South-East Asia 2016

June - December 2016
A 181-day adventure by Joel Read more
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  • Day 30

    Day 30: Exploring Singapore

    July 15, 2016 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    A little sleep in this morning before a buffet breakfast at the sister hotel around the corner. I should almost mention that our hotel room is comically small, I think about 14 square metres? It's basically the width of a queen size bed plus maybe half a metre. We knew it was small (and hotel rooms in Singapore generally are, particularly at our end of the budget scale) so we weren't too surprised, but it's still funny how small it actually is. Oh well, we weren't planning on spending much time here in the room anyway.

    First stop today was walking about 500m down the road to Chinatown where we'd stayed in 2011. As we hadn't done much exploring on that trip we were determined to see a lot more of the city, so we spent the first hour or so just wandering the little alleys and streets, looking in shops and generally feeling impressed. It's such a huge change from Jakarta in that there are actual sidewalks you can use, there isn't rubbish and stench everywhere, lots of English is spoken, plenty of westerners so you aren't constantly being gawked at and so on. Singapore is a society where people Behave Responsibly and Follow The Rules, which I guess is a big tick in my book.

    We diverted into a large Chinese Buddhist temple to see a fascinating relic - one of Buddha's teeth. I'm not sure how they know it's actually one of his teeth (the Buddha himself lived several hundred years BC), but it's certainly impressive. The temple itself has four storeys, each with different meanings and galleries - eg one about the temple, one about Buddhism the religion and the Buddha's life and times, and finally on the top floor the relic itself. Housed in a massive stupa of pure gold, it was both ostentatious and impressive. You can't get that close to it as it's in a separate controlled room (sort of like the Mona Lisa these days), but they have TV screens showing you a live close-up. Also checked out the orchid garden on the roof which was quite nice.

    We'd spent a while in the temple and it was 11:30am by the time we left. Conveniently we were very close to Maxwell Road Hawker Centre, which is a large warehouse marketplace with permanent food carts. The best-known is Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice, which had a line probably 100 people long. It's been there for 30 years and has featured in many travel/eating shows like Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. We decided to try it, so Shandos hopped in line while I acquired fruit juices and a table.

    Happy to report that the food was amazing - Hainan chicken rice is basically a serve of steamed rice that's been flavoured with chicken broth, and topped with steamed chicken breast. The chicken itself is steamed at a low temperature, meaning that it's unbelievably soft and tender - delicious! And an absolute steal at $4 each for a medium sized plate. Not long after we left Maxwell Centre it started to rain quite heavily, so we took shelter and figured a plan to switch sides of the city.

    The underground was only a short scurry through the rain, and we puzzled our way through the ticket purchase and hopped straight on a train to Bugis Junction, adjacent to the Arab Street district, historically the home of Singaporean Muslims and the community of Arabs who'd come here as traders.

    Over here at Arab Lane there was another great community of little shops, bars, restaurants and galleries which we spent a couple of hours immersing ourselves in. Found a gallery exhibiting works from super famous anime artists like Miyazaki and the guy who originally drew Astro Boy. Thankfully the rain had cleared up though it still looked threatening, and we retreated to a British-themed cafe called The Mad Sailor. I had a Ribena & mint slushie which was amazing, while Shandos had an apple & rhubarb soda.

    More wandering into the Muslim district followed, checking out the mosque and more buildings, though I viciously stubbed my toe on a small step while I was reading the map and had difficulty walking for a bit. Eventually we called time on our exploration (it was nearly 5pm by this point), but agreed to walk back to the hotel. It was actually not that far, only about 1.5km and mostly through the old downtown where we hadn't been. Walked directly past Raffles at about the time we needed a break, so we agreed that it was splurge time!

    Off we went to the world-famous Long Bar, waited about 10 minutes and despite our (probably) dishevelled and sweaty appearance, we were in! I guess standards have slipped these days. We both ordered the famous Singapore Sling, which was very tasty and packed a bit of a punch, though $31 plus tax is an outrageous price for a cocktail. Resumed our trek back to the office after passing the National Gallery and the Parliament, though skipped going in to both.

    One consequence of the time zone change is that the sun goes down at a much more reasonable hour - we arrived back in our room at 6:15pm, still almost an hour before sunset. We had showers and freshened up before going back out in search of dinner and another drink or two. There's a speakeasy behind an unmarked door around the corner from our hotel that's apparently one of the best cocktail bars in the world, but they didn't have a spare menu for us to look at and it was a 45 minute wait for a table anyway, so we kept moving.

    We're staying at Clarke Quay which is a large waterfront area, around the area where the old harbour becomes a narrow river. It's a pretty touristy area like Darling Harbour, though there seemed to be plenty of office workers around too - it is a Friday night after all! Found a brewery that also served food and settled on that despite - again - extortionate prices. This place did something I've never seen before - timed drink prices. Your schooner is $6 between 12-3pm, $10 between 3-7pm and $15 after 7pm. Go figure!

    Alas it was after 7pm but I still ordered a pint of their in-house Irish Red Ale, while Shandos had the golden ale. We both ordered burgers and I had the double-meat one of course, topped with bean chilli, sauteed onions, bacon and American cheese which was humongous but amazingly tasty. Easily the best burger I've had since visiting Rockpool a few days before leaving Sydney. Since the drinks were so expensive we opted against another round and headed back to our hotel tired at about 10pm.

