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10 travelers at this place:

  • Day128

    Starigrad (Camp Jaz)

    November 1, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Well, we thought we'd driven on narrow and winding roads to reach the overnight spot. It turned out Velebit National Park was to educate us as to the meaning of 'narrow winding road' on the journey down the mountain. We spent 90 minutes driving at 20mph or less on a road that was at times only about 30cm wider than the wheels of the van. This in itself was challenging. The fact that the road hairpinned countless times and over the edge was an extremely steep plunging mountainside made it rather scary on more than a few occasions! We only met one other driver who passed and gawped at us with his jaw literally hanging open. The sat nav twice tried to direct us along gravel tracks but we drew the line at these and took the long way round, only having to dodge random fallen rocks as opposed to driving on top of them.

    Despite the level of concentration required, the route was stunningly beautiful. At one point a deer jumped across the road just 10m ahead of us. A carpet of copper coloured beech leaves swallowed the sides of the road most of the time and there were glimpses of far off valleys filled with morning mist. Exposed rock added to the ruggedness of the scenery.

    We eventually reached a wide valley floor and the main road that caused us to breathe a sigh of relief when we saw it had a white line down the middle! Conical hills and craggy outcrops rose up at the edges of the valley and we passed small fields with a single cow or a flock of a dozen hardy looking sheep.

    There were a great number of abandoned houses along this stretch and stopping for lunch we were approached by what looked like an abandoned dog. Her long hair helped to mask how skinny she was and it was matted around burrs on her tail that she kept tucked tightly between her legs. She looked very flighty and far too nervous to handle us getting out of the van so Vicky threw a nugget of dog food out for her. She scurried away, thinking it was a stone but after a while she approached, sniffed and ate it. She had a small meal this way but was still far too wary to be approached and so we just had to move on.

    Camp 'Jaz' is a small campsite site by the sea, backed by rocky mountains and protected from the wind and waves by the island of Pag, running parallel with the shore and almost touching the mainland at one end. The sun was getting low in the sky as we arrived but it was still warm so we carried the canoe a few meters over the stony shore and launched out into the bay. The water surface was smooth and we never lost sight of the sea bed through the clear water, despite being more than 5m deep. As the big orange sun set over Pag island, it lit up the mountains behind us with a pretty pink hue. Darkness fell and we were treated to a clear sky and a great view of the stars.
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  • Day129


    November 2, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Instead of moving on every day or two like we did in Germany and Austria, we are planning to find a series of 'bases' here in Croatia. It is a relatively small country and so we'll slow the pace, soak in the local atmosphere and take day trips.

    On our first full day at Camp Jaz we followed the gravel track along the shoreline, past olive groves and a 16th century shell of a castle to reach the village of Starigrad. The village had a few small supermarkets, a number of bars, cafes and restaurants, a bank and a post office. A large number of houses were modern holiday lets and there was a feeling of a tourist town on the rise.

    Because we've been moving on so frequently, we've not been in one place long enough for Will's sister Sue to post Vicky's replacement cards out. Will discovered that the Croatian post office will recieve post for anyone and keep it until you can collect it. We wanted to check this was the case with Starigrad post office. After a Croatian/English/German conversation we came away with an address for Sue to post the cards to! Language was a barrier but we think the two attendants were baffled as to why we would ask if it was possible for them to receive our post; had they already recieved it? did we want them to deliver it to Camp Jaz? Anyway we got there in the end!

    One distinctive feature of Croatia is the wood fires outside restaurants and people's houses, over which food is cooked. The smell pervades the air at meal times and helps build your hunger. There was one such restaurant on Starigrad main street and they offered a seafood platter that we didn't have the willpower to resist. Being a rainy weekday, we were the only customers to start with and we sat outside under a large parasol with a view of the sea. The meal consisted of two fish (1.2kg), two langustines, 4 mussels and 4 calamari, all cooked over the wood fire. They sat on a bed of fries and spinach with potato, all drizzled with homemade pesto - delicious and so filling we didn't manage anything for tea that evening! Part way through the meal a small black dog with long wet hair padded in from the street through the little gate. It was very docile and didn't seem too interested in the food, preferring a bit of fuss and shelter underneath our table. Instead of mints or chocolate to round the meal off, we were brought 3 clementines, whose sharp full flavour helped to round the meal off nicely. When Vicky dragged herself away from the dog, we picked up a few things from the supermarket and walked back to the campsite.
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  • Day6

    Seline - Camp Pisak

    August 31, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Eingang zum Nationalpark Paklenica. Von hier bieten sich tolle Ausflüge mit dem Boot und Jeep Safaritouren zu Schauplätzen der Winnetou Filme an. Wandertouren in den Nationalpark sind eigentlich Pflichtprogrammm. Auch Zadar ist nur 40 km entfernt. Das haben wir mit dem Roller gemacht.

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