Germany
Bingen am Rhein

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    • Day46

      Fünf Fotos-Rhine Cruise Day 4

      May 29 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

      We had a restful night moored about a mile from Speyer's old town. Although a group tour was arranged, we decided to repeat our independent journey into town based on the presentation we had heard about the highlights of Speyer. Admittedly, while we had heard of Speyer previously, we knew very little about the town.

      When we left the boat, it was a bit chilly and was threatening to rain. The first thing we noticed on the way to town was a series of children's paintings on a wall outside a restaurant. It captured for me the innocence of children, and my thoughts returned to those who were murdered earlier in this week as well as those who witnessed it. May we have the resolve to do better for them.

      We loved the forested walk to the center of the city. The green space was lush and it it was a quiet morning. It really felt like we had the city to ourselves.

      I took the time to go into the Domkirche St. Maria und St. Stephan (Speyer Cathedral) about 45 minutes before church services while Jim C explored the adjacent courtyard. There were only a handful of people in the cathedral, and I appreciated the stillness.

      In contrast to many of the Italian Cathedrals, this one is beautiful in its stark simplicity. The stained glass windows are shades of grey Purportedly, construction began in 1024 A.D. In reviewing the history there were several reconstructions after fires, reconstructions and battles. The different architectural approaches are quite evident when viewing the exterior of the church. While the crypt was closed, there were several inscriptions on the floor near the altar memorializing a number of emperors, expresses and bishoos who were laid to rest.

      As we left the church grounds, we walked toward the St. George Fountain in the center of the old town. As we used a tool to translate the various inscriptions surrounding the image of St. George, it became more clear that this fountain was created as part of 1930's Nazi propaganda in honor of fallen soldiers in WWI. Upon further research, I learned that subsequently the Speyer Town Council added a plaque noting that this captured the sentiment of the time, a seemingly week rationalization for the portrayal. I don't think it's unlike too many politicians today wanting to gloss over our own country's history of white supremacy.

      Shortly before we reached the old town gate (Altpoertel) a cacophony of bells sounded which seemed intent on waking the entire city. They continued for about fifteen minutes.

      The Altpoertel is the medieval west city gate of Speyer. and is one of the original 68 towers in the old walls and gates. It was originally
      constructed in the 13th century with several reconstructions over the centuries. It was almost destroyed by French troops who relented when monks pleaded to spare the tower for fear that it would fall and destroy the monastery. It survived; the rest of Speyer and the cathedral were destroyed. It stands today as one of the largest city gates in Germany.

      As we left the Altpoertel, we devoted most of our time in Speyer to visit the ShUM Speyer, a museum dedicated to the Jewish heritage in Speyer dating back over 1000 years ago.

      In 1084, a Bishop took in Jewish refugees from Mainz. Jewish and Christian communities coexisted in peace for over four hundred years. The persecutions around the Black Death ended that time of peace. Subsequent attempts to reestablish the Jewish community were disrupted frequently in the 1500's. The destruction of Speyer in 1689 also witnessed the destruction of the synagogue.

      We toured the remaining structure of the synagogue and adjacent women's school. Women were allowed to listen to what was happening in the synagogue through acoustic slits in the wall.

      We toured the Mikvah ("kiving water"), the ritual bath used for cleansing. It was remarkably intact and it still collects rainwater as it did when constructed.

      We toured the museum on the grounds of the old Jewish Cemetery that no longer exists. The medieval buildings on Kleine Pfaffengasse (Old Jewish Lane) were destroyed by the great fire in 1689.

      After the Jewish community in Speyer was destroyed, the cemetery headstones were used as building materials. The markers of those who had passed now became part of walls, bridges and private homes.

      Today abut 50 of the headstones have resurfaced, and they richly describe in Hebrew the lives of those who passed.

      The desecration of the headstones bothered me deeply. I imagined the markers of beloved family members and friends disappearing with the recollection of their existence.

      I was very moved by the museum and grounds. In a world that seems so fractured today, I'm reminded that most of the divisions are contrived narratives designed to ignore our commonalities and to instead make us fear and, at our worst, hate each other. It was a good reminder that we can do better despite different cultures and belief systems.

      As we walked back to the boat in time for our next stop, we saw a family walking together. One of the children called out "Opa" to her apparent grandfather. It was a reminder how much we treasure the opportunity as grandfathers and to witness Olive's love for her Opa. There is nothing better.

      As our boat departed we enjoyed a delightful lunch chat with a couple in their 80's. We talked about world travel, politics and history.