    Looking forward to tomorrow - Singapore didn't impress me much on our previous visit but I'm liking it a lot more this time around!
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  • Day 31

    Day 31: More Exploring in Singapore

    July 16, 2016 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    What a long day! First stop on the agenda was the Future World and Big Bang Data exhibits at the Art Science Museum (the orchid-shaped building in front of Marina Bay Sands). We had tickets for entry at 11:30, but we left our hotel anyway at around 10 and decided to walk over. It was a nice walk though very hot and sweaty even at this early hour, since it was entirely on the waterfront promenades which are of course paved and completely exposed.

    Arrived at the museum around 10:45 and tackled the Big Data exhibit first, which was quite interesting. There were installations mostly about how big data is captured and generated, and just the staggering amounts of the modern era and how it can be used or mis-used. There was an interesting display about the undersea cables as well which form the back-bones of the internet - mapping them out, showing you who was responsible for them etc. Lots of cool infographics from history too - apparently Florence Nightingale was once of the first people to do visual representations of her data! She used it to demonstrate more soldiers in Crimean war were dying from post-combat infections and diseases than from combat. All up it was a very interesting side exhibit and we were very glad we went.

    We tackled the main FutureWorld exhibit starting at about 11:45 - it was split into four parts of nature, town, water and space. Each part had a couple of interactive installations within the theme of how the world and the future will collide in that area. So for example in the nature section, there was a huge 180 degree video screen where you lay on beanbags in front of it. The screen displayed a Mambo-style animation of islands in a sea; gradually the sea level rises to the top of the screen and the islands are no more. Making a point about climate change and rising sea levels obviously - a big concern I guess in a small island nation though they have the money to plan their way out of it.

    The middle two parts were mostly interactive and kid-focused, but one interesting thing in both areas was an interactive video wall. You grabbed a sheet of pre-printed paper with a particular vehicle (I chose a fighter jet and Shandos a UFO), coloured it in with crayons and then scanned it. Once your vehicle had gone through the scanner, it would show up in 3D on the video wall as part of a giant city-scape with everyone else's vehicles driving around. I was glad I didn't draw a cock & balls or something on mine!

    But the highlight was the last part - space. It was a large room filled with chains of LED lights hanging from the ceiling in a grid pattern, and a narrow walkway through the centre. Imagine those beaded door-curtains people used to use in the 80s, now add LEDs and fill an entire room, and you're most of the way there. This room provided what felt like a three-dimensional model of the universe, with stars and galaxies dotted around. The colours pulsated and whirled, the music swelled and faded, and there were a couple of special effects like a waterfall strobe and a clap (where the lights would go sequentially from the floor and ceiling in time, meeting in the middle as the music clapped). It was sensational, and both of us stood there for probably 15 minutes in awe. This alone was worth the $25 admission ticket, and highly recommended for anyone going to Singapore.

    By now it was 2pm and high time for lunch. We wandered into the nearby shopping mall underneath the Sands, and found a small hawker-style food court buried right in one corner. It was very reasonably priced, so we weren't surprised it was hidden away! The stores in here look ridiculously expensive - mostly high end fashion brands like Louis Vuitton targeted at cashed up Chinese tourists. On that note, there are quite a lot of Chinese tourists here which isn't surprising as there's a large expat community (indeed the reason Singapore seceded from Malaysia was because the latter wanted to discriminate against Chinese migrants in favour of Malays). The "huge bus tour" thing doesn't seem to be as common here for them, but still plenty of people following a flag or whatever and talking loudly. I was reminded of our driver in Bali, Putu, who said that Chinese tourists always sounded to him like ducks going quack quack quack.

    Freshly lunched up from a noodle soup, we headed across the lobby of the hotel (very fancy!!) and into the Gardens By The Bay, a huge botanic gardens type area just behind the hotel that's freely open to the public. We wandered slowly around here for the next few hours checking out the displays; Chinese gardens, colonial gardens, Indian gardens and so on. Very interesting. Opted against going into the large flower pavilion and the rainforest pavilion - the latter looked interesting but you can only buy a combined ticket and it was $25! So we skipped.

    The centre section of the Garden is taken up by "super trees" - man-made constructs in the shape of a tree. These have greenery on the outside, but perform vital functions for the park like heating water, collecting solar energy via rooftop panels, mulching and so on. There was a huge series of tedious diagrams which we politely examined for a moment and moved on. You could have a drink at the top of the tallest super tree for the bargain price of $18, but rather than go here we figured we'd just go all out and visit the cocktail bars atop the Marina Bay Sands hotel instead. It was 5pm by this point - that's definitely drinks time!

    Wandered over, found our way up to the top and despite being quite under-dressed, they gave us a prime balcony position overlooking the city and the sunset right when the bar opened at 6pm. Pints of local beer were an eye-watering $20, but we decided we'd get comfortable for a couple of hours to watch the sunset so that's what we did! Took a bunch of photos which hopefully look OK. I had a second pint while Shandos followed her sparkling rose with a mojito, and then we ordered a pair of $12 pork & prawn sliders too which were absolutely delicious.

