Norway
Finnmark

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    • Day 26

      Alta

      June 28, 2022 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Unterwegs fahren wir vorsichtig, da immer wieder Rentiere auf der Strasse auftauchen. Sie machen jeweils auch nicht den Eindruck, dass sie uns Platz machen möchten.
      Unser heutiger Fixpunkt liegt in Alta. Dieser Ort ist bekannt für die geheimnisvollen Felsritzungen, ein UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe. Ganz in der Nähe des Museums finden wir unser heutiges Plätzchen und sind bereit für den morgigen Besuch.
      Es ist sonnig und warm und so können wir das Abendessen gut draussen einnehmen. So um ca. 21 Uhr besucht uns noch unser „Nachbar“, der etwa 200 m weiter hinten von uns wohnt. Er meint, dass es hier sehr schön sei. Er meint auch, dass Norwegen ähnlich sei, wie die Schweiz - nur das Meer fehle bei uns.
      Er empfiehlt uns den Besuch des Museums, nur so könne man die Felsritzungen sehen - eben, wenn man Eintritt bezahlt.
      Er empfiehlt uns auch noch den Alta Canyon.
      Wir lesen dann etwas nach:
      Mit einer Tiefe von 300 - 400 Metern und einer Länge von ca. 6 Km ist der Sautso-Canyon, der noch zur Gemeinde Alta zählt, die grösste Schlucht Nordeuropas.
      Der Canyon ist nur zu Fuss erreichbar und die Wanderung dauert ziemlich lange. So denken wir, dass wir dieses Ziel nicht ins Auge fassen können. Das abgedruckte Bild stammt also nicht von uns, sondern dieses haben wir im Internet gefunden.
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    • Day 15

      Alta Day two

      April 7 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ -9 °C

      There are some things now that I reflect on that I realise you have to do when you are in this part of the world. In part I have been reluctant because they are expensive and don't sound all that engaging and potentially uncomfortable because of the cold. It is very hard to describe in words the experience you have with these excursions. I need to worry less about the cost and simply immerse myself in what we are doing.

      After last night getting back so late we now have to get up early for our next excursion. I must confess that my enthusiasm for more snow and ice was not very high. Early is made more challenging when you have to go through the getting ready for ice and snow ritual. Thermal under garments, water proof pants, layer under the jacket, gloves, warm socks, shoes and headwear. Then decide what you need to take, phone in one pocket, camera in the other. Thankfully the jacket is waterproof. Backpack for anything else. Sometimes walking pole other times crampons.

      The day did not look particularly promising overcast, but at least it wasn't raining. Bob as always is very positive about everything we are doing. I was initially not even sure this was an excursion I was interested in. Short bus ride again through beautiful countryside, snow-covered trees and mountains in the distance. If nothing else, the view is worth the trip.

      My weariness dissipates the moment we get out of the vehicles and begin the process of learning about walking in and putting on snowshoes . Here we are again in a pristine almost wilderness area. We have one dog with us who will pull a sled with ' supplies'. The plan is to walk for about 45 minutes (this is what I was most interested in) and then go ice fishing , not something high on my list of must do activities. The walking is very good exercise, for a start snowshoes feel like you have a small snowboard attached to each foot except with the disadvantage that there are spikes underneath so you can grip the snow which means you can't slide. By the time we we get back to the vehicles, I feel I have mastered the art of walking in snowshoes. The path is up and down through fresh snow, snow we drove through last night. The day is bright however and we have no wind making it very pleasant.

      It seemed like quite a long strenuous walk before we arrived at the frozen lake. Here we are in the middle of a forest surrounded by snow and snow-cap mountains and in front of us is a frozen lake where we are going to fish. We're instructed to pick up a reindeer skin, we will need this to sit on the snow while we wait for fish to bite. Our guide provides instruction on how to create a hole in the snow in order to fish. First, you shovel out the top layer of snow until you reach the ice, you then take a hand operated ice drill and drill through the ice which is about a meter thick. Now you can see the water, but you must scoop out the slush on top to make sure the water doesn't freeze over, it is still below zero. Next you take a tiny maggot. Attach it to a hook on a very small, almost childlike toy fishing line. The line is dropped 5 m into the ice hole you have created with your poor frozen maggot on the end of it. Now you sit on the reindeer skin and wait. It was a much more entertaining experience than I had thought despite the freezing cold. Three of us managed to create a small fishing hole and much to our and probably everyone's surprise we caught a very small fish. It was smaller than a sardine and already dead when I pulled it out. The guide, I'm not really sure how, managed to gut this tiny fish. Our sled dog meanwhile is having a great time in the snow. He runs to the edge of the lake and back checking out anything he can smell along the way.

      Beside the lake, there is a traditional Sami structure with two fires inside, seats around the fires which we now place our reindeer skins on, it's freezing. Throughout Norway there are numerous huts and structures like this one, they may belong to someone or to a company, but there is an understanding amongst the Norwegians that anyone can use them at any time so long as they do not damage them. That isn't surprising given how harsh the climate is, it's understandable that you want to make sure people have shelter should they need it in winter. We are offered coffee and cake, for me the most delicious dark chocolate. Our tiny fish is cooked in a little butter in a pan over the fire. It is cut up and shared between the eight of us who are on the excursion. Even though we have only a small taste, it is in fact a very nice tasting fish.