      We pulled into Rudesheim this evening, and after dinner, we took a stroll into the city for a preview. We really enjoyed a walk along the river to the city center, and we stopped for a drink. A former high school classmate recommended that I try Rudesheimer Kaffe which reminds me a bit of an Irish coffee except the coffee is spiked with a local cognac instead. I can attest that tree caffeine is more effective than the sedating effects of the alcohol as I wrap this post at 2:30 a.m. We look forward to our return to town tomorrow morning.

      Guten Nacht!
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      Glad you are learning all of the history there… [Eddie Westerman]

      5/30/22Reply
      Traveler

      It was really powerful.

      5/30/22Reply
       
    • Day6

      Etappe 6 Mainz-Boppard (74 Km)

      August 16 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Diese Morgenstimmung ist so schön. Wenn es ein heisser und Trockner Tag wird ( wie wahrscheinlich Heute das letzte Mal), lohnt es sich früh aufzustehen. Nicht nur weil es kühl ist aber auch wegen der speziellen Stimmung und das schöne Licht.Read more

      Traveler

      Mooi!

      8/16/22Reply
      Traveler

      😉

      8/16/22Reply
       
    • Day2

      Bingen

      June 13 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Lundi, 13 juin 2022
       
      Plusieurs orages ont rythmé notre nuit, mais n'ont point fait de dégâts. L'air s'est rafraîchit un peu et nous continuons notre route en direction Nord, côté “France “ jusqu'à Lauterbourg et suivons ensuite la Deutsche Weinstrasse pour retrouver le Rhin à Bingen, patrie de ma Sainte Patronne Hildegard. Nous voulons nous garer sur une place qui ne doit plus qu'exister dans nos souvenirs. Pas grave, nous prenons nos quartiers au bord de l'eau, juste en face de Rüdesheim. Le traffic est intense sur cette voie d'eau. Une marche au centre-ville nous dégourdit les jambes. Un endroit magique pour siroter une bière et un cocktail.  Read more

    • Day2

      Rüdensheim

      August 14, 2021 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      I'm back on the road at last. First stop is the Rhine Valley. Rüdensheim is one of two small, picturesque German towns along the river that I visited. (See also the post for Bacharach.).
      The pictures are all around the town. I've seen many pictures of towns in Germany that seem to have a certain character. I can now say first hand that the towns along the Rhine Valley do have that character.Read more

    • Day14

      Oct 3 - Cruising the Rhine

      October 3, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      This morning and the early afternoon are all about just looking. We sailed all night back up the Moselle to Koblenz and back onto the Rhine River. The Middle Rhine Valley was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. Here, the river forces itself into a narrow, winding valley where the scenery is spectacular with its ancient fortresses, many castles, tiny villages with half-timbered houses, jagged cliffs, old growth forests and hillside vineyards. We’re traveled this stretch three times now and it’s just as enchanting as it was the first time.

      After breakfast, we donned several layers and I added my trusty scarf, toque and gloves, and went to the top deck. We weren’t navigating under any low bridges so the back deck which sits three feet higher than the front deck was open. I walked three miles, around and around, but with ever-changing delightful scenery. Doug chatted with new friends.

      Kilometre 555 marks the location of the 430-ft. high cliff, known as at the Lorelei - it is one of the most famous sights of the Rhine Valley. The river narrows to just over 100 metres, and the treacherous currents and underground rocks have often caused ships to founder. Legend has us imagine the existence of a beautiful maiden sitting on the rock, combing her long hair and singing a sweet song that lures distracted sailors to their destruction. The modern bronze “Lorelei” statue near St. Goarshausen is from 1983.

      I retired inside after 3 hours because my phone battery was almost done - have used only my phone for photos on this trip. Doug had bailed earlier because he was cold. We continued to enjoy the fabulous views from the comfort of the lounge. Then I lost him - again. Found him in the gym working out. He may have been the first person to use that miniature gym on this cruise.

      About 2:00 p.m., the ship arrived in Rúdesheim, a town of 10,500 residents that plays host to over three million tourists per year. We are double-bunked again. We watched with amazement as the captain and his crew nudged the ship to within mere inches of the other ship without so much as the slightest bump. The crew ably hand loaded provisions onto the ship and garbage off the ship.

