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Camino
  • Jane Walsh
  • Anthony Walsh
  • Jane Walsh
  • Anthony Walsh

Camino

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  • Camino
    Pilgrim mass
    Pilgrim massLast nights Albergue11Exiting BurgosMurals in Rabe de las Calzadas21Approaching Hornillos de CaminoChanging landscap - Maseta

    Hornillos de Camino (20.1km / 303.4km)

    May 8, 2023 in Spain ☁️ 19 °C

    The walk out of Burgos was confusing at times and we slept on the other side so had to walk through the centre. We left Burgos later than we should have on a warmish day after an obligatory “cafe solo” near the Cathedral. It’s not quite as peaceful as leaving a small village at sunrise but we were on our way.

    In the tiny village of Rabe de lid Calzados they had painted bright murals from bible scenes and there was a small church open, Ermita de Nuestra Senora de Monasterio. When Jane popped in her head the nun seemed very pleased as a lot of people just walk past. She was very sweet gave us each a “miraculous medal” and a blessing.

    From that point we enter the Maseta. The landscape changes from lush farmlands and hills to more sandy / desert like and flatter land and the heat intensifies.

    With this change in landscape We are entering stage 2 of the Camino (see yesterday photo) entering the mental phase.

    So the walking isn’t as tough on the body but the lack of variety and heat test the mental side. We had a taste of the heat in our after lunch stint from 1 to 3 pm which was enough to convince us to wake and leave early. The village we are staying in, Hornilla de Camino translates as “small stove of the Camino” - a warning indeed! Fortunately the weather forecast is for a cold snap - let’s hope it is accurate.

    After the usual admin we went to a local mass which is very unusual in such a small village. The priest obviously travels and arrived at 6:05 for 6pm mass! There were about 15 pilgrims and only 2 could speak Spanish which made things interesting. After mass the priest gathered us around the alter as we each read the pilgrims prayer in our own language and then sang a hymn in French! He then had a photo taken with us all and stamped our credentials.

    The Albergue had a communal dinner of salad, paella, red wine and yoghurt. We sat near a group of friendly young Italians and a Spaniard and then a British mom and daughter and a lady from the US Idaho. Good fun as usual with all the languages.    Read more

  • Camino
    Leaving Hornillos de CaminoSt Brigid ErmitoHontanas13Sally, the dog walking the CaminoRuins of the Convent of San Anton (a hospital to early pilgrims)22Finally at CasteojenezDinner at Albergue Rosalia

    Castrojenez (19.9km / 323.3km)

    May 9, 2023 in Spain ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was an absolutely perfect walking day. It was cool and cloudy and flat! Just the odd little hill here and there. We walked between the hills for a change. There were fields and fields of poppies and other wild flowers and the usual green crops. We really are lucky with the cool weather as there was no shade from trees at all! We walked with a young American, John we met at church the previous day who had just quit his lawyer job and was walking the Camino before opening an independent book store and an older American lady that we met at dinner the night before. A very chatty morning!

    We have accepted it but the pressure on accommodation means we need to book ahead and therefore we can’t be spontaneous to stop at a place that grabs us. Our coffee stop this morning, Hontanas, certainly would have been such a place. The people were sooo friendly and welcoming and they had natural healing pools.
    We passed through (literally) the old ruins of San Anton - a hospital built to care for the early pilgrims. They have built a road right through the ruins.
    We had a brief rain shower just before we arrived. At dinner we caught up with a couple we last saw in Pamplona about 2 weeks ago which was a nice surprise.
    Castro (Caste) Jeniz is an imposing town with a castle on the top of the hill and 3 large churches as well as a convent of the Poor Clares    Read more

  • Camino
    Assessing the climb1View from the top2With Tammy and James (first met on day 3)Entering the Meseta properPicnic spot and coffee van aheadErmita de San NicolasBoadilla for lunchWalking alongside the canal31

    Fromista (24.7km / 348km)

    May 10, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 5 °C

    Our roommates set their alarm for 5:20 and put the light on which I suppose helped us leave by 7am. We started with a steep hill climb which warmed us up on a chilly 6 degree morning. Immediately followed by a very steep decline (18%). Apart from a couple of picnic spots and a small mobile cafe there was a 11km walk to second breakfast in Itero de Vega. There was a small Ermitage de San Nicolas ( originally a pilgrim hospital). We had a salad lunch at Boadilla del Camino. We could easily have stopped there but had 5.6km to go. We were very pleasantly surprised with a beautiful path than ran alongside a canal the whole way. The canal was originally used to transport wheat but is now used for irrigation and leisure (ferry ride). It was so peaceful just hearing birds, frogs and the wind in the wheat (listen to video).
    There is not much to say about Fromista - a bit dead! It is the southern most city along the Camino Frances and the epicentre of wheat growing in Spain and has 3 churches!
    So far, the Maseta is not what we expected. It had been described as “desert like”. I think a better description would be “plains” but we will see …
    Only 1 restaurant was open before 8 so it was packed with pilgrims and the kitchen couldn’t cope. The others opened after 8. We were the only pilgrims at mass which got a bit awkward when we were called up for a blessing. The priest spoke in Spanish but we seemed to understand each other. He seemed happy we were there and were married! He looked a bit like a Ruggier, my (Ant) moms family.
    We need an early start tomorrow as we haven’t booked accommodation. We want to stay at a Parochial (Parish) hostel which is first come first serve.    Read more

