Around the World 2.0

April 2024 - April 2025
Circumnavigating the 🌎 East to West, visiting 2 new continents: Canada, Japan, Egypt, Portugal, Ireland, South Africa, Brazil, Argentina, Chile, and Mexico. Adventure beckons! Read more
Currently traveling
  • 8footprints
  • 3countries
  • 15days
  • 70photos
  • 6videos
  • 10.0kmiles
  • 8.7kmiles
  • 838miles
  • Day 1

    How it all began

    April 21 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    Japan. October 2019. Rugby World Cup. An amazing trip and we vowed to return. Donny found a smokin’ deal to transfer AmEx points to ANA. Boom.

    Yeah, Boom as in Pandemic. ☹️

    Three (hundred) years pass and those miles are going to expire. Start searching, discover Star Alliance’s Round the World ticket. Used their great planning tool (link below) to map out a route that checks the box on bunch of our travel goals:
    • Japan because cherry blossoms (plus bullet trains! And geishas! And food!)
    • Egypt because Donny’s niece’s wedding (plus Pyramids!)
    • Ireland for family (new baby!), horsey things (racing season & RDS!), and golf (of course!)
    • Cape Town because native friends will be there too (plus safari!)
    • South America because retiring in the USA is $$$$ (plus Pampas! And polo! And the Andes!)

    Over to ANA’s booking site to search award seats for each flight, ONE frustrating day at a time. Learned that ANA must not play nicely in the Star Alliance sandbox because award seats available on other members’ sites do not exist in the ANA universe. 🤔

    Booking via phone was relatively straightforward (after the 1+ hour hold time) given all the award flight searching beforehand. 400k ANA miles + $3k and we’re ready to roll on 8 biz class flights over 1 year covering ~35,000 flight miles.

    Three weeks later, an email arrives from ANA announcing a minor change to one flight time. I happen to notice my name is spelled Carloine (which, consequently is now my cool Godfather name).

    No big deal to just swap those two letters, right? Hahaha, that’s adorable. It is, indeed, a VERY BIG DEAL. 😳

    I’m told by a lovely woman (after another 1+hr wait on the phone) that not all the carriers allow name changes so we can basically either take a chance on correcting my name at the time of each flight or rebook the whole thing from scratch. I end the call and pitch an absolute lose-my-sh*t conniption fit. Then, as Donny says, I stick my hand up my arse and pull myself together and start over.

    Award Seat Search 2.0 went much faster thanks to lessons learned the first go-round and resulted in 2 wins: biz class on our first leg (we just have to get to Montreal) and a few better route choices. One final hour on hold, then rebooked our updated itinerary, sans cool godfather name but $500 cheaper. 🙌

    Obsessively confirm my name spelling on the new itinerary. 🧐 Ready to roll!

    ______________
    Tools I found helpful for award flight search:

    Star Alliance Round the World tool (for rules, hubs & routes, and calculating total flight miles to determine how many airline miles you’ll need): https://roundtheworld.staralliance.com/staralli…

    Flight Connections (for possible connecting flight routes, in case award seats on direct routes aren’t available; subscription required to filter by alliance or carrier): https://www.flightconnections.com/

    Seats.aero (for finding potential award seat availability and alerts; covers most major airlines and route, but not all; monthly subscription required for extended search beyond 60 days): https://seats.aero

    Airline Alliance and Award Point Infographic: https://welltraveledmile.com/airline-transfer-p…

    Interactive & customizable world map (for visualizing flight routes and calculating distance flown): https://www.greatcirclemap.com
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  • Day 1

    Vancouver

    April 21 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Caught the train from Edmonds to Vancouver. Some spectacular views along the way…
    Quiet evening with Caroline’s family Morgan & Scott. Korean food and ice hockey.
    Early start to Montreal.

  • Day 2–4

    Montreal

    April 22 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    Montreal became the kickoff point for our RTW ticket through the whole misspelled name debacle—in rebooking the whole trip, we found business class award seats from Montreal to Tokyo. 🥳

    We started off with an evening walk from our hotel down to and along the waterfront, where we learned that Montreal was, at one time, the largest port in N. America. First impressions: clean, a spectacular church every few blocks, and a cold wind that WILL cut straight to your bones. Next trip we’re for sure trying the Spa Boat!