    We stayed up here for a couple of hours, watching the sun set and the lights in the city start to come on. Left at about 7:45 as we wanted to go on the SkyWalk - an elevated walkway between some of the supertrees - and the last ticket sales were at 8pm. Hustled back there just in time for the ticket office to refuse us service as although it was 7:58, there were already too many people waiting to ascend and they wouldn't get through any more people by closing time. Alas!

    Wandered a little more around the park taking photos in the dark, before grabbing a good position for the ~GARDEN SPECTACULAR~ show where the trees light up in time with music and stuff. It was a bit tacky and kitsch, especially since the song mainly seemed to be about how great Singapore is, but still a fun experience.

    Very tired and footsore (by now it's 9pm), we walked back to the metro station nearby and caught the train four stops back to Clarke Quay. Shared a curried mutton martabak from a popular Indian takeaway a few doors from our hotel - very cheap and very tasty! Jumping in the shower to wash off all the day's accumulated grime and sweat is one of life's greatest feelings. It's now 11pm and I'm finished writing my diary. Time to collapse into bed!

    And I think I'm going to skip wearing thongs tomorrow - my iPhone pedometer reckons I walked about 25,000 steps today (about 17km)!
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  • Day 32

    Day 32: Last day in Singapore

    July 17, 2016 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Accidentally slept in quite late this morning, and only just made it down to breakfast by 10:30 am when it closes! The only thing we really had planned for today was meeting up with a former colleague of mine from GALKAL who now runs the Singapore operation. By the time we finished breakfast it was 11am so we decided to wander over to the National Gallery and check out a modernism exhibition we'd noticed a couple of days earlier.

    Arrived at the gallery to discover that it was the last day of the exhibition so entry was free! It was called "Reframing Modernism", and compared the modernist styles of European artists like Picasso, Matisse and others with South East Asian artists from the same period. Spent a couple of hours looking at the various paintings and comparing the styles. We ended up doing it out of order as there was a large guided tour going through at roughly the same time as us, making it very crowded! So we did the second and third halls first before coming back to the third. Also very happy to see a ban on selfie sticks which are absolutely everywhere here!

    While waiting for Shandos at one point I logged on to the gallery's free wifi, and noticed an email from my colleague saying she was unwell and wouldn't be able to make the meet-up as planned. Disappointing, as I was looking forward to seeing a familiar face and having a decent conversation with someone who wasn't Shandos, but alas. At least we had more time in the gallery!

    Finished looking at the art and had a quick sandwich at the cafe before deciding to head for the Botanic Gardens. I've got this idea in my head that I'm going to visit as many UNESCO World Heritage Sites as possible while we travel, and this is one of them. In fact it's one of only I think four gardens on the list of 1100+ locations, and the only tropical garden.

    So we descended into the metro just nearby, bought some tickets and followed the trains out to the Botanic Gardens stop. I should mention here that the metro is fantastic in Singapore - trains are every few minutes and the stations cover the downtown/interesting areas quite densely. We've never had to walk more than a few hundred metres to a station, though some of the junction stations have quite long walks between platforms.

    By the time we emerged from the underground, the ominous clouds I'd noticed on leaving the gallery had turned into a full-on thunderstorm! Lots of lightning and pelting rain, so we joined a crowd taking shelter at the metro exit, right next to the gardens entrance. It took probably 30 minutes to subside, and by now it was past 4pm. Luckily for us everything stays open late in Singapore!

    Eventually the rain eased off and we wandered into the gardens, which are absolutely beautiful. I'm not a huge gardens person but the care and attention to detail were very obvious. It also seems to be a great park, full of people jogging, walking dogs and having family picnics, rather than just looking at the flowerbeds and moving on. We walked over to the Orchid Garden (the highlight apparently), paid our admission and had a wander around. Again this was excellent - lots of orchids on display in their native-ish habitats ie tropical gardens and so on. There's also a nursery where they cross-breed to create new types of orchids in honour of visiting dignitaries which we found amusing! It started with Very Important People like Kofi Annan or Margaret Thatcher, until down in the back corner there's orchids in honour of the vice-president of Laos and the Petroleum Minister for Equatorial Guinea and so on. Found a couple of "Australian" ones too - one for former GG Michael Jeffrey, and another for Dame Quentin Bryce.

    Finished with the orchid garden around 6:30pm as the sun was beginning to set, so we walked back through the park (a brief diversion at the fish & turtle pond) and hopped back on the metro into town. For dinner we had our hearts set on a local specialty - Singapore Chilli Crab. We figured it might be a little pricey, but I nearly choked when the first restaurant we looked at had a special for $70 per kilo! The next place we checked it was $120/kilo and they had a 90 minute wait! The next place we tried had crabs for $75/kg but the smallest crab they had was about 2.2kg. Our hunt wasn't going very well.

    Eventually we found a place that was doing a fixed price of $108 per crab, so we decided to just get one with some garlic bread and share it, which we did! It's delicious (and not very spicy like the name implies), but like with lobster I'm not certain the deliciousness is completely offset by the amount of effort involved in accessing the meat.

