Spain to Germany

helmikuuta - huhtikuuta 2023
One year ago today I returned home to Chicago after spending 5 epic weeks motorcycling south to Tierra del Fuego, SA.
Tomorrow I board a flight to Malaga, Spain. I will spend all of March in Marbella exploring the spectacular Spanish Costa del Sol.
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  • Päivä 24

    Sevilla

    22. maaliskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    If I were blindfolded, the ambient temperature around 82 degrees and placed in this historic center I would have guessed I was in Havana. These streets are familiar, comforting. This is my heritage. The culture of my youth. The culture I carry in the recesses of my mind. Now they tug at me as the winding streets and buildings speak as I gaze at them. I could live here.
    Havana’s architecture is the same of course the only difference is that the buildings are now so decrepit that at least one collapses daily.
    Sevilla was founded on the Guadalquivir River a busy waterway that allowed access to the Atlantic Ocean and beyond. Likely the port that Columbus used on his voyage to the New World.
    It was also very likely that my Spanish ancestors lived and walked these streets in the 17th and 18th centuries prior to their own departure is search of new lives in Cuba.
    This I know for certain as my great great grandfather Enrique was a general in the Spanish Armada. He was stationed in Veracruz, Mexico and Santiago, Cuba. After being called back to Spain and after his passing his wife Adela took the children back to Cuba.
    And now I walk these streets. Every step meaningful.
    The place I am staying at is Calle San Isidoro 12. It was most likely a single family home with large entry doors to allow the carriage and horse and household goods into the open inner courtyard. The rooms around the courtyard and in the second floor where the living quarters now converted into individual apartments. My apartment on the second floor is two stories with living area and kitchen on the “first” and bedroom and bathroom on the second.
    It’s a reminder of my great aunt’s home in Havana now the Venezuelan Embassy with its large inner courtyard surrounded by the living quarters. Although I only recall a second floor at the front of the mansion. I know that because there was an elevator.
    The church bells are ringing now reminding me of the time now 11 am. My tour has been moved to 12:30. It starts at the cathedral just around the corner. I will add additional pictures to this entry so check back. And start another entry after today’s tour.
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  • Päivä 24

    The Third Largest Church in the World

    22. maaliskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Well I’ve now entered and walked the largest church in the world. Incredible! It took 70 years to build constructed on the site of a mosque. No sign of the mosque as it was in poor condition so it was destroyed and the church replacing it. The construction was begun by King Fernando in the 13th century. He is San Fernando and is the city’s patron saint. And is also entombed here.
    He is so revered that in his feast day his mummified body is brought out for parishioners to pay their respects. There was no access to the knave he is at fue yo restorations.
    The columns that support this edifice are massive and have support this grand church through generations, earthquakes and upheavals. I
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  • Päivä 24

    Church Bells and Additional Photos

    22. maaliskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    I want to mention that I am so enjoying the church bells in this city ringing every hour. I know exactly the time without need my watch. There seems to be a church around every corner and in all sizes. It is still a very Catholic city and country.
    In two weeks it will be Easter and many stores are displaying the traditional dresses worn by women for the celebrations. It will bed wild with parades and celebrations all day and all night.
    People have told me it’s crazy and to get out of town. Others have said it is worth seeing to believe it. I have to return. During Easter week devout Catholics will refrain from eating meat. Typically a practice on Fridays during Lent and ending after Good Friday.
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  • Päivä 25