  • Camino
    Sally walking with us
    Sally walking with usCamino traffic5Sally walking behind JaneWalking alongside roadWalking is a little lessFlat Maseta PlainsApproaching Carrion de las CondesQueue outside AlbergueWith Santiago3Soooooi goodPilgrim blessingSalve Regina video

    Carrion de las Condes (18.9km / 366.9km)

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 5 °C

    Well, we got off to our early start and met up immediately with a group including Sally the dog! For those who have asked, Sally and her owner, Florence, walked from their home in Bordeaux to Burgos last year. This time they are walking from Burgos to Santiago. They walked a brisk pace and chatted a lot which helped us a lot, and the terrain was flat and weather a very cool 3 degrees, reaching the 10km breakfast spot in just under 2 hours. We didn’t see much of the scenery around us with the fast walking and chatting. After the break we slowed a little but made it to the Albergue we wanted at 11:30, before opening time. We got in easily this time as we were early. We treated ourselves to a wonderful hamburger for lunch which went down really well.
    Carrion de las Condes is a lovely town, combining the beautiful old buildings and roads with some very modern restaurants and shops and is quite big.
    The Albergue Peregrino Parochial de Santa Maria is run by the Augustine Sisters. There is another Albergue in town linked to the Monastery of Santa Clara run by the Madres Clarisas.
    We had a light, early dinner and beer before Mass at Santa Maria which is the parish connected to the Albergue. Mass was full with 49 pilgrims and plenty of parishioners too. It makes such a difference to a Parish having dedicated sisters involved. They brought an energy and lovely music. The priest was beautiful too and he gave each one of us an individual pilgrim blessing along with a paper star that the sisters had made. When we got back to the Albergue we socialised a little in the outside garden area before heading to bed.    Read more

  • Camino
    Storm threatening
    Storm threateningOur Albergue and church as we leftMonasterio de San Zoilo, now an upmarket hotelWelcome Food VanMore Camino trafficFlatFlat, straight MesetaWe saw a few of these encouraging PamRacing the storm but ready with wet gearLedigosRooibos Tea is very common hereGreat weather forecast

    Ledigos (23.2km / 390.1km)

    May 12, 2023 in Spain ☁️ 10 °C

    We slept in a big dormitory room and some crazy people left at 3am?? and 4 am?? and 4.30am! Anyway, it was 3 degrees when we started and stayed cool all day. At one point we thought we were going to get wet but we stayed just ahead thankfully.
    We were really worried about the heat in the Meseta but as you can see on the weather forecast, it will be cold for the next week so we will be spared. When it is cool we probably walk at least 15% quicker.
    There was a 16km gap between the two towns this morning but a local had set up a fabulous containerised food van stop and we had a lovely cup of coffee and second breakfast after 8km.
    We caught up with an Aussie group of 3 that we met briefly on Day 1 and then about 10 days later. Nice to see them again.
    Sadly, Sally the dog is now 1 town ahead of us and we will probably not see them again. We caught up with them briefly at our lunch stop. There was also a mobile pilgrim police van checking everyone was ok. They have a section of the police which are only for pilgrims and they can be called at anytime and are often seen driving by checking if anyone needs assistance.
    We haven’t talked much about the walk because there is not much to say. It was a long, straight, flat walk. It is still pretty but in a different way. With less to look at we are supposed to think more / focus on the mental side. Towards the end of the day all we are thinking about is our feet! The rest of our bodies are strong but did I mention the feet?
    Our accommodation, Albergue la Morena, is a lovely restored property with exceptional service. There is nothing else in town - we didn’t see a single person other than Albergues. Even the church was locked and barred. The small local towns just are not financially feasible to maintain which is sad and makes our Albergues all the more impressive.
    We had a stunning dinner with a lentil and vegetable dish, pork ribs and tiramisu! We shared our table with a Canadian lady. A lovely end to the day.    Read more

  • Camino
    Communal shared dinner
    Communal shared dinnerAlbergue La Morena brekkie2Ermita de la Virgen del Puenta3Half WayAlbergue Monasteria de Santa Cruz1Half way certificatePilgrim blessing1Old gate entrance at SahagunSahagun

    Sahagun (16.2km / 406.3km)

    May 13, 2023 in Spain ☁️ 17 °C

    A milestone day - Half way and over 400km 🏅🙏🍾
    It was freezing this morning! Well, almost, but it felt colder than the 2 degrees! We had a proper breakfast at the Albergues and braced for the cold. We warmed up quite quickly and enjoyed a peaceful cool walk. The landscape has flattened out a lot but still farms as far as the eye can see. We went through a couple of small villages and stopped for a coffee. We then took the alternative route from San Nicolas to Sahagun which was further away from the road. It was stunning and we didn’t see another person for about an hour, just the sounds of nature.
    We reached the Ermita, la Virgen del Puenta which is the “official” geographic half way point of the Camino Frances without much fanfare but a sense of achievement and then headed for town.

