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  • Day 16

    Make my bed and light the light

    January 22, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Our taxi driver was a really cool dude, and when we got chatting and I mentioned Fats (Antoine) Domino, he told us that he grew up in the same neighbourhood and was friends with his kids - whose names all start with the letter "A".
    He said that Antoine was a really nice man and so were his kids, and that his whole life he never got a driver's licence. Phil asked if that was why he wrote "Walkin' to New Orleans". 😁 Fats would have someone drive him wherever he wanted to go in his Rolls Royce limousine, and of course, everyone wanted to drive him (it!).
    Fats' Lower Ninth Ward house was flooded by Katrina, and he had to be rescued by boat by the Coastguard. The house has been fixed since and is still there. Our driver told us that every year on his birthday, he goes to the Musical Legends Park and takes a photo of the statue. He said that Fats' "second line" (funeral procession) was the biggest he'd ever seen and ended up at Fats' old house ... there are videos of it on YouTube.
    The trip home was long but uneventful until we got back to Auckland. There was an hour long wait for the first bags to arrive - Phil's was in the first batch - and another 20-30 minutes to mine to come through. It was on the second trailer.
    The slow trickle of bags meant there was already a huge, long queue for biosecurity. All up, it took two and a half hours from the time we landed till we were "free."
    That meant we missed our connecting flight to Nelson. Three bookings, a false start with checking our bags, and three hours later (one cancelled flight, one standby and one that worked), we were on the last leg of the journey.
    We were met at the airport with bright sunshine, a full tide, and a warm welcome home from our very good friends Chris and Baumie.
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  • Day 13

    The wind in the [palm tree] played ...

    January 19, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Sitting in the middle of Bourbon Street in the Musical Legends Park with a cold lemonade listening to a jazz band playing New Orleans blues, I'm in my happy place. The slide trombone player was a hard case and enjoyed a bit of banter with the punters. He was also very talented and could play the mouth organ, the aforementioned trombone, and had a very nice singing voice. We listened for almost an hour but felt that we needed to move on when I ran out of lemonade. I did try to make it last as long as possible.
    Phil chose the breakfast venue this morning. We criss-crossed the French Quarter somehow managing to miss all the cafés we'd seen when we weren't looking for them. He did look twice at Brennan's menu, but Eggs Hussard at $26 or Turtle soup didn't really tempt us.
    Eventually, we stumbled across Curios (which was about 20m from our hotel!) and liked the look of their selection. Once inside, we were a little disconcerted to find there were no other customers ... usually a bad sign.
    However, Phil's Eggs Pontchartrain were spectacular. They were a very upmarket kind of Eggs Benedict ... crabcakes, topped with eggs covered in hollandaise sauce, on top of sautéed spinach toast and a side of breakfast wedge potatoes. My French toast with bacon was very plain in comparison, though Phil did share some crabcake with me.
    We ticked one last thing off Phil's list, which was walking the length of Bourbon St. The top end wasn't that interesting as it became residential, and the bottom end is all geared up for partying tourists. All the bars were open when we ambled past around 10 in the morning, and in New Orleans, you can have alcoholic drinks to go.
    Early every morning, the cleaning crews are out with high-pressure hoses, disinfectant, rubbish trucks, and brooms. They clean up all the rubbish, excrement, urine, and spew from the night before. We've been told that it's the tourists who flock there, not the locals - except the ones who like to take advantage of drunken, inattentive out-of-towners.
    Ben, you could move here if you're looking for more work! Almost every premise has a broken window (some looking suspiciously like bullet holes), not to mention the Uber driver's and Grayline bus's multi-cracked windshields. Doubt you could keep up!
    We've learned to avoid the street after dark, but it's innocuous and very pretty by day.
    Had to go back to Mr Ed's tonight for more oysters ... not quite as good as last night, but still delicious. And we tried the Louisiana Crawfish bread, the BBQ Shrimps, and the banana cream pie. All highly recommended, particularly the crawfish bread.
    Our last night ended in New Orleans as our first night began - with a colourful, noisy, joyful carnival street parade.
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  • Day 12

    Havin' big fun on the bayou

    January 18, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    And what fun we had - alligators at every turn, in the water, on the fallen tree trunks and eating marshmallows out of Brandon's hand (well he did throw them into the alligator's jaws, but only after tapping him on the back to let him know there was some food). Apparently, alligators aren't able to digest food when it's cold in winter (due to brumation), so Brandon feeds them marshmallows, which they can spit out without ruining their digestive system.

    The raccoons, on the other hand, LOVE marshmallows, and they stop being nocturnal just to get their fill of the sweet treat. Any crumbs, leftover apple, or corn they leave behind, the pigs clean up ... or the introduced pest, the nutria, which is as destructive in Louisiana as the opossum in NZ.