    Taller Andaluz de Cocina

    23. maaliskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Spanish cooking class! Yes 3 1/2 hours cooking and eating!Paella Valenciana, Salmorejo, Spinach and Chickpeas, Lemon Sorbet with Cava, and Sangria.
    As much as I love to cook this was an excellent chance to learn about Spanish food and culture. And make the meal. I walked out stuffed.
    The class was held at the Sevilla food market. It is a large market with eateries, butchers selling lots of pork, beef, chicken, rabbit, bull’s tails, etc., fish mongers, vegetable and fruit vendors, spice, olives and olive oils, and nut vendors.
    The market was built on top of the Castle San Jorge on the banks of the Guadalquivir River. The castle below now a very nice art gallery is worth a visit. When construction of the market began 300 human remains were uncovered. It turns out that this was the original site of the Spanish Inquisition. Poor souls resting below a future market place and food stall.
    We receive a great introduction to all the various vendors with explanations of the meat and produce. The one picture of the lamb head it was pointed out that it’s a delicacy that some cook and eat the whole head including the eyes but the best part is the brain. Yeah I’ll try something once but not that!
    After that we returned to the kitchens divided into two groups of about ten.
    The participants in my group were all from the US except two ladies mother and daughter Allie and Carla from London.
    The food we got to cook and enjoy was wonderful especially the Salmoreja a creamy cold soup made only with ripe tomatoes, bread and olive oil. Served with s sprinkle of jamón and hard boiled egg. Wow! It was exquisite. This will be the first thing I make once back home.
    The paella was more complicated but really not all that difficult. The saffron, pimentón (paprika) and the garlic are critical ingredients. By the way, paella is the pan. I never knew!
    I also learned that saffron comes from a flower each strand picked by hand. And there are two types Spanish consisting of red and yellow strands and Iranian red only strands. Everything else not real saffron.
    The spinach and chickpeas tapas I ordered the first night in Sevilla was also on the menu. I’m glad since I’ll make it regularly.
    It was such a good experience. And I learned how to peal, cut artichokes and remove the hairs from artichokes! My €70 paid off. After the class ended, I strolled to the saffron vendor where I purchased a few grams. Plus pimentón.
    I wanted to see the Inquisition torture chambers of the castle below but now as an art gallery it was hard to imagine the pain inflicted therein. But I got a very good tour of the current exhibition by a young lady. It was just me but before we started three women who are local women artists joined us.
    Bring my last day in this historic city I had to walk the mile and a half along the banks of the river to Plaza de España. I pictured this busy river ships coming and going. Captains barking orders, oars churning the water while sails caught the wind. Mothers and wives crying tears of joy as the men disembarks while others shedding tears hoping their loved would return. Contracts signed, taxes paid, money made, jobs for many. The river banks a flurry of activity. Spain becoming a world power enriched by gold and silver. These tiny ships with brave men traversing the Atlantic made me think of the new frontier. The moon, Mars and beyond. Hundred of years from now our rockets will appear small and treacherous like the galleons that sailed the sea in those early seafaring days. I imaging that spacecraft of the future will dwarf todays rockets and the ISS. And I wonder what riches and new technologies will they return?While touring the Alhambra it was stated that Columbus was promised 10% profit by Queen Isabella. Apparently so much gold, silver and other goods were being brought back from the Americas that 10% would be a great amount of revenue for Columbus and family. So much so that it would have made them rich beyond imagining. Thereby, it is told that they could literally buy countries around the Mediterranean. I don’t recall the final outcome but certainly they were richly rewarded.
    Anyway back to my walk to Plaza de España which I had to see before my departure.
    It is massive. A symmetrical building constructed for the unsuccessful Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. That’s all I know about it but do know that it was used in two notable films, Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars Attack of the Clones, among others.
    Sevilla or Seville is a city I want to visit again. And if you have the chance I highly recommend it. The neighborhoods, narrow streets, the cafes, broad elegant boulevards dotted with palm trees, fragrant orange trees, large ornate fountains, some in the middle of large roundabouts, statues to heros, the markets such a wonderful city. Welcoming and safe. The people and food memorable. The weather great! Except the hot summer months.
    Tomorrow back to sleepy Marbella for my final week in Spain.
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  • Päivä 26

    Sevilla Early Morning

    24. maaliskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Up early. Out for cafe con leche and churros at El Comercio. Didn’t anticipate how many churros are served but the coffee was strong nourishing neurons with the needed jolt.
    Paid and set off for the Cathedral and Alcazar. A few tourists wandering about but most were Sevillanos headed to their jobs or walking their children to school. Food truck delivery drivers unloading their orders.
    City workers everywhere erecting barricades for the upcoming Easter holiday. Crowd control for the holy cra cra week of festivities. Even in the now empty Cathedral Plaza one can feel the urgency of the preparations. God must smile upon this city.
    Backpack hung on my shoulders a leisurely walk to San Justa train station. There I sit counting how many people walk their mobile devices in hand peering down at the glowing interface. Or tightly at their side for the hurried walkers. Without life is meaningless.
    Of course it is a necessary tool for a traveler whether experienced or a first trip to a foreign land. It serves vital services. Not getting lost, direction, entertainment, news, contact with family and friends, food source, HELP! Not meaningless just an affliction.
    An affliction I propose that hinder the art of social interactivity. We’re mobile gunslingers. Me included as I thumb type this entry. Interruptions do not result in a mortal wound just “where was I?”
    What simplicity past trips to Europe, Maggie and I dependent on paper maps, tickets, francs, liras or pesetas. What simplicity. Or was it?
    My train via Córdoba to Málaga is finally listed on the large electronic departures board. Fifty minutes to go but no track yet listed.
    I wonder if those informational displays will disappear replaced by an active feed pushed to our devices?
    I sit patiently waiting my turn. The Golden Arches in the periphery of my vision beckons me. I resist. My belly churro filled. My system fortified.
    I amuse myself. Gym shoes have become the norm no matter the clothing. Suit, dress or jeans sneakers will take one there comfortably. Still fashionistas and metrosexuals lurk.
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  • Päivä 26