    We arrived in Sahagun. Their market day is Saturday, so we walked through the market, which made the streets very crowded. Everything was for sale from deli items to clothes. We arrived at our Albergue - the Monasterio de Santa Cruz. The Marist priests have been running it for the last 5 years and it is linked to the Benedictine Convent. A Marist Brother from England took us through the ropes and checked us in. We slipped out into the busy streets for some lunch and met up with some Aussie pilgrims that we keep bumping into. We joined in the coffee / tea sharing session at our Albergue. We were split into an English speaking (pretty much everything except Spanish and Italian) group - there were about 12 of us led by a volunteer from the States. It was beautifully run and great to meet new faces. We then got our official half way certificate and went to Mass at Iglesia San Juan which is the convent church. The Priest was very welcoming and tried to include all languages. I (Jane) read the 2nd reading in English. He gave a lovely Pilgrim Blessing after Mass - there would have been over 50 pilgrims. It is so lovely to see so many pilgrims make an effort to come for each pilgrim blessing and everyone is always welcome. The Sisters were also involved and sang the Magnificat and bid us all “Buen Camino” with such beautiful smiles. We had a communal dinner with the pilgrims, Brothers and volunteers. Everyone was asked to bring a plate and what a feast was laid on, with plenty of chattering and laughter. There is to be silence for everyone from 10pm to 7am, so we will enjoy a bit of a sleep in as we only have a short day tomorrow.    Read more

  • Camino
    1Puente Canto4Interesting place for a barrierA choice of routes1Typical Camini path with trees on the Southern side creating shadeA bit flatter and dryer than beforeErmita de la Virgin del Perales"Pilgrim" bags being sent ahead.2A unique bell tower

    Bercianos del Real Camino (10.1km/416.4)

    May 14, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 10 °C

    A peaceful start as there is “silence” until 7am. The overnight stay was so relaxing. We only had a 10km walk so we went into the town centre for breakfast. Eventually we found a place that was open. Sundays are very unpredictable.
    We walked at a gentle pace after a long week of walking (133km this week!) and 7 consecutive days. We have a couple more 20km days and then we will have a day off in Leon and slow down a lot from there.
    We enjoyed a few phone calls home while walking. The only thing of note on todays walk was an impressive bridge at Sahagun as we left town and a quick visit to a small church (Ermita de la Virgin de Perales) just before the end of the walk.
    The town of Becianos was very quiet until they all walked out of mass to go for Sunday lunch and it has the strangest bell tower I’ve ever seen - a steel structure that does the job but doesn’t look pretty!    Read more

  • Camino
    1

    Happy Mothers Day from Camino

    May 14, 2023 in Spain 🌬 15 °C

    Happy Mother’s Day to Mom, Jane and all of the mother’s following us. An inspiring aspect of The Camino is the way it shows constant gratitude and respect to mothers and women in general.
    The most inspiring is the dedicated devotion to Our Lady wherever we go, in the magnificent churches, the paintings, in the mass, the Rosary and shrines and statues.
    I heard someone ask a sister why there was such a strong devotion to Mary and her answer was so simple. She is the mother of God, who better to ask to pray for us to God?
    So to all the mothers and women, here are a few pictures of Our Lady and some flowers I picked for you along the way to show my love and gratitude for you.    Read more

  • Camino
    1Crazy Canadians at Elvis Bar
    1Crazy Canadians at Elvis BarEl Burgo Ranero1Picnic spotIrrigation on flat landElvis pub - we were there first!2Graffiti on the ceiling

    Reliegos (20.2km / 436.6km)

    May 15, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 15 °C

    Well! Today was a day of extremes. Where do I start …? I know, let’s start at the very beginning.
    A gorgeous sunrise, a cool but not cold morning and a flat, flat walk! The most noticeable things on the walk were the irrigation system which was amazing to see strongly flowing water on flat, flat land and …. Hmmmm. Ok, so there was one noticeable thing!

    There are a few photos which look similar but we’re miles apart. A road on the right, a pathway and trees to the left with fairly dry land on either side.
    The walk really gives you time to think because there is no dramatic scenery to distract you and that is a gift too.
    We checked in and did the usual admin and then walked around another town that died once farming became mechanised. Jane suggested we go to “Bar Elvis” and we were first there when it opened at 5pm. The owner was an eccentric Mexican who provided some entertainment in his own way, playing country music, songs from the 70’s and done modern upbeat Mexican music.
    He allows anyone to write on the walls or ceiling! A young Frenchman came in after a bad day. We were just about done with our beer when the “Crazy Canadian ladies” - all well into their 60’s arrived. Not a good combination with the eccentric Mexican! The rest is predictable! When I said “no thanks” to another beer they laughed us off and bought one anyway and we had to return the favour. Anyway, they are great fun and everyone had a laugh.
    We had to drink down our last beer quickly to make it back to dinner. There was only one other coupe there … a quiet, older French couple who had 9 kids …. As different as they were to the crazy Canadians, we had a lovely dinner!
    So a day of extremes but each contributed to a fabulous, memorable day.    Read more

  • Camino
    Yummy toast with cheese and Jambon
    Yummy toast with cheese and JambonReliegos1French Marie from ReliegosPilgrim statueTown wall3Which would you choose?Historic detour1Smelling the rosesDry, dusty roadIndustrial areaApproaching Leon - city trafficRob and JaneSt Francis Cloister tourTapas and 18/70 beer with RobInteresting food

    Leon (21.7km / 461.3km)