    Although we'd eaten at Clarke Quay only a few hundred metres from our hotel, we walked past a Japanese ice cream parlour and figured we'd spend our last few Singaporean dollars. Shandos had a green tea flavoured ice cream, while I went half traditional and half Asian with macadamia chocolate and lychee (in separate scoops). Finally to bed around 10:30pm after our third day in a row of 25,000 steps! Tomorrow is a bus trip into Malaysia, so not too much walking thankfully!
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  • Day 33

    Day 33: Into Malaysia

    July 18, 2016 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    No sleep in today! Alarms at 7:30am, at breakfast by 8 and showered, packed and out the door before 10. Our coach to Malacca was leaving the bus station at 11 and we needed to be there 30 minutes early, plus it was on the other side of the city. Onto the now-familiar metro's green line, change trains at Little India for the few stops to Bugis Junction, out into the heat and find the bus terminal.

    Collected our tickets no problem, and the bus arrived just before 11. Set off promptly, though it was only about half full. This was a very comfortable coach, with wide padded seats, air conditioning and plenty of space. Luggage down in the hold and my shoulder bag on the rack above, so I was about as comfortable as I could get.

    We drove for about 45 minutes and crossed out of Singapore via the western causeway. It's been a long time since we've crossed a land border and this was very different to the Vietnam/Cambodia border! Going through the departure gates took over an hour by the time we'd queued and made it back to the bus. Across the bridge into Malaysia and it was another 30 minute wait - we got through in basically record time, but this was mostly achieved by shoving through a group of 50+ Indian tourists who were sorting out luggage in front of the entrance. I guess everyone else on the bus was too polite and ended up stuck in the queue behind them! Despite having my bag scanned at multiple airports and customs points now, still nobody has asked me why I'm carrying a huge stash of prescription tablets which seems a little odd! But if it's not a problem, I don't intend to make it one.

    As the bus rolled into Malaysia I reflected a bit on Singapore. I really don't think I gave it a fair shake when I was here five years ago - back then I saw it as inauthentic and too Westernised; like Dubai it's a theme park version of the culture it represents. But I don't think that's fair. We really explored properly this time and found a lot of authentic areas still existing, trading and living as they always have. I also read up a little on Singapore's history, and for it to have come from very little in 1965 to one of the world's leading cities in a generation is nothing short of remarkable. I won't miss the prices, but I'll definitely miss drinkable tap water and the comfort of knowing that 60-70% of conversations and signs are in English.

    Onto the Malay peninsula and I noticed very quickly that the terrain was very different from Indonesia. No rice paddies! At all! I assume there are rice farms in Malaysia, but it certainly isn't grown down here. The coach journey once we cleared customs was pretty uneventful - the driver followed the road rules and stuck to the speed limit, though he had a habit of making loud comments in Malay to nobody in particular.

    Arrived in Malacca at about 4:30pm, nearly 1.5 hours behind schedule but apparently ours was a long stop at immigration. Although we'd paid a little extra to get dropped off near our hotel, the last part of the journey needed to be done via cab, which the bus company paid for. The driver kept the meter off and at the end I just gave him the money the bus driver gave me - no idea if it was a fair fare but it wasn't my money so who cares.

    Of course the taxi driver didn't know our hotel and we didn't know the exact address, so he dropped us a couple of blocks away at a landmark and we navigated the rest of the way on foot. Offline Google Maps is a lifesaver. Our room is very nice and spacious, and even has a balcony overlooking the river! Malacca is an old Dutch and British trading post colony that still has quite a few heritage buildings around.

    After freshening up a little we headed out to check out the town (it was 6:30 by this stage), but most of the shops in the local district were closing up for the day and the food markets we were keen on checking out weren't on! They're only on Friday/Saturday/Sunday, and today was a Monday. Swing and a miss. Managed to find an open restaurant serving Nyonyua cuisine (it's a local hybrid of Malay and Chinese, also indigenous to Penang where we visited in 2015), so we had dinner there and headed back to the hotel. We're two blocks away from a Hard Rock Cafe which I was pretty keen on, but Shandos insisted (that we didn't go there).

    Looking forward to exploring the town tomorrow! We're here for three nights and haven't made any plans beyond that - though flying east to Sarawak is our preferred option at this point.
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  • Day 34

    Day 34: Checking out Malacca

    July 19, 2016 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Woke up at a fairly normal time this morning but had a few errands to do before getting the day off. Firstly our washing situation was becoming critical, so we needed to find a laundry shop. And our efforts the previous evening to find an ATM proved fruitless, so we needed to find one pronto as we had no money and were clearly in a relatively cash-driven area. After a pair of hot tips from a passing motorcyclist and a tourist info officer, we managed to find both facilities okay.

    Malacca is a city with a long and surprising history. Before arriving, I'd assumed it was similar to George Town in Penang which we'd visited last year, but it's actually very different! It was an important trading city and the centre of a sultanate from about the 1100s onwards, until the Portuguese arrived in the 1510s and colonised the place. They occupied the area for about 140 years until the Dutch conquered it in the 1640s, who then ruled for just under 200 years. The Dutch wanted to free up troops and resources to fight off Napoleon's occupation of the Netherlands, and so handed temporary control of the town and area to the British in the 1810s. The British, concerned about giving the Dutch back a strong fortress and trading post sabotaged the place, pushing most of the trade to their settlement at Penang a few hundred kilometres up the coast. In the end, the Dutch didn't want it back so the British kept it until the Japanese conquest in 1941/42 (Malacca fell only a week or so before Singapore). The Japanese occupation ended in 1945 with the return of the British, until Malaysian independence in 1965. So a long and varied history!