    T-Corner Life

    24. maaliskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Calle Mateus Gago, Sevilla, España

  • Päivä 29

    Marbella, End of the Line

    27. maaliskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    My final three days in Spain. Marbella has been a restful place living here this past month of March. I have been immersed in a different culture which was my primary reason for spending so much time here. Indeed I have been saturated with Spain so much that I am now ready to move on. But have learned that next time I will hope city to city instead on staying in one place.
    However, Marbella is a resort oriented town so beyond the initial introduction to the city there isn’t much to do. A lager city would have offered more entertainment. What I love about Chicago is it’s vibrant music scene. That seems nonexistent in Marbella although the summer will bring Rod Stewart to play at an outdoor venue. Ugh! I haven’t even found record store.
    Additionally, Marbella is filled with expats from Europe including a lot of Russians and Eastern Europeans. Some are permanent resident with strong roots back home others are visiting. They probably go to Puerto Banus or Cala de Mijas. But certainly they all come for the weather, the good standard of living, and the Spanish laid back culture.
    Yes lunch at 2-2:30; dinner at 8:30-9. Prime time programming doesn’t seem to start until about 10 pm. The surrounding building apartments are lit up well past midnight. When I awake at 6:30 or 7 its a ghost town with all the apartments dark. Life usually starts if not ( Am then 10 AM.
    The condo I am staying at is well appointed in the center of town, grocery stores, markets, shops, beaches and restaurants all within walking distance. Even the gym I have been going to three times a week is just around the corner. So a car, in which we Americans spend so much of our lives in has been unnecessary. Of course I did rent to get up to Granada, Córdoba and Ronda but could have just as easily commuted to those cities using the Spanish train system RENFE as I did for Sevilla
    So what do I think of Spain? I love it. The people are friendly and warm. The food is wonderful. The tapas particularly are a good way to not overeat. The climate here has been terrific. Early in the month the nights were cool but now that Spring is finally here the temps do not dip below 60. And they are a pleasant 75 during the day. The sun shines everyday no wonder this is called the Costa del Sol. The transportation system is top notch allowing me to get to any city in Spain or beyond the Spanish borders by train if I so desire. The local buses are clean, run on time, and are inexpensive $1.25.
    In contrast gas is around $6.00 per gallon which is probably why most cars are small. Scooters and motorcycles are ubiquitous but nothing like the horde of motor scooters seen in Rome. I must add that the discipline of the drivers (no left lane bandits) and the courtesy given to pedestrians at cross walks is incredible. Similar to what I have experienced in Germany or the UK. Maybe hitting a pedestrian will ruin or bankrupt you.
    Marbella streets and sidewalks are constantly being cleaned. But those in other cities were well maintained. Tourism drive a lot of this economy. There are street beggars, huskers and the lookie lookies but overall the economy seems to run well. There is a strong environmental emphasis especially now that the war in Ukraine has driven up utilities.
    Television programming available in this condo has been limited of course. So I have watched mostly news and games shows. Male newscasters wearing neckties are out. A smart casual look is preferred both by men and women. One in particular, a word game show has increased my vocabulary a bit. The news programming is typical of news feeds, politics, fútbal, the Royal Family, fraud, taxes, healthcare, environment, crime. But no gun violence crimes have been reported until today, Nashville. When will we learn? Everyone here is horrified. I’ve been asked about it but have no answers. My trainer Fernando does say that special licensing is needed to own a firearm but it doesn’t include semi or automatic rifles. There are guns in the black market and these are usually involved in family disputes or drug related deaths.
    One story recently centered on the king’s daughter who will be the first female monarch to lead the Spanish Armed Forces.
    It has been a good experience spending this much time in a foreign country. We Americans do love visiting France and Italy but I strongly recommend Spain. The history, culture, people, cuisine are all worth it.
    The shorts and polos are packed the warmer clothing is ready. I’ll have a new entry after settling in Berlin in the next few days.