    May 16, 2023 in Spain ☁️ 17 °C

    The most challenging day mentally. Dusty, dry land alongside busy roads and industrial areas didn’t provide much to occupy the mind and divert attention from the walk. But, that is a key part of the Camino at times.
    There were more impressive examples of irrigation systems and we had breakfast in the lovely town of Mansilla de las Mullas where we had hoped to stay but could not book accommodation. As we left the town we could look back to parts of the ancient town wall.
    Arriving in Leon was a major milestone for us. It was the end of 9 consecutive days of walking from Burgos covering 178km. In hindsight it was too much and probably an overreaction to the accommodation issue but it proved what we could do. It wasn’t just the mental side of consecutive walking days but the physical impact.
    I say probably too much because walking the last week I’ve witnessed silent acceptance of pain and discomfort from Jane who’s feet have had blister after blister despite all the preventative care. She’s become an expert at blister surgery at the end of each day! Hopefully a day’s rest and a calmer schedule will put an end to that.
    Tomorrow we will be playing “Tourist” in Leon and from here we are planning shorter legs and more stops so we can enjoy more of what will be around us.
    This evening one of the Franciscan brothers gave us a tour of the church and cloisters of Saint Francis church which is linked to our Albergue. Also a reminder to focus on the spiritual part of the Camino.
    This was followed by mass and Pilgrim blessing and then we went for local tapas with Rob (Canadian). The Tapas bar was 100% local and Spanish. Ordering beer was easy - we had a really nice 18/70! Food was a different story. They have the food behind glass and you point at it. They say whatever it is, you look a bit confused so they show you. The first choice he shows me his ribs. Perfecto I thought. Anyway it’s just as well the we like livers! The other dish was “Cayo”. ??? It was lovely and spicy. We googled it when we got home and it turns out idly was “callo” which is tripe stew but it was really good! A really authentic evening! …,    Read more

  • Camino
    Cathedral by night
    Cathedral by nightGaudi building3Our mate GaudiAlbergue Leon (3rd floor)Cathedral1Cathedral interior11Cathedral interiorRoman walls at St IsadoraCloisters at Saint IsadoraOur pubDrinks with fellow pilgrims1

    Leon Rest Day

    May 17, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 21 °C

    Leon is by far the biggest city we have walked through but it is an elegant city with charm and a sense of presence as an historical city of substance and importance. It has been beautifully maintained and developed. It is worth a visit for a few days with the churches, museums, historical architecture and so many choices to sample the wonderful food.
    We moved from our first night albergue, just outside the city wall, after doing a full load of washing of everything in our bags, a cup of coffee and tostadas! We moved to the centre of town, 50m from the Cathedral into Albergue Leon, the 3rd story of a buildings overlooking the main mostly pedestrian road. After dropping off our bags we went off to see the sights, starting with a building by the famous “Gaudi” of Barcelona fame and a photo sitting next to his statue.

    We stepped into the Santa Maria de Leon Cathedral - a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance in style - and were immediately mesmerised by the many stain glass windows (1800 square metres of glass), 125 in total - set high in the walls that shed a lightness of touch to the interior (different to so many of the other churches which are rather dark). One of the chief functions of the medieval church was to instruct the illiterate and give them pictures they could understand, to show them the story of the Gospels and the legends of the Saints. Many chapels are placed all around the sides, each beautiful in their own way. The choir is a masterpiece on its own with one of the best organs - one day we hope to be back to enjoy a recital.

    It was Siesta time so everything was closed so we went into Barrio Humedo, area, renowned for their tapas, for lunch and a beer. We then had a quick shower and arrived at Saint Isadora church and museum as they opened. We had a guided tour showing us a snapshot of its varied life over 2 thousand years, firstly as a Roman fortrace, then during early Christianity, the period it was under Muslim control and finally when it returned to Christian rule in the 11th century. During the tour we saw some restored frescoes and she told us how they did it too. Quite ingenious. We saw a library full of books, hundreds of years old and a bible with illustrations and footnotes in perfect condition from the 12th century. Then through the cloisters and into the palace where there were ceiling paintings of the life of Jesus in original condition from around 1200. They were stunning and are know as the Romanesque Systine Chapel. A great visit.
    We then went to mass at the Cathedral and had good intentions of going to the Cathedral museum but were “museumed out” by then so we joined a few friends for drinks and then all went out for a fabulous dinner. They brought us large share plates of cured meats and cheese, garlic prawns, salad, cod in a spicy sauce , oxtail which was a highlight and then rare beef steak on a sizzle plate. We ended with a “herbal liqueur”. It was great seeing everyone in a relaxed state after a day without walking. Before retiring for the night we saw the Cathedral all lit up for the night - another impressive sight.    Read more

  • Camino
    Not so green!
    Not so green!Walking without much to see1A different backpackLa Virgen del Camino BasillicaQuiet townA "Super Spar" indeedAn Oasis in a dry town.1Right next to the OasisSaint "James"Group dinnerPaella2

    Villar de Mazarife (11km / 479.5km)

    May 18, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 17 °C

    Today was one of our more uninteresting days. We managed a lovely breakfast in Leon before leaving and then were on our way. The start of todays walk was 7km through industrial Leon. We decided to bus it to preserve my blistered feet. I would have been horrified if you had told me before we left that I would do that, but I am pleased to say I am very happy to have done so. The bus route was pretty much along the pilgrim path. We got off the bus and visited the Basilica of La Virgin del Camino, a rather modern looking church, but it was great to start our walk with a prayer. The landscape and vegetation have definitely changed - much drier and more scrub like. We elected to do the scenic route rather than the road route which is a little longer. The little towns we passed through were very similar to a typical Karoo dorpie (small town for the non South Africans).. The village we are staying at tonight is called Villar de Mazarife. It is quite quaint but very quiet. Someone takes good care of the gardens as they are beautiful and well cared for. We are staying at Albergue San Antonio de Padua, so we feel we are in good hands.
    We had a very good quality meal including a Paella and crepes for dessert. Most went to bed after dinner but there were 2 Welsh couples travelling together who have done parts of the Camino (1 week at a time) for the last 10 years. They were well oiled and very entertaining. The other was a young German who gave a yodelling performance! Once again, the group meals provide a highlight!    Read more