    Day 2 was a sunny & gorgeous 65 degrees, perfect for our chef’s tour through Jean Talon market. In summer it hosts 150 stalls open 7 days a week. You know what late April in Montreal is not? Summer. 😕 So basically we walked around the edge of the yet-to-awaken market, shopping for our dinner ingredients that evening. We did have a few delightful bites of North African merguez sausage and a beef hand pie with cinnamon & ground almonds, plus divine Chinese soup dumplings and fried dumplings stuffed with shredded lamb and oozing with lamb fat. Chef Rob has a very diverse culinary background and shared a ton about the past and present of Montreal’s culinary scene. Also, it was super fun counting the number of famous people name drops, failed attempts to share a relatable anecdote or otherwise get a word in edgewise. 🤐

    Needless to say, we were a little trepidatious about a private dinner featuring more of Chef Overtalker but we’d prepaid so off we went. Another lovely walk through the city to arrive at his very stylish apartment, filled with gorgeous smells and a few plaintive meows from behind the bedroom door. Oh boy.

    Well…..Dinner. Was. Incredible. Chef Rob chose to highlight the emerging ethnicities in Montreal and nailed it—Korean caprese, Caribbean pork belly, Persian white asparagus, & Thai duck curry & duck w/ mushroom broth, all topped off with a Quebecois composed cheese course. He layered flavors in perfect balance, along with a cider or wine pairing for each course, including a lovely bottle of Sauternes I’d been saving for a special occasion.

    Did you know Duck could taste like the most amazing piece of filet mignon you’ve ever had?

    P.S. Chef Rob was much more relaxed and engaging in the kitchen. Especially once his meows were let out (he checked with us first) and turned out to be two Cornish Rex cats that are THE friendliest, most human-loving little cuddle bugs. Might be one of those in our future…IF we ever settle down. ❤️
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  • Day 5–8

    Tokyo 2.0

    April 25 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    It has to be one of my favorite cities. Last time we were here was for rugby World Cup 2019. There’s just so much going on. Beautiful parks, fabulous food, probably the best public transportation system anywhere. What’s not to like?
    Did I mention the visual stimulation: Fish markets, knife shops, restaurants, expensive cars, cab drivers with white gloves, baseball, rugby and fashion. It’s a must for those who can.

    According to Numbeo.com it is significantly less expensive than Seattle. Tell my wallet that. Haha

    https://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/compare_c…

    The photos will give a glimpse of our adventures. We are currently on a high speed train under the Sea of Japan. See you in Sapporo.
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  • Day 6

    Tokyo: Kaiseki dinner @ Ise Sueyoshi

    April 26 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Kaiseki is a traditional 7-14 course meal structured to provide a harmonious balance of flavors, textures, and temperatures through a focus on seasonal ingredients, artfully presented to create a sense of tranquility and appreciation.

    I first heard of kaiseki on a Top Chef episode so when Tokyo ended up on our itinerary, it just HAD to be part of our itinerary. Found Ise Sueyoshi through Time Out (great website, even better market/food halls scattered around the world) and snagged a booking for our 2nd evening in Tokyo (because jet lag).

    The restaurant occupies an intimate (aka tiny) space on the 2nd floor. Stepping in, we were immediately welcomed and seated at the 5-seat bar behind which Chef Yuuki Tanaka and his 2 assistants had apparently been casting spells and sacrificing virgins earlier to create a spectacular dining experience.

    And experience it was! Each course had a unique table setting—stunning dishes, sake cups & glasses (and a box!)—and was elegantly presented in a manner I can only call quiet deliberation.

    And the food…sweet baby Jesus, absolutely divine.

    Most of the ingredients are sourced near the chef’s home in the Mie region, southwest of Tokyo, and his pride and love for the area and its producers definitely came through in the food and how he spoke about it. In front of our place setting was a book showcasing featured ingredients and their producers, which the team opened to the corresponding page for each course. Really fun hearing the dish described, and then tasting it while deep diving into an ingredient to learn more about it and the producer’s philosophy. (Is “food nerd” a thing? *sheepishly raises hand*)

    The sake pairings were perfect and opened our eyes to the spirit’s diversity and versatility. My favorite was served in a fresh cypress wood box (took a minute to figure out how to drink from it without spilling down my chin)—the floral aroma of the wood with the crisp sake was transcendent. And we even got to take the boxes home!
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  • Day 8–10

    Sapporo

    April 28 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Fast train to the North Island of Japan, Hokkaido. The train is so fast the Findpenguins app actually thought we were flying. Didn't have huge expectations of Sapporo. Don't really know why. It’s a great city—easy to get around, good food, and a huge, 2-level underground city (like 1km long) since they get so much snow in the winter.