    We spent most of the day wandering around the ruins of the old town - there's still a crumbling archway from the original Portuguese fortress, along with a bunch of buildings, churches and graves from the Dutch era as well. The British didn't build much so there wasn't a lot left from their era. We spent quite a bit of time in a couple of museums which were very impressive and very thorough - exhausting even.

    Also found the time to go on the observation tower, which ascends to quite a height, maybe 20 storeys? It takes about a minute to ascend, and stays at the top for about 5 minutes while slowly rotating. Great views from the top, long distances in every direction!

    We retreated from the heat of the day to a cafe and had a cold drink then headed back to the hotel around 5pm. Showering in the evening is just such a necessity in the tropics, even being outside for more than 10 minutes makes me sweaty! Headed back out around 6:30pm, intending to take a river boat ride during sunset and dusk which we'd heard good things about. The dock was only a couple of minutes walk from our hotel, and we made it with time to spare.

    The ride itself was great, 20 minutes each way up and back along the river which is really more of an Amsterdam style canal, complete with ornate lighting and brightly painted buildings. It also went past the amusingly poorly-thought-out monorail that only operated briefly before being shut down. The idea of sticking a monorail in a UNESCO World Heritage listed town honestly makes me shudder! Got some good photos from the boat which was good!

    After the boat ride it was nearly 8pm and definitely time for dinner (though we'd snacked on some pineapple tarts late in the afternoon). Once again we couldn't find much open - I think most tourists come here as a day trip from KL or Singapore so the bulk of the restaurants just don't open in the evening. Once again Shandos vetoed the Hard Rock Cafe, so we had a beer in a small bar overlooking the canal then a laksa dinner at a cafe around the corner from our hotel.

    Looking forward to tomorrow, this town seems to have quite a lot to offer! Today was mostly on the eastern side of the canal, as for whatever reason the western side where the older Chinese community live is mostly closed on Tuesdays. So we'll check out that tomorrow!
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  • Day 35

    Day 35: More exploring in Malacca

    July 20, 2016 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Today we wanted to explore the western side of the river, as yesterday we'd mostly stuck to the colonial eastern side of the river. The day started moderately early at 9am, with a nice walk along the canal following the same route that we'd taken in the boat yesterday evening. We'd seen a lot of street art and colourful decoration on the buildings either side of the river, so off we went. We walked for probably an hour along one bank before reaching a point where we couldn't proceed much further, so turned around and walked back along the opposite bank.

    They've actually done quite a good job here with the canal (apologies I'm using canal and river interchangeably), with ornate fencing, plants and lamps along the edges. Aside from the occasional burned-out hulk or crumbling building it was actually quite picturesque - still a long way from the canals in Amsterdam, but enticing nonetheless. Also saw a couple of very large lizards swimming in the water, both of them were probably close to 2m long!

    Next stop was the Maritime Museum, where there was a large display about Malacca's history inside the hold of a replica Portuguese galleon. It was interesting enough, but most of the displays overlapped a lot with others that we'd seen at other museums previously. It's interesting to see how it mostly all toes a party line of some sort; in that the pre-colonial era was described as almost utopian, the Portuguese were/are absolutely hated for trying to convert everyone to Catholicism and imposing enormous taxes on trade, the Dutch were neutral-ish though disliked for taxes, and the British were despised for deliberately destroying the town as a way to promote the competing George Town settlement. Surprisingly the displays aren't that harsh on the Japanese occupiers, maybe they were just less brutal here than in other areas? They're usually just described as bumbling incompetents and unable to govern (possibly because there was a world war happening? I dunno).

    There was also an interesting display about the first person to actually circumnavigate the world who was a Malay. I'd read about this a couple of years ago and forgotten - he was a Malay who met Magellan on his earlier eastbound voyage, and travelled back to Spain & Portugal with him. He then went on the westbound voyage around the Americas with Magellan, and it was when they arrived in the Indonesia/Malay archipelago (after Magellan had been killed in the Philippines) and he could understand the language that they all realised they'd found the Spice Islands and travelled around the world. So when the Malay guy who's name I've forgotten arrived home, he would've been the first person to circumnavigate the globe - at least a year or two before the dregs of Magellan's fleet arrived back in Spain.

    By the time we finished with the museum it was lunchtime, so we sampled a local delicacy - chicken rice balls. These are exactly what you think they are! Meatball-sized servings of rice with minced chicken that have been steamed in chicken broth, with a plate of steamed Hainanese chicken on the side. Delicious!

    After lunch we wandered around the western side of the river a bit, before visiting our final museum in Malacca - the Baba & Nyonya Heritage museum. Baba (men) and Nyonya (women) are the descendants of Chinese immigrants to Malaysia, so they're basically half Malay and half Chinese with a unique culture of their own, specific to this area of peninsular Malaysia.

    The museum was in an old mansion that was previously occupied by a very wealthy nyonya family. We went on a guided tour for an hour which was fascinating, and a great way to see how the 18th century 1%-ers lived. Reminded us both a lot of the Chong Fat Zhee house that we'd seen in George Town, just in terms of the architecture flourishes and the styling and so on.