    It was so beautiful in the swamp (the flooded forest), but major damage from Cyclone Ida was still obvious - many snapped trunks, exposed roots from toppled trees, and sodden logs on the edges of the bayou. I would have liked to have seen it before Ida, when the trees touched overhead to make tunnels.

    Earlier in the day, we visited Oak Alley, one of the best preserved of several plantation properties still standing in the region. The house wasn't half as grand as Longwood, but the location was idyllic with the avenue of oaks leading from the house to the Mississippi River. The guide's narration focused on the owners of the property, though there was acknowledgment of the work done by the slaves, and an exhibit built to simulate their living conditions. It looked and felt sanitized though - I guess the other side of the story is a different tour.

    We followed the dining advice of the tour guide, Charlie, and ate at Mr Ed's. Great choice. I liked the oysters EVEN MORE than Dragos' oysters. The ones we chose were charbroiled with garlic, butter, parmesan, and served with French bread, lemon & herbs. Our friend from the tour (who also followed Charlie's advice), offered us a taste of his fried alligator. It was very delicious and I think I like it better than chicken. It was tender and still juicy. To get my vege ration, I finished off with fried green tomatoes.

    What a day. Son of a gun, we had big fun on the bayou!
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  • Day 11

    I see skies of blue

    January 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I persuaded Phil to have breakfast at Café Beignet this morning, which turned out to be a big mistake. I took one bite of the pastry, and that was it. It tasted off to me ... a completely different animal to the Morning Call beignets. I also tried the grits for the first time ... not something I need to repeat. So breakfast was a bit of a washout, though the café decorations were pretty cool.

    We walked on down Canal Street to the Riverwalk Outlet stores. There were some really nice things to spend money on, but most were outside our price range. The best bargains were at Kate Spade - saw a handbag for $89, and others for 70% off - skechers and Le Creuset - both with 50% discount.

    We walked along the Riverwalk to Jackson Square, listening to some of the street artists singing and playing their music. I particularly liked the guy playing the keyboard and singing "My Blue Heaven," though the guy with the dog on the back of the truck was belting out a pretty good blues medley ... accompanied by melodic barks 🤣

    After some crabcakes for lunch, we headed up Dumaine Street to Louis Armstrong Park. It's so good to see he's memorialized in his home city, with both the airport and the park named in his honour. It was very serene, pretty and quiet there, with just a few people relaxing in the shade under the trees or snapping a few photos of his statue.

    We dined this evening on the Paddleboat "City of New Orleans," catching up with Craig and Kiki for the last time in New Orleans. Yakking away over dinner while we paddled up and down the Mississippi, and listening to the "Dukes of Dixieland" jazz band serenading us, was a nice way to round off our experience. Eventually, we ventured outdoors. It was a warm and clear night, though I noticed tendrils of mist hugging the water's edge. Everyone was out on the open deck, taking photos, watching the skyline, and enjoying the night.

    And that ole man river? He just keeps rollin' along.
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  • Day 10

    There is a house (or two) in New Orleans

    January 16, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I'm not sure the streetcar was called "Desire, " but it was standing room only to get to the Garden District - home to centuries-old, live oak avenues and mansions of the rich & famous such as Sandra Bullock and Beyoncé. It's also been the setting for many iconic movies, including the aforementioned Streetcar, and Easy Rider.

    We found Philip['s] Street with one or two antebellum places he could move into, and after checking them out, we'd walked up a thirst which required quenching at The Chicory House. This was our second coffee stop of the day. The French Truck was our first, and of course, we had to sample the almond croissants... very nice!

    There was evidence of where the water level had been during Katrina on some exteriors of the houses - it looked like it was around 3 metres deep. And although the homes and gardens were spectacular, the roads and sidewalks were in poor condition - it would be easy to sprain or break an ankle. The combination of tree roots, building over old canals, and the damage from stormwater, can make pavement walking like intrepid rock climbing.

    After lunch, and the best salted caramel ice cream ever, we ubered with Michael - the retired chef - to City Park, asking for the best meal recommendations on the way.

    We spent a few leisurely hours photographing the c800 year old, Spanish Moss clad oaks that would have been there in the plantation days, checking the bayou for lurking alligators, listening to the Pink Panther theme, La vie en rose, Orsini, and Stevie Wonder played on the saxophone to all-ears boys, whilst we watched Linda, the bubble lady, making magic for the excited kids.

