Malaysia
Semporna

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    • Day 2,388

      Phone misery

      June 12, 2022 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      So after getting my phone wet yesterday and placing it in a box of rice overnight the worst case scenario has become real life. my phone has died. I can't believe how I used to travel without one and have become so dependant on it for booking things, finding places and even writing my blog. The other downside is there are no longer internet cafes. There are far worse things that can happen and I bite the bullet and head out to buy a new one. I always say that behind every negative is a positive and there are plenty I can take from this, the first one being the phones are so cheap here and after shopping around I managed to find a phone with pretty much the same spec as my Samsung even a little better for £200 and I'm also thankful for the fact pretty much everything is backed up on Google. I spend the whole morning installing apps and trying to remember passwords although accessing Google was pretty difficult and online banking was pretty impossible with a lot of perseverance I eventually got there and I'm back up and running. The other downside was all the time I'd spent writing my blog in the jungle, because I was unable to upload it was totally lost but it was such a memorable experience I will catch up on that part of my adventures at a later date.. A little later in the afternoon a new crew of people arrive, Alessandro from Italy, Chloe from Germany and. . They kindly invite me to join them this afternoon as they are heading to swim at the Tampi Tampi resort which when we arrive realise it's where the sea gypsies (Bajau Laut live. They built there homes on stilted huts above the coral bays .The sea gypsies are exceptional free divers. Many have mastered the art of free diving to depths of well over 20m while holding their breath for several minutes. All this as they hunt for fish, lobsters, sea cucumbers ) and other marine life Following in the footsteps of their ancestors, they earn their living solely based on the ocean’s resources, the sad part being is that Most are not afforded citizenship status by either Malaysia, Philippines or Indonesia, as they have been deemed to reside in the waters of the Sulu and Celebes Sea, and not strictly on land owned by any of the countries.As a result, most of their children do not have access to a formal education system, as it is a requirement for students to have birth certificates and for both their parents to possess national identity cards. As we walk around these stilted areas I'm shocked to the core as a lady is sweeping out her house and literally brushed all the rubbish including plastic bottles into the sea. We take a seat at a small restaurant away from the crowds of locals that are swimming in little netted areas that aren't occupied by the "catch of the day' and enjoy watching as the use the stilted areas as diving platform but choose not to join them. The area is also used by other local people and as we leave the kids can't stop staring and waving. They use a lot of flat back jeeps as they can cram a lot of people in the back from Grandmas to baby's. We take the grab straight to the street market which is very similar to the one I went to in Kota Kinabalu but has a slightly more organized set up and a stage in the middle for the entertainment. We don't stay around long enough for this but we're heading to the waterfront to see some music there. It's crazy how as we're leaving this area how nice it seems compared to downtown. As we arrive to the waterfront I ask the guy from the restaurant where we can get a beer and he tells us a bar at the end. As we are walking towards the bar we bumb into Luiz the guy I met in Sepilok. We share a few beers in the bar with a band who are really good before making our way back to the hostel.Read more

    • Day 80

      Semporna -> Mabul

      February 2, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      6:30 a.m. - After I woke up I had a bit of stress because I had to pack my stuff I hang up to dry.

      7:30 a.m. - We arrived at the diving center after a decent walk with all our luggage, dropped our bags there and went for breakfast. Afterwards the told us that they made a mistake and the dorm is fully booked so we got a free room upgrade to a privat room.

      8 a.m. - We left form the pier and I recognize how poor the people in Semporna are. We saw all the huge floating slums it was insane. I wondered the day before where all the people come from because it isn’t a big city but was very crowded. Now I know because half of the population is living in the floating slums.

