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Camino

abril - junho 2023
  • Jane Walsh
  • Anthony Walsh
“May our eyes be opened to what is not seen” Leia mais
  • Jane Walsh
  • Anthony Walsh

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  • 72pegadas
  • 69dias
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  • 600curtidas
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Os mais novos primeiro
  • Camino
    2Hermitage (a place where hermits sleep)
    A lot of pilgrims send bags aheadBag collectionLook at the fire area in local parksWalking closer to the roadFuel stations- not just farmlandsSanity - farms againCoffee stop1Getting really good at coffee stops1Hermitage built into rockFirst farming activity we have seen2A bit of traffic1Our bedroom view1A picture we saw showing what it looks like later in the year. So lucky to have green

    Villafranca Montes de Oca (11.9km/245km)

    4 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    “A Smelling the Roses day”
    Having a private room, we were able to wake up at a leisurely time, knowing we only had a short walk today. We had breakfast in the town we were at before setting off at a gentle pace and throughout the day we did everything at half pace. We normally manage to pop into a church either before leaving or shortly thereafter to offer a prayer. More beautiful farmlands with the main road a little further away than yesterday so it did not interfere with our tranquil setting. We passed by Ermita de la Penna, which is a hermitage built into the cliffs. More little villages to pass through today. We had a cup of coffee at Villambistia with a beautiful setting overlooking the farmlands. We approached our village, passing another hermitage, to Villafranca Montes de Oca and booked ourselves into the beautiful Albergue de peregrinos San Antonio. It sits at the foot of a pass, with a climb beckoning us for the start of our walk tomorrow. We had a very lazy afternoon, planning for our coming days and chatting to other pilgrims before setting off to dinner for the pilgrim menu of the day at our Albergue which we shared with the Canadian Grandfather and Grandson who we first met in Pamplona, which feels like a lifetime ago.Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Our friendly pop up cafe bird loving artist
    1Good morning from our bedroom windowChurch in Villafranca1Look for Jane at the bottom of the hill before the next climbPop up road cafe1HoopoeAir trafficSaint Martin in Atapuerta

    Atapeurco (18.2km / 263.2km)

    5 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    A perfect sunrise to get us ready for a steep uphill climb after many days of gentle rolling hills. The climb wasn’t bad and we enjoyed the tree lined path through the forest. At the top of the hill there was a local who made our day. He had strong coffee and lovely fresh oranges. He was so friendly! He had painted lots of wooden stumps with birds , piano keyboard, chess board, etc. Jane spotted a painted bird that looked like a hoopoe. She asked him about it and he got really excited and pulled out his bird book. It turns out the Hoopoe migrates from South Africa to Spain. We also saw a pied kingfisher! Anyway a lovely unplanned coffee stop.
    The rest of the walk was uneventful although the landscape is becoming less green! Just before Atapuerco, in the caves outside of town, the remains of early humans have been discovered, some as old as 800,000 years.
    We arrived in Atapuerco, our village for the night. I think it is the original “1 horse town” and was half expecting to see John Wayne walking down the deserted main road toward me with his revolver! (A cowboy movie star for the younger readers).
    It’s a pity because it is a lovely little town that obviously survives on Camino Pilgrims and not much else. The church is Saint Martin and large but sadly locked.
    While we were sitting on the stair outside the church, hoping it would open after Siesta, a Canadian lady came to check too and we got talking. We mentioned a detour we are planning tomorrow (more on that tomorrow), she got really excited as she had planned the same detour (and even staying at the same hotel) and was looking to share a taxi - they say “the Camino provides”.
    Well, we have just returned from dinner and Wow! A fine dining experience! We had an outstanding 3 course meal and wine at Camino prices. It didn’t make sense in this tiny town but we believe that it is the restaurant that tour groups visit when doing sightseeing in the area. Lucky us!
    We joined an American couple, Robb and Susan and the Canadian lady we will share the taxi with tomorrow (Danielle). A lovely evening! Beunos Noches.    Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Early morning energy
    13Rocky path up the hill1Burgos in the distanceAlbergue advertisingA hermitage built by a wealthy family1Traffic, approaching Burgos!!Burgos in the distance

    Burgos (Castanares) (12.9km / 276.1km)

