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Camino Del Norte to Santiago
  • Hiker Holly
  • Hiker Holly

Camino Del Norte to Santiago

A 38-day adventure by Hiker Holly Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 28, 2023
  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly
    3

    Still in Madrid

    August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    After all theI’ fun’ at the beginning of the trip. We board the plane in Philly. 2 hours later we take off! Tammy is in lush first class a glass of wine with in minutes of boarding and a sleep pod.. But hey I got a sleep mask, and a pillow. and water then wine 3 hours later when we were at 10000 ft. 😃.
    We walked a bit of Madrid. My phone died. Totally on me, but a cascade of issues began! And after we arrived at the Airport, I missed the flight. Tammy barely made the flight we were supposed to be on! She even valiantly held the flight for me. No kidding!!!
    Ah, but I was in the most super slow line in the entire universe, there was a song a drug issue that took a half hour. I get it. And families of 5 and 6 ahead of me. Multiple languages, so was impressed! I was also stressed. ……. So I am still in Madrid!
    Tammy’s flight / out flight left and wouldn’t you know it…. That fight was redirected to Bilbao,, Spain. Then more fun for Tammy…..a long Bus ride back to our destination, San Sebastián.
    Mean while, security took my trekking poles ( dangerous weapons) ….(.long story that has nothing to do with me being directionally challenged while trying to catch the same plane as Tammy.🤣🤣.. My trekkers have been pole-napped!!
    In the end I had to get a VERY reasonably priced last minute room. I wasa but concerned actually…. It turned out Ok!!😎. See photos
    Now Tammy’s phone has died. She is on a bus to San Sebastián.
    The Saga continues……..    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    San Sebastián

    September 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    No glitches! Going to mail the luggage to the end stop. Going to head out!! Well, after buying new trekking poles and meeting up with Tammy . 👍
    Finally met up with Natalie! 😊. After she walked 38km, got unpacked,we all showered and headed back into the center of town. And it is an amazing warm feeling city.
    We had amazing Tapas, not like the tapas in the states- these are life changing!! Some wine-duh. then to bed.
    Up and out by 8:30am.-ish. We waited got a breakfast as the forecast called for rain. ☔️
    We left San Sebastián this morning around 8:45am. By 10am we had climbed 850ft up. Then thunder, lightning and RAIN have us wet, wet, wet. 10:10am. We are under the cover of a garage overhang hoping the rain will cease. Because, if we walk in the rain we will get blisters that will stick with us the whole trip.
    Just checked the weather 90-70%rain ALL day. This might mean a cab to the next town.
    The owner of the garage popped his head out and saw us. We asked about a cab or bus. No taxi. Bus wouldn’t work out either. Maybe a train?
    Someone’s sweet husband decided to drive us on his Saturday off in driving rain the 20 minutes to where we are staying!!! Some people 😇😇😇.
    We changed. Our shoes may not be dry by tomorrow! 😩
    In the bright side- We found an amazing place that has /is a Caffe ( coffee shop) ,gastronomica ( great food) and gin bar) . Starbucks could learn!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Zarautz, Spain

    September 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    Letting our gear our dry out and ‘ licking our wounds’. after another disappointment at great place a half a block from our nice Hostel.
    Thankful we weren’t in the tight steep ravine what the clouds opened up. All I could think of in between heavy breathes was- please no flash floods!!!
    Then we stood under the garage over hang. Natalie who is unstoppable carried on. Tammy and I got a lift from someone who must be the best hubby ever! Communication was difficult as he was speaking Basque Spanish, I was using really poor Mexican Spanish. ‘Best hubby’ had the patience to translate/make communication possible.
    Tammy has mentioned that it is considered a very good deed to help a Pilgrim on the Camino.    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Deba

    September 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    This morning’s sunrise was wonderful! Then it was Up, up, up through what felt like creek beds. And just to make it really fun steps are thrown in. 60 to 80. Mud! I almost lost a shoe.
    Then down, down, down. Warm!
    We stayed at an Alburgue but 80 people. We were in a room with 16. Snoring, hot air, someone’s car alarm all night, trash pick up at 2am. Haha    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Markina,Spain

    September 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 84 °F

    We stayed dry today, but the climb was leathal!! The ups were way up and the downs muddy and super steep! Poles are my new best friend!!
    No rain. But wonderful breezes! It was muggy! So the breezes were much appreciated ‘. At the high point of some sections the wind was so strong we were glad we had poles to keep our balance. And poles were essential on the muddy downhills. A Tammy commented a speed would’ve worked
    No place to stop and eat in this part of the Camino. We had a 5 minute and a 15 minute break. We are sore and tired.👍
    Meeting amazing folks from different countries: Holland, Spanish/Mexican/Canadian, French, etc. stories and conversation. 😊👍
    Then dinner. The second plate….,I could eat everything!! And did!’ YUM!!9    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Pozueta,Spain

