers. The answer was to eat chocolate with a high cocoa chocolate, 70% or more.

      Did you know, the name of the company ‘Green and Black’s’ was inspired by Maya chocolate - in Maya tradition they knew where to plant a cacao tree if they found Black soil they planted a cacao bean and if in one week they had a Green shoot appear then it was the spot.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Cayo District, Cayo

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