    6 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Nothing like an uphill climb and chilly weather to wake up the body! The first part of the walk was slow over very rocky terrain but very peaceful as the sun rose behind us. There was a large cross at the top of the hill. From there we started the entry to Burgos, a long slow decent from the farmlands into industrial areas and past a small airport. Along the way we had a lovely coffee stop and met up with a few regulars. It’s always uplifting to see familiar faces.
    We ended our walk at Castanares so we could get a taxi to Santa Domingo de Silos, 62km away with Danielle, the Canadian lady we met the day before. More on Silos tomorrow …    Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Monastery cloisters
    1Dom Benedictine liquorAwesome lunch view of monasteryView of Silos from top of hillJane peeping in window to get picturePicture from peeping Jane of EmitageSuckling lambEvening Vespers2Monastery bells1Gregorian Compline. Regina Coeli

    Santo Domingo de Silos (detour)

    6 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Our taxi collected us as planned at the small town before Burgos. It was not a cheap journey, so it was good to have Danielle to share the cost. The journey to Santo Domingo de Silos took about 40 minutes, through many small villages. Santo Domingo de Silos did not disappoint. There are shuttered windows, rustic stone walls, and plenty of cobbled lanes. The main attraction of the town is the Benedictine monastery around which the rest of the town is built. Complete with cloisters and plenty of stunning Romanesque architecture. The Monastery dates all the way back to the 7th-century. The monks of Silos live in the Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos to this day. Today, part of the Monastery has now been transformed into a museum, where you can learn all about the history of living in the Abbey during the Middle Ages.

    The best view in Santo Domingo de Silos can be found from the small hermitage which presides over the rest of the town. The small chapel is closed to the public, but we managed to spy through the keyhole to see the interior.

    One of the more unusual things to do in Santo Domingo de Silos is to enjoy the Gregorian Chants of the Silos Abbey Monks. The monks actually managed to make it into the British pop charts in the 1990s with recordings of their Chants. Today, the Divine Office is sung 6 times a day. I managed to go to three (Vespers, Compline and Lauds). Each were beautiful. The abbey itself is beautiful in its simplicity and the acoustics are very impressive.

    Between vespers and compline we managed a very delicious dinner of suckling roast lamb and of course a glass of wine. We sat next to a German tourist. When we mentioned we would have to get a taxi back to Burgos the next day, he very kindly offered to take us. What a win!!

    After Compline we were very happy to end our day and settled comfortably at our hotel.    Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Burgos Cathedral
    River entrance into BurgosDelicious PinchosBurhis - busy cityBurgos CathedralCastle Ruins view of BurgosCamino Stages

    Burgos city after Silos detour (283.2km)

    7 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After our lift “blessing” from Martin we walked along the river and then made our way to the Albergue Emaus. We dropped our bags off, went for the best tapas lunch and then visited the major Burgos tourist attractions of the Cathedral and castle. I know we have used words like incredible before but WOW! The 13th century Gothic cathedral is huge, has multiple chapels inside, cloisters and art of the highest quality. It was completely restored in the 90’s and early 2000’s and looks brand new. We would not do it justice trying to describe it. There was actually too much to take in on one visit.
    The castle ruins provided a view over the city and back along the Camino path we walked. Typically it was at the top of the hill which required a walk! Even our “day off” seems to clock up the steps.
    We returned to check in. The Albergue is linked to the local Parish of Iglesia de San José Obrero and is very community oriented and has a distinct purpose to provide rest. The accommodation is immaculate, quiet and provides a reflective space, quite different to the hustle of many others. We got special treatment as a married couple.
    We went to mass at the local Parish which had a lovely youth choir singing which was energising and a group of about 50 ladies had just completed a weekend retreat and were in full voice (video). It was so good to see a full church and do many young people. They invited the pilgrims up and gave us each a blessing.
    At 9 o’clock there was a group “get to know you session” which really helps to make new Camino friends that we will undoubtedly meet several times in the next few weeks.
    Marie-Noel, the lady running the Albergue was so welcoming. When she saw us at mass she arranged the blessing and invited us to join the community celebration. She held my hands in hers and her hands were just like mom’s (May) - so soft, warm and comforting. Thinking of you mom!
    Burgos actually marks the end of the first phase “physical” and we enter a new phase “mental” with less beautiful surroundings …. See picture below.    Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Pilgrim mass
    Last nights Albergue11Exiting BurgosMurals in Rabe de las Calzadas21Approaching Hornillos de CaminoChanging landscap - Maseta

    Hornillos de Camino (20.1km / 303.4km)

    8 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The walk out of Burgos was confusing at times and we slept on the other side so had to walk through the centre. We left Burgos later than we should have on a warmish day after an obligatory “cafe solo” near the Cathedral. It’s not quite as peaceful as leaving a small village at sunrise but we were on our way.

