Fiji
Fiji

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    • Hari 97

      Bula!

      11 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      So last night we struggled to get our clothes dry. This morning we had a little bit of time to get them properly dry, and the sun was there to help. Nevertheless, we had to really leave 10:30 the latest, to get fuel and to deliver the car. So it felt like a race against time. But the sun did its job and despite all pessimism dried it all just on time.

      The flight went well, Machiel's ears were OK so it seems the efforts taken for that in New Zealand paid off. But time will tell. We landed in Fiji! "Bula!" is what everyone likes saying to greet you. So that's a new word learned. The first thing we noticed was the warmth and humidity. How were we going to get used to this? This nice feeling of every single part of your body becoming sticky...

      While on the plane we had to fill in two forms this time: one for bio security, and one for corona. We still had some leftover nuts and cookies with us, that in New Zealand or Chile would properly not have been allowed in, but here the check was incredibly relaxed and we were allowed to take it all as long as we "declared it". Not sure if that's how bio security works, but OK.

      In the arrival hall, we got some cash from the ATM, and exchanged our booking confirmation for proper vouchers for the boats we had booked. After a long wait for our shuttle bus to arrive, we were driven to our hostel. Except the formula works a bit differently here, because it's more like you have a dozen or so hostels all owned by 1 organisation, with one reception and restaurant where everyone who stays at any of these hostels will end up having to go to. We eventually figured it out and made it to our nicely air conditioned dorm room. Not too bad. But we were still missing dinner. So we had to go back out into the hotness. Back at the restaurant we ordered a pizza and fries. The very long wait for those was made more interesting by the Dutch couple we had met in the shuttle. We could share some nice sandfly traumas and got to know that corona will make them get stranded in Hongkong Airport for 3 days.

      Eventually we were fed well, packed our bags or better the bag-we-will-store-here-until-we-return-in-6-days for the following morning (we really didn't intend to take all our camping gear on the 2 islands we were going to stay on) and went to bed again.
      Baca selengkapnya

    • Hari 98

      Barefoot Manta

      12 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      With the pizza delay from yesterday's dinner in mind, we left the hostel extra early. We dropped off some luggage we didn't need for Yasawa, and had some toast and cereal at the breakfast bar. We had heard that buying water on the islands was expensive. The advice was to buy water on the boat that taxis between Nadi and the island, the "Yasawa Flyer" . Better yet we figured we would buy water on the mainland. There was a little shop next to the hostel that advertised 6 bottles for 10FJD, but unfortunately it was closed when we had arrived and also when we left in the morning. A fancy airconditioned bus took us and 30 others to Port Denarau. After searching there for awhile, we bought 6 bottles for 20FJD. Then we boarded the Yasawa Flyer. The waves at times got rough and made us a bit seasick, but after all it was OK. After 3 hours we reached our island. We were picked up by smaller boats and then brought to resort Barefoot Manta. It's called that due to the chance of swimming with manta rays, but they're only here between April and November.

      Arriving at the beach, we were received by a small group of employees playing a welcome song for us. We got some instructions, had to sign some papers and pay the meal plan. Then we were led to our 'bure', which was surprisingly nice. It was a beach hut with 4 beds but we were for today the only guests and our beds were not even bunk beds. Right in front of it we had 2 beach chairs and our own private beach excess. After a quick look we had lunch. We could choose between a fish meal, chicken vegetable pasta and lemon couscous. We went for the first two options and it tasted quite nice. We also realized that buying water here is cheaper than on the boat, so it all doesn't really matter.

      Afterwards we felt quite defeated by the hot humid weather. We went back to our bure, read books and napped and wondered if we would get used to it. Too bad that not even the water can cool you down as it is just as warm as the air. At 7 we went for dinner to the sunset bar. A big buffet with salads, rice, bread, fish, meat and grilled vegetables was waiting for us. It was very tasty and while talking to a Flemish girl and listening to live local music, we had a very nice dinner at the beach next to a campfire. It got dark early, we were quite tired from this long day, so we went for a shower and made it back into our private bure.
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    • Hari 99

      Snorkeling

      13 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

      Early in the morning the air wasn't too bad. We shortly enjoyed the non-sweat moment before the sun got strong again. The breakfast buffet was pretty good: toast, fruit, and pancakes. We relaxed a bit in the hammocks, then tried out the water with our borrowed snorkeling gear. It wasn't hard to find some fish, some were practically already visible from the shore. Further into the water we found some great coral, fish of all kinds, and even a pretty big blue sea star. There were swarms with thousands of maybe 2cm small very blue fish. We saw lots of different 10cm big fishes, some were striped like zebras, others blue with a bit of yellow or white and some where simply incredibly blue. There were also bigger fish, like trumpet fish which were maybe half a meter long but only what looked like 3cm thick. Another type was combining purple with blue, yellow and a bit of red. And our favorite, called pennant coralfish. And lots of others. But the most amazing thing was probably the coral and its intensive blue color. We hadn't seen this before in Langkawi or Lombok.

