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Camino de Santiago - Frances

september - oktober 2022
Et 45-dags eventyr af Traveling Devols Læs mere
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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    1
    Dag 20

    Rabé de las Calzadas

    24. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It is said that you will travel through stages of experiences while walking the Camino; the first physical, then mental and finally spiritual. From Peg’s and my experience so far, we are hoping for a quick end to the physical stage and will welcome the mental.

    My tendon is doing amazingly well. I think the lighter days and new shoes have really helped (oh, and the miracle gel). But things were more challenging for Peg this morning. She has had a cough and stuffy head for the last couple of days. Today she woke feeling miserable. We canceled our very hard to get reservation for the night and tried to extend our stay in Burgos. Saturday night in Burgos with a fall festival was very busy with tourists and pilgrims and town was sold out. After lots of frustrations looking for a place for the night we found one.... an 8 mile walk away. It was such a relief to find a spot, but the walk was long. That said it was still a beautiful day to walk with a light sprinkle at the end.

    We had a great chat in a little bar with Beto from Mexico who is friends with the owners of Casa Ramos restaurant in Chico. What a small world. And little rewards for the day, we are in a very modern hotel that upgraded us to a two level, two bedroom suite with a living room, kitchen and most importantly, a washing machine!! The second reward was that Peg tested negative for COVID which we are hearing is making the rounds through the pilgrim family. Tomorrow’s a new day.

     Buen Camino.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    2
    111
    Dag 21

    Castrojériz

    25. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    If you look at the last photo it sums up how our day started off. Peg woke up feeling horrible in a town with no services or food. The thought of walking the 17 miles to the next town was out of the question. Do we stay another day after the last two rest days we took for my tendon problem or take the $85 EURO taxi to our next town? Sometimes you have to set your pride aside and keep your eyes on the goals; seeing an amazing country, meeting wonderful people, testing our ourselves, and yes, walk as much as you can. We opted for the taxi.

    Once we got to Castrojeriz I took a hike straight up to a castle ruin (why is everything straight up in Spain?). From the top of the mountain you got a 360 degree view of the whole region. It was totally worth the climb. My ankle is feeling great by the way!

    The hostel is really nice tonight. Sabrina, the owner, let us in early so Peg could sleep and even checked up on her. Sabrina just took over the hostel 25 days ago after buying it from the owner who retired. She is from Argentina having moved to Spain a year and a half ago. We have met many hostel and albergue owners, who are from countries other than Spain, that are drawn to the Camino.

    Tomorrow dawns a new day, just 16 miles. Good vibes for Peg that she feels better.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    1
    Dag 22

    Fromista - 1st full day on Meseta

    26. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Before I get into the day I just have to comment on something really special in Spain, the showers. Oh my word, in California we have those low flow shower nozzles. They don’t have those here. When you turn the shower on, if you’re not careful, you might knock yourself to the ground. The pressure and volume is amazing!

    Now to the day - Peg woke up still feeling bad after a rough night of coughing and a horrible sore throat. When we discover the town doctor and pharmacy did not open until 11:00 we decided to start walking in hopes of finding medicine along the way. Sabrina at the hostel got us coffee and a Spanish standard, fresh squeezed orange juice, and we where off. This was our first full day on the Meseta, a vast plain that goes on for a week. The weather was perfect hiking weather with amazing color and a constantly changing landscape. Many see the Meseta as boring flats to be endured. We found them to be beautiful with big skies, easily competing with Montana. The walking was easy and Peg tackled it with grace. I was very proud of her, knowing how she felt.

    We grabbed lunch in Boadilla del Camino in a fancy place that was playing jazz from NPR which was very out of place in the small farming town. From here we had a 4 mile walk along a beautiful canal into the town of Fromista. Peg found the pharmacy and got setup with a special 'bag of cures' to fix her up.

    Today finished up at 17 miles. Tomorrow will likely be a lighter day around 12.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    Dag 23

    Carrión de los Condes

    27. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Day 2 on the Meseta and we clearly have moved into the mental stage of the Camino. Our walk was sprinkled with an odd silence. This section of Spain is so quiet. The roads have few cars or trucks and the village streets are empty most of the time. It has a peace to it that we just don’t get at home. When you see something going on it stands out, like the lady placing shoes out to air on a second floor window sill. No other sounds or activity for blocks, just an older Spanish lady going about her day.

    At one point we where walking along a road into a town and I said to Peg, “do you hear that?” there was no sounds other than a bird in the distance whose sound was amplified by the lack of noise. The peace and silence gives you time to clear your mind and think. The Meseta will last about a week so we have a lot of thinking time ahead of us. 😳

    On the health side of things, Peg looks to be on the mend. Today ended up at about 13 miles across the plains with a lovely walk along a tree shaded canal. The walking is mostly flat and easy going at this stage.

    Tomorrow will take us about 17 miles with a stay in a group albergue at the end of the day. While Peg has been feeling bad, we have been staying in private rooms in hostels or hotels. But it’s time to stop being spoiled with nice sheets and quiet rooms. Back to the serenade of two dozen people snoring the night away.
    Wish us luck with that!

    Buen Camino.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    1
    Dag 24

    Terradillos de los Templarios

    28. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Today we walked 16.7 miles on a cold, windy, straight road in the middle of nowhere Spain and loved every minute of it. We are in a great albergue tonight sharing a room with a father/son duo from Denmark. Their English is amazing and we just finished having dinner with them and had a wonderful conversation. They have warned us of their snoring and I have warned them of my coughing so maybe they are the perfect roommates?? Or, there may not be much sleeping tonight.