      More about the day in the next footprint.
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    • Day14

      Oct 3 - Rudesheim

      October 3, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      We left about 3:00 p.m. on a little tram car train to go the Seigfried’s Mechanisches Musikkabinett for a tour led by the effervescent Rita. This is a museum containing the world’s best collection of self-playing musical instruments - from tiny music boxes to street organ grinders to a huge “Mighty Wurlitzer” pumping out carnival calliope-type music at full volume. We have been to this museum before, but it’s easy to visit again. There is no other museum like it.

      We took the nearby cable car that skims over the vineyards and goes to the Niederwald Monument. Made of 32 tons of bronze, this 35-ft tall symbolic figure of “Germania” was completed in 1883 to commemorate the unification of 25 small states into the country of Germany in 1871. The sweeping views from the hill top gave us yet another look at the beautiful Rhine River.

      We came back down on the cable car (had to stand in line in light rain for 15 minutes) then checked out the great Christmas store and then Drosselgasse - one of Germany's best know streets. This street is only about 10 feet wide and is packed with wine-bars, restaurants and souvenir shops. From lunchtime onwards, it’s full of traditional music and songs that follow contain only one theme - "wine, women and song”.

      We walked back to the ship rather than wait for the tram. Had dinner with Jane and Phil again - lots more laughs. Tonight’s after dinner entertainment, in keeping with the party theme in Rüdesheim, was a traditional Germany folk music band - think oom-ph-pah - done with an accordion, a clarinet and and a trumpet. The band played for about an hour, and 5 minutes after they were off the ship, we set sail. Next destination - Mannheim.
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      Love the bells! Catherine

      10/10/19Reply
       
    • Day79

      Bingen

      July 13 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

      Bingen is right across from Ruedesheim. We took the car ferry over to catch the train on the right side of the river to get home.

      It was blazing hot, but it would have been cool if we had the time to see some of the places related to Hildegard of Bingen.Read more

      Traveler

      next time 🙂

      7/14/22Reply
       
    • Day119

      Tag 118 & 119

      September 18 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      -TAG 118-

      Möchten sie auch eine Traube?, fragt eines der kleinen Mädchen die mitgekommen ist um ihren Eltern beim Trauben lesen zu helfen. Immer mehr Leute kommen an die Hütte und bringen Grillzeug etc. Nach der Arbeit kommt das Vergnügen.

      Vorbei an einer der alten Stein Hütte, die sogenannten Wingerts-Häuschen. Sie dienten dem Winzer damals als Unterschlupf bei schlechtem Wetter, aber auch als Wassersammler. Das Wasser wurde für die "Spretzbröh" benötigt, die zur Schädlingsbekämpfung eingesetzt wurde.

      Ein persönlicher Erstfund direkt am Weg, über den ich mich freue. Ein Leberreischling. Die Konsistenz erinnert an ein saftiges Steak. Ein Schwächeparasit der Fäule im lebenden Holz erzeugt. Das Holz verfärbt sich dabei allmählich braunrot, obwohl der Pilz eigentlich ein Weißfäuleerzeuger ist. Als Forstschädling gilt er aber nicht, weil er nicht so oft vorkommt und für das Zerstörungswerk Jahrzehnte benötigt.

      Mit etwa 860 Einwohnern ist Kaub die kleinste Stadt in Rheinland Pfalz. Interessante Atmosphäre, wenn man so durch die kleinen Gassen schlängelt. Touristen wird auch einiges geboten.

      Da hat wohl jemand seinen Schlafsack vergessen. Vor einer gemütlichen Höhle liegt nähmlich einer.

      Vom Mittelrheintal geht's durch das Tor zum Rheingau zu einer kleinen Bude mitten im Wald. Die Grenzhütte, leider ein bisschen zu spät, denn sie ist schon geschlossen.

      Jemand schon mal einen Weinautomaten gesehen? Schon der dritte der heute auf dem Weg ist. Personalausweis durchschieben, dann öffnet sich die Box. Bezahlt werden kann auf verschiedene Art und Weise.

      Die Idee für den Abend. An einer Burgruine meine Hängematte aufhängen. Doch ein Bauzaun steht davor. Kein unüberwindbares Hinderniss, aber ich lasse es lieber und laufe weiter bis zur nächsten Schutzhütte.

      -TAG 119-

      Die Hexenküche, oder einfach ein Tisch mit verschiedenen Produkten wie Marmelade und Sirup, stehen an einer Schutzhütte herum. Nix für mich dabei. Aber nett.

      Ein Fuchs, der sich nicht aus der Ruhe lassen bringt, dient mir unterwegs als Foto Motiv.