    Sadly, James flies back home in the morning, so it was an early night for all - ready for more adventures tomorrow. Huge thanks to James for showing us the very best of New Orleans and driving us halfway across Mississippi. Not to mention all the interesting conversations and insights. It was really special reconnecting and heaps of fun reminiscing about the good old days 😁
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  • Day 9

    Feelin' good was easy ...

    January 15, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Dinner at Drago's was the icing on the cake! We shared a dozen chargrilled, butter flambéd, smoky oysters, and relived the day over a chaser of chardonnay and crabmeat au gratin.

    James had reserved a rental car and generously drove us to Natchez so I could see the city where Greg Iles set his haunting Mississippi trilogy and where he grew up and currently lives with his family. It was exactly how I envisioned it.

    On the way, we made a few stops. Baton Rouge was a surprise. We began by visiting the newly named LSU Campus Mounds (previously the Indian Mounds), now thought to be 11,300 years old, which makes them older than the Egyptian pyramids!

    At lunchtime Phil & I had the shrimp po'boy and James had the local gumbo, at the very elegant Watermark Hotel, We mooched through the downtown area - it's got a very smart, modern feel, with beautiful, mature trees near the old capitol "castle" facing out to the river - and a Rotary-built lookout point. We were dodging marathon runners whilst we were there, which made navigation very tricky, and it took a bit of winging it to find the scenic highway.

    But, with only a quick drink stop at Woodville, Mississippi, we made it to Longwood in time for the very last tour of the day.

    The potted history of the unfinished "town" (party) house set on 90 acres of land is that it was built in part by slave labour for Julia & Haller Nutt in 1860, but never finished - due to the Civil War. The estimated cost of the completed octagonal house would have been over $200,000 due to the size, opulence, and ahead-of-their-time features such as pocket doors, inbuilt insect screens and insulation.

    In 1864, Haller died of pneumonia, shortly after his infant son, and his $3,000,000 fortune evaporated. Though Julia tried to gain full reparation post-war, she was awarded approx $90,000, which she used to pay debts. She and some of her children lived in the basement of the unfinished house for the rest of their lives - until it was sold and subsequently gifted to the Pilgrimage Garden Club in 1970.

    The funny story of the day goes to our breakfast stop for beignets and coffee on the outskirts of town. James ordered for us, then had to go and get his backpack out of the car. The elderly waiter - who had a slight resemblance to Manuel - brought us our breakfast and headed back to the kitchen. We were munching away on our beignets when he came RUNNING back ... "No, no - you have to put the sugar on" and he proceeded to slap the back of the shaker so hard there was an icing sugar storm all over the table, the floor, Phil's shirt, everywhere .... He looked very gratified when we sampled his handiwork and thanked him for his help 🤣
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  • Day 8

    All that Jazz

    January 14, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The highlight of the day for me was sitting in The Spotted Cat Music Club, catnip* in hand, listening to Macumba playing Brasilian jazz with rhythm and passion on clarinet, bass and piano accordion. I was in my happy place.

    It capped off a morning of rambling through the picturesque streets of pastel-painted French style houses, shaded by oaks, palms and wrought-iron trellises. Every house was a photo op, and the camera just enhanced the azure blue background of sky.

    We'd started with breakfast in the dining room adjacent to the courtyard - still a bit nippy to brave the open air, and James joined us whilst we ate, making plans over coffee and toast. We meandered our way to Jackson Square via the praline shop, the Sox shop, and the hot sauce shop.

    Of course, we bumped into Ron and Deb in the Square and learned that Ron's suitcase was AWOL! And after checking out the mighty Mississippi and watching Dave and Robyn's paddleboat sail upriver, we stopped at the French market for oysters in the half shell. They were very tasty, but we'll below Bluff raw oyster status. We'll have to check again tomorrow to see if N'awlins can do better!

    Appetites whetted we ambled through the Frenchmen Street neighbourhood and found the Croissant door café selling heated Swiss cheese, ham & tomato baguettes, and very drinkable coffee. It was a good way to fill in time until the music began.

    And later for dinner, we ubered with Linda across town to the Magazine Street restaurants, expecting that they wouldn't be as crowded and over-subscribed as those in the French Quarter. We were wrong. We found an outside table in the little French restaurant Lilette. The food was delicious - I had sizzling shrimps (king prawns) and roasted duck breast, which were both beautifully prepared and full of flavour. We would have liked to sample the very tempting dessert menu, but we were getting colder and colder.

    It was back to the hotel to warm up and plan tomorrow's adventures.