    All in all it was a great day walking on the Meseta.

    Buen Camino!!    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    14
    Dag 25

    Bercianos del Real Camino

    29. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Today was rough. Not just for us but seemingly for everyone. We gathered at the bar at the end of the day, which is customary, and multiple friends were looking for alternatives to make this better and to help ease the pain. For many that means hopping a bus to the big city of Leon and regrouping. We are hoping that a shower, good night’s sleep and ibuprofen will help our mood.

    Today was also sad as we had to say goodbye to an awesome Irish couple and 3 wonderful Brits as they had completed “their stage”of the Camino and hopped a train for home. We have learned that it is not unusual for Europeans to take a week vacation and walk the Camino in stages. They think we are crazy for doing it all at once but understand the cost to fly from the U.S. or elsewhere in the world multiple times makes it cost preventative to do it any other way.

    I didn’t like this idea of new people jumping in, mid-stream, to the middle of “our” Camino in their freshly laundered clothes with their silly upbeat attitudes. But what I found was they infused new joy into our journey. They were a delight. And in just 4-5 days they became favorites of everyone around them. Camino Angels? I think possibly so.

    So to Barry and Sonya from Dublin and Dave, John and Chris from England, thank you for brightening our days with great conversation and companionship. We will miss you as we journey on.

    Buen Camino.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    1
    Dag 26

    Reliegos

    30. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    I guess a good night's sleep without the cacophony of a room of snoring maestros is a good thing because today was a great walk. It ended up just shy of 13 miles along a quiet country road. The path was tree lined with a tree planted every 10 feet on the edge of the path for all 13 miles. The longest row of trees I have ever seen.

    The weather has been cool in the mornings; 36-40 degrees most days. That makes us walk at a pretty good clip when we start off. Today we averaged 3.2 miles an hour and got to our albergue plenty early. It is run by a brother and sister and is maybe the nicest we have stayed in. They are super friendly and focused on you enjoying your stay. When they purchased it, each room slept 12. They decided fewer was better and changed the 4 rooms to sleep just 2 each. Our room is large with 2 balconies and a table and chairs with a great view of all the pilgrims going by.

    The people you meet on the Camino is one of it’s greatest gifts. Today we played leap frog with Ju from Arizona, had a great talk with Steve from Texas who just retired as an ER doctor, met Mechail, a nice young lady from Louisiana and reconnected with Emily who we had not seen since Logroño. Having a common experience seems to open people up to conversations quickly and making new friends is easy.

    Tomorrow we head into León for two nights. We are excited to see one of Spain’s great cities and we hope to check up with other pilgrims we haven’t seen for a few days.

    Buen Camino    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    2
    212
    Dag 27

    León

    1. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We started out from Reliegos about 7:30am after Mary, the owner of the hostel, made us good coffee and gave us a pastry and banana for energy. The hike into León was a little under 16 miles with a wide range of changes and variation.

    We noticed yesterday that the landscape had changed from brown to green and today was even a bigger change. We clearly have moved into a different environment and are moving from the flat agricultural region back into more hills. After a week of flats we are looking forward to the change.

    Our walk was really quiet up until the last couple of miles as we started into the city. León was a bit of a shock to the system after days of quiet. It is much larger than Pamplona or Logroño and may take a bit to get used to. We are here for 2 nights for a little down time and exploring before getting back to the solitude of walking.

    Buen Camino    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    2
    Dag 29

    Rest day in León

    3. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    We had a good rest day in León. We caught up with friends, did a little resupply and failed at getting more cash. It is very risky putting your ATM card into a machine here as it may not come back. This happen to a friend and she had to wait in the town until the bank opened to get her card back. The bank was closed for two days! 🥴

    We stayed in a quirky hostel with a great view of a fountain located on a major roundabout. Yesterday there was a major festival in town that brought people from every region within proximity of Leon. The parade lasted forever with each region marching behind a giant flag of their providence. The parade ended at the cathedral where all flags were left around the perimeter of the cathedral. We watched most of the parade from the streets but when it was never-ending, we realized we could watch it from the window of our hostel since they paraded right past the fountain. It seems every time we are in a major city, it is during a festival.

    We didn't think we were interested in touring yet another cathedral but are so glad we toured the cathedral in Leon. The stained glass in this particular cathedral is absolutely amazing.

    Today we are off to Villavante, hope to have more photos and updates tonight.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeCamino de Santiago - Frances
    21
    Dag 29

    Villavante

    3. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Today we set out from León back to the quiet countryside. Somehow each of our city visits have happened during big annual festivals and they are just packed. The festival in León drew from every town and village in the region and it was wild. Getting back to the solitude of walking was pleasant.

    Our walk took us along the straightest and flattest path we have walked on the whole trip. The Meseta clearly did not end at León. We also past the 300k marker meaning we have now walked over 500 kilometers of our 800k journey. Amazing.

    We had great company walking with Sara and Andrew from Australia the entire day, and ended up in a wonderful country home renovated from an old mill built over a stream. The owners are amazing; they gave us a beer when we arrived, then did our laundry, brought us wine later in the afternoon, made an awesome dinner and will have breakfast ready for us in the morning. We feel totally pampered. And to think we thought we would just get a bed for the night.

    Tomorrow will be more farming country slowly taking us into the foothills. It will be interesting to see what the next few days reveal to us.    Læs mere

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