    September 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Where to begin!? For a part, it was just like in the description it was Rolling hills, vistas and countryside! . Really enjoyable……compared to yesterday. And for a large portion..
    The lovely rolling hills however, were climbs up 150m to 250m in a very short distance. The rolling part is more the portion they were referring to as ‘flat’. But it was lovely. It was also 93 degrees!
    First thing - 450m up in 4.5km at 7:30am. But that was OK because then we went down 150m in 2 inches of mud.
    NO PROBLEM! 😂.
    We were moving down a hill of mud ( there are no photos as that would caused a fall ) Then just as Natalie from Belgium said, “no one fall in the mud” and a gal from Texas fell and slid 2ft. Her back pack got the most of the mud.
    Luckily today there were villages every 5-10km to stop, have a caffe, sparking water, cake( for those who can) then 20 minutes later head out!
    As the day goes on the breaks also include taking shoes off, along with one pair of the two pair of socks we wear , so the feet get some air and perhaps dry out ( from body heat) agai also it gives one’s feet a rest so we can tackle the next hill. And there is ALWAYS ‘more up’.
    Rolling hills, mind you , refers to a drive through rolling hills, in some areas,…..in my opinion.
    As we head up, in am using poles to help propel me up. I am breathing heavily and not looking up to see how far. …… It’s better that way. We or I mentally cheer when we hit a short stretch of flat…. Or relatively first waking…. Maybe it’s just me, barely breathing and’ shouting’ hurray’ between gasps.
    By the end of a 25-31km day My feet hurt, the muscles, the bones, all parts hurt. I need a shower so badly it’s ridiculous, and I don’t normally sweat!. And the need of a shower starts writing an hour of walking.
    Then there are the solo conversations/ self reflections which are intriguing. I am resolving conflicts I didn’t even know I had to deal with.
    As Natalie will say, “ It is good”. (Use a French accent)
    Loving this experience!!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Bilbao,Spain

    September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We made it!! More after a glass of wine. Gracias Dios! 28km Toast
    In Bilbao. Showered. Clothes drying. Wine and then the Gugenheim museum?
    Tired. Hungry and done in.
    Happy!!
    Ah, but not done yet! We visited the Gugenheim Museum, then had dinner. It’s 9:45pm more I am Done!Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Portugaleta,Spain

    September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    First leaving Bilbao and the Guggenheim museum. The route was all urban/ industrial. 😔. Some big string guys from New Zealand decided to taxi out of town. It was boring. The river view and breeze saved the travel.
    . Very hot as we were walking on asphalt. But one 20km today. Easy! This from the gal who always said she didn’t like hiking!
    Not many places to stop….we found one place to stop, hurray!! 13km out.! Shoes off, Socks off. Ahhhh!
    We missed a turn at a bridge/ferry more like a gondola that takes cars, bikes and pedestrians across the river. 2 of us missed this turn and walked 2.9km along the bay.
    Beaches were amazing!!! We ended up in Getxo. . Absolutely, worth the mistake!! Photos don’t do it justice.. The full 5km+ round trip when hot and sweaty wasn’t the best, but worth it to me. Besides, we were already there!
    Some have been concerned over what I can eat.
    Fresh orange juice, sometimes ledge de Avena and Cola cao- steamed oat milk and chocolate. ( sometimes 2) 😃👍. Bananas, and fruit. Sparkling waters. Water in my pack. Not hungry when walking the Camino until we stop each day. .
    I take apart sandwiches and eat the fillings. Often 2 pintxos ( amazing small sandwiches that are their ‘fast food’😃)
    I can eat at dinner and have no pride about servings. The god here is great! especially the communal diners at an Alburgue with all the other guests. Fun meeting finds from so many different countries!
    And all my vitamins. I feel great!
    Time for a shower and to hand wash clothes.
    ***
    I had a bite to eat:
    Something I want to mention is that sometimes going up a very steep climb or a steep down ( especially in mud) one can only think of the next foot step and plow pole plant. If there is a moment- Getting to the destination. A shower, clean clothes ( because every inch of you is sweat!) water, lots of water ( even though you’ve had lots).
    Other times - you realize some issues just don’t matter. No matter how big! I shared with my husband,, Ron, that a big issue for me with another person is starting to fall away. It feels trivial right now.
    Ron said I must be delirious. 😂
    Some side fun. I ventured out in a town I don’t know…. got a bite so I can last until dinner and got caught in a rain storm to beat most Seattle down pours AND found my way back to the Hostel! Pats on the back for me! One who can’t find her way out of a paper bag. 🤣. I am drenched in 3 blocks!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Castro-Urdiales,Spain