      Nach fast neun Tagen, 251 Kilometern + einigen Umwegen zu Supermärkten, verlasse ich den Rheinsteig in Assmannshausen und laufe ein paar Kilometer direkt am Rhein, neben der Straße, auf einem Fahrradweg bis nach Rüdesheim entlang.

      Auf einem Schild steht "dieser Weg führt nicht nach Rüdesheim". Na das wollen wir doch mal sehen. Zur Not geht's über die Steinpackung direkt am Ufer. Auf meiner Karte sieht es nähmlich so aus als ob er genau dahin führt. Das tut er auch, nur die letzten 200m sind nicht fertig, ist aber kein Problem.

      Das ist der teuerste Fahrradweg des Landes.
      Ganze 64 Millionen Euro für 5,5 Kilometer Strecke
      Der Radweg führt von der hessisch-rheinland-pfälzischen Landesgrenze bei Lorchhausen nach Rüdesheim. Im Dezember 2006 war der erste "symbolische "Spatenstich. Die Gesamtbauzeit sollte acht Jahre dauern.
      Wenn die letzten Meter einmal geschafft sind, wird der Radweg nach Angaben des Bundesverkehrsministeriums 115 Millionen Euro, für insgesamt 11,3 Km gekostet haben. Hahaha 😅

      Ein Schnitzel mit Pommes gibt es nach der Überfahrt mit der Fähre über den Rhein nach Bingen.

      Eine Fahrradfahrerin mit vielen Fahrradtaschen kommt mir entgegen. Ob sie eine lange Tour macht, ist meine Frage. So lerne ich Annabelle kennen, die in Barcelona gestartet und auch schon länger unterwegs ist. Sie macht ein Interview mit mir und stellt mir Fragen über meine Beziehung zur Natur. Ihr Projekt "Mano de obra" befasst sich mit den verschiedenen Perspektiven der Menschen zur Natur. Wenn ich das richtig verstanden habe, setzt sie die Ergebnisse dann auf eine künstlerische Art und Weise um. Hat mich sehr gefreut sie zu treffen!

      Website zum Projekt:

      https://annabelleguimond.wordpress.com/
      https://www.instagram.com/_manodeobra_/
      https://www.instagram.com/annabelleguimondartiste/

      Um etwa 18 Uhr wird in der Jugendherberge eingecheckt um dort die Nacht zu verbringen, den weiteren Wegverlauf zu planen und vorallem die Powerbank mal wieder voll aufzuladen. Schönes Zimmer mit Bad, so ein Luxus!

      Liebe Grüße, Gena
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    • Day20

      Siegfred's Mechanical Music Instruments

      July 8, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      The largest collection of working mechanical music instruments and cabinets in the world. Some instruments are 300+ years old. Siegfried started the collection and still lives at the museum even though nearly 90 yo. Quite extraordinary. Just a few featured in these pics...they played about 20 for us, some not exactly perfect, but incredibly engaging nonetheless. There's not a digital control in the place, everything is purely mechanical.Read more

      Richard n Sheila Travels

      Fitting look for the museum ...

      9/4/16Reply
      Richard n Sheila Travels

      Not only a pianola, but a string octet as well, plus percussion in there somewhere too! All run from thatscroll of paper centre front. The circular band at centre of violins is the "bow", and spins faster and slower for effect. The violins themselves move outward to touch the bow to play each note, which is determined by the little metal fingers on each violin. Curved cabinet doors close over the violins when not playing. Crikey!

      9/4/16Reply
      Richard n Sheila Travels

      There's pretty much a whole orchestra in this one. Again, controlled only by that roll of perforated paper...

      9/4/16Reply
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    • Day4

      Day 5 Rudesheim

      September 3, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Visited the Marksburg castle this morning. Very interesting. Back on ship for lunch. Had lunch on the sun deck. Domenique, our program director, then gave us comments on the history and statistics of each portion of this part of the Rheine as we cruised south. Docked in Rudesheim. Walked through the town area. Had dinner in town. Wiener schnitzel and apple strudel with Rudesheim coffee to follow. Great day.Read more

      Traveler

      Miss you! What is on the pedestals?

      9/3/17Reply
      Traveler

      Seriously who was the designer of that uniform

      9/3/17Reply
      Traveler

      Glad you're having such a good time. I'm enjoying the pictures.

      9/5/17Reply
      Traveler

      Looks like you are enjoying your trip! Beautiful pink dishes!

      9/5/17Reply
       

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    Bingen am Rhein

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