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Zadarska Županija

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  • Vicky 'n' Will's Travels5 Year European Tour
    Day132

    A day 'chilling' and Pag Island

     November 5, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    The rain and cloud had given way to a warm sun and bright blue sky. The clear water of Starigrad bay looked so inviting... until we stepped into it in our wetsuits and snorkeling gear! It was too cold even for Will and that is saying something! We stayed in for a freezing 5 minutes, seeing a few fish, some tall anemones and clam like creatures before hurrying out and into the van for a nice hot shower! Luckily the air was a lot warmer and we enjoyed lunch outside with Poppy.

    The next day the rain returned and we visited wind blown Pag island via the bridge. The terrain as we entered the island was startlingly barren. Loose rocks covered a surface devoid of any real topsoil and the only plants we could see were the occasional sprig of wild sage.

    As we progressed further onto Pag, vegetation in the form of tall reeds, scrubby bushes and trees had a foothold. We passed salt pans in the shallows and sheep huddled in dells. Arriving in Pag town, we found the majority of shops were shut, including the tourist information office, despite it being Saturday. It was similar to Zadar in that it had a harbour, narrow streets and a light stone church, only on a much smaller scale. We bought lunch at a bakery and ate it on the bracing seafront. Will particularly enjoyed the cottage cheese wrapped in filo pastry!

    Another shop that was thankfully open was the little cheese shop. Pag is famous for its Paški Sir (Pag Cheese), a strong hard ewes' milk cheese, a bit like a cross between Cheddar and Parmesan.

    On our way back to the van we were accosted by a stray tabby cat and her brood of kittens. They came running down the street towards us and the only suitable food we had for her was butter which she didn't seem too keen on. (Will wouldn't let Vicky feed her the Pag Cheese). Vicky found it difficult not to take the whole family back with her to the van!    Read more

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  • Vicky 'n' Will's Travels5 Year European Tour
    Day128

    Starigrad (Camp Jaz)

     November 1, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Well, we thought we'd driven on narrow and winding roads to reach the overnight spot. It turned out Velebit National Park was to educate us as to the meaning of 'narrow winding road' on the journey down the mountain. We spent 90 minutes driving at 20mph or less on a road that was at times only about 30cm wider than the wheels of the van. This in itself was challenging. The fact that the road hairpinned countless times and over the edge was an extremely steep plunging mountainside made it rather scary on more than a few occasions! We only met one other driver who passed and gawped at us with his jaw literally hanging open. The sat nav twice tried to direct us along gravel tracks but we drew the line at these and took the long way round, only having to dodge random fallen rocks as opposed to driving on top of them.

    Despite the level of concentration required, the route was stunningly beautiful. At one point a deer jumped across the road just 10m ahead of us. A carpet of copper coloured beech leaves swallowed the sides of the road most of the time and there were glimpses of far off valleys filled with morning mist. Exposed rock added to the ruggedness of the scenery.

    We eventually reached a wide valley floor and the main road that caused us to breathe a sigh of relief when we saw it had a white line down the middle! Conical hills and craggy outcrops rose up at the edges of the valley and we passed small fields with a single cow or a flock of a dozen hardy looking sheep.

    There were a great number of abandoned houses along this stretch and stopping for lunch we were approached by what looked like an abandoned dog. Her long hair helped to mask how skinny she was and it was matted around burrs on her tail that she kept tucked tightly between her legs. She looked very flighty and far too nervous to handle us getting out of the van so Vicky threw a nugget of dog food out for her. She scurried away, thinking it was a stone but after a while she approached, sniffed and ate it. She had a small meal this way but was still far too wary to be approached and so we just had to move on.