    September 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    27km today. Started in an Alburgue with 8 other people. Some people we have seen on the Way.
    Like Lethia( US CITIZEN-Mexican/Spanish parents ). She was a roommate one night. We have run into her often. She has helped in ways we didn’t absorb at first. Apps. That have kept us from taking a wrong turn ( possible 5km mistakes X return) and more…. To tired to recall. 🤪
    As we Portugalete we walked beside freeways then along ( literally beside) highways was not perfect but the vistas were amazing! The walk was correctly described as mostly rolling hills was an accurate description! Actually railroad grade this time! There were 200 stairs, a few steep inclines and downhill ventures. But a breeze compared to the first week. Also, some confusing signage.
    We did find a hidden away place to eat lunch with an astounding view. ( not always something we get-often it’s a quick caffe/coffee and onward. For me a banana and sparkling water)
    Wait! Let’s go back to Portugalete-last evening. Of my two travelers- one hadn’t slept a wink due to finding bed bugs at 2am and sleeping in the reception area couch. The other
    was also exhausted. I for some strange reason had to go get something to ea at 5:30pm😃. I ( who can’t fund my way out of a paper bag). Decided to return to where we had had a glass of wine so I could order Pintxo ( small sandwiches ) in order to take it apart as I can’t eat the bread or cheese. Everything was closed until 7pm. Most 8pm. I looked up other restaurants, etc. as I was very hungry.. S I have up a few drops of rain fell. And then the rain came flooding down. The locals were under over hangs out in doorways. I sheltered also. After a few minutes I thought I sound just head back as ( amazing I could tell) the Alburgue was 3 blocks away. And it was 93 degrees. I hugged buildings. Actually thought twice before crossing the final street as It looked like it could possibly take my footing. As I hit the door which needs a door code -more time in drenching rain, etc . Tammy was peaking out door wondering if I was alone and scared under a bridge somewhere out of the rain. 😄
    Back to today- I added a few more km on to my trip as I volunteered to find a laundromat for our really sweaty clothes.
    The lavandaria all directed me to is closed. 😩. So sweaty clothes will be traveling tomorrow. Not on us. 🤣
    We are in Castro for the evening then on to Laredo.
    Castro is a small coastal town that is so clean, welcoming and beautiful with wonderful people! It should be on a bucket list!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Portugalete,Spain

    September 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    It was all urban. Very hot. This is a normal Cafe/cafeteria for them. Everything from coffee/latte and food to a drink and food.
    Guggenheim museum in the morning and off along the river.
    Some breezes off the river. We stopped at 13km to take shoes off ( daily bliss) and one pair of socks- no blisters yet! Then on to Potugalete
    Two of us missed turn for a bridge/ferry more like a gondola that takes cars, bikes and pedestrians across the river. And walked on 2.9km to Getxo. Absolutely beautiful and worth the mistake! Photos don’t do it justice. The beach was huge and gorgeous! The building architecture stunning!
    Ok clothes are hanging to dry. Time to have a glass of wine and water then find food.    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Laredo, Spain

    September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    10 hours, 33km Beauty, technical, ups and downs ( of course) . And did I say 10 hours?
    Some side notes: 2 glasses of 1.20€ for both. Food, places to stay all under 100 €/day.
    As we left the sunrise was amazing! We were already drenched 89 to 93 degrees depending on is there was shade and OH, or a blessed breeze! Poles, breezes and Caffee stops are my new best friends!! 10- 15 minutes I’d ask one needs to keep on track to arrive at your Alburgue.
    The walk along the coast everything worth getting going early for. Which by the way we almost missed. We dashed out after my auto 7am alarm went off as we had planned a 7:15am departure. Never have gotten up and out SO fast!
    The cattle seem to all wear bells in some fields. It can sound like a symphony of bells.
    We walked by one residential yard in the many villages we pass through and all the chickens came running toward us to ‘greet’ us/ hope for food? Then they just hung out. The rooster was not impressed.
    We hiked up 250m late in the 10 hour day and to be certain we were alert, Mother Nature put sliced rocks imbedded in the twisted trail. Trip hazards to keep us in our toes!!! No photos, the area was too technical.
    Tonight a good meal!! Perhaps, more photos of food. 😂
    Tomorrow, only 21km to Guemes. Treating our arrives to private rooms, Queen size bed, no bed bugs, pool, etc. 65£ per person and a short day!! Going to love it!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Guemes