      After lunch it became low tide, and we went in again for some more exploration. It felt even better as the low tide meant we were so close to the coral right from the beach. The low tide also meant that getting ashore was trickier, which we found out the hard way when we tried to reach another beach but didn't find a way between the coral to safely get there. So our last snorkeling of the day was stretched out a bit further than we would have liked. It was still amazing to see the underwater life but we were exhausted when we got back. Perfect time to try the hammocks for a bit more.

      In the evening we again had dinner with live music. This time not a buffet but a nice three course meal, including ice cream :)
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    • Hari 100

      Plastic soup

      14 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      The day started with the simple thought of going snorkeling in the awesome coral reef on the sunrise beach where we had such a great time the previous day. But it was a bit windy from the east, so that didn't look ideal. We borrowed rental gear again and first tried the sunset beach on the other side. Unfortunately it turned out there wasnt much going on there, few fishes and no coral. Worst of all, there was basically just sand so the visibility was poor. We tried the north beach, and despite the eastern wind making it also wavy and tougher to swim, we did see some coral and a few fishes. But it wasn't all that, especially after yesterday's experience. So we went back to sunrise beach. Another snorkeler just got out of the water. We asked him about his experience but he didn't sound too positive and the waves looked even tougher than on the north beach. So we decided to skip snorkeling for the morning.

      Instead we thought we'd make ourselves useful and do a beach walk. This was announced to us at breakfast as a 9am activity in which we'd collect plastic trash from the beaches. Now it was already 10:30 though. The guy organising it seemed very disappointed that no one had shown up at 9am but he seemed very thankful and happy when we volunteered to do it now. With a pair of plastic gloves and a trash bag each, we made our way to sunrise beach. Within an hour we had collected a significant amount. Plastic straws, tooth brushes, lighters, clothes pegs, shavers, cookie bags, flip-flops and countless of plastic bags in all sizes and huge pieces of hard plastic whose origin we couldn't figure out. While knowing about the plastic soup in the oceans, it was still shocking. We went snorkeling at this same beach the day earlier and you generally didn't even notice it much, even at the shoreline. But walking by it now specifically looking for trash, you keep finding more and more of it and it never ends. When lunch time arrived, our bags were heavy and we handed them in. After lunch we wanted to try more snorkeling, but the wind was only gaining in power. Susanne still bravely gave it a go. Still the same fishes and coral as the day before just a bit more tiring as you had to fight the wind, waves and resulting current.

      The wind kept increasing, to the extent of everyone leaving the sunrise beach and finding somewhere to chill on the other side of the main resort building. We did as well, and it wasn't bad at all there because the clouds and strong breeze made it a little cooler. We asked employee Sam for a coconut and even though it wasn't on any menu, he got us two fresh ones. Later in the afternoon we went for a little walk along sunset beach. At the very end we discovered some small sharks that were hunting small fishes near the shore. Sometimes they were as close as a meter from the rocks we were standing on. Around the corner would have been the perfect wind shaded private spot for a valentines day sunset. Just the clouds weren't playing along. So we headed back to the resort to have dinner with a pasta buffet. Our table was joined by one of our new roommates and another girl and we kept talking until it was time for bed.

      In the meantime the wind got so strong that we were seriously a bit worried about all the coconuts above our heads. Luckily they didn't fall when we passed but we still heard the wind the whole night and for the very first time here we slept with the door and windows facing the ocean closed.
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    • Hari 101

      Blue Lagoon

      15 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

      After 3 nights we were going to leave the Barefoot Manta resort on Drawaqa Island. Despite the worsening weather we've grown to like it here, mainly because of the sincere kindness of the staff. We had a relaxed morning and one employee told us the story of Fiji, as a thank you for the beach cleaning the previous day. Then part of the staff performed a farewell song for us. They are really good here in putting lots of emotions in songs. We were taken to the Yasawa Flyer and then we went up north to Nacula Island.

      On arrival we were given a short briefing about the resort by the Australian owner and were taken to our dorm. No beach hut this time, but a simple airconditioned room. It was quite different here compared to the last resort. Airconditioning, a pool, proper huts with real walls, a beach bar with (loud) music etc. In a lot of way it's fancier here, including the food. But we grew to like the simplicity, quietness and especially the caring employees of the Barefoot Manta. To phrase it with the words of an Israeli we met: 'Here they told their employees to serve the guests. Back there they told them to host the guests.'