    Camp 'Jaz' is a small campsite site by the sea, backed by rocky mountains and protected from the wind and waves by the island of Pag, running parallel with the shore and almost touching the mainland at one end. The sun was getting low in the sky as we arrived but it was still warm so we carried the canoe a few meters over the stony shore and launched out into the bay. The water surface was smooth and we never lost sight of the sea bed through the clear water, despite being more than 5m deep. As the big orange sun set over Pag island, it lit up the mountains behind us with a pretty pink hue. Darkness fell and we were treated to a clear sky and a great view of the stars.    Read more

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  • Vicky 'n' Will's Travels5 Year European Tour
    Day130

    A day trip to Zadar

     November 3, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Zadar is one of the larger towns along Croatia's coastline. There was no problem parking here like there had been in Pula, despite a no stopping sign with a picture of a camper van outside the main car park. It was a wet weekday outside of the tourist season so the parking attendant saw no problem with the van taking up two spaces.

    Heading first to the morning market, we walked alongside the lengthy marina. There was a film of oil on the surface but we could still see down into the water and watch shoals of fish milling around the moored boats.

    Climbing to the top of the town walls, we spotted the market just inside them. It was quite different to Pula's market, less about businesses selling to tourists and more more about individuals' cottage industries selling to locals. The small, dark wood tables had metal weighing scales and weights to measure the produce and stall holders called out to us in a friendly manner. We bought some home dried figs and olive oil, the latter in a reused plastic water bottle. Will's eyes were drawn to a cheese counter laden with rounds of hard cheese. Germany had a dearth of strong hard cheese and Will has been determined to make up for it! The stallholder, knowing the quality of the product would do the selling, encouraged us to try a sliver. We came away with quarter of a truckle and smiles on our faces. Picking up potatoes, clementines and a pomegranate, we managed to resist the tempting looking squid and cured meats and started our exploration of the town.

    Many of Zadar's streets were narrow, with smooth light coloured stone lining the walkways. There was the remains of a Roman marketplace around a church and people could just wander in and out of the large, ornately carved ancient stone fragments laying on the ground. We passed through these on our way to the seafront where two interesting sound and light art installations had been built into the promenade. The Sea Organ produces music when waves push air through holes and Greeting to the Sun, a huge horizontal disc of solar panels emits random bursts of coloured light. It was too light to see the later to full effect but we enjoyed both.

    Darkness closed in as we returned to Camp Jaz but we got to see a beautiful sunset glow over the water from the head of the bay.    Read more

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  • Vicky 'n' Will's Travels5 Year European Tour
    Day129

    Starigrad

     November 2, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Instead of moving on every day or two like we did in Germany and Austria, we are planning to find a series of 'bases' here in Croatia. It is a relatively small country and so we'll slow the pace, soak in the local atmosphere and take day trips.

    On our first full day at Camp Jaz we followed the gravel track along the shoreline, past olive groves and a 16th century shell of a castle to reach the village of Starigrad. The village had a few small supermarkets, a number of bars, cafes and restaurants, a bank and a post office. A large number of houses were modern holiday lets and there was a feeling of a tourist town on the rise.

    Because we've been moving on so frequently, we've not been in one place long enough for Will's sister Sue to post Vicky's replacement cards out. Will discovered that the Croatian post office will recieve post for anyone and keep it until you can collect it. We wanted to check this was the case with Starigrad post office. After a Croatian/English/German conversation we came away with an address for Sue to post the cards to! Language was a barrier but we think the two attendants were baffled as to why we would ask if it was possible for them to receive our post; had they already recieved it? did we want them to deliver it to Camp Jaz? Anyway we got there in the end!

    One distinctive feature of Croatia is the wood fires outside restaurants and people's houses, over which food is cooked. The smell pervades the air at meal times and helps build your hunger. There was one such restaurant on Starigrad main street and they offered a seafood platter that we didn't have the willpower to resist. Being a rainy weekday, we were the only customers to start with and we sat outside under a large parasol with a view of the sea. The meal consisted of two fish (1.2kg), two langustines, 4 mussels and 4 calamari, all cooked over the wood fire. They sat on a bed of fries and spinach with potato, all drizzled with homemade pesto - delicious and so filling we didn't manage anything for tea that evening! Part way through the meal a small black dog with long wet hair padded in from the street through the little gate. It was very docile and didn't seem too interested in the food, preferring a bit of fuss and shelter underneath our table. Instead of mints or chocolate to round the meal off, we were brought 3 clementines, whose sharp full flavour helped to round the meal off nicely. When Vicky dragged herself away from the dog, we picked up a few things from the supermarket and walked back to the campsite.    Read more