    September 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    A photo of our night sleeping arrangements. So special and happy to have them at the end of another 30km day. Some of us don’t have ac dryer for laundry. 😉.
    We walked the town out then to a Ferry . A walk on boat that only crosses about 10 minutes then let’s you off. in another town. Beautiful!
    The first challenge of the day was the hike up a narrow bushy beach climb with rocks, roots and rocks to climb over and walk through. I could stop and take photos because of our real challenge.
    The group of 11 folks ahead that were taking this as if it were a line at a grocery store. Every step and turn was one person at a time with a line up!! No flow. Take a step and wait!!
    They wouldn’t let us try because they said were old!! They’ve were mostly younger than me. They were a few that shouldn’t of even been on that trail. . They were dressed in sandals, not necessarily for hiking. The women had her toes freshly done. Nobody was using poles, but a few. They mostly likely thought it was a walk on the beach.
    We had had a gentleman at a cafe warn us it was peligroso ( dangerous) and cuidado ( take care) and warned us the sand would fall away.
    . I don’t think this group of 12 knew what they had gotten into. It was scary to watch them try and maneuver.
    Some local that jam up this daily just passed the group with a quick ‘Pardon’ That broke the damn! We finally got past them. They may still be working they way down.
    If one of them doesn’t have a twisted ankle or a scrap I will be surprised!
    Then we walked about 5-7 miles on the beach Women and men often bath nude. But to walk right by a couple of gentlemen with their ‘bits’ tanning is a shock to us puritanical States side folk. 😎. We did take s break. Such s view!!
    Then onto another 11km Lovely fields and hot roads for the rest of the day.
    We are each staying in a sublime 65€/night room with a queen bed! No bunkbeds tonight!! I took a shower knowing there was no one else waiting to shower. I can go downstairs and have a gal do laundry, not take my dirty laundry 3 blocks away then run a timer while we try to relax with a glass of wine and run between wash cycle and dryer cycle.
    I have died and gone to heaven!
    Oh, there is a bar/restaurant here that has steak 🥩! Tammy and I are so excited!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Santander, Spain

    September 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Today was only a 20km day! It feels like a day off!
    Our walk- Wonderful! Beach view that we saw for hours and never got enough! Another long walk on the beach.
    Yes, more jinglely bits. A middle aged+ couple arrived, shed their bother-some suits and jumped in. Such freedom!
    We have found where all those lovely grasses with the white plume comes from. We walked through a ‘forest’ of them! The mother load!!
    Then another ferry to cross to Santander, Spain.
    A quick bite and glass of wine with Natalie as she must return home to Belgium today in a few hours.
    Then off to the bus station to buy bus tickets. In order to catch our plane on the 4th AND see some of Santiago de Compostela we must leave a two 30km days not walked. That still leaves a bit less then 600km to go.
    Bus tickets purchased we headed for a cathedral. 7 blocks along, a young man was following us speaking Spanish to me, pointing at his phone. No I didn’t know where he could charge his phone. I don’t speak Spanish. The young man went on pointing at the charging end of his phone. I really tried to ‘blow him off’. He pressed on looking very frustrated.
    Natalie said she remembered him from the bus station. We should stop and find out what’s going on.
    A young women stopped in to explain in English that one of us had left their phone at the ticket office and he had turned it in to the ticket lady. ME! My phone!
    I felt horrible!! I thanked him and thanked him!
    What an angel!!! As we rushed back to get my phone which was right with the ticket lady. Tammy mentioned that if I had quit speaking Spanish to him it might have gone better.
    Geez!!! I lose my phone. I am unaware of what language I am speaking. Natalie has been calling me ‘Lost Holly’ in her French Belgium accent. I am definitely in the first stages of a El Camino break down. I am losing it!! Only 11 days in.
    And we are a bit sad. Natalie left for her flight.
    She is a directional genius and so funny! Great stores, wonderful personality. I miss her already. Safe flight Natalie! Hugs
    ……and then we had to move rooms due to a leak in the roof….. grab your back packs, documents and chargers….. make a new bed. - mine is a top bunk of course! Cool down this room with an open windows and good night!. Sleep tight..    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Llanes, Spain

    September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Like a tourist’s day. We walked all around the city. But no Camino walking this day. Every street was amazing. It’s definitely a place I recommend. Not too buzy.. A tourist town with great shops with just the right amount of people!! We stopped at a chocolateria. The cup of chocolate was amazing! I couldn’t finish it because it was almost 70%chocolate and a bit of ‘milk’ I can drink. Had my chocolate fix but at least 2 weeks!
    We had had a large lunch. We stopped for a glass of wine at 7pm and laughed until 9pm. Total tourist day!!
    A great day!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Ribadesella , Spain