    * catnip = mango vodka, orange liquer, cranberry & pineapple juice = very yummy!!
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  • Day 7

    Walkin' through N'Awlins

    January 13, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We stepped into our first Mardi Gras parade less than two hours after landing at Louis Armstrong New Orleans airport! We literally walked out of our hotel door and into the middle of the stiltwalkers, butterflies, walking dead .... and police cars with flashing blue and red lights. For a moment, I wondered if there'd been a murder (Mark's words about our area "being dodgy" ringing in my ears). But no, it was time to party.

    So, slightly disoriented, we headed off in the wrong direction and had to backtrack to Oceana Restaurant to catch up with James. He was patiently waiting in the queue on the cold, windy street to get a table for us ... at peak hour on the Friday night of a long weekend! It was worth waiting for though. The place was bursting at the seams and buzzing with energy and all the N'Awlins atmosphere I had imagined.

    I ordered the famous crawfish étouffée, Phil had the BBQ prawns, and James had the gumbo and a New Orleans tasting plate. But the food took second place to catching up on the last year years and planning the next few days. Even though we'd finished off with vanilla ice-cream smothered in delicious, rum-caramel sauce, and drunk the first decent coffee in days, and paid the bill, and figuratively fought off all the people queuing for our table, we were still talking when the long week started catching up with Phil. So we adjourned to our deluxe room and talked some more!

    However, we don't have the stamina of Kiki and Craig. The party they hosted in their suite last night kept them up till 2.30am this morning! We travelled across the continent with them (the long flights giving them time to get 40 winks) and shared a taxi into the city. Katrina was front of mind as we drove over bridge after bridge across the swampy, low-lying suburbs. And it was a sobering moment when we drove past Caesars Superdome - the "shelter of last resort" for those who couldn't evacuate during the hurricane ... so hard to believe it was over 17 years ago.

    I knew I was in New Orleans when I overheard the flight attendants making plans as I disembarked, "What's the time?", "Almost 4.30" "Good, let's go have coffee and beignets then".
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  • Day 6

    You take the high road

    January 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    A lighter day today for partners, we just had one working session, then a farewell celebration in the sun-filled courtyard. There were infused waters - strawberry, pineapple & orange, cucumber - to drink, and fruit kebabs to eat. If you felt semi energetic, you could do chair yoga, Tai chi, sudoku, or other pastimes. I spent the time talking about what to see and do in New Orleans with Mark (his photos of oysters the size of plates stuck with me), discussing the merits of the programme with Ian, and passing on greetings from Nelson to Tom Thorfinson.

    I also had some lovely conversations at the meal table with Marie Christine about the beauty of France and in particular her hometown, Les Sables-d'Olonne on the West Coast. Then she asked me about the native animals in New Zealand, and I explained that we mostly had birds that can't fly. She thought that was very odd. I mentioned that we did have one native mammal - a bat. Pardonne-moi, she said, a what? Bat, I repeated. She reached for her phone and Google Translate, and after I spelled it, she said cautiously ... " A flying mouse??" Mais oui, I said, that's right 😁

    One of the biggest highlights for me has been reconnecting with Shobana over the last few days. At least once or twice a day, we hang out quietly together and talk about everything and nothing, and we introduce one another to each other's friends, or in Shobana's case - the latest hilarious meme. It's good to know that she and Ravi are coming to Melbourne, so we'll be able to catch up again at the Conference.

    The last night banquet was a chance to round off the week and relax with our new friends. We shared our table with Bill & Deb and half a dozen from the German contingent. They all spoke excellent English, and we had some interesting conversations about how they were planning to organise their year. The night ended with speeches from the three RI leaders, who were eloquent and inspiring.

    Although we were invited to Craig and Kiki's stunning suite for the after-match function, we said our goodbyes in the hallway, and headed back to our room to talk to the pillow 😴
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  • Day 5

    The colours of the map are running

    January 11, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Tonight was cultural exchange night, where we got to mix and meet with attendees from all over the world. It was colourful, chaotic bedlam rounded off with international tasting stations from India, China, USA, Australia, and various other nations. We ate our BBQ prawns under the stars in the hotel courtyard with strings of fairy lights to see by and all sorts of background music playing from Italian opera to Zorba the Greek.

    Earlier in the day we'd heard from the best speakers yet - Gordon telling his own story of the impact of mental illness; a young semi-paralyzed victim of a gunshot wound to his head at age 13, and the impact on his life; a John Hopkins doctor speaking on the treatments available and how advanced they are; a young woman working to provide humanitarian aid in Ukraine with the full support of her Indian parents (her father could remember the trauma of partition in 1947); and Heather talking about being Gordon's Rotary partner.

    The image that will stay with me was the partially-repaired young man Freddie talking about Kintsukuroi - the Japanese art of sealing breaks and cracks in their ceramics with powered gold to make the "broken" object more valuable and beautiful than before.
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