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  • Beverley SmithCanada Europe 2017
    Day31

    Zadar

     July 7, 2017 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    We were staying right in the Old Town of Zadar which was perfect for wandering the many streets of marble. Zadar is known for the Roman and Venetian ruins of its peninsular Old Town. There are several Venetian gates in the city walls. Surrounding the Roman-era Forum is 11th-century St. Mary’s Convent, with religious art dating to the 8th century. There’s also the grand, 12th-century St. Anastasia’s Cathedral and the round, 9th-century pre-Romanesque Church of St. Donatus. While we were the Imperial Russian Ballet performed Swan Lake outside St Donatus. We got to watch a little from outside the fenced-off area - a little unexpected culture. Zadar had a lovely feel about. We walked outside the Old Town across the bridge where there were easily 50+ market stalls. Lots of Croatian handcrafted items mixed in with cheap souvenirs and they were still open at 11pm. Zadar is slso known for having beautiful sunsets and wow did it deliver! We had dinner at one of the restaurants along the seaside prominade where we got to watch the entire sunset which lasted about an hour. The colour of the sky was magic!Read more

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  • Vicky 'n' Will's Travels5 Year European Tour
    Day134

    Camp Kalebić, North Dalmatian coast

     November 7, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    On our last full day at Camp Jaz we had a suprise visit from the little black dog who'd sat with us during our meal in Starigrad. 'Sammy' as Vicky named him was sniffing around outside the van and was overjoyed when we came out with Poppy to give him some fuss. He took a particular interest in Poppy but unfortunately the feeling wasn't mutual. Although Vicky loved it when he hopped in the van, Poppy didn't and so he lay outside, rolling over to have his tummy rubbed. Even when we were all inside he hung around for hours. He had no collar but seemed in good condition so we were pretty sure he had a home to go to. We've seen quite a few dogs roaming free and in outdoor kennels in Croatia, most seem in good health but some owners obviously have a very different attitude towards their pets than back in the UK.

    The sun rose to a clear sky the next morning and after picking Vicky's cards up from Starigrad Post Office (thanks Sue!), we set off for Northern Dalmatia. Many Croatian main roads are lined with roadside stalls and although the vast majority are closed this time of year, there are occasionally ones selling fruit and veg. It is often difficult to stop and park the van, but needing shopping we pulled into a large supermarket and there, at the turning was a stall selling 5kg nets of clemantines for 20 kuna (around £2.50). We didn't have change so returned on the way out of the supermarket. It is good to see fruit of different sizes and shades instead of the homogeneous 'chosen ones' in chain stores.

    We'd planned to stay at a stopover in the hills but driving along the coast road, the water was spotted with small round islands of pale coloured rock, topped with lush green trees. There were dozens of campsites and the views were so beautiful that Will persuaded Vicky to try one. For €10 a night we got to park where even Vicky could throw a stone into the water (admittedly on a third attempt). We were the only ones on the site and there was even an affectionate black cat to fuss, so we were happy!    Read more

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  • Annabelle DitchburnEurope
    Day87

    Day 85

     August 23, 2017 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Bus from Split to Zadar today. It's a really awesome place, by the beach so lovely ocean air!! Really cool place to just wander around! Huge boats docked at the port, like ridiculously big (no room for fishing either dad)

    Just walked around and then watched the sun set which was very pretty. My hostel is right in the old town, it looks over ancient roman ruins which is pretty cool😊Read more

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  • Croatia / Slovenia - Fall 2018
    Day4

    Zadar

     October 31, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    11/2 hr stop here. Wandering the streets, into churches. Beautiful little town. Listening to the Sea Organ at water’s edge- unique set of stairs that have a holes in them and as the water passes through music comes out (tried to capture it on video - listen carefully. Sometimes it got quite loud. Ingenious idea

    Now pushing on towards Split via the autobahn. Listening to Croatian mandolin music on the bus    Read more

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You might also know this place by the following names:

Zadarska Županija, Zadarska Zupanija, Zaratina, 자다르 주, Zadar-regionen

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