    September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    34km day. The temp. Only in the 70’s. Rolling hills! The best day! UNTIL, we weren’t consuming water as normal because we weren’t melting: sweating like crazy! Our muscles hurt, joints hurt, etc. What total losers!
    Water! Water! Water!
    This town is unimpressive thus far. We will try to use rose colored lenses and pick the best views.
    We DO have a room to our selves tonight! Whoop! Whoop!!. Our own shower and toilet! The lap of luxury that us. All for €33.27.
    We are such big spenders!
    BTW We just paid $2.75 for wine. EACH! That’s outrageous !! That’s the most we have paid. We aren’t coming back here again!
    ****I think of you all each day! Hugs
    Loving this!!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Colunga,Spain

    September 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    It felt so easy!! 20km day - cool breezes, dappled shade; dirt roads, dirt paths, rocky paths. More sea views and beaches and more beaches! Up meadows full of cows. Watch your step!!
    It’s cooler 72 degrees and high clouds over head so not many folks on the beach. We are remembering our water!
    We did come across a Korean group fully covered in sun protective clothing, hats and masks. To me they looked SO hot. But, gosh, were they fast! They passed us with such fresh enthusiasm while we were dragging in our 4 and 5th hours of hiking . We would lose them. Run across them again. Fast! Fast! Fast!
    Then we saw the BUS. Some of the group would pop out of the bus at designated stops on side roads.
    As they were all dressed, masked up, hats and neutral or dark clothing we didn’t realize one group was switching out for another! We were always running into a group with fresh legs that was only going a mile or so.
    Switching topics: In La Vega we came across wood structures set high above the ground. These are used for grains, corn, etc. The slabs they rested on were to keep the rodents from getting up and into the food stores. I imagine a big storm of the very nearby coast and high waters could be an issue, also. La Vega had more Horreo’s then we had seen. The history!
    A yard we walked by had hand painted signs representing pilgrims from so many places and country’s.
    Just something to make one smile while walking behind our only Camino commute issue. The bus group, which we again came upon took photos of everything and were difficult to get around. Yes, a group off loaded in the next town we were walking through.
    Very sweet. They seem to really enjoy being able to greet us with “Buen Camino” which is the norm. And then giggle a bit. Adorable!
    Then seemingly wanting all of us to ‘cue up’. and go single file was less adorable. We just had to blow through while smiling and wishing them ‘Buen Camino’
    We have arrived at Colunga. Tammy scored again! High five. We have a private ( for the 2 of us) room , enormous bathroom 56.93€ or $66.70 for the night! They offer a complete breakfast and they have GF and DF for me. The proprietress is GF also so was very careful when making notes.
    We have another 20km day which feels again so easy after the 30+km days we’ve had. There are also no ‘mountains’ to cross. Tomorrow however, there will be no stops/coffee shops until we get to our next stop Villaviciosa,Spain. Full bellies for us and a banana and lots of water in our packs!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Villaviciosa,Spain

    September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    An ‘easy’ 17km day before tomorrow . 30km into Gijon, We were commenting on having lame posts/blogs. Perhaps we needed a challenge to write about. No sooner did we say that and the skies opened up. Rain!! Rain ponchos came out. Cover the backpacks!!
    And it rained so hard we took refuge under a tree. Be careful what you ask for!
    We walked in the rain ( not too long) and on fairly gentle terrain for the most part….( especially as compared to the first 11 days)
    I had time to think, not just focus on breaths, next steps and getting to food or eating from our packs…. and the end goal for the day a place to stay.
    What has the Camino taught me so far: how high I can climb, how hot, sweaty wet, tired, and hungry, I can get. I hate hills you’ve all heard me say that. And yet we are happy getting up each morning to climb up always up ( well some down of course) to see what one can’t see in a car. To interact with folks from Germany, New Zealand, Australia, Korea, France, Spain, 🇧🇪 Belgium, of course ( Natalie) and more. To see the small villages and architecture there that you won’t see on the main roads. The feel of old Spain. I wouldn’t miss it!
    I also thought about blisters- we have come upon many pilgrims with blisters, bandaged feet, some who have gone barefoot or switched to sandals to walk great distances. Some folks who have to go home, take a day or days off just to heal. Due to my fearless leader’s experience ( Tammy). we have zero blisters. Each day, that is worth celebrating!
    Tonight we are again in a private (shared room) with a great bathroom. The laundry is across the street. A engaging Sideria ( cider house, which they are known for) and restaurant is down a block. AND there is a fan in the room!!! It’s amazing the little things that make your day on the Camino.
    Back to the Sideria! The proprietress pours without looking until it first hits the glass. She makes it. Runs the restaurant. Pours every individual glass of cider. And you drink it immediately out the bubbles leave. Look 👀. You can see how there are here bubbles do disappear. Jk. One does need to drink each small pour. Apparently, they don’t use the carbonation (fake?) system we do. She pours. They are bubbles. Drink fast or the bubbles are gone.
    ***This is another great find of a place to stay. High five Tammy!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Gijon. Spain

