Coyoacán Borough

So, we only finished half of the walking tour yesterday. It seems around every corner there is something more delightful than before. Today we returned to a couple of places I had already visited with Sheryl. No importa. I loved going again.

Our apartment was half a block from the Casa de la Malinche. The story is that when the conquistador Cortes made his way to the Mexico City area, he had either taken her as his slave or married this indigenous woman who helped him both navigate his way and then aided him is his conquests. Hence her name, Malinche or traitor. She is universally reviled and depicted in several of the murals we saw. One can never really be sure of her position as willing or unwilling partner.

We returned to the Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares. https://museoculturaspopulares.gob.mx/ Even though I had visited just last week, I was still so struck by the artistry and vibrant colours of the beadwork, fibre arts, and clay sculptures. They had added an exhibit that was about the role and wisdom of mid-wives that are practicing today in Mexico City. It has always struck me that the most magnificent thing that humans do is to create new life. There is scant art and glorification of this noble, arduous, loving, powerful act of creation. Don’t get me started on the “we’re pregnant” thing.

Last time I was here, they were setting up to begin the tourist season with booths selling art, crafts, and jewelry. The work was amazing. Gail got gifts for each of her kids here - one more perfect than the next. It was as if Gail divined them to be here. A gorgeous black and white snake necklace and earrings for Alexis; Jeremy, the chef, got a volcanic rock mortar and pestle; and for Jordan, a coyote figurine that doubled as a whistle with a dolorous sound. I got myself a beautiful pair of earrings. Couldn’t resist.

Gail really wanted to see the Leon Trotsky house, so we walked to the edge of the Coyoacán neighbourhood and went in. I had read much of the history panels already - but there is always more to read and reread. I also got a better look at all the bookshelves. Trotsky was not a meticulous fellow. His series books were not kept in order, and he was missing several editions. He also had some in upside down? I’m sure this was not the work of a museum curator. Who would put books in the wrong order and all cattywampus?

Many museums and art spaces here have these very detailed history calendars. They often include what was going on in Mexico and then all over the world at the same time. This includes pre-colonial times too. The Cultural Populares museum had a calendar of the colours that were used in pottery as they were in fashion or as they discovered how to use different elements of plants, bugs, and minerals to create new colours. The Soumaya Museum had another timeline that filled a long corridor ramp that led to the top floor. Super interesting. I have learned soooo much on this trip.Read more