    Last stop for the day was Harmony Street, where there's a Hindu temple, a mosque, a Chinese temple (Taoist, Confucian and Chinese-Buddhist), and a Buddhist temple all within about 200m of each other. The Hindu temple was closed so we couldn't go in, but we had a look around the mosque and the two temples. The Chinese temple was originally built in 1645 and most of the original structure remained! Very lavishly decorated as well, and with so many classic Chinese touches like golden letters, artworks, smoking dragon reliefs on the wall, stone lions guarding the gates and so on. I really love the Chinese aesthetic.

    After an ice cream, some local baked goods and a drink at a semi-famous cafe called Geographer Cafe we retreated to the hotel, again tired and footsore. We had our showers and headed back out for dinner at a Portuguese/Malay restaurant. Supposedly the cuisine is quite distinctive - heavy on the citrus and onion to combat scurvy during long voyages, but I couldn't discern much hint of that. The food was still nice, but not quite the experience I was hoping for.

    Off to bed as another thunderstorm rolled over the town (they're a semi-daily feature here, though often the thunder doesn't amount to much rain). Checking out of our nice hotel tomorrow but it's not quite the end of Malacca for us! We've decided to spend a couple of days at the flashpacking hostel next door to catch up on work since we've been so busy here and in Singapore. We're also going to plan out the next couple of stages of our trip which will definitely be in Sarawak, Brunei and Sabah. Have decided to skip on Kuala Lumpur for now, as we were there not long ago and we're about 80% set on attending the Formula 1 race there in October.
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  • Day 36

    Day 36: Bonus day #1 in Malacca

    July 21, 2016 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Today was the first of the two extra days we'd planned to spend in Malacca. In no particular rush, we checked out of our hotel around 11am and took the enormous walk next door to the new hotel - a newly opened "flashpacking" hostel. Essentially it's just a hostel but everything is a bit fancy and nice. Helps that it's very new as well! Clean and modern industrial design, with murals on the walls and raw materials occupying the rooms (eg unstained wood, unpainted metal and concrete, exposed copper piping in the bathrooms etc).

    Shandos had organised a stay at media rates with the proprietor Carol in exchange for some blog and Instagram coverage, so we met with her on check-in and had a good long chat about the hostel, her background in hospitality, Malacca and Malaysia in general. She's a lovely lady in (I'm guessing) early 40s with twin daughters and a Chinese Malaccan native. She'd also worked in a couple of other industries before hospitality along with both large and small hotels in Malaysia, and was also fairly well travelled in Asia.

    It was quite refreshing to have someone else to talk too so we ended up chatting for a couple of hours, then headed out for lunch with her! She took us to a place with no name in the back-streets near the canal, which is apparently very well known in the Chinese community for serving a dish of pork slices in gravy accompanied by a bowl of yam-flavoured rice. It was delicious, though thankfully she knew how to order serves with no pig intestines for us!

    We headed back to the hostel and just lazed around in the common areas for a few hours. Booked our bus tickets to Kuala Lumpur for Saturday, along with our flights to Sarawak later that day. Spent a bit of time on Skype to mum as well. Later in the day we ventured out for coffee at another cafe we'd liked the look of, and it was probably the best coffee I'd had since leaving Australia!

    Back to the hotel around 6pm, where Carol had agreed to take us out to the Straits Mosque for sunset followed by dinner in the Portuguese settlement. The mosque is on a large man-made island, but juts out over the water so that at high tide it appears to just be floating on the water. Had a look around inside, and of course we were all required to put on modesty robes (yes even me, my shorts were just above the knee = unacceptable) along with headscarves for the women. There wasn't much to see inside as mosques generally tend to favour function over aesthetic, but outside it looked great.

    Handed back our robes and walked along the breakwater a little way to get a fantastic view of the sun setting just behind the mosque. Carol busted out the selfie stick and we took a bunch of photos, setting aside my dislike of those things temporarily! After sunset we drove over to the Portuguese settlement where the small but still existent Portuguese community still live. On the waterfront nearby is a large collection of "restaurants" but it's really more of an outdoor food court with no fast food outlets if that makes sense.

    There's about 25 stalls and every single one of them has a couple of hawkers convincing you to buy from their business, and of course they all swarm you the moment the car pulls up and they all talk at once etc. Good fun! We just picked one at random since according to Carol the best outlet had closed a couple of years ago when the owners got tired of running it.

    We ordered baked fish in Portuguese black sauce (based on spicy black pepper, much different to bland supermarket black pepper), sweet & sour squid and some sort of vegetable dish in a spicy sauce. All were excellent - the fish was crispy on the outside without being too bony, the squid wasn't the slightest bit rubbery, and the vegetables were good too if a little hot. Washed it down with a sweet and sour mango blended drink that Carol recommended - it's a secret mixture involving mango, plums and a couple of other things. Very refreshing!

    We headed back to the hotel stopping briefly to pick up the best pineapple tarts in town from what was literally a house! No signs or anything, Carol just stopped the car in the middle of a neighbourhood and ran into a house. Go figure! These were also delicious. On the way back she showed us a couple of other places to try for local satay, tandoori and laksa delicacies - there's actually a huge hawker centre a couple of hundred metres from the hotel but in a direction we've never walked! It's slightly away from the heritage district so that's why we hadn't ventured that direction.