    Caroline had her restaurants picked out long before we got there, so after checking into the Royal Park Canvas Hotel right by the TV Tower (Sapporo landmark), off we went in search of dinner.

    The area we went to was hopping with nightlife, mostly younger adults. This meant that there were long lines for the restaurants, especially the high rated ones Caroline picked. Anyone who know me knows that I am not a stand in line guy, so off we went to find other options. Got lucky with a hole-in-the wall ramen joint in the bowels of a building. 8-seats, ticket vending machine, nice lady behind the counter. Spicy miso ramen with extras and a beer for ¥4,000 (~$25) for both of us. Heaven.

    Day two, we took the metro to the end and then walked two minutes to a bus meeting place. Hopped on the bus which dropped us off at Makomanai Golf Club in the forested hills above Sapporo, where we played in Japan for the first time. It was lovely, even with the flat tire on the golf cart on our 3rd hole. After the round, the caddie master asked how it was. Caroline said, “Great, I won!” He laughed, looked at me with a big smile and said, “Loser!” We were just starting to walk away so it took a few seconds to register what he’d just said. Harsh! Haha. That has been entertaining us for days now.

    Day three we pack our bags and head off to pick up a rental car for a week-ish of roadtripping & golf. Yikes.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapporo
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  • Day 10–17

    Hokkaido Countryside

    April 30 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We found a tiny house on Airbnb near Chitose, about 30 mins from Sapporo by train. Picked up rental car (including the obligatory “follow the guy holding a flag to the bus”) and away we go.

    Day one took us in search of cherry blossoms but what we found was that the country side south of Sapporo is packed full of racehorse farms and training facilities. Huge properties of precisely fenced, rolling green hills dotted with magnificent stables and covered tracks (because they get so much snow here). One enormous collection of blue & white buildings, including an 1100 meter covered straight track belongs to the Darley Stud (of Saudi-owned Goldophin fame). Amazing.

    On our second road trip attempt to find cherry blossoms (somewhat disappointing, we missed the peak bloom time), we passed a park-like field with people playing what looked like a cross between croquet and mini golf. 🤔 Stopped in for the craic and discovered Park Golf. What a blast. I chuckled at the 65meter par four and several groups of middle-aged adults fully outfitted in park golf gear, complete with fanny packs (sorry, bum bags for you non-Americans) and custom clubs. Chuckles aside, it’s not an easy game—you really have to whack that ball and hope for the best given the narrow “fairways” and bumpy ground. Best part? The hole is about 8” (20cm) wide!

    Driving is no problem here although the speed limits are SLOW and SLOWER. Our drive took us by a caldera lake—Lake Shikotsu—surrounded by five volcanos. The depth of the lake gets to 1200' and the water doesn't freeze in the winter because of the volcanic activity.

    This area is also chock-a-block with golf courses—hooray! We’ve played twice so far—both good courses and not that expensive: 18 holes, rental clubs, golf cart and lunch with a drink for just over $100. Since we tied our golf match yesterday we are going to play another round of Park Golf today to see who gets the winner’s trophy. Go ME. (Caroline edit: I won. Haha. Loser. 😂)

    RE: food, not a lot to report. We have been cooking at the Airbnb. We did discover a different twist on breakfast though—kimchi egg scramble. Yummy. The supermarkets have lots of veggies, almost all packaged in portions for 1, maybe 2 meals. There are baked sweet potatoes in a warmer in the produce section and strawberries are $4 for 7-8 individual berries. Yikes. Sushi is beautiful, abundant, and pretty inexpensive—$6 for 8-10 slices of tuna sashimi. Surprisingly, most of the tuna is from the Mediterranean near Malta. Cheese is also very much NOT a thing. There’s some shredded mozzarella (for those crazy adventurers trying their hand at homemade pizza) but almost everything else is individually-wrapped little pieces of white cheese like an American-Cheddar blend.

    Our host, Kazu, is hilarious. He comes in everyday to water the plants and feed the fish and he LOVES a good chat. This is his home when he’s not renting it out, so we’re thinking maybe he’s either lonely or appreciative of the time away from his Mom’s house (or just really friendly!). That said, he’s been super helpful with suggestions for places to go and even did a load of laundry for us and drove us to/from dinner our first night (drunk driving is so taboo that restaurants will not serve everyone at the table alcohol until they’ve confirmed they have a ride).

    As of this report we will be staying here for another three nights because someone didn't book the train to Kyoto in time and it’s a holiday weekend. (Caroline edit: SOMEONE likes it here and is not racing to go to another big city.)

    https://ipgaa.com/what-is-park-golf
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Shikotsu
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