      After lunch we wanted to try snorkeling. Machiel realised at this point that his water shoes were still at Barefoot Manta. After a few visits to the reception, they managed to contact them and request them to be sent over with the next shipment of tourists the following day. The only thing we were missing was a confirmation that they were found, so we were far from sure this was going to work.

      Anyway, we borrowed an extra set of fins and went snorkeling. It was very much low tide which meant it was difficult to swim over the coral. Despite the limited options, we still saw quite some fishes. The coral however wasn't as nice as on the previous island. Less colorful and, if our limited knowledge is correct, also quite some dead or unhealthy coral. After a shower, we were tipped to walk up the hill behind the resort for sunset. We quickly put on our shoes and left, but unfortunately we were just a few minutes late. We enjoyed dinner talking to a US-Ukrainian couple, and further enjoyed the nice view.
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    • Hari 102

      Going to church

      16 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

      Today was Sunday so we went to church. A boat took us to a beach near Nacula village, the largest on the island. Because it was Sunday, our boat was apparently not allowed to go to the beach at the village itself. Which was nice as it meant that after a small walk through the forest, we also walked through part of the village. Most houses were in poor condition, but everyone seemed to be happy. The church was quite big for how small the village was. And it was one out of three churches in this village. The service itself was a sweaty version of the church services we know except that we didn't understand much because of the language. We had secretly hoped the happy spirit of the Fijian volk would show through a bit more, but as it turns out that's more the case at one of the other two churches in the village.

      In the afternoon we went snorkeling once again. At one point we saw two rays on the ocean floor. Very cool. And again we saw plenty of colorful fish. It just seems like every time we spot some more cool fishes. We are still in the process of learning their names. So far we identified the Bluebanded Surgeonfish, Moorish Idol, several kinds of Butterflyfish, Bicolor Parrotfish and Bullethead Parrotfish. Susanne also spotted a lion fish, which we later found out can be venomous. Only when touching it though.

      Before dinner the staff performed some Fijian songs in a choir. Dinner was a la carte, and after that it was movie night. The people voted for Ford vs Ferrari, which Machiel was very happy about. It was an interesting experience to watch it on a canvas sheet hung up between palm trees, with the waves crashing right behind it. Susanne wasn't too interested and instead enjoyed the company of an Israelian couple who are on a similar trip as us.
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    • Hari 103

      Making a beach basket

      17 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

      The day started with our favorite breakfast - crepes with maple sirup. Yummy! After some digesting time it was time to try out our handcraft skills. We joined the free activity of basket weaving. We all got part of a coconut tree leaf, some very brief explanation - 'take every second one' - and there we went. We figured out the weaving part, but it was still a miracle on how to transform this flat part into a basket. Turns out it 'just' takes some braiding and a knife and there you go. Ready is your new beach basket. It wasn't all that simple though but with some help we got there. It was quite a lot of fun.

      With our new baskets we then made out way to two shaded sunbeds and went for some snorkeling again. We just don't get tired of it. This time we spotted some weird plants that looked like underwater versions of the land based meat eating plants. Sometimes it moved a bit as if it was breathing. We also spotted some interesting fish that looked like a mix of fish and jellyfish or so. We stayed in the water for quite long so when getting out we were really tired and ready for a nap. The night also gave us a great sunset sky.
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    • Hari 105

      Preparing for Australia

      19 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      We stayed in bed long this morning. Our stomachs were not too happy for already a while. So we decided to take it slow with food now that we actually could decide the eating times ourselves and had to pay for it by choice of meal rather than for a daily package. After a late breakfast and Susanne being addicted to a book, it was time to face reality. In less than 24 hours we were gonna be in Melbourne and apart from the first 4 nights, we had nothing booked and no real plan on what to do and how. Panic set in, especially when we realised that no matter how we looked at it, it was gonna be more expensive than our daily budget.

      We researched anyways and got a global idea of what we wanted to see in the coming 7 weeks. Currently that means 3 weeks for the route Melbourne - Great Ocean Road - Adelaide - Ayers Rock - Alice Springs, then a magic transfer to Broome or Perth and then another 3 weeks for the route Perth - Broome or Broome - Perth. We haven't decided yet nor booked anything. So we'll see in the next days what we end up with. We had a late small dinner at the hostel restaurant, packed our big backpacks again and got ready for our early flight tomorrow.
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    • Hari 828

      Ab ins Paradies - it's Fiji Time

      26 Februari 2020, Fiji ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Nach 3 Stunden Flug, schlägt die Uhr für uns die kommenden 19 Tage 'Fiji Time'.