  • Camino
    Walking buddies 😘
    Walking buddies 😘Perfect sunrise conditions1300 to goTractors at workCamino door stop1Jane has a new friendA boot treeIrrigation systems at workPhiladelphia cheese factoryPuente de Orbigo1Hospital de Orbigo

    Villares de Orbigo (16km / 495.5km)

    May 19, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 4 °C

    Today was one of our best walks. Everything just seemed to be right. A lovely cold, crisp morning. The sun rises directly behind us so the lighting in the early morning is stunning. The beginning of the walk was dead straight - not even a hint of a curve for 6.5km!
    While we have walked through beautiful farmlands, today was really the first time we saw “farming” activity. There were actually people in the fields, tractors ploughing, spraying, planting. The irrigation systems were also full with strong running water.
    The towns were different to the others - there were strong signs of life, people living and working in the area. The farms also seemed different. Smaller and not so “perfect”. It seemed like there might be privately owned and operated whereas the others looked more business like. The towns also had thriving agricultural service businesses. There was just no doubting this was an agricultural centre.
    We walked past a large cheese factory, fertiliser sellers and countless equipment suppliers and mechanics.
    It was all so uplifting after seeing towns that had basically died due to mechanisation.
    We’ve shown pictures of the irrigation before but today it all came to life so we show more. In fact, todays pictures are mostly farming and irrigation!
    The non farming highlight was “Puente de Orbigo” (The bridge over the river Orbigo). It is a bridge and a long raised road into Hospital de Orbigo which was a lovely town and we were really tempted to stop here but had a reservation in the next village, Villares de Orbigo. We seem to be the only pilgrims in town as there is a major “horse” event in town tomorrow - a gymkhana we think. So, a very quiet evening!    Read more

  • Camino
    1Feast at camp stop
    1Feast at camp stopOur Albergue last nightHills are back4See the new shoesMountains in the distanceSurprise camp stop2Astorga in the distanceWater fountain1Nearing Astorga, Cathedral in the distance

    Astorga (14.6km / 510.1km)

    May 20, 2023 in Spain ☁️ 11 °C

    Another cool morning start but we were soon in the sun and we had an early morning shock! A Hill?? We haven’t seen one for about 10 days! Anyway with hills come views. We officially left the Meseta on our way to Astorga and the beautiful scenery returned. We could see the mountains in the distance getting nearer which reminded us that we have some climbs ahead of us in the next week!
    Someone made a pilgrim scarecrow and we saw some very new shoes left there that obviously didn’t do the job.
    About half way on the first leg (10km) there was a real surprise. Someone had set up a camp and was providing lovely freshly squeezed lemon juice and a range of snacks - all for a donation.
    As we reached the top of the hill we had a great view of Astorga and the valley. Oh, and we past the 500km mark today 🍾. Astorga has a great reputation so we will stay tomorrow visiting all the sites, so we will leave that for tomorrows post.
    We had a meal at our Albergue “My Way” which was home cooked delicious! We had 3 French people and a Korean couple at our table so conversation was a bit slow but interesting always. Looking forward to sightseeing tomorrow in Astorga - maybe there might be a chocolate museum here too 🤷‍♂️    Read more

  • Camino
    Gaudi Palace
    Gaudi Palace1Churros for breakfastCentral columnChapel in palaceMary mourningSt AnthonySt FrancisPalace and old city wallLocal barCathedralBells at 4 - see girl and boyCathedral entranceMural of NapoleonTown hallAngels with Episcopal symbolsSt MichaelChapel in Cathedral2Maragato (mountain food)

    Astorga sightseeing day

    May 21, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 11 °C

    It was so relaxing waking up and not having to pack and prepare feet for walking. We started with a “Cafe solo longo”, served with a Churro and toast!

    There are 2 major sites to visit so we did 1 before lunch and 1 after.

    The first was the palace designed by Gaudi as the residence for the bishop of Astorga, and is now a museum. It is quite unique in this area. It is 4 stories and the main design feature is a central pillar in each room with arched ceilings and circular side rooms which is visually very attractive. The chapel was wonderful, with the curves. We will let the pictures tell the rest.

    We then walked on the old city wall and went to mass at the cathedral at 12. We are getting quite used to mass in Spanish! The priest stopped to greet us and gave us a spontaneous private blessing on his way to his next mass.

    We went to a very local bar / restaurant for tapas lunch, definitely the only English speakers around and then went to properly tour the Cathedral. The tour included visits to the museum where there were displays of art, … and interesting historical events. There was also a virtual reality tour which was different. It was like we were the drone.
    Inside the cathedral there were about 10 chapels, each with their own history and so many incredible pieces of art, sculptures and carvings. More evidence of the incredible devotion to Our Lady.
    After the cathedral we tasted as many of the local delicacies as we could find! A dark chocolate ice cream, dark chocolate with nuts, a Montacardo (a really overrated dry piece of cake) and some good old Spanish rooibos tea.
    We watched the bell chime in the main square, look at the girl and boy arms clanging the bells on the attached video.
    I think you get the picture of the day - eat, site visit, eat, site visit, eat, eat, drink, …
    In the evening we met up with other pilgrims for a drink and local Maragato cuisine, speciality of various meats. There is a small local mountainous culture “Maragato” and they live off the game and trout in the hills. We’re not totally sure what we ate but mountain food sounds about right!    Read more

  • Camino
    3
    3Ermita del Ecce Homo just outside AstorgaSanta Catolina de SomozaCoffee and ice creamDirections to shoe store in LeonEntering Stage 3Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción

    Rabanal de Camino (20km / 530.1km)

    May 22, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 9 °C

    Today was a very different day for many reasons. A lot going on but ended peacefully and well.