      9 a.m. - After a nice boat ride we arrived at the island Mabul and got directly instructed where everything is and what the plan is for today. Afterwards we chose our diving equipment. I chose a long wet suite for the first time so I don’t freeze in the water but it was a pain in the ass to get inside. Then we got a short instruction to our divemaster and a short refreshing of the most important things. After that we were already on the boat and ready to dive. The first dive site is called Lobster Wall. It was a bit scary to dive again after almost two months. The maximum depth was 27m and the dive was just 35min long. I saw a lot of sea life, many turtles and nudibranch’s. I love them they are so cute and there are so many different ones. Furthermore the are very colorful. We also saw some eel’s and a octopus hiding in the corals. And we went into a small cave which was amazing. After the first dive we went back to the resort for recovery before the second dive. The second dive site is called Paradise. The maximum depth was 18m and the dive was 53min long. That was the longest I had so far and I really tried to improve my breathing and my buoyancy. The dive site was one of my favorites so far. There were so many small obstacles and a shipwreck full of marine life. We saw some eel’s, a blue spotted stingray, a crocodile flathead, nudibranch’s some turtles and even a black ghost pipefish. It’s insane how hard it is to discover a lot of the named animals because they a perfect in camouflage. Ether they look like stones, corals or other things.

      1:30 p.m. - Then we had lunch break at the restaurant. We got some tasty food from the buffet before getting ready for the third dive.

      2:20 p.m. - The third dive site was called D-Wall. The dive was 43min long and the maximum depth was 23m. We saw some scorpionfish, a yellow boxfish, a orangutan crab (one of my favorites), nudibranch’s and a huge turtle. As you can see Mabul and the surroundings are perfect for turtles and nudibranch’s. Unfortunately the current was very strong and one Malaysian guy of the other group was really annoying. He kept bumping into us and at some point he just joined our group. Furthermore he always had to film everything with his GoPro which was very annoying.

      4 p.m. - We finished diving and chilled for a bit first because diving is exhausting.

      5:30 p.m. - Later we went for a walk to discover the island. We walked first through a small local village where kids played football on the street. So I just started to play a bit with them, showed them some tricks and had a lot of fun. Somehow we found a sandy football pitch in the middle of the island. They had a proper football tournament with football shirts, a referee and sideline referee’s. Furthermore the location looked very pretty. Then we walked further and found a nice location for the sunset. It was a biz scary to walk over the wooden platform’s because it was unstable but the place was worth it. Nobody was there, we had hammocks and a great view on the sunset. We also saw many turtles coming up to the surface for air. It was very funny because you can only see their head. Afterwards we walked back to the resort chased by kids.

      7 p.m. - Got got dinner in the resort and afterwards I went straight to bed and was knock out. Lea decided after the snorkeling to dive the next day as well.

      P.S.: It’s very sad to see how much rubbish especially plastic is at the shore and the hole island. The locals just burn it from time to time.
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    • Day 79

      Sandakan -> Semporna

      February 1, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 30 °C

      7 a.m. - We woke up early and got mentally and physically ready for a hole day of bus.

      8 a.m. - We departure to Semporna and I slept as usual the hole ride. However I didn’t recognize that someone in the front spilled out some sweet drink and my hole backpack soaked everything up. So he was wet, dirty and smelled disgusting. Luckily my passport didn’t got wet.

      3 p.m. - We arrived in the afternoon and we checked in. The first thing I did was cleaned my backpack. Afterwards we finalized the diving. Eli just booked a day trip to Mabul which includes three dives and lunch. Lea booked a day of snorkeling and a night in the dorm. Femke and I booked two days of diving which includes six dives, accommodation and food. Afterwards we went for some coffee and Lea and I did the laundry. Unfortunately my clothes weren’t dry so I tried to dry the with the blower which worked not as good as expected.

      8 p.m. - For dinner we went in a fancy restaurant where I got some tasty pasta.

      P.S.: It was very weird and funny to see all the locals walking around with wheel barrow’s.
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    • Day 81

      Mabul -> Semporna

      February 3, 2023 in Malaysia

      7:30 a.m. - I slept so freaking good and packed my bag after breakfast. We got another divemaster today and unfortunately the annoying Malaysian guy was in our group. Furthermore the weather wasn’t that good.