      Tobis Kindheitstraum geht endlich in Erfüllung und wir sind super gespannt, was uns erwartet.

      Mit dem ersten Schritt aus dem Flugzeug rannten wir gegen eine von 90% Luftfeuchtigkeit geschwängerte Wand, die uns kurz den Atmen nahm - was für Klimawandel 😉. In der Früh trug Andrea noch eine lange Hose und Pulli, weil es in Christchurch kalt war und nun haben wir 32 Grad, Sonne pur und leben dauerhaft in einer Sauna.

      Begrüßt wurden wir mit einem musikalischen Empfangskomitee Einheimischer. Sie spielten mit Okulele, Gitarre, klatschten in die Hände, sangen und haben mit einem lauten 'Bula' uns willkommen geheißen. Was für ein toller Startschuss. Die Passkontrolle war sehr aufregend für uns - nach einer Stunde langen Wartens und Registrierung der Drohne durften wir den Flughafen verlassen.

      Sava, ein Fidschianer, mit dem wir über Facebook in Kontakt getreten sind, holte uns ab, fuhr mit uns zu seinem Haus und organisierte für uns eine 11 Tage Insel Tour, an der Westküste der 'Yasawa Groups'. Wir lernten seine Familie kennen, schliefen und aßen dort für $30. Er führt ein sehr einfaches, jedoch glückliches Leben und lehrte uns einiges aus seiner Kultur.

      Die ersten 3 Nächte sind auf der Insel Mana geplant, wo wir in dem Ratu Kini Backpackers and Dive Resort übernachten.

      Auch hier wurden wir nach einer 50 minütigen Bootsüberfahrt mit einer tollen Gesangseinlage und einem lauten 'Bula' in Empfang genommen. Die Insel ist traumhaft schön und das Wasser hat Badewannenniveau, unvorstellbar nach 9 Monate kaltem Meereswasser in Neuseeland.

      Pünktlich zum Abendessen ging die Sonne um 18.30Uhr unter und tauchte den Himmel in wunderschöne Farben. Es gab ein traditionelles Essen: Fisch, Hähnchen, Spinat in 🥥-milch, Taro, Süßkartoffel, Salat und Melone - das war super lecker.

      Im Anschluss stand 'Kava' an, ebenfalls eine Tradition auf Fidschi.
      Aus Pflanzenbestandteilen (meist getrocknet und pulverisiert) wird ein traditionelles Getränk hergestellt, das vor allem als Zeremonialgetränk bei religiösen und kulturellen Anlässen konsumiert wird. Es schmeckte gewöhnungsbedürftig, so wie es aussah, nach Schlammbrühe. Es soll eine nakotisierende Wirkung und ein Taubheitsgefühl im Mund hervorrufen. Im Koma lagen wir nicht, allerdings fühlten wir eine kurzweilige Taubheit. 😁 Wir unterhielten uns währenddessen mit anderen Reisenden und gingen anschließend ins Bett.

      Wir sind gespannt, was uns die nächsten Tage erwartet, ob wir uns an den Wetterumschwung und das Schwitzen gewöhnen werden. ☺
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    • Hari 46

      Suva, Fiji

      9 Maret 2020, Fiji ⋅ 🌧 81 °F

      After crossing the International Date Line, we lost Saturday, so that means we had an alcohol-free, fasting day!! Woohoo!!

      Today we are in Suva, Fiji, an unscheduled stop for us since we are dodging the Coronavirus and this was an island that would let us visit. It is certainly becoming more challenging each day.
      I’m sure we will need to make some sort of a decision soon about whether or not to continue our cruise.

      We did have a nice, but rainy day here in Fiji as this is the start of their rainy season. We visited a spice farm which was quite interesting. I know I take for granted the packaged spices I buy, never thinking back to the actual plant that they came from. The Fijians did a Kava welcoming ceremony, served lunch that was cooked in an underground oven, toured us through the spice trees and bushes, and shared their traditional dance and stories. They are a warrior culture, often fighting other tribes on their own island. They were also a cannibalistic culture, sometimes killing and then eating their enemies.

      Suva is a large, bustling city with modern stores and people and vehicles everywhere! The fruit and vegetable market was one of the prettiest and cleanest we’ve ever seen. Hundreds of watermelons, peppers, taro, eggplant, tomatoes, coconuts and long beans were all on beautiful display. The vendors were full of smiles and saying “bula” as a greeting.

      Many of the men here where a type of wrap-around skirt with a formal shirt and sandals.
      It was an interesting stop and a nice contrast to a very small town we’ll visit tomorrow on a neighboring island.
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