    For tomorrow we have decided to attend retreat at the Monasterio de San Salvador del Monte Irago, a Benedictine monastery. So tomorrow there will probably be no update!

    We start the 3rd phase of the Camino. After the Body and Mind Phases we enter the “Soul” phase and what better way to start than a retreat day?

    This created the opportunity if Jane didn’t walk today for 3 days of no walking to give her feet a chance to heal. Maybe that is the answer to everyone’s prayers? So, thanks to some convincing from others (you know who you are) Jane took the bus back to Leon to buy some new shoes, got another bus back and then a taxi to meet up with me in Rabanal del Camino. Not a simple thing to do by yourself in a foreign country but Jane managed the stress well as we all know she would! Let’s hope these new shoes do the trick!
    So that meant I walked alone, without my walking buddy! It was weird and all my photos are therefore without a walker in front of me! I used the time to gather my thoughts and learnings from the Camino so far before our retreat. A sneak peak into my reflections is that I’ve been thrown more questions and challenges than answers!
    The other change was that today was a shorts and TShirt day! A cool start that warmed up quickly.

    We started with a lot of other pilgrims with vespers at 7pm (sung Gregorian chant) in a simple church that doesn’t have the perfection and grandeur of many others we have seen but was quiet and spiritual.

    The retreat participants (5) had dinner with the monks (3) at 8:30 and then Compline (night prayers) and pilgrim blessing at 9:30 before bed. Fortunately we had been given the heads up from another pilgrim that dinners were silent. It was unusual / a bit awkward to eat a whole meal without saying a word. Thankfully there was music. And we were allowed to smile at each other! Then, as we left the dining area the monks chatted freely with us and invited us to sit in the garden for a chat and were very pleasant.

    Until Wednesday…    Read more

  • Camino
    21

    Rabanal “Retreat”

    May 23, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 19 °C

    Today was such a rejuvenating day. The “retreat” was really just giving us the time and peaceful space to reflect and rest. We join the monks for their prayers 4 times a day in their Gregorian chant. We started getting the hang of it - singing in Latin!Then we have silent dinner and lunch but there was a chatty breakfast.
    The meals are very good! For lunch today we had a chicken & veggie soup followed by roast pork fillet and a yummy red wine and carrot sauce. For dinner tonight we had such a well made Risotto with mushrooms.
    The monastery has several quiet rooms. We were in the library with a good English section so we were able to choose what we wanted to read or reflect on our notes during the Camino to get perspective.
    It was also good strolling through the beautiful village which unlike so many others is full of life. There are a number of picture today - all of the village.

    The monks, a Spaniard, a Korean and a German are so welcoming and there is absolutely no “push” so it is all up to us. They have a monastery in South Africa (Cedara and Vryheid).

    There was an amazing turnout at Vespers tonight, probably 50 people!

    See you on the walking path tomorrow with new shoes    Read more

  • Camino
    2Cruz de Ferro
    2Cruz de FerroMorning country soundsStones at Cruz de FerroCaravan cafe where we bought our picnic lunch1Picnic lunch spotTop of the CaminoOn our way down11El Acebo, our village for the night2We made it to sunset

    El Acebo ( 16.6km / 546.7km)

    May 24, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 12 °C

    Looks may be deceiving … Today we started at an elevation of around 1200m, we ended at around 1200m 16km down the road. That should take us about 4 hours with a second breakfast stop! Well, it didn’t …
    In between all that we claimed to an elevation of 1580m, the highest point on the Camino, and then walked all the way back down again! We are back in the mountains which means beautiful views, slower walking and rocky paths at times. The views and scenery are worth the extra work. Tomorrow we keep going down to about 500m so I’m sure there will be some whinging tomorrow about sore knees or something.
    Oh, and yes, the new shoes did their job, tested on all these surfaces was a baptism of fire! NO New blisters today …
    At the top of the hill there is an Iron Cross. Pilgrims leave a rock or something from home at the cross, a symbolic discarding of some baggage or saying goodbye. It was quite moving there seeing all the rocks and messages and for some people discarding some real baggage. While we were there a lady placed a series of shells with names and had a little cry! We are constantly reminded what a privileged life we have had when we see other’s pain.
    Leaving our Monastery was also a lovely moment as the 3 monks and fellow pilgrims were there to say goodbye after morning prayers. It is so odd how good friendships can be formed in such a short time on the Camino when everyone’s open to it.
    We are staying in a lovely mountain village tonight and views from our Albergue are incredible. We are going to have to really try hard to be up for sunset (9:30pm) as I think it will be worth it. We had lovely catch up drinks with Tammy and James, who are on a similar time line to us so we will be seeing a lot more of them    Read more

  • Camino
    4Templar Castle
    4Templar Castle1See the wind turbines at sunriseAcebo Albergue4Wooden balconyRocky downhill pathMolinaseca1Templar castleLa Encina Basilica

    Ponferrada (15.2km / 561.9km)

