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Camino

April - June 2023
“May our eyes be opened to what is not seen” Read more
  • 72footprints
  • 4countries
  • 69days
  • 1.2kphotos
  • 54videos
  • 19.0kkilometers
  • 16.8kkilometers
  • 962kilometers
  • 789kilometers
  • 248kilometers
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  • Camino
    12112
    Day 12

    Puente la Reina (14.6km / 90.4km)

    April 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today was a lovely walk - perfect weather. We had a quick stand up breakfast before starting on our way. We ascended the hill out of town and through the middle of the wind turbines. We reached the summit of Alto del Perdon, where there is an impressive monument to Pilgrims with stunning views back over towards Pamplona. We had a coffee break at Uterga and then elected to do a short detour (1.7 km) to Eunate to see the very well preserved Romanesque Church of Santa Maria built in the 12 Century. Wonderful acoustics - A pilgrim sang Salve Regina - beautiful. We continued on through Obanos before reaching our destination for the night at Albergue Padres Reparadores ( 100 beds split into open dorms) in Puente la Reina (Queens bridge which was built to support the safe movement of the increasing number of medieval pilgrims). It is located opposite the Church of the Crucifixtion. We walked through the ancient town and caught up with some Spanish pilgrims from a few days back, found a spot for lunch before heading back to the Albergue for a much needed shower.
    At the end of mass at Iglesia San Pedro (there are 3 churches within a stones throw) the priest invited the pilgrims up for a blessing and gave us each a cross on a necklace. He then invited us into his office to stamp our Camino passports. What a lovely gesture.
    Time for a meal and then bed …    Read more

  • Camino
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    12115242
    Day 13

    Villateurta (18km / 108.4km)

    April 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our entire walk was through farmlands today. The numerous wild poppies reminding us that today is Anzac Day - honouring those who served Australia and New Zealand in battle.

    We passed through wheatfields, canola, olive groves, new and established vineyards, “mange-tout” snowpeas and other beans.

    An amazing combination to the farms were the ancient Roman roads, bridges and tunnels we passed through on our journey.

    Cirauqui was one of the towns we passed through, a medieval hilltop village made more famous in the movie “The Way”. A stunning backdrop as we approached.

    We spoilt ourselves with a private room and our own bathroom in Villateurta, ( Casa Magica), a restored medieval building and were treated to a home made Paella with other pilgrims and the now obligatory vino!

    A quiet evening turned on its head when a Group of about 15 Portuguese men arrived! They found some musical instruments and the concert began. They sang some traditional Portuguese revolution songs and ….? A lovely evening.    Read more

  • Camino
    111
    Day 14

    Villamayor de Monjardin (13.1km/121.5km)

    April 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We only had a 13k walk today so stopped and explored along the way. The terrain has started to change from lush farmlands to more stony rock. The next few days will be interesting to see the gradual change.
    In Ayegui, there is a free wine and water fountain. We had a sample of wine at 10am! We went into the refreshingly cool and peaceful cloisters and church of the monastery of Irache before setting off in the now rather warm weather for a steady uphill walk. We had a much needed lunch break at Azqueta before tackling the steep uphill to our next stop, Villamayor de Monjardin, where we met up with now familiar friends, having a salt foot bath and a beer while we caught up. The Oasis Albergue (accomodates 21, our room had 5) is run by volunteers with a strong community spirit and they provided a lovely terrace meal as the sun was setting. The meal was cooked by a Portuguese volunteer. The evening ended with a meditation.    Read more

  • Camino
    1
    Day 15

    Torres del Rio (19.6km / 141.1km)

    April 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We packed up in the dark while our roommates (a Pom Elderly Mum and her son) still slept. Had a takeaway breakfast and were on our way. The heat set in quite soon and not much shade but thankfully a fairly flat day. We were distracted by talking to other pilgrims along the way, getting to know quite a few now and we keep cross crossing paths. It was a long stretch of 12 km before our first town, Los Arcos, where we had a much needed “2nd breakfast”. It took some time to learn our coffee order but we are now enjoying the espresso coffee. We had a beautiful backdrop of Iglesia de Santa Maria. We set off again in the heat and had a much needed freshly squeezed orange juice at Sansol before our final short leg to our destination for the day at Torres del Rio. We treated ourselves to a private room (and bathroom), so really enjoyed the beautiful shower before adventuring out. We had a look at the exquisite Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro linked to the Knights Templar and based on the octagonal church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. We forced ourselves to have a much needed beer at one of the terraces linked to an Albergue with plenty of chattering pilgrims, and then another before a lovely communal dinner - this time with no other pilgrims that we had met before, from a variety of countries. I am sure we will meet plenty of them somewhere along the way …..Read more

  • Camino
    2
    Day 16

    Logrono (20.2km / 161.3km)

    April 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We got an early start without bothering fellow pilgrims in our private room with our own en-suite!! Our target for the day was to get to the Albergue Parroquoil de Santiago in Logrono early enough to get a bed! It is the Albergue run by the local parish volunteers, so we had breakfast at sunrise.
    We decided to walk alone today so A could get to the Albergue at opening time without rushing J. Apart from the “knee wrecking” decent out of the town, It was supposed to be an easy 20km walk but we both found it hard on our feet. Anyway, we got a bed this time.
    Highlights along the way were the food caravan selling coffee and snacks, a busker playing his Spanish guitar as we climbed a hill. J made a couple of wrong turns but redirected by locals, one who was driving a tractor and hooted madly.
    We both appreciated the breeze at our back encouraging us along at the end of the day - The Holy Spirit responding to the blessings (May the wind always be at your back…)
    We strolled really really slowly around the town to enjoy a cold beer and some Pinchos. The Cathedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda was incredibly large and decorated.
    The volunteers encouraged us all to attend mass at 7:30 at iglisia de Santiago el Real, , followed by a communal meal and then back to the church for Albergue community evening prayers through a secret tunnel from the Albergue into the church.