    In the tiny village of Rabe de lid Calzados they had painted bright murals from bible scenes and there was a small church open, Ermita de Nuestra Senora de Monasterio. When Jane popped in her head the nun seemed very pleased as a lot of people just walk past. She was very sweet gave us each a “miraculous medal” and a blessing.

    From that point we enter the Maseta. The landscape changes from lush farmlands and hills to more sandy / desert like and flatter land and the heat intensifies.

    With this change in landscape We are entering stage 2 of the Camino (see yesterday photo) entering the mental phase.

    So the walking isn’t as tough on the body but the lack of variety and heat test the mental side. We had a taste of the heat in our after lunch stint from 1 to 3 pm which was enough to convince us to wake and leave early. The village we are staying in, Hornilla de Camino translates as “small stove of the Camino” - a warning indeed! Fortunately the weather forecast is for a cold snap - let’s hope it is accurate.

    After the usual admin we went to a local mass which is very unusual in such a small village. The priest obviously travels and arrived at 6:05 for 6pm mass! There were about 15 pilgrims and only 2 could speak Spanish which made things interesting. After mass the priest gathered us around the alter as we each read the pilgrims prayer in our own language and then sang a hymn in French! He then had a photo taken with us all and stamped our credentials.

    The Albergue had a communal dinner of salad, paella, red wine and yoghurt. We sat near a group of friendly young Italians and a Spaniard and then a British mom and daughter and a lady from the US Idaho. Good fun as usual with all the languages.    Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Leaving Hornillos de CaminoSt Brigid ErmitoHontanas13Sally, the dog walking the CaminoRuins of the Convent of San Anton (a hospital to early pilgrims)22Finally at CasteojenezDinner at Albergue Rosalia

    Castrojenez (19.9km / 323.3km)

    9 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was an absolutely perfect walking day. It was cool and cloudy and flat! Just the odd little hill here and there. We walked between the hills for a change. There were fields and fields of poppies and other wild flowers and the usual green crops. We really are lucky with the cool weather as there was no shade from trees at all! We walked with a young American, John we met at church the previous day who had just quit his lawyer job and was walking the Camino before opening an independent book store and an older American lady that we met at dinner the night before. A very chatty morning!

    We have accepted it but the pressure on accommodation means we need to book ahead and therefore we can’t be spontaneous to stop at a place that grabs us. Our coffee stop this morning, Hontanas, certainly would have been such a place. The people were sooo friendly and welcoming and they had natural healing pools.
    We passed through (literally) the old ruins of San Anton - a hospital built to care for the early pilgrims. They have built a road right through the ruins.
    We had a brief rain shower just before we arrived. At dinner we caught up with a couple we last saw in Pamplona about 2 weeks ago which was a nice surprise.
    Castro (Caste) Jeniz is an imposing town with a castle on the top of the hill and 3 large churches as well as a convent of the Poor Clares    Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Assessing the climb1View from the top2With Tammy and James (first met on day 3)Entering the Meseta properPicnic spot and coffee van aheadErmita de San NicolasBoadilla for lunchWalking alongside the canal31

    Fromista (24.7km / 348km)

    10 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Our roommates set their alarm for 5:20 and put the light on which I suppose helped us leave by 7am. We started with a steep hill climb which warmed us up on a chilly 6 degree morning. Immediately followed by a very steep decline (18%). Apart from a couple of picnic spots and a small mobile cafe there was a 11km walk to second breakfast in Itero de Vega. There was a small Ermitage de San Nicolas ( originally a pilgrim hospital). We had a salad lunch at Boadilla del Camino. We could easily have stopped there but had 5.6km to go. We were very pleasantly surprised with a beautiful path than ran alongside a canal the whole way. The canal was originally used to transport wheat but is now used for irrigation and leisure (ferry ride). It was so peaceful just hearing birds, frogs and the wind in the wheat (listen to video).
    There is not much to say about Fromista - a bit dead! It is the southern most city along the Camino Frances and the epicentre of wheat growing in Spain and has 3 churches!
    So far, the Maseta is not what we expected. It had been described as “desert like”. I think a better description would be “plains” but we will see …
    Only 1 restaurant was open before 8 so it was packed with pilgrims and the kitchen couldn’t cope. The others opened after 8. We were the only pilgrims at mass which got a bit awkward when we were called up for a blessing. The priest spoke in Spanish but we seemed to understand each other. He seemed happy we were there and were married! He looked a bit like a Ruggier, my (Ant) moms family.
    We need an early start tomorrow as we haven’t booked accommodation. We want to stay at a Parochial (Parish) hostel which is first come first serve.    Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Sally walking with us
    Camino traffic5Sally walking behind JaneWalking alongside roadWalking is a little lessFlat Maseta PlainsApproaching Carrion de las CondesQueue outside AlbergueWith Santiago3Soooooi goodPilgrim blessingSalve Regina video