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 25 °C

    We couldn’t stop taking photos on this walk. Starting with the sunrise behind the mountain and then the gorgeous landscape as we descended into the valley. The scenery helped keep our minds off the steep downhills! At times the path was very rocky and we had to walk quite slowly.
    They were difficult walking conditions but we managed well and the new shoes continued to do well! Such long steep downhills have taken their toll on many walkers doing too much too fast so we were happy to be in good shape at the end.
    The architecture in the villages was unique to the area with timber cantilever balconies into the stone walls. Amazing they have lasted so long.
    We stopped at the bottom for a coffee and cake before heading into Ponferrada (Albergue Guiana). After showering and washing clothes we were starving so decided to get a series of Tapas for our main meal of the day including a yummy Salad, calamari, chorizo, spicy potato and red peppers!
    We then visited the Medieval Templar Castle. Not castle ruins for a change but a complete castle. It was sooooo impressive and regarded as the finest in Spain. I’m sure it is the scene of many movies! Just thinking the Templars and the castle were purely there to protect the pilgrims is quite humbling.
    We headed into the reasonably modern city for some necessary purchases before going to mass in the Basilica and then ending the day with Churros at last! The churros were average but the chocolate sauce was like a light mousse. James and Tammy joined us as we will be in different villages for the next week. The prices are really reasonable too! I can’t remember when I last paid euro 2.50 for a whisky or 1.80 for a glass of wine.
    We are really enjoying the shorter distances now as we arrive at our destination at 1pm or so and still have energy to walk around the town.    Read more

  • Camino
    Rainy day
    Rainy dayNote the storks nest at the topIs Jane stealing cherries??1Last Supper ceiling in church - Nuestra senora de la asuncionThe Florida / Dominican couple in frontOctopus1CacebelosIglesia de nuestra senora de la plazaOur prize winning wineCacebelos flowersView from our room. Caplla San RoqueMussels and Pulpo (Octopus)

    Cacabelos (15.7km / 577.6km)

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ☁️ 21 °C

    For the first time we left in the rain. Very soft drizzle really but we got to use our wet weather gear. We had a few short light showers so no real problem.
    We had a very chatty day somehow. Although we have had several meals with one couple, today we walked with them for a couple of hours and the conversation was very different. When walking it is amazing how people are less guarded and more open to various topics. Then, on the last section we met a couple from Florida and the ladies paired up and left us guys to do the same. A very interesting man, a specialist gastroenterologist physician who was born in the Dominican Republic and was happy to take me through their history as a nation under various colonialists and ultimately independence. Time and miles flew by. The ladies ended up walking and talking with a local who was out walking her dog!
    One of the churches in the small village of Fuentes Neuvas had a beautiful “last supper” painting on the ceiling. Really unexpected in an otherwise ordinary place.
    As we head west, the food is definitely getting better and better, especially the seafood. We had octopus and mussels as part of our lunch which was lovely. We saw the octopus being prepared in a large barrel a bit later - seems to be a local thing.
    We went for a stroll in the evening and it started to rain so we popped into a bar and ordered a sparkling mineral water each. We were the only ones in the bar and the owner gave us all his attention. We had heard the local wine was good so we asked him for some. He was delighted and gave us the full story of the wine and how it had won awards etc- but it was in rather passionate Spanish so not sure we got it all! Anyway the wine was lovely!
    All up, Cacebelos surprised us and is bigger and nicer than expected. A town with life and well presented buildings.    Read more

  • Camino
    2Getting better at Selfies
    2Getting better at SelfiesChurreria2First breakfastTostados wirh tomato garlic spread and smoked hamStatue in CasabelosOld olive pressMy Spanish is improving- I could translate all for Jane!Hmmmm1A holly tree!Castle in Villafranca del BiezoThe Holy Door (only 1 outside of Santiago for benefit of those too sick to make it to Santiago)1St Francisco - he passed through on his pilgrimage 800 years ago)Locals playing BolleCastle1Idyllic sceneryVillafranco

    Villafranca del Bierzo (9.5km / 586.1km)

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 17 °C

    Today was definitely a “gentle stroll”. I can see I am going to have to define the differences between all the walk descriptions but that is for another day. Gentle pace, short distance, no time pressure and idyllic scenery. We wanted to spend time in Villafranco so we planned a short day giving tourist time.
    We had a late start and slept in until 7:15! First breakfast was coffee and churros at a “Churreria” - it is all they make. They were lovely but didn’t really tick the nutritional box so we had a fairly short walk to our second breakfast, about 80m! More coffee tostados and orange juice this time.
    The walk was [insert superlative adjective of choice]. We literally walked through vineyards and cherry tree lined roads. The video will do it justice. It certainly didn’t inspire a fast pace and we just loved it.
    Villafranca is in a valley with a decent sized river, some pretty steep hills and winding streets. Not sure about google maps “mostly flat” descriptions. So it is beautiful but it is at the bottom which means climbing out! We have a couple of days of hills before a big climb at the end of Monday’s walk and the start of Tuesday’s.
    There are at least 4 large churches (including one founded by St Francis when he was a Pilgrim 800 years ago) but they were all closed which was disappointing and a private castle. Very impressive! On our way back after dinner, we did pop into the biggest church, Colegiata de Santa Maria de Cluni, which was beautiful and some lovely statues. But the church was filling up very quickly for Confirmations, which makes sense being Pentecost tomorrow, so we didn’t stick around too long.
    We were hoping for processions for Pentecost but that doesn’t seem to be happening. We will make it to our destination tomorrow for Mass as Sunday Masses are at 12pm.    Read more