    September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Still in Cider Country. This morning we left At 6:30am to beat the heat. That meant, no breakfast. We had bread, ham nuts, banana, water, chocolate, more water packed. Because, of course this was a 30 km day. And of course, yet again, we have no places to stop. . Last time as you may recall, we arrived after 30km, aching everywhere as we hadn’t stopped and hadn’t had enough water or food.
    This time, we were focused and did arrive in good shape after 8 hours for 30km. We decided to set timers for water, at first. Later got timers set up for food! After crossing one pass, then a second smaller pass we were beginning to feeling it.
    We stopped. Shoes off, one pair of socks and half of the toed socks and just rested on a shady lawn along the road. We were only 6-7 miles away from our place we were staying but the cities can be confusing.
    We have learned that means 45 minutes of walking especially, when you are dragging. You just want to get there. Shower, wash clothes and after a glass of wine and a snack. Just decompress!
    We had a few snags tonight. Nice hotel ($46,34:/each… Spain is so fun with prices!).
    But the closest laundry was about a mile way. This is after waliking two 30km this week. The HECK with walking a another mile!! We decided to hand wash and dry our clothes on our balcony.😳😃
    Only to find (when asking about a dryer after we had hand our washed,our laundry…. Hanging laundry is definitely NOT allowed at this nice hotel. . Oops! Sorry!
    But we are so bad …. So sorry however, my undies, socks, bra, pants etc are hanging from this very nice hotel on the Plaza Mayor. Hahaha ( Joanne, you can’t take me anywhere . 😂)
    Back to the day: Today was to be a walk in the park with a ‘bit of a climb.
    We started out in the dark with street lights lighting our way, then the city ran out. Before the sun came out we were using my cell phone for lighting, We almost tripped over a dead black cat, does that count? We didn’t cross it’s path…
    We climbed some good climbs today. Walked in rain, sweated in sun, on hills. We were thankful for dappled shaded, cool breezes.. any breezes and any shade!
    We walked roads, dirt trails, mud and rock trails, grassy fields and then did it over again. Thankful for the warmth of sun in the morning, Thankfull for finding the SHELLS and ARROWS as we leave a city in the morning as they are not well marked.
    I have input photos of the terrain. The nasty parts I can’t photograph as I am focused on not falling on my face or my rump.
    We did of course, drum roll please, come upon the beach AGAIN! Big surprise, I know.
    We climbed what they call a Mountain pass and walked beaches. I will never get tired of the beaches. No apologizes for the unending beach photos!
    Oh, my new favorite thing: Horrarios! They are antiquated, refreshed, and finally I saw a live in types!! I want one!!
    We are in Celtic cider country, check out the barrels! We had a great dinner! Photo of course.
    I am so tired… There is a photo of the church on the water. For the fishermen.
    Good night    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly
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    1

    Aviles, Spain

    September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    25km walk today. We started with a 6€ Buffet breakfast. They even had GF toast and lots of fruit and eggs. Great start!
    Walking out of Gijon takes quite awhile. We have left the beaches and are in the pastures and forests again. We had decent ups but mostly flat. And some industrial areas that just weren’t photo worthy, at all! And stinky. Uck!
    There were only one place to stop for coffee, water or food. So for the most part it was another banana, chocolate, almonds and water day.
    We have arrived in Avilas, Spain! We have enough energy to really walk around so we are off!!
    Apperantly, they don’t believe in serving drink without food here, we are being told, Hurray hungry us!
    No chips or simply some bread. We get bread with Jamon ( ham) or torte, in this case potatoes and eggs sliced from a pie shape. Great folks! Beautiful town. The architecture and the history just pull me in! This town just pulls at me.
    We slipped into an open church. and were enthralled by its art and presence. . I sat down and I got tears in my eyes actually, they were flowing., I had no idea where they were coming from…. something about this church just hit me.
    Tomorrow we are off to Muros de Nalon. 22km
    Up down, up down, I will try not to bore.
    Hope you are all well!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly
    1