    Off to bed by 10pm, though neither of us would sleep that well as the frosted glass window above the door didn't have a curtain on it, and was letting in a lot of light from the hallway making it difficult to sleep.
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  • Day 37

    Day 37: Bonus day #2 in Malacca

    July 22, 2016 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Not a whole lot to report today. We spent most of the day in the common area of the hostel chatting to other guests and doing work/internet stuff on our laptops. Ventured out to lunch at a satay place that Carol had recommended which we didn't quite manage to find! So we wandered a bit further to the hawker area that we hadn't been to and had seen last night - as with most hawker centres it was closed during the day, but a couple of places were open.

    Ended up going with a place that sold fish ball noodle soups: you basically picked out the ingredients you wanted (dumplings, fish balls, various vegetables and tofu stuffed with fish) and he'd combine them all into a noodle soup for you. Was very tasty and not heavy at all, no coconut milk. The broth was more like the clear broth you get with pho.

    We also wandered over to a place Foursquare had recommended called Baboon Cafe which was a trendy little cafe hidden inside an old building, and was filled with little trinkets, artworks, fish ponds/tanks and greenery. No photos permitted unfortunately. The burgers on the menu (and on other tables) looked amazing but since we'd just eaten we settled on a Vietnamese iced coffee for me and a fresh juice for Shandos.

    Back to the hotel to spend a bit more internet time before heading out around 6pm for the main reason we'd stayed in Malacca an extra two days - the night markets! These ran for probably 600-700 metres along the main shopping street, and had a whole bunch of different stuff. Clothes, toys, crafts, art, selfie sticks, and of course food & drink. We sample a bunch of different stuff: a Taiwanese burger (fried egg patty with ham), Nyonya dumpling (glutinous rice in bamboo with food colouring and minced pork), pok pai spring roll, ice cendol, Portuguese tarts, satay cup fish balls, chicken satay sticks, and more. Sounds like a lot but each portion was pretty small. There was lots of people out, and the atmosphere was very festival although it was spotting rain. Even a karaoke stage at one end with lots of people watching - I'll never quite understand the fascination with performing in front of strangers, especially when some folks have ... fairly average singing skills.

    Once we'd satisfied ourselves at the market we wandered back to the riverfront and had a couple of beers in one of the bars. Back to the hotel by 10pm and off to bed, feeling fairly confident that we'd seen and tasted most of what Malacca could offer. Slept poorly again as a couple of other hostel guests were being very noisy in the common areas at 3am, though I couldn't quite bring myself to shout at a couple of young Malaysian girls. It gets made worse as well because the walls, floors and ceilings are all bare concrete, so all noise just echoes up and down the building. Still a few kinks to work out I guess!
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  • Day 38

    Day 38: Across to Borneo

    July 23, 2016 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Today we finally say farewell to Malacca after 5 comfortable and interesting days/nights. Carol provided a breakfast of roti canai (Malaysian flatbread similar to a savoury crepe) and nasi lemak (rice & sambal with boiled egg & anchovies, wrapped in a bamboo leaf). She's been so good to us! She also drove us to the bus station which was about 20 minutes away on the other side of town, saving us getting a public bus out there!

    The bus was much the same as the one that had brought us from Singapore, with wide comfortable seats, a footrest and decent reclining capabilities, air conditioning and luggage racks in the hold. The journey was pretty non-eventful, I dozed and listened to podcasts while Shandos mostly slept.

    Only thing of note was that for some reason, the bus stopped at a rest area maybe 20 minutes short of our destination. I guess there's some rule that says you can't drive longer than x duration without a break, so even though the end of the line is 20 minutes away you still have to stop. Only a couple of people got off the bus to stretch their legs and inspect another disgusting Asian public toilet.

    Arrived at the enormous KLIA2 airport in plenty of time - by now it was 12:30 and our flight wasn't until 3:30, plus it was domestic and we'd already checked in and didn't have to drop bags. Had a typical airport lunch at Subway and then headed for the gate. Very surprised to find that unlike every other time we've been through this airport, we only had to walk for about 5 minutes to the gate, rather than the 25-30 minutes it usually is. The terminal is in the shape of an H with the entrance at one of the angles, so if your gate is on the parallel side and at the end it's a bloody long walk!

    Waited at the gate doing some various internet things while AirAsia apologised their way through another flight delay; this time about 1 hour. We've now had four flights with them and three have been running late "due to late arrival of the aircraft". I don't know what that's code for, but it's very annoying!

    Took off about 90 minutes late (so close to 5pm), and the pilot earned his stripes during the climb-out! Powering up, powering down, dodging left, dodging right to avoid huge thunderheads that just seem to gather in the sky late every afternoon. Once we'd cleared those the flight was pretty uneventful. Only a short hop of 90 minutes, so we arrived at about 6:30 and cleared immigration very quickly (yes - even though it's a domestic flight all travellers to Sarawak are monitored separately from the rest of Malaysia).

    Our hotel is clean and modern though not particularly fancy, and again on the edge of the main part of town. Being a Saturday night we freshened up and set out exploring the town of Kuching. First thing we noticed was statues and street art of cats everywhere - apparently Kuching sounds similar to "white cat" in Mandarin so it's colloquially known as the cat city.

    We wandered a bit along the riverfront (there's a wide river which the old city is clustered up against, with very little on the other side), before settling on a restaurant in a colonial era building just back from the water. The restaurant was full of white people which when travelling is usually an immediate red flag that the food isn't going to be very good, but we persevered and ate here anyway. Happy to report that the Sarawak laksa we both ordered was excellent, and a good price at 11.5 RMY/$4 AUD.

