Italy
Panzano in Chianti

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    • Day 16

      Cycling through Chianti country, Day 1

      April 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      We arranged a two-day e-biking trip from Florence to Siena with “We Like Tuscany,” who provided a private guide and moved our luggage for us.

      Our guide, Frederica, has dual Canadian-Italian citizenship, and had spent the last three (COVID) years in Canada, so her English was excellent. She lives north of Florence (the hill town of Fiesole, which we e-biked to a couple of days ago). She is so knowledgeable about the Chianti Classico wine and olive oil production, and clearly passionate about the history of her region of Tuscany. She is taking sommelier classes, just to broaden her knowledge for guiding and whatever else may come along. We were pleasantly surprised to get such great information all along our ride, as we thought we were getting a bike route guide only.

      Our 30-mile first day took us above the city of Florence and onto small country roads through olive groves, vineyards, fava bean cover crops, small villages and landscapes dotted with cypress trees.

      We stopped for lunch at a small olive oil and wine producer’s farm. Our lunch featured some wine and olive oil tasting. There are many types of olives being grown here, and we had the option of tasting about six different single-variety oils and one blend. We found subtle differences in the varieties. I’m sure the Tuscans appreciate the nuances better than we did.

      For the most part, one type of grape is grown in this region—Sangiovese. Chianti Classico is made from no less than 80% Sangiovese, and around here, generally 100%. Chianti Classico is aged in vats of cement, which doesn’t impart additional flavors to the wine. We’ll be able to enjoy it again at home, as we had them ship us a case, as well as some olive oils.

      After a hearty traditional lunch (with wine!), we had to roll along and face the steepest hill of the day. E-bikes still require fairly strenuous pedaling, by the way.

      That climb took us to Montefioralle, which is thought to be the birthplace of Amerigo Vespucci. The village dates back to 1085 and is quiet and very charming. We left the bikes and strolled around a bit.

      Just as rain began to fall, we made it to our lodging for the night, a villa near Panzano. It was situated among the vineyards, with beautiful views. The villa was once the family (or multi-family) home of some famous artists dating from the 1200s. It’s been restored beautifully, in keeping with the period (but with very comfortable modern amenities!). We were very tired after our full day of riding, but a delicious dinner in the cellar of the villa (former kitchens?), restored us. It was a great first day!
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    • Day 29 - Chianti Region, Tuscany

      August 7, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Today we had told Alba, the BnB host, breakfast for 8.30am, we came down to find an arrangement of foods! The was cereal, cold cut meats, a lot of fruit, bread with home made jams, home made cakes & traditional bread Italians have. We finished what we could and the host was amazed we didn’t eat more… I later saw her dog and think it got the rest of the guests breakfasts! Alba is very nice to us and definitely would recommend her BnB.

      We went for a drive to Castello di Brolio, The first stones of Brolio Castle date back to the Middle Ages. The castle passed into the hands of the Ricasoli family thanks to an exchange of lands for which records can be found as early as 1141. Through the centuries the castle has suffered attack and destruction in numerous battles, from the Aragonese and Spanish assaults during the fifteenth century, to disputes in the seventeenth century, to the aerial bombings and rounds of artillery during the Second World War.
      The castle has been rebuilt and modified several times and today it bears the marks of the different eras: there are the fortified medieval bastions, Romanesque and neo-Gothic additions and unique nineteenth century Tuscan details. Brolio Castle towers over the Ricasoli company lands, the most extensive in the Chianti Classico area, that unfold with a continuous succession of colors and hues over gentle hills, velvety valleys and thick woodlands of oaks and chestnuts.
      The 1,200 hectares of property include 240 hectares of vineyards and 26 of olive groves, with entry ticket we got to try a wine each of their own. The castle is still in use by the family today, hence why you cannot go inside. We ended up buying a bottle of white wine to have on one of our cheap dinner nights, pizza and a bottle of wine… looking forward to it already!

      We then ventured to Gaiole in Chianti, a small village near our BnB, had a walk around the village and tried to find something easy and different for lunch. We opted to keep going to an area I stumbled upon while googling and this is why I think my talent in construction is wasted!
      We drove to Panzano in Chianti, a half hour drive from Gaiole, this is where we found the Cecchini Panini Truck. We both had the Panino Cecchini - basically a beef burger but it was amazing! This food truck sat on a lookout where you could eat and gaze out to the view, oh and did I mention vino was 2euro? No, well I was so happy to find this… Just upset I need to 0.05blood alcohol level like home!! Katie opted for water as they don’t do alot of White wine in this region.
      We had a walk around Panzano after lunch.
      From Panzano we moved to Greve in Chianti, this is the largest village in Chianti. We ended up moving on when there wasn’t a lot going on. So I got out my google maps and directed us to heaven, I mean Castellina in Chianti.
      At Castellina there is a gelato shop where you can watch them make the gelato, I may of shed a tear at not having this job! They are famous for their Pistachio sorbet & Basil & Lime sorbet. Katie got the Basil & Lime, & lemon as her second flavour, I got Mango, Berry, Melon.