      Hot drinks are served in a 'parasite' cup. Folds down, keep it in your pocket and bring it out when when someone has something you might like. And we get to keep them.
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    • Day 42

      Reaching our northernmost point

      October 10, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      A fairly quiet day today. After breakfast Amr went for his ritual sauna and walk round the deck. On deck 5 you can walk right round the ship - he says 5 laps is just over a km! It is always nice to get out there and watch if it’s not too cold or breezy! At 11.15 we docked at Honningsvåg which is where some people went on an excursion to the North Cape marker. We contented ourselves with a wander through the town which did not take long...we did go into the North Cape museum though which was interesting and well displayed. This place, like so much of the coast of Norway, was burnt to the ground by the Germans when retreating, so it also is rebuilt, and quite pretty and neat. Of course, it is basically just a fishing town. We are way above the tree line now, and the land we see is just rocky crags. Any trees in the town were planted, and probably have trouble thriving.

      Since leaving Honningsvåg we have been going out in the open sea and have to take care walking around, quite rocking! And I think this will continue as looking at the map we are out in the Norwegian Sea till we reach Kirkenes tomorrow morning. At the moment we have just pulled in to a fjord so it’s relatively calm, but we’ll be out in the open again soon, and continuing north till we reach our northernmost point before turning southeast to reach Kirkenes. There will be a few offload stops during the night, but for passengers that is the next port.

      Kirkenes is the end of the voyage for quite a few people who just do the northern journey, though quite a lot of people are, like us, continuing on the southward journey back to Bergen. So tomorrow there will be the bustle of people disembarking and others embarking.

      And today we did see rain for the first time!! There wasn’t much, and although it is quite cold, it wasn’t snow, so not that cold. By the time we walked around the town this morning it was quite bright, and though clouds are about there is also quite a lot of clear sky. I looked up the weather for tomorrow in Kirkenes and supposedly there will be snow overnight, but cloudy and little chance of precipitation in the daytime. That is so good as we have signed up for a walk to the Russian border! We do go part of the way in a bus, but then have a 4 km hike, which they have already warned will be wet underfoot. Glad I haven’t cleaned the mud off my shoes since the last muddy walk!

      Now sitting quietly - Amr got us prime position chairs at the front - which is good for now. There are many sitting places and chairs and it is usually easy to find a cosy place to sit and read etc. with a view looking out at the passing spectacular scenery. It is getting too cold to sit outside for too long, although there is one outside place that has heaters and is partially glassed in. There are 2 “public” decks where you can find places to relax - 4 and 7. The other decks are just cabins. 4 and 7 have bars, the dining room, lots of room for everyone, although I don’t think we are filled to capacity. Let’s hope for anther fine day tomorrow.
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    • Day 43

      Kirkenes, a beautiful walk in the snow

      October 11, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

      This morning we arrived at Kirkenes at about 9am. During the night there was quite a swell and rocking of the ship in the Barents Sea, but rather than feeling queasy we slept well. On arrival at Kirkenes there was an enormous low grey cloud hanging on one side, and semi brightness on the other...we feared the worst, but amazingly we were lucky again. The rain was actually a dusting of snow, and it had obviously been snowing overnight, but when we disembarked it was fine and remained bright for our hike to the Russian border.

      We were so glad to do this hike. Partly because it’s so nice to get off the ship to exercise, and also we now know the guides a bit, and they are funny, informative and friendly...and helpful if anyone needs it walking in the sometimes tricky conditions. The small amount of snow made it easier walking in a way - it firmed up what would have been sloshy mud, though there were many hazardous parts, but not any steep climb, just a bit of gradual uphill.

      We were taken by bus (about 15 of us this time) for a short distance, then walked along a mountain track to the border. But this was not the part of the border that another group who took a totally bus tour - they went where there are tourist shops and an official border area. We got to a high point, and there was a yellow post which marked the end of Norway, and another green and red post a metre or so further on, and if you went beyond that post you would get fined (better than shot!)...there was no barrier and nothing to stop you walking right into Russia. But they showed us a tower on the opposite mountain that has a camera and it watches the border, and people straying actually get identified and fined!! So that was lots of fun and we didn’t stray, and got back to the ship before it left at 12.30.

      There was something funny about the time as the photos I took (till my phone’s battery died, it is in a serious condition) had a time that was an hour ahead, and I think we strayed into the next time zone. The ship didn’t change time, and I find it hard that a small section of Norway would have a different time, but we are far East. In fact, after we left Kirkenes and started the return journey we stopped briefly at Vardø which is the easternmost town in Norway, and is further east than St Petersburg and Istanbul. Weird to think about.

      I am going to post a photo of the northern lights we saw last night (again - we have been so lucky, and they say tomorrow night is another good possibility). The photo was taken by someone else with a new iPhone with a better camera that you can adjust, and it shows the green that is hard to see with the naked eye. At least it confirmed that I was looking at the right thing, but it looked like a light part of the sky, not really colourful.