    Carrion de las Condes (18.9km / 366.9km)

    11 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Well, we got off to our early start and met up immediately with a group including Sally the dog! For those who have asked, Sally and her owner, Florence, walked from their home in Bordeaux to Burgos last year. This time they are walking from Burgos to Santiago. They walked a brisk pace and chatted a lot which helped us a lot, and the terrain was flat and weather a very cool 3 degrees, reaching the 10km breakfast spot in just under 2 hours. We didn’t see much of the scenery around us with the fast walking and chatting. After the break we slowed a little but made it to the Albergue we wanted at 11:30, before opening time. We got in easily this time as we were early. We treated ourselves to a wonderful hamburger for lunch which went down really well.
    Carrion de las Condes is a lovely town, combining the beautiful old buildings and roads with some very modern restaurants and shops and is quite big.
    The Albergue Peregrino Parochial de Santa Maria is run by the Augustine Sisters. There is another Albergue in town linked to the Monastery of Santa Clara run by the Madres Clarisas.
    We had a light, early dinner and beer before Mass at Santa Maria which is the parish connected to the Albergue. Mass was full with 49 pilgrims and plenty of parishioners too. It makes such a difference to a Parish having dedicated sisters involved. They brought an energy and lovely music. The priest was beautiful too and he gave each one of us an individual pilgrim blessing along with a paper star that the sisters had made. When we got back to the Albergue we socialised a little in the outside garden area before heading to bed.    Leia mais

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  • Camino
    Storm threatening
    Our Albergue and church as we leftMonasterio de San Zoilo, now an upmarket hotelWelcome Food VanMore Camino trafficFlatFlat, straight MesetaWe saw a few of these encouraging PamRacing the storm but ready with wet gearLedigosRooibos Tea is very common hereGreat weather forecast

    Ledigos (23.2km / 390.1km)

    12 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We slept in a big dormitory room and some crazy people left at 3am?? and 4 am?? and 4.30am! Anyway, it was 3 degrees when we started and stayed cool all day. At one point we thought we were going to get wet but we stayed just ahead thankfully.
    We were really worried about the heat in the Meseta but as you can see on the weather forecast, it will be cold for the next week so we will be spared. When it is cool we probably walk at least 15% quicker.
    There was a 16km gap between the two towns this morning but a local had set up a fabulous containerised food van stop and we had a lovely cup of coffee and second breakfast after 8km.
    We caught up with an Aussie group of 3 that we met briefly on Day 1 and then about 10 days later. Nice to see them again.
    Sadly, Sally the dog is now 1 town ahead of us and we will probably not see them again. We caught up with them briefly at our lunch stop. There was also a mobile pilgrim police van checking everyone was ok. They have a section of the police which are only for pilgrims and they can be called at anytime and are often seen driving by checking if anyone needs assistance.
    We haven’t talked much about the walk because there is not much to say. It was a long, straight, flat walk. It is still pretty but in a different way. With less to look at we are supposed to think more / focus on the mental side. Towards the end of the day all we are thinking about is our feet! The rest of our bodies are strong but did I mention the feet?
    Our accommodation, Albergue la Morena, is a lovely restored property with exceptional service. There is nothing else in town - we didn’t see a single person other than Albergues. Even the church was locked and barred. The small local towns just are not financially feasible to maintain which is sad and makes our Albergues all the more impressive.
    We had a stunning dinner with a lentil and vegetable dish, pork ribs and tiramisu! We shared our table with a Canadian lady. A lovely end to the day.    Leia mais

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