      We decided to start to head back to our BnB, but we also wanted to do a wine tasting,=.. I wanted to do a tasting close to our BnB and just up the road is Cantalici Winery. Chianti is famous for their Chianti Classico wines, there is very strict rules in making Classico wine to get the Black Rooster label that signifies it’s a Chianti Classico wine. There is also only 7 areas that the grape can come from, all in Chianti of course.
      We explained Katie can’t drink red wines & they only had 2 white wines, the lovely lady gave me an extra red to try and we both got a dessert wine to try. We didn’t realise as I was thinking of booking a tasting, but seeing we were staying at a BnB close to the winery we get a tasting for free! So we brought the Rose to pair with another cheap dinner night and a special something to come home with us! We also learnt why we find the bread different here, Back in the day when the country was going through hard times and there was a lot of poverty, people would make bread without salt as they couldn’t afford salt. No when you ask for bread it’s normal t0 get unsalted bread and you have to ask for salted bread. I can say we came away learning a lot about the wines and the area from this tasting!

      Before dinner we had a bit of rest at the BnB, we had a truck come to the village and start tooting, I found out this is the local grocer on wheels - photo attached of me being nosy!

      Dinner we went to I’ll Bandito, the restaurant a 10minute walk from the BnB we tried to get into last night, we made a booking for 7.30pm just in case! We were sat outside with the view of vine yards and the farm houses, €2.50 house wine for the win tonight!
      Katie had the Tuscany sausage and I had the grilled chicken as Tuscany is well know for their anti pasta dishes… definitely lived up to it.

      We came back to the BnB to watch some Netflix on the iPad as we have a hefty drive ahead of us tomorrow, we will be breaking it up between a couple of villages i have planned though.
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    • Day 16

      Siena und Chianti Route eine Reise wert

      September 13, 2021 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Obwohl wir um 8 Uhr aufgestanden sind und unser Frühstück kurz gehalten haben, kamen wir erst nach 10 Uhr los. Ich wollte noch einen Kurzeinkauf bei Lidl in der Nähe machen, was sich als äußerst schwierig erwies. Extrem enger, kleiner Parkplatz und Walter wurde auch noch zugeparkt, obwohl er im Auto saß. 😥😳. war also ganz schön stressig.
      Aber irgendwie hat Walter alles geschafft und es ging mit dem Calli wieder onTour.
      Wir haben gelernt, dass es nur ein echter Chianti ist, wenn ein schwarzer Hahn ( Pollo negro) auf der Banderole ist. Die Landschaft ist wie im Bilderbuch, einfach traumhaft schön, so wie man es sich vorstellt. Klar haben wir Wein gekauft. Aber insgesamt nur 4 Flaschen Chianti, denn billig ist der Wein hier nicht. ( 8-10€ und natürlich aufwärts ohne Grenze )
      In Siena war, wie immer in den größeren Städten, die Suche nach einem geeigneten Parkplatz für unseren Calli das Problem. Walter hatte eigentlich schon aufgegeben, da fanden wir bei einer Tankstelle einen größeren Platz außerhalb der Stadt. Bei 31 Grad Hitze Nachmittags um 15 Uhr holten wir die Fahrräder runter verstauten alles und sicherten das Fahrzeug und schwangen uns in den Sattel. Bergauf und schon nach 5 Minuten war ich durchgeschwitzt 🥵
      Aber …. es hat sich gelohnt. Zum ersten, wir waren doch schonmal 2014 hier. Aber nicht im Dom. Und es war echt der Knaller. Corona Nachweis und Billet geholt und nach 40 Stufen- armer Walter, der war fix und fertig als wir drin waren . Die Bilder sprechen für sich. Für mich eines der schönsten Dome der Welt. Ich war total hingerissen.
      Nun noch 80 km bis zum nächsten ruhigen Campingplatz und wir konnten uns erholen. Habe wieder ein lecker Abendessen gezaubert und noch eine Partie Schach, danach sind wir todmüde ins Bett gefallen.
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    • Day 4

      Panzano In Chianti, Enoteca il cardo

      October 12, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      A quelques kilomètres du castello di Verazzanno, la petite ville de Panzano.
      On s'y est arrêtés pour déguster quelques bons vin et un plateau de fromages toscans, délicieux.
      vins dégustés : le panzanello vraiment extra et en plus régional le Le Fonti est excellent aussi (possibilité de visiter le vignobles qui est juste à coté d'ailleurs).
      Pour nous bien meilleur que château verazzano, mais chacun ses goûts.
      En se promenant un peu plus bas dans la ville on a également une tres belle vue sur les vignes et collines du Chianti..
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