    Washing the dishes after dinner was an entertaining automated process.

    Good night !    Read more

  • Camino
    211
    Day 17

    Ventosa (19.5km / 180.8km)

    April 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    That was the most active night outside our Albergue! It was Friday night and the locals came out to play Lograno! The wildlife could still be heard at 4am. Not sure if it was something special or a normal Friday night!
    We had a much slicker pack up process in the shared rooms and set off early and stopped at a local bakery on the way.
    The walk was through the city to exit (a lot more noise than we have been used to) and then past the dam and into vineyard territory. We only passed one town Navarrete where we had lunch and popped into yet another stunning church (Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asunción) for such small town. Then a beautiful approach to our destination, Ventosa. After the regular process of check-in (they couldn’t find our reservation for a private room but luckily had a bed in an 8 bed dorm, shower, wash clothes, dry and then head off to the town for a drink / dinner.
    We ate with an NZ couple at 1 of the 2 dining options in town then back for an early night. Beunos Noches!    Read more

  • Camino
    1
    112
    Day 18

    Najere (10.3km / 190km)

    April 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today was half walk / half rest. Our walk was mostly walking through vineyards with some lovely cloud formations. A relaxing walk! We even had a song just for us from a busker en route!
    We arrived in Najare as a medieval festival was starting. They had period dressing, games, food and the odd parade. It was still going strong as we headed home from dinner for bed. Some lovely and not so lovely local delicacies. The chorizo burger and Santiago cake hit the spot but not sure about the “pig cheek”!
    We went to Sunday mass at 1pm in yet another impressive local church. We visited the Monasterio de Santa María la Real which was built in the 12th century and rebuilt in the 15th. We were able to go into the cloisters, incredibly high ceiling church and the sepulchre (tomb).
    We caught up for drinks and dinner with 2 new sets of pilgrims. It’s amazing how, in the middle of a busy town you can spot a fellow pilgrim and you can just go and invite yourself to join them!

    Until tomorrow …    Read more

  • Camino
    1111
    Day 19

    Santa Domingo de la Calzada (20.7/210.7)

    May 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A perfect day’s walk that went exactly to plan! A clear cool day with more luscious farmlands with a coffee stop after 5km, lunch after 15 and at our accommodation by 3pm.
    The farming activity is so impressive. The scale is mind- boggling. Day after day we walk through the farms and vineyards and they stretch as far as the eye can see. The farms look organised and neat and every bit if land is used or ploughed for next year. Harvesting season must be full on.
    There don’t seem to be farmhouses so we guess they all live in the villages and work the farms. Also guessing that the farms are owned by co-operatives or organisations but we will research more.
    Tomorrow we are having a tourist / rest day and spending 2 nights here at Hospederia Cistercience. A Cistercian retreat house.
    We spent the afternoon and evening walking around the old town, had a drink and dinner with a Pilgrim we met a week ago who is struggling a bit and then went to the mass which was the commencement of the 2 week celebrations of the feast days of Santa Domingo who took care of Pilgrims. Lots of singing and a full church. We had seen the procession go past while having dinner before mass.
    Looking forward to a relax day tomorrow!    Read more

  • Camino
    21
    Day 20

    Santa Domingo de la Calzada - rest day

    May 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A rejuvenating day spent in Santa Domingo de la Cazada. A late start with a coffee with Pilgrims walking through from the previous village and a bit of top up shopping while waiting for our washing. Then a slow paced tourist day including visits up the tower (see the video of the bells ringing at 12), Abbey of Saint Francis, the Cathedral of El Salvador and then the church, Emita de la Plaza (hermit of the square). The artwork and architecture are incredible and such a treat to have the time to appreciate it all. Some of the original city walls and cobbled streets are still in existence.
    The town is really a dedication to Saint Domingo whose calling was to serve Pilgrims, especially focussed on the engineered elements (roads, bridges). His most famous miracle involved a rooster (see photo for explanation) and as a result there is a rooster in the church that crowed while we were in the Cathedral (see video). These roosters are carefully looked after and are descendants of the original rooster.
    We had a lovely day of sightseeing, food and drink without being rushed. We ended the day with mass at the Cathedral, big crowds again (a novena said before each Mass until the real celebration to celebrate St Domingo day on 10th May) and then a meal at the Hospederia Cistercience where the nuns served us both breakfast and dinner), and catching up with some new pilgrims who were also having dinner.    Read more

  • Camino
    21
    Day 21

    Belorado (22.6km / 233.3km)

    May 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We left at Sunrise as a hot day was predicted and we had a lot of ground to cover. An absolutely gorgeous morning with the beautiful farmlands we’ve become accustomed to gave a spring to our step. We walked with a lovely Frenchman and reached our coffee stop (7km) in no time.
    They had a caravan at the entrance to the village and a garden area to sit.
    After breakfast we walked very close to the main road with trucks, cars and dust! On the Camino!! We passed through so many villages today, some less than 2km apart which made it seem shorter somehow.
    We pushed through to have a late lunch and left only 5km for the last stretch.
    The town of Belorado has many murals to liven up the town which seems to have many empty apartments?
    We were both happy that we did a relatively long day without too much trouble - the only thing is the “feet”!
    We tucked into the Pilgrim meal of the day chatting to a Dutch couple next to us and then hit bed!    Read more

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