    Looked at a bit more of the riverfront but decided to save further exploration for tomorrow. I have a feeling we'll be doing a lot of walking!
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  • Day 39

    Day 39: Exploring Kuching

    July 24, 2016 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Super busy day of exploration today! Like much of Malaysia, Kuching and Sarawak are a mixture of various ethnic Malay groups with Chinese and Indian immigrants (from hundreds of years ago, not a recent thing). We were staying in the Chinese part of town, so we went downstairs to one of the noodle shops relatively early and grabbed a bowl of breakfast. I had a wonton mee which is a bowl of cooked noodles with no broth (just a smattering of oil and herbs) and some pork wonton dumplings on top, while Shandos had a kolo mee which is the same thing except with sliced char siew pork instead of dumplings. Our drinks were quite the adventure - coffee (or kopi as they call it) is served by default mixed with condensed milk which is great! Shandos's peppermint tea was hilariously strong - most peppermint teas in Australia taste like a mint leaf went vaguely near the water at some point, while this tea tasted like minty chewing gum.

    Out we wandered into the bustling city of Kuching. It's actually the largest city on Borneo, with over half a million inhabitants though the city centre is quite compact. We looked around a couple of Chinese temples, walked back and forth along the waterfront, had a long chat with a nice old Chinese man who wanted to practice English and gave me a list of his principles to live by. I was waiting for a sell of some kind which never eventuated - he was just a nice old man who wanted to talk, and actually reminded me a lot of my grandpa.

    More walking through the market districts of Little India, checking out various bits of street art, had a brief look at the large mosque (very imposing on a hill, and large enough to hold 4000 worshippers), wandered through an entirely Islamic shopping mall and eventually found our way through a large park to the ethnography museum. This was in a large old colonial mansion which had been renovated and now housed displays about the flora, fauna and humans of Borneo. Lots of displays about traditional jungle longhouses which we're hoping to see for real in a few days. Also some huge snakes, a crocodile skeleton and an interesting display about Borneo's headhunting tradition (yes, it's exactly what it sounds like though the practice is long extinct).

    I should mention at this point that Sarawak has an interesting history - it's the only place in south-east Asia to have been governed by a white Rajah. Between the 1200s and the 1800s it was variously ruled by sultans and local tribes which warred pretty constantly, though by the early 19th century it was basically part of Brunei, but was never colonised by Europeans. In the 1840s there was a large rebellion against Brunei which a British explorer named James Brooke helped to lead. When it was successful he ended up as the Rajah of Sarawak, and him and his descendants ruled the area for the next hundred or so years - it was even formally recognised as a country by both the USA and the UK! Interesting little piece of history, as he ruled as a paternalist rather than a foreign invader or exploiter.

    As interesting as the museum was, I couldn't stand it for too long as there was no air conditioning and conditions inside (and outside) were just sweltering. It was the usual 85% humidity 31 degrees that we've had basically every day since leaving Sydney, but all the walking and the stuffy museum really took it out of me. We retreated to a Western-style shopping mall where we basked in the air conditioning and chowed down on lunch - more noodles for both of us.

    The food court was on the top floor and had a greenhouse-style ceiling, but between leaving the food court on level four and reaching the ground floor, an enormous tropical downpour had started leaving people soaked and scurrying for cover. Rather than venturing out we retreated back up to the food court for another fruit juice, watching the storm's progress via the greenhouse ceiling.

    It died down within 30 minutes and we ventured back out, this time hoping to cross the river. We found a ferry boat (cost = 0.3 MYR / $0.10 AUD) and in a few short minutes we'd crossed the river. The other side was very very quiet, with not much happening, very few roads and dwellings. It's strange, because there's a few things over here - the Palace where the governor lives, the ridiculously over-sized but very impressive Parliament building, as well as an old Fort which now houses the police and justice museum.

    After a walk along the other side of the riverfront (hiding from another brief rain squall in a gazebo), we made for the Fort, having to find out way through an abandoned school and scrambling through some undergrowth. The fort itself was actually closed, though it didn't look particularly large and we weren't super interested in seeing the museum, just the building. Tried to get to the parliament on foot but the roads only lead away from it - we probably would have had to walk miles out of the way, and besides we could see the entry points and it looked closed. On a Sunday afternoon out of session that shouldn't be surprising!

    So we went back across the river in another tiny boat and decided to retreat to the hotel as it was by now around 6pm. Luxuriated in the shower, freshened up and went back out hoping to see the sun set from a rooftop bar with a tasty beverage. Alas we were to be disappointed; the rooftop bar we'd read about turned out to have no view! So we took a couple of quick photos of the sunset (such as it was) from the river front, then headed for a nice looking bar we'd seen earlier in the day named the Drunken Monkey.

    After a few beers all was right with the world, though I still got annoyed at the Italians on the next table having a phone conversation on speaker. It's about the third or fourth time I've seen it now and holy shit it bugs me! Just a serious lack of respect for other people's space I think. Nothing special for dinner, we'd seen an interesting-looking burger cart on the waterfront which we wanted to try, but it seemed to be absent. Lacking in other ideas, we ended up having our third bowl of noodles for the day at a Chinese cart just near our hotel.

    Steps today: 34,000. Yikes. Glad I wore my hiking shoes!
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