    Muros de Nalon,Spain

    September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today was a rather introspective day. I may cover that, May not.
    22.8km flat or straight up and some decent descents.
    Heading out this morning looking for the Shells in town to mark the way. We came upon an open church. As we left the beautiful church a very nice man asked if we were in the Camino pointed us in the right direction with a ‘Buen Camino’ and a smile. Over these many days that has happened a wonderfully perfect times: a woman putting out trash or a clerk opening their shop have called out and given directions, pointing and gesturing or walking with us until they are happy they have set us in the right direction.
    Today we started out with rain and dirt/muddy roads. Then traveled in sun sun and on paved roads. We walked beside pastures and through villages. We can hear traffic at times. Sometimes we are on the road. At times no shoulders. Yikes!!
    We had 2 ‘caffee’ stops today. Each time they proprietress gave us our drinks then brought out cake, bread with meat, or bread with cheese etc. .Not a lot but apparently in this part of Spain you eat when you drink anything. I love it. I can’t eat it, but I love it! 😃
    We have ended at a spot for the night with a Horrio as its symbol. I am admittedly a ‘bit’ obsessed with these historical / still used family: household grain storages. I finally had to promise I would quit pointing out every single one. Tammy might have gagged me. 😂. So sorry for you- I re-entered a few photos in case you missed them.    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Soto de Luina,Spain

    September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    We had a lovely short 16.4km day. No major climbs but we were up and down all day. We started off with light fog. One gentlemen walking his warned us ’Cuidado’, be careful along this road. The fog cleared, we entered forested gravel or dirt roads and paths. Mostly shady, it was wonderful! This 72 degree day in the sun on asphalt was not wonderful we had climbed with that also. Where we needed to be careful was asking some of the village roads that are one car wide, no shoulder and rock walls on either side. When a car comes by you can touch it. So not my favorite part of the day.
    On another note:
    You would think on these ‘easier’ days we would be chatting all day. What occurs is you get into the rhythm of your own stride and then your own thoughts. You end up hanging out with yourself. I am not as boring to hang out with as I feared I would be. 🤣
    The adventure for the day: there are no laundromats on the map but this town. No one speaks English and we all know how bad I am at directions. Try it in another language.
    But this was simple ( all in Spanish, so a bit lost in absorption). Go to the Alburgue, then go right it’s there. Done! I went to the Alburgue took a right. Nothing! No laundromat. No shops. I wandered up another street that could’ve been the right she meant, still nothing. Long story short- it’s AT the Alburgue/hostel. It’s outside around the building. Just sitting on the slab of concrete. It didn’t have a spin cycle so our clothes even after being wrung out may never dry. 😊
    Switching topics-
    Ron, my husband, is watching weather for us as there is rain coming in on probably the worst day. Just as we enter Luarca,Spain, a lovely coastal village. Nuts!!
    I sent him the names of the towns we are in today and tomorrow. He can’t find them. Too small? They are pretty tini.
    Switching again-
    Thank Heaven for splitting room costs. We are in a $90.00/night hotel so for about $48 each we have a bathroom to ourselves, towels, a little balcony and and elevator for our tired legs. Ah, the things we don’t usually appreciate!!😃    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly

    Cadavedo,Spain

    September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    We had a breakfast before we left. Choices were toast, locally made butter, hard boiled eggs,. Prosciutto, kiwi, pastries, fresh squeezed orange juice. This is similar to what most places consider the included breakfast. Then caffe/ coffe and leche sin lactosa and Cola Coa/ dairy free hot chocolate (for me). Hey, we all have our vises. 😉
    19.15 km walk/Camino today to our place to stay. We started off with a choice:. Walk along the coast ( nearby not along) or up high in the mountains… No places to stop. No services.
    We took the ‘nearby the coast’ choice.
    19km and the equivalent of 135 flights of stairs climbed!! The description in our books was of dirt tracks and paved roads. (Watch out for cars! Fast and close). We wouldn’t let out kids walk on these roads. 😁.
    It ventured on to say the Camino ascends and descends a number of steep valley’s. Yep, it did - 7 hours of up and down, just to go right back up then immediately down. OK. I have finished my complaining,
    We just arrived in and I am waiting my turn for the shower. 👍😊 I am not first today, we take turns on ‘first or’ 😂.
    The upside was off today’s Camino was dappled shade on forested roads, trails, streams. And still no blisters!! Those end some folks trips.
    Challenges of the day: don’t get taken out by a car. Don’t trip over a root, then your out of play, Don’t fall into a stream = blisters! And there were many streams. And mud, so many deep, wide muddy sections in the mountain forests.
    There are always some delightful cute surprises. Flower pots that look like people, colored rocks that represent countries of Peregrino’s/ Pilgrims.
    I just finished and am out of the shower. Neither of us, and this is daily, want to touch our own wet sweaty clothes. 🤣
    In a bag they go and off to the laundry we go.. Clothes, cloth bag and all into the machine!
    I’ve made it to the cafe/restaurant to get a bite to eat. They were closing in 2 minutes. 😩
    One gal said sorry, ‘No’. The guy who checked is in said, ‘ Sure’. I thought he was making me a simple salad. I fished that taking my time. Thinking that this was all I would eat ( other then trail food) until 8pm. He now, brought out a Secundo. My second dish! Fried pork and what we call, French fries. Yes!! I will survive!!! 😊
    We are sitting outside in this coastal agricultural area. Neighbors are walking dogs. Passing by with smiles and big ‘hola’s/hello’s’. It’s broken clouds with a postage stamp view of an amazing shoreline. Delightful!
    Ingrid. a fellow Pilgrim, , just asked to join us at our table outside. Late 70’s in age?
    She even asked shared her train but walking the Camino . Ingrid broke her back a few years ago. To stern strengthen her back she walked a major trail in the Netherlands. It was a long trail the length of the Netherlands. iIt took 3 different trips on that trail. That worked!
    She then read about the Camino. She has been on 3-4 different Caminos, now. Her back is healed. She, now volunteers at Alburgues to help with staffing a few weeks at a time. Then travels home to the Netherlands and then Camino’s again!
    She just shared knowledge of some great places to see that we have added to our bucket do list! So…. NOT COMING HOME.
    Just kidding. 😁❤️
    This whole experience is just what this gal needs!! Thank you Ron for opening the door! Thank you, Abby for taking on extra.
    Thank you Ronny, MoMo, Cassidy and Marley for loving me……. and waiting for gifts.😂
    Post script: we just walked down the road to a view of the entire Spanish Asturian Coast, e are told. Stunning!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly
    11

    Luarca,Spain

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    Another 16km day. We walked through several small old villages. This was an fairly easy day except for the UP that took us from having walked the equivalent of 7 flights of stairs climbed for the day to 32 flights of stairs climbed within about 10 minutes.
    We have looked back to the beginning of the Camino Sept. 4th we climbed the equivalent of 139 flights during the day! Justifiable whinning, here!. 👍
    We are now in the town of Luarca, which we have yet to explore. Showers done. Laundry going!
    Rain coming down. We have ducked into a great ‘cafeteria’/Caffee which means you can get a latte, drink, wine, beer, topos,(premade simple sandwiches) etc.. Locals and travelers pop in during the day and visit.
    A side note- Having a caffee at an early morning hour and watching a pulled together local businessman have a short glass of wine early at the same hour is surprising. Cultural (?)
    Luarca is a win! Beautiful, friendly and quiet. . Although, my guess it is hopping during the season! Which I think we just missed.
    Again, glad to have a ‘slower’ day. We get one more then it’s back at it with more serious days. 😊 Enjoy the photos!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino Del Norte to SantiagoHiker Holly
    11

    Ribadeo, Spain

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    With rain in the forecast and time to watch so we have a few days in Santiago before our flight on Oct.4th we took a bus today and skipped 2 stages.
    Challenge of the day: The gal who sat in front of us talking on her phone full volume for an hour and a half. We wanted to cheer when she finally got off!
    Our goal was to get out to Playa de Catedrias/ Catheral Beach. It took a bit to figure out the buses. Dark clouds were rolling in as the bus arrived, late. We boarded to go 20 minutes out and the clouds opened up! The windshield wipers couldn’t keep up!! We had planned the day around this! Tammy and I laughed so hard we had tears in our eyes.
    As the bus neared the beach the clouds disappeared. The storm was over. We had smartly packed our rain ponchos and wore our trail shoes, as it had looked cold.
    Didn’t need the ponchos and within 5 minutes huge wave came far onto the beach and quickly soaked our shoes (which need to be dry to hike tomorrow). What can you do!? 😆
    Shoes and socks off we walked the beach. ( newspaper for our shoes on our list of todos when we returned today). 😆
    Only a number of folks are allowed on the beach at a time. Apparently, a large number of people. 😉. You need a ‘reservation’ to walk it. Thank you Tammy!!! Tammy jumped on her phone yesterday and booked for us.
    The beach, wasn’t crowded, busy or loud. The beach is soulfully inspiring. Walking it was so peaceful and a balm for the eyes.
    Tomorrow it’s back to reality and 28.6km. Goodbye to the cost and services for the day. Pack food! We are promised beautiful views for our efforts! 😃 next stop Lourenza’, Spain.    Read more

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