      9 a.m. - We met up at the jetty and got ready for our first dive. The first dive site is called Kapilai House Reef. It was a 48min long dive with a maximum depth of 23m. This dive site is also definitely one of my favorites so far. We saw again some nudibranch’s, turtles, a blue spotted stingray, scorpionfish, octopus, loads of lionfish, a ghost pipefish, a stick pipefish, a school of barracuda, a mantis shrimp and some beautiful frog fish. As you can see loads of sea life. While diving there was twice a really load noise. It sounded like a gunshot and was hurtful for the ear’s. Our divemaster explained to us later that it was the sound of bomb fishing. When we came back to the surface it was already raining. This time we spent our recovery on the boat because we went further away to the island Kapilai. However it was very cold although I had the long wet suite. The second dive site is called Siu Siu Point. The dive was 50min long and the maximum depth was 21m. We had a stronger current than before and saw again some octopus, turtles, a ghost pipefish, a orangutan crab, nudibranch’s and a beautiful ribbon eel. The Malaysia guy was annoying as hell and I wonder how he can have 50+ dives. To only thing that was positive was that he agreed to share his videos and pictures at the end of the day.

      1 p.m. - For lunch we went back to the resort and got some rest before we started our last dive. The dive site was called Panglima Reef. The dive was 52min long an the maximum depth was 20m. We had as well a strong current and we couldn’t spot a loft of marine life. We saw a orangutan crab, a lobster and many huge turtles to the end.

      4:30 p.m. - After diving we had a little bit of time before we left back to Semporna. I got all the videos and pictures of the Malaysian guy. Unfortunately 80% of them where shit. Anyways the weather got better and we got some sun again before we left. On the way back on the boat Lea recognize that she forgot her charger and powerbank on Mabul and I realized that I forgot my mask. I was very sad about that and angry about myself.

      5 p.m. - We arrived in Semporna and went to the diving office to ask if there is a possibility to get our stuff back. It was definitely not the first time that someone forgot something because they said it’s no problem to send our stuff from Semporna to Kota Kinabalu with the bus and we just ned to pick it up at the bus station. The plan sounded good and I had hope again.

      6 p.m. - Afterwards we met up with Eli in the restaurant we were before and got some dinner before the night bus.

      7:30 p.m. - Later we took the night bus to Kota Kinabalu. It was my first night bus and it was supposed to be 11h.
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    • Day 2,391

      Child poverty

      June 15, 2022 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

      I still feel a little perky today but just after 11 actually feel able to leave the hostel. I walk a few minutes round the corner and as I sit in a little coffee shop with my posh Caramel Machiatto and my pastry breakfast I feel a massive overwhelming of guilt. Literally outside the window I witness true life angels. A family have pulled up in a car and are handing food parcels out to the street kids. At first there are just a few but within minutes the car is surrounded it actually brings tears to my eyes. Pretty soon the car is overwhelmed with women too. These kids with no opportunity to ever change their lives breaks my heart. How can they ever expect to change things. I realise that maybe I've ventured out a little early and with the 12hr bus journey ahead make a prompt return back to the hostel. I have an easy afternoon watching Netflix and catching up with family on Watts app. Zane in the hostel has let me keep my bed for the day at no extra cost which I'm most grateful for and as I'm due to leave his son Ivan presents me with a beautiful key ring. In the evening I once again pack my rucksack and get ready for leaving. I get a photo with the family and bid my goodbyes. It's pouring outside so not looking forward to getting on the bus in damp clothes but the weather is something I can't control. I just hope I can get a few hours sleep. I get to my bus and the guy looks a bit confused when I show him my online ticket as my name isn't on the list but let's me on the bus but a few minutes later a lady comes on the bus and asks to see it again. Then another guy asks me to get of the bus and go to the portacabin the lady makes a phone call and I explain I have a plane to catch tomorrow. After a tense 10 minutes I'm back on the bus. There are a couple of guys on the bus Marcus from Germany Paddy from Cornwall and his friend from the Netherlands. They are all going to the music festival and we exchange Watts app numbers. 20 minutes into the journey we are stopped by the police, armed with machine guns they check everyone's id before letting us on our way. The journey is very bumpy and the fog is quite bad and as we proceed witness a jackknifed hgv on the opposite side of the road. Further along the road is another police road check where once again they get on and check everyone's id. At midnight we stop at a roadside cafe and there's no chance I'm getting any sleep on this journey. The driver continues the journey like he's driving in wacky races and we arrive well ahead of schedule at 4.45am .Read more