    Fun news today. King Philip VI and the Queen visiting Cádiz came upon a plaza with a group of box drummers whom they both joined. The King turned out to keep a good rhythm going. So there is good news to be had.

    https://youtu.be/eRsMOT8lbGs
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  • Päivä 32

    Berlin die Weiterführung

    30. maaliskuuta 2023, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    The picture is of Mar who came by to say goodby. She and her partner Iciar were terrific hosts very friendly and sweet. Always ready to answer any questions and regularly reaching out to ensure I was enjoying my stay. It’s not often that I meet AirB&B hosts but these ladies took really good care of the apartment and me. Highly recommended.
    When I arrived several weeks ago I wrote a bit about the historic coast wondering about the Roman Empire’s by conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. Now that I am leaving I wonder about the Moors who ruled over southern Spain for 700 years until they were defeated and force back to Africa by the Catholic Kings.
    Those Mediterranean beaches the Romans languidly camped must have been stained by Arab blood.
    The Moors did have a driving culture through architecture, commerce, math, food, art which must have certainly been difficult to leave behind.
    As Catholicism spread across the kingdoms of Spain pushing the Moors further and further off the Andalusian coast it’s important to note that much of their culture was absorbed into Spanish culture thus not lost. Certainly reigning monarchs that came after the Moors were smart to preserve what they had left behind.
    Many Moors did opt to stay and convert to Catholicism and surprisingly were to prove this through inclusion of pork into their diet. I am told it was part of converting to the faith.

    The bratwurst says I’m in Germany; the boots in Northern Europe. No palm trees here.
    Getting here was long. Flights were delayed out of Malaga due to thunderstorms with heavy turbulence slowing our approach into Frankfurt. Missed my connecting flight but with German efficiency I was automatically placed on an 8 pm flight. No human interaction required. iPhone handled all changes.
    It’s been at least 18 years since I was last at Frankfurt Flughafen. The tough and imposing looking military police in their dark olive green, bullet proof vests, machine guns at the ready are seemly absent. Remember Lockerbie? The airport then was constantly under renovation and expansion. Well it’s grown even more as it took me 1.2 miles from my arrival gate to my departure gate. That free weiner dog courtesy of Lufthansa aided my effort.
    One hundred years or more it will be very different. Imagine a a spaceport lifting scientists politicians, business people and the casual tourists up to orbiting cities and beyond.
    Frankfurt to Berlin is a fifty minute flight. Berlin is Germany’s biggest city.
    The flight full. I may be one of the few tourist on board as I have spotted many PowerPoint presentations glowing from laptops. Is PowerPoint still around? Damn those days are long gone and happily forgotten.
    The roar of the engines, the hydraulics audible dance break into the solitude of the quiet darkened cabin. My ears pop and through the windows the city lights appears as we descend in the twilight. Berlin awaits.
    The next few days I will enjoy a hotel room near checkpoint Charlie and Potsdamer Platz. Many historic sites to visit culminating in a tour Monday afternoon of the BMW Motorrad manufacturing plant.
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  • Päivä 33