      So now cruising and relaxing till dinner, sipping a Portuguese wine. And I think it’s reindeer for dinner tonight!
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    • Day 44

      Hammerfest, the northernmost town

      October 12, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

      I am very slack today...it is 10pm and am just getting to remembering the day. This is partly because this afternoon Carole suggested we do one of the jigsaw puzzles that they have (and games etc) and we chose one with 1000 pieces, and of course got obsessed (and have succeeded in doing just a very small amount...but that was the time I would usually be writing. So am going to be quick as tomorrow we have an early start...we are off on an excursion at 8am, first on a bus, then a ferry, then a 5 km walk...then we get back on the boat at the next stop...

      Anyway, today has been fairly leisurely. We are now back round the top of Norway and the first stop long enough for getting off was Hammerfest, the northernmost town in the world. It said 2° there but it felt icy. It is equal in latitude to northern Siberia. And it felt like it, and this is only October, not even winter. We had a walk round, and like most of the towns, it is fun to walk round but not very exciting. They look very pretty as you sail in and the houses are all very rectangular and neat, and often colourful, but at this time of year not much is open - cafes etc. there are often very modern and beautiful churches. A far cry from the huge medieval ones we see on the Camino! And it is all very friendly and easy, but usually we come back to the ship before too long. All these towns along the coast were bombed or burnt down during the war, and so almost all the houses are built in similar practical style which is why they look so uniform (except the art nouveau town we visited on the second day). Today we got back before the excursion people would be back and leapt up to the jacuzzi and were in a lovely bubbly hot tub as we left port!! Felt very decadent!

      Hammerfest is the richest town in the area because of oil. It has a big LPG plant where they freeze the oil and liquefy it so that it can be exported. The plant actually was made in Spain and then brought to Norway and set up here!

      So this afternoon we cruised along and all the big craggy mountains we had seen before now have a dusting of snow on top and look even more like postcards. I realised as I was doing the puzzle that I was doing it and not looking at Norway, so maybe we will never finish it!! Tonight we had dinner of pollack, another very favourite fish here (after cod and salmon)...very delicious white and firm. The cod however is famous and joked about. It is the livelihood of many Norwegians and Amr tells me he heard it has now replaced someone famous and is on the 200 kroner note! There are many funny cod songs!! I went out on deck after dinner, really to look at the full moon, and there were the northern lights again! I spotted them before they announced it, we are getting so used to seeing it almost every night - because of the clear sky.
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    • From Alta to Honningsvag

      February 28, 2020 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ -11 °C

      Today we left Alta and headed North to Honningsvag. Every day I say to myself this is the most beautiful I have ever seen and then there is the next day with even more beautiful views. Today we passed ‘nowhere’ land with fantastic polar views and we enjoyed the almost 7 km Nordcape tunnel. Seeing this al absolutely increasing my respect for our planet. Tomorrow we will reach the Nordcape and after that we going east to Russia before we are starting our decent south.Read more

    • Day 7

      Sendepause, oder wie geil ist das denn?

      February 28, 2020 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ -3 °C

      Wir sind gerade etwas erschlagen von neuen Ereignissen und Eindrücken. Infos folgen...
      Im nördlichsten Fischerdorf den frischesten Fisch den man sich denken kann, mit Hammer Fischsuppe und Kings Crabs... Genialer Gastgeber mit noch besseren Tipps..Read more

    • Day 7

      Weil es so Spaß gemacht hat...

      February 28, 2020 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ -3 °C

      Das Team von Plan B war verzweifelt auf der Suche nach einer Karotte. Nach langwierigen Verhandlungen haben wir die dringend benötigte Karotte geliefert und Plan B um ein paar Liter Heidegeist erleichtert... Der Schneemann wurde super... ;-)Read more

    • Day 7

      Sie haben ihr Ziel erreicht

      February 28, 2020 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ -2 °C

      😍🇳🇴🐷 Unglaublich, wir konnten noch nachm Fischessen ans Nordkap hoch mit weiteren 15 Autos, ne ganz kleine Reisegruppe. Und das Allerbeste, wir durften sogar mit unserm Bussle direkt vor an die Weltkugel fahren, was nur 6 Autos isngesamt dann machen konnten von 65 Rallyeteilnehmern...Read more

    • Day 7

      Aurora Borealis

      February 28, 2020 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

      Am zweiten möglichen Tag, direkt am Nordkap haben wir sie endlich geballt gesehen 😍🐷 einfach ne geniale Sache wie plötzlich der Himmel heller wird und aber auch schnell wieder weg ist. Die eigentlich richtige Fahrt ans Nordkap ist heute, aber durch nen coolen Tip unseres Herbergenchefs, sind wir schon gestern abend raus ans Nordkap gefahren und konnten in Ruhe tolle Bilder schiessen. Heute um 9.00 Uhr gehts nochmals im Convoy mit 60 Teams raus, mal schauen wie das tagsüber so ausschaut.
      Wir sind aber sowas von happy, dass wirs gestern schon gemacht haben.
      Die Hälfte der Tour ist somit erledigt...
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Finnmark Fylke, Finnmark, Finnmárku

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