    • Day 79

      Tauchen auf Sipadan

      September 13, 2022 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Wir haben uns, trotz der Reisewarnung des Auswärtigen Amtes und einigen Horrorgeschichten von Leuten aus verschiedenen Hostels, nach Semporna getraut. Die Ankunft dort war schon ein Schock, man hat sofort gesehen das es in dieser Stadt sehr viel Armut und leid gibt. Am Busbahnhof haben wir noch eine Amerikanerin die alleine reist auf gegabelt. Diese war sichtlich geschockt von der Ankunft und wie sich herausstellt hat sie gar nichts von den gefahren gewusst. Da wir ausdrücklich von vielen Lokals gewarnt wurden nicht alleine als Frau auf die Straße zu gehen haben wir sie zu Fuß zu ihrem Hostel eskortiert
      Wir hatten Dank Katrin ein super Hostel in dem wir uns sicher fühlten und haben dieses auch nur verlassen um Kaffee und Essen zu suchen.
      Der Aufenthalt dort hat sich auf jeden Fall gelohnt, denn das tauchen in Sipadan war wirklich ein absolutes Highlight. Der stolze Preis von 240 Euro hat sich gelohnt denn neben unfassbar schönen Korallenriffen haben wir massenhaft Schildkröten, Barracudas und Haie gesehen.
      Dank des besten Tauchbuddys hab ich auch bei der stärksten Strömung die wir je erlebt haben nicht die Nerven und vor allem nicht die Gruppe verloren.
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    • Day 8

      Schlaflos in Borneo

      August 19, 2019 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

      Mir ist heiss soooo heiss!!! Dabei wäre ich so müde dass das Einschlafen aber kein Problem seien sollte. Ist es aber bei vier Personen in einem Schlafzimmer, ca 30 Grad und 80% Luftfeuchtigkeit und vier unnützen aber lauten Ventilatoren. Somit liege ich nun die zweite Nacht in Folge im Bett und schwitze vor mich hin statt zu schlafen. Alex findet es zwar heiss, er meint aber auch er sei sich durchs Militär halt einfach mehr gewohnt und daher sei es gar nicht so schlimm.

      Aber zurück zum Wesentlichen, wie bereits erzählt sind wir nach Borneo geflogen. Wenn man Borneo von Oben sieht, blickt man soweit das Auge reicht nur auf saftiges Grün. Es ist jedoch erschreckend wieviel davon Palmöl Plantagen sind welche sich über unbeschreibliche Flächen erstrecken. Nur noch ein Bruchteil der Fläche ist von einem der ältesten Regenwälder der Welt bedeckt welcher vielen Tieren als Heimat dient. Beim Anblick der tausenden Ölpalmen welche in Reih und Glied gepflanzt wurden kamen mir fast die Tränen.

      Am Flughafen haben wir einen Spanier kennen gelernt der sich als Nacho vorgestellt hat. Er fragte uns ob wir auch nach Semporna müssen und da dies der Fall war konnten wir uns die Fahrkosten von unserem Fahrer teilen. Zufälligerweise wollten wir nicht nur an denselben Ort, nein auch ins selbe Hostel und haben sogar das selbe folge Packet von Scuba Junkie auf der Insel Mabul gebucht. Als ich beim gemeinsamen Abendessen die Menükarte studierte musste ich natürlich eine Spruch über die angebotenen Nachos machen, er nahm es mir aber nicht übel, da er dies Witze jeden Tag hören muss ;-)

      Unsere allererste Hostel Übernachtung war nicht so prickelnd wie wir uns (speziell ich) das vorgestellt hatten. Das erste zugewiesene Zimmer konnten wir nicht beziehen, da Alex gleich die Türfalle in der Hand hatte und diese nicht mehr repariert werden konnte und im zweiten Zimmer gab es weder ein Fenster noch sonst eine andere Frischluftzufuhr. Somit haben wir unserer Zimmertür einen Spalt offen gelassen und da ich dann allzeit auf Alarmbereitschaft war habe ich schon in dieser Nacht fast gar nicht geschlafen.