  • Camino
    Caza Susi
    Caza SusiVillafrancaTunnelA well protected walkwayTrees growing out of houseGetting closerTrabadeloTrabadelo church for Pentecost massHad to take a pictureCaza Suzi veggie patch1Numbing feetRiver at Casa SuziCaza Susi from the river1

    Trabadelo (9.7km / 595.8km)

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 13 °C

    Today we had planned to stay at Caza Susi, owned by an Aussie who has walked 11 Caminos! She made the most delicious meal from home grown veggies and her partner, Fermin was a delightful Spanish host who was able to tell some good local stories and fill in some info gaps on Spain. The Camino is their calling and it works its magic! Susi bought the house and has renovated it beautifully. The downstairs area used to be an old barn where the animals would have been kept. They have changed it into a big dormitory with 10 beds. It still has the barn feel.
    It was another memorable evening of pilgrims sitting together sharing a meal (and plenty of local wine) and stories. There are always 1 or 2 with inspiring stories or heartwarming stories to tell. Tonight our hosts joined us for the meal and then there were 3 from France, 3 from Australia (incl us) 3 from US and 1 from Wales! It lived up to our hopes.
    We only had a short walk because we wanted to stay here and it was worth it but we will pay with a longer walk tomorrow.
    Our walk was mostly along the river and we got here in time for the 12pm mass which is only here every couple of weeks, as the priest had 17 villages he looks after. Then a lovely lunch at a Vegan restaurant (In Spain) and then the heavens opened! The rain kept us indoors but we managed to numb our feet in the cold river at the bottom of the property where they grow their crops.
    We really are feeling relaxed and peaceful at this stage of the Camino!    Read more

  • Camino
    Long steep hill climb
    Long steep hill climbA misty morning startChurch at La Portela was openWe followed the river for 10km1Delicious free cherriesShaded paths are a real treatA bit of mud1Some rocky parts1Zoom into the door to see cows. Barn below, home aboveSharing the path with the cows11A good climbFrom our Albergue1Happy Birthday Dad - R.I.P

    Laguna de Castilla (16.2km /612km)

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ☁️ 18 °C

    Now that was a climb! Not too long but steep and on some interesting surfaces including road, sandy path, mud, rocks and lots of cow poo! But thankfully mostly shady in the really steep bits. We climbed 2/3 of the “hill” to our accommodation to Laguna. Tomorrow we climb to the peak and onwards.
    With hills we get beautiful scenery and some hard work. Too many pictures to choose from! At times we had to share the path with cows and horses! Before the hill the walk was slightly uphill along the river for about 10km to Las Hereirras where we refuelled with some coffee and cake!
    We had drinks and dinner with a couple of people we met at Susi’s place last night, Clare (Wales) and Laure (France) and a lady we met today (Bea).
    The villages and towns seem to be in much better condition the further we go with a lot more renovated buildings and active lifestyle.
    On a personal note, today was my dad’s (Brian) birthday so we popped into a church on our way to say a prayer. Rest In Peace Dad ❤️, you would have loved todays walk.    Read more

  • Camino
    1
    11Sunrise on tne climb to O Cebrero1More climbingCrossing the border into Galacia1At O CebreiroDaisies everywhereThe last climb of the dayOur dinner venueDinner

    Fonfria (13.8km / 625.8km)

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 10 °C

    We left just as the sun was coming up and the views over the valley and the mountains were breathtaking. The only sounds to be heard were birds and cow bells. The path was dry despite a little rain the day before and not too bad. We entered into our final Spanish province - Galicia and miraculously the path improved for our upward trudge to O’Cebreiro, an idyllic mountain village. The recordings of band pipes reminding us of its Celtic past. We had our 1st breakfast here, and the little coffee shop was packed with pilgrims. We continued along the stunning path, up and down a couple of hills, stopping continuously to take photos until we reached our destination of Fonfria which is a typical Galician village.
    On the walk we met our first South Africans! A retired couple from near Paarl who said this is the cheapest way to travel in Europe!
    We had a drink before dinner with our new friends and were surprised to see and old friend “Roberto!”. We went to a separate building fir a great communal dinner. The building was built 25 years ago using traditional building methods. A large circular building with thatched roof. We ended with a cheeky Spanish brandy before bed!    Read more

  • Camino
    Walking on clouds
    Walking on clouds1Muddy tracksWe didnt have to walk in this track1Home made fencesA 800 year old chestnut12Choices1Samos monastery21

    Samos (18.8km / 644.6km)

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 12 °C

    Today we were walking on clouds. We descended from 1300m to 600 and when we started we were above the clouds. It was so beautiful. Shannon called us and we had to stop 3 times to show her the view! It is just the best walking in the mountains with the green hills, flowers and views. After second breakfast at the bottom of the mountain we walked along the river to Samos. I think the walk description was written by an optimist describing the river walk through tree lined paths. They forgot to mention the rolling hills which is code for up and down and up and down and …. You get the picture. When we finally turned the corner and saw the monastery we were very relieved.
    Samos is home to the largest monetary in Spain, with cloisters 50m in length. We took a guided tour followed by mass. It was beautiful although not as welcoming as the other monasteries.
    We had delicious food for lunch at a local restaurant/ pub and returned for a desert and a Spanish brandy after mass and before bed.
    All in all a lovely day of beautiful scenery, solid walking, tasty food, interesting sites and good company.    Read more