    Berlin

    31. maaliskuuta 2023, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Why am I always so comfortable in a big modern bad ass city? As good as Marbella and the Spanish Sun Coast was Berlin is another dimension.
    From the moment I stepped outside the hotel onto Wittenberg Platz I felt at home. Totally comfortable as I walked to Die Creme for früshstück this morning. No longer walking the pretty sun brightened streets of Marbella. Or smelling the ocean breeze. Instead traffic, graffiti, folks rushing, sirens howling. But damn I was home. Finishing my bowl of granola with fresh berries and coffee I exited the small cafe to get my city pass I had purchase on line. This was going to be a day for a little shopping, learning the subway system and walking.
    I headed toward Potsdamer Platz 1.3 miles away to get a proper Berlin public transport pass. Offices close. Open Monday-Wednesday or weekends. Well that walk healthy still took time and pissed me off. So I kept walking almost in circles until fatigue urged me to rest. When my legs were about to give up finding me in a jail cell for sleeping on a cold wet park bench a Hop On Hop Off bus turned the corner headed towards me. It stopped. I got on.
    Not a word of English did the driver speak. I showed him the Visit Berlin pass but in English he couldn’t understand it. In German I had to buy the tour bus pass at the Tor. “Ok” I said. He let me on. No jail tonite.
    Sitting in the upper deck toggling through an exhaustive list of languages I found the English narration. Up and down streets the bus went. Here’s the Opera House, then museum xyz, a decaying Berlin Wall picked clean by human woodpeckers and a remnant of a bomb out WWII building. Past Check Point Charlie into the government quarter where we were forced to stop to allow a cavalcade of police cars, blue lights on, motorcycle escorts and dark Mercedes Benzes. King Charles was here yesterday but had already departed for Hamburg. This definitely was a important politician. It reminded me of the night in DC went we were surprised by Trumps parade of black vehicles on route to the White House. It was probably a late night Taco Bell run. We did “salute” as the Beast passed us.
    Anyway the bus made to the Tor and I jumped off with a quick Vielen dank.
    The subway station that would get me back was nearby by.
    I went down the stairs to the ticket kiosk. Location instructions were difficult to interpret and my phone was of little use. So I went looking for help. And then serendipity.
    There was an older man we’ll probably my ages at a seat waiting for the train. He was wearing a baseball cap and from a distance I recognized it as the Cuban flag it was embroidered on the side and Cuba above the bill.
    Incredulous I stopped and in Spanish I said “¿Tu eres Cubano?” He smiled and replied “Si.” Instantaneously, as brothers from some distant land there was an bond.
    I continued asking if he knew the system and where I wanted to go. As he began explaining his train approached. I said thanks indicating I understood in Spanish of course and shook his hand.
    I continue the short distance to the escalator that would take me to the other side of the tracks. As I walked across, I looked down and saw him still on the platform his train gone. He had not boarded and was waving at me to come back. Weird. I made a u-turn and headed back down.
    He was very apologetic feeling he had not given me clear instructions. Since he wasn’t working today he could take the next train home.
    We talked and I learned how to get back to the hotel. Then a little bit of chit chat asking him if he lives in Berlin etc. Yes he told me for the last 30 years.
    I began to probe further but again the next train approached. Yeah German schedules.
    I stopped the questions and asked if I could take a selfie of us. Immediately he said No, no pictures please. Ok I respect that. Many people are camera shy. But this was different. Summing it up in my mind I knew it was the long arm of the Cuban government. Stretching all the way from Havana it’s authoritarian reach beyond comprehension.
    I firmly shook his hand again and patted his shoulder.
    How many lives has the regime destroyed? For how many more years will the suffering continue?
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  • Päivä 34

    Museum Island

    1. huhtikuuta 2023, Saksa ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    German society is still smoking. Is it because there is always a cold bier near?
    Now that this incredible subway system that rivals or may surpass London’s tube has been tamed I decided to tackle the museums. The principle ones located on an island in the middle of the Spree River.
    A mid morning start found the streets quiet. I boarded the U2 train to Hausvogteiplatz walking the remainder to the island. But decided to cross the Spree to enter the Radisson the hotel my wife and I stayed on our first visit. It was shutdown for renovation. The hotel’s outstanding feature was the AquaDom in the lobby over the bar. Impressive at 82 feet tall, 36 feet across with 264,000 gallons. Quite the fish tank. Magical. Maggie and I would have an evening glass of wine before retiring for the night.
    Last December 16 the tank blew sending fish out the lobby doors into the street. No one perished but a lot of fish died. Local authorities called it a maritime disaster. Hah!
    I first visited the Cathedral beautiful ornate building with Prussian Kings and Queen latex to rest inside. Germans are a tall people but these sarcophagi were half the length of a school bus. What were they buried with? After absorbing the beauty of this church I decided to climb the 282 steps to the dome top. Great views of the city and one can walk completely around the dome circumference.
    Climbing down to street level I headed to the Alte Museum home to classical period masterpieces. It took about 1 1/2 hours to see the collection without the audio phone tour. Housed here are the distinguished German artist plus Monet, Rodin, Cézanne, Manet and others.
    Next the Neue Museum which I skipped due to a queue and headed to the Pergamon Museum filled antiquities predating Christ from Syria, Iraq and Babylon. Remember learning in elementary school about Nebuchadnezzar of Babylon? Well tule remnants of his palace are here. Plus Roman structures from the period. A truly remarkable museum. Among the artifacts is a fully assemble dining room floor from a wealthy Roman villa.
    And of course a visitor dropped her phone onto it. Prohibited to walk on it the gallery erupted in applause when one of the docents was able to retrieve it with a “handy” grasping claw.
    Tonight wanting Turkish food I went for Thai not wanting to ride the subway again. My favorite Larb Gai.
    It’s been raining and cold most of the day but to plan to venture out around midnight to walk the city streets while listening to Bowie’s album Heroes. I’m too far from the Wall or Hansa Studios where it was recorded but the local streets near Wittenberg Platz will provide the necessary accompaniment.
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