      Nach dem Frühstück, das es nicht gab sind wir ca. 15 Minuten vollbepackt zum Headoffice von Scuba Junkie gegangen. Ich habe schon nach den ersten Metern einen Turnschuh, welchen ich am Rucksack festgebunden hatte, auf der Strasse verloren und bis wir am Treffpunkt waren, waren wir auch kaputt und Bach nass. Irgendwie habe ich das Gefühl, dass ich mich langsam aber sicher an die Hitze und das Schwitzen gewöhnen sollte.

      Endlich ging es per Boot nach Pulau Mabul ins Scuba Junkie Resort. Dort erhielten wir als erstes einen kurzen Refresh Kurs was wir echt top fanden und uns mehr Sicherheit zum Tauchen gab. Der Dive Master, Mr. Amazing, hat das ganze echt mega gut und Professionell gemacht und machte nebenbei trotzdem die ganze Zeit zweideutige Sprüche, flirtet mit den Ladys und hat sonst nur Seich im Kopf, fast wie Alex als Teenager. Ausserdem lässt er die ganze Zeit 90er Jahre Musik laufen und singt lauthals und schief mit.

      Die Tauchgänge rund um Mabul herum sind die besten Tauchgänge welche wir bisher machen durften. Das Wasser ist immer so um die 29Grad und es gibt fast gar keine Strömung, es ist fast als ob man in einem Aquarium Tauchen würde. Es gibt tausende von Fischen in allen Formen und Farben und wir haben so viele Schildkröten gesehen wie noch nie zuvor. Am ersten Tag waren es mindestens 20 und heute auch mehr als 10, teilweise waren sie von Kopf bis Schwanzspitze so gross wie wenn ich meine Arme ganz ausstrecke, riesig! (Bilder folgen)

      Noch eine Anekdote am Rande: wir wollten den Sonnenuntergang, der auf der anderen Seite der Insel zu sehen ist, schauen gehen. Der Weg dahin führte uns durch ein kleines Wellblechdorf in welchem die Hühner frei herumliefen, Katzen auf Verkaustresen lagen und super viele lachende Kinder durch die Strassen rannten. Überall wurde uns freundlich zugelächelt oder gewunken. Das Lachen verging uns jedoch als wir den Steg des Todes beschreiten mussten um zu der Regga Bar zu gelangen. Die hat so geknarrt und geschwankt als ob sie jeden Moment zusammenbrechen würde. Keine Zehn Pferde kriegen mich nochmals in dieselbe Bar, auch wenn der Sonnenuntergang sehr schön war.

      Morgen müssen wir um 5:00 Uhr aufstehen, da wir 4 Tauchgänge in Sipandan machen können. Da das Tauchen dort streng limitiert ist und weil es zu den schönsten Tauchplätzen der Welt gehört, können wir uns darüber wirklich glücklich schätzen. Damit Morgen nicht nur Alex der jetzt schon schläft fit ist, sondern auch ich, versuche ich es nochmals mit dem Schlafen. Gute Nacht
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    • Day 487

      Sayang Malaysia

      November 18, 2018 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      Malaysia, ein Land das nicht auf meiner Liste stand und das ich nur gewählt habe, weil der günstigste Flug aus Südkorea nach Kuala Lumpur ging.
      Ungeplant habe ich am Ende aber fast 5 Monate hier verbracht.

      Das erste Mal seit langem habe ich wieder gearbeitet. Anders als mein Alltag in Deutschland konnte mir die Arbeit hier aber einiges mehr zurück geben. Geld gab es keines, dafür aber tiefe Einblicke in neue Jobwelten, Kultur hautnah und wahre Freundschaften.

      Ich war Putzfee im Dschungelcamp, aktive Naturschützerin und Schildkröten"hebamme", Tauchlehrer, Reggaebar-Kellnerin, Schnorcheltrip Anführer, Katzenmutti, Touristeninformation, Alleinunterhalter und Teil einer Band, Yogalehrerin, Massagetherapist, Künstlerin und Koch uvm.

      Ich bin im Schlauchboot, Tube und ganz ohne, die Flussschnellen heruntergesaust, habe Korallen gepflanzt und bin um eine ganze Insel geschwommen.

      Ich konnte Orang Utans, Nasenaffen, Flughörnchen und Haie in freier Wildbahn beobachten und verstehe ein wenig Bahasa Maley (Malaiisch).

      Ich hab noch nie so oft Nudeln gegessen (auch schon zum Frühstück) und noch nie zuvor die Essgeräusche und Rülpser meiner Tischgenossen zu 100% akzeptiert (und sogar mitgemacht).

      Schlafen auf hartem Holzboden aber dafür unter dem Sternenhimmel, um 5h morgens geweckt werden von den Gesängen des Muezin, eiskalter Cendol und fabelhafte Sonnenuntergänge.

      Terimakassi Malaysia, ich komme bestimmt mal wieder rum ;)
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    • Day 468

      Seagypsys

      October 30, 2018 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

      Sie werden auf dem Boot geboren und verbringen die meiste Zeit ihres Lebens auf dem Wasser. Ohne Pass oder gar Nationalität, lebt dieses Nomadenvolk überall und nirgendwo und von dem was das Meer ihnen bietet.

      Jeden Tag kann ich hier auf Mabul ihr interessant anderes Leben beobachten. Babys allein mit den kleinen Geschwistern in Einbaumbooten, wie sie bei Ebbe Muscheln sammeln und die Früchte des Meeres an Touristen verkaufen.

      Und darüber hinaus können wir die Gypsys als Wetterfrösche nutzen. Wenn Sie Ihre Boote in die Bucht fahren, können wir sicher sein, dass ein Sturm aufzieht.
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    • Day 2,389

      Back to the islands

      June 13, 2022 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Another early morning start as I'm doing another 3 of the islands here. Chloe, Nathir and Alexanddro are also coming. We get picked up at 815 sharp and make our way to the jetty. It doesn't seem as chaotic as the other day and we are only joined by another couple so much better than th tour we did the other day. As we make our way through the waters they become really shallow and the outboard motor actually hits the coral at one point. They are more bothered about the motor than hitting the coral. We arrive to Timba Timba island and once again it's like paradise a whole length of beach with psalm trees nestled on the end. The water is so clear with coral nestled on the bottom although this coral is bleached the sheer amount is breathtaking. Next stop is for snorkeling and we see the biggest turtle I've ever seen in my life. This is the moment when I really wish I had my GoPro but one of the guys has one and we manage to get a wonderful video, although I'm a little disturbed when multiple people come towards the turtle and each way he turns there's no form of escape. Next stop is Mataking island where we have a wonderful lunch and a dip in the sea where we spot starfish. We take a small walk through the Island to the opposite side but to be honest it's much more beautiful where we came from. As we walk back Mario gets his drone out but the guys on the boat tell him to put it away but he manages to get a quick bit of footage. I take a walk along the beach and the true reality hits home. The beach is full of plastic bottles and there is no chance of them being collected they will just wash out to sea. Back on the boat we stop at another dive site where the coral rolls right the way up to the beach and I literally have to swim through hundreds of fish it's like something out of a film. As the coral finishes there's a huge drop into an abyss and I dread to think what's hiding down there I already been nibbled a couple of times and just at the end is a huge turtle again. I'm so blessed I've managed to have this experience and see nature in the way I have here I really hope something comes into focus and education for the people here how precious it is and how important it is to protect it. Last stop is Pom Pom island which were not actually allowed to go on but of the side of the boat I watch the array of different fish just encircle us and choose not to go snorkeling again but to admire from afar. It takes us an hour to get back to land. We chill in the hostel for a few hours and the plan is to go to skull hill for sunset but when I check it's closed. We head to the seafront and meet with Mario and Berea. They are catching the bus tonight and after dinner we say our goodbyes. As I say one goodbye Agathe one of the girls I met in Sepilok passes by with a lady called Sarah and they join the group. I get chatting with the guy serving us at the restaurant and we discuss the plastic situation and he tells us how things have changed in the past 20 years when he was a diving instructor. We all share a few plates and the food is delicious before making our way to the "local" I'm exhausted and bid my goodbyes before making my way back to bed.Read more

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