to the End of the Earth & back

February 2018 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Rita Read more
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  • Day 27

    Ciao for now

    March 17, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Well, last morning of the trip, the clouds are back, but I'm determined to have one more walk. I head down along Av de Mayo, to the Presidential Palace - only to realized I'd walked briefly past before. But that's okay, along the way, I poked my head in Cafe Tortoni which has been in business since the 1800s I think. The decor was vintage and I did wish I had the time to savor a coffee or something in there.

    Once I reached the square, it was time to turn back the other way and head in the direction of the National Congress. As you head towards it, the last few blocks are free of buildings, covered by a mostly green lawn and garden so you can see the building on your approach. Thinking back now, perhaps I should've tried to see if I could go inside for a visit.

    Turned a few more streets to head back to the hotel. Somehow I always seem to lose track of time as I walk along, but today, I had to be back on time. It's been a wonderful 4 weeks, gorgeous scenery, wonderful people, delicious food, amazing sights. That's why we travel, to experience to world. Til next time! Hopefully sooner than later ;)
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  • Day 26

    Last Full Day

    March 16, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Talk about good timing! My temporary passport was ready to pick up this morning and then back out to explore once more. Today's my last full day in Buenos Aires (though I'm sure I will be back at some point!) I'm getting quite comfortable with the buses and metro =) By now, the security guards at the embassy also know me haha.

    After picking up my passport, I head to the UN Plaza nearby to get a few photos of the Floralis Generica, a large silver tulip installation. There are a few busloads of tourists, but otherwise not crowded. Next the planetarium to check it out, except I forgot the presentation would be in Spanish. Oops, still fun though!

    The mish mash of the day continued with checking things off my list before I had to go home. Popped over to the Cathedral to see where Pope Francis resided, then a long walk to the bus station to arrange my transport to EZE tomorrow. From there, a long walk through various neighborhoods to pick up chocolate and amazing ice cream from Rapa Nui. Their chocolate is from Bariloche, Argentina and came highly recommended. After sampling various flavors in my travels, I went for good old vanilla and chocolate this time. Must admit, they were divine and definitely some of the best ice cream I've ever had.

    Onwards to El Ateneo (still on foot, yes I love walking!) a famous fancy bookstore that was transformed from a theatre. It's interior is so grand as the seats have been removed, replaced with rows upon rows of bookshelves. You can tell who the visitors are as everyone freezes on every level in multiple spots, snapping away. On what used to be the stage area is a cafe where you can sit down for coffee and dessert. A grand piano takes a spot in the corner, for live music sessions that I"m sure are super cool.

    More wandering through the neighborhoods and various main drags, I forget their names now. Everything the architecture is simply stunning.
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  • Day 25

    Continuing Explorations

    March 15, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    With the process of a replacement passport in process, and out of hands, it was off to continue exploring the city. I only needed to be able to check email at some point this afternoon to see if there was anything more, but other than that, my time was mine again.

    Started today with a tour of the Teatro Colon, an impressive opera house, and the orchestra was in, rehearsing for tonight's performance. Towards the end of our tour, we slipped into the auditorium, into box seats and just took in the acoustics and music. Tickets for shows are normally expensive, so getting a taster of a preview made the visit extra special.

    Then off to the metro to head to Barrio Chino aka Chinatown. Buenos Aires' Chinatown is actually really small, in fact only a few blocks, but it's packed with knick knack shops, restaurants and even supermarkets. It wasn't too hard to find with my trusty map app, and in fact even before I arrived, I walked through another neat neighborhood that I'd love to explore more another time. But getting back to Chinatown, you see the traditional gate and you head under.

    I had originally figured I'd be in and out in about half an hour, but this trippy visit caught ahold of me as I wandered store after store, even knowing there was nothing I wanted to buy. I went on a bubble tea hunt, only to learn it was only available on weekends. I stopped by the supermarket and picked up a sushi roll, presented in a way that puzzled me into I peeled back the saran wrap to discover a Pez-like manner of eating it. I heard Chinese pop songs on the radios and even found a favorite drink in the supermarket.

    An hour and a half later, back the way I came, back on the metro and off to the Rose Garden that the weather had denied me yesterday. It really is quite something to behold. The large grounds boasts a variety of roses, literally please do stop and smell the roses, as well as bridges, lakes and gazebos. Ducks and geese grace the waters and it's a popular photo spot for locals and visitors. Oh, and it's free to visit.

    Continuing on foot, I make my way to the Japanese Gardens nearby. It turned out to be quite a bit of a walk, but completely worth it. Admission is inexpensive and one really finds a sense of zen inside. It's as if the busyness of the city stops at the garden's borders. I easily wandered down paths, admiring the trees and greenery, the Asian bridges and stone waterfalls. I suppose it really feels like a piece of Japan - I've never been but one day.

    The gardens ready to close and I hop a bus back to the hotel for a break before venturing out tonight. I've got a ticket for Teatro Ciego - Sonada 360 tonight, a sound only theatre experience in what you could call a theatre of the blind. My local friend had helped me secure a ticket yesterday (and traveller's tip, they have advanced sales and discounted sales just like New York).

    The theatre is a few stops away on the Metro and not too hard to find, though the side street it was located on was a bit dark and the theatre was a lot smaller than I imagined. For the 830pm show, there were only 9 of us. One of the reasons I picked this particular performance was because there was no dialogues, very handy for visitors who don't speak too much Spanish. The intro in the lobby was in Spanish, but we managed fine.

    Heading in to the theatre was the beginning of quite the experience. I haven't been to restaurant like Dark Table (where you eat dinner in pitch black) but I'd seen the movie "When in Rome". We were led in separately, our hand on the shoulder of the person in front of us. I kid you not, it was beyond pitch black. You cannot see anything - and of course that's the point. I reach my other hand to feel for my seat and sat down. Our guide headed back for the other half of our group.

    My eyes try to adjust but there's nothing to focus on. They begin to see things, imagine things, working too hard. The show starts, the music swells and sound effects plays. I try to picture what could be happening. The performance was going well until the sound cuts out. We sit still in the room, wondering what was happening, and then our guide comes back into the room with a flashlight. The illusion now broken.

    Without spoiling it for you, I could see the room. I think that says it all. The power was out to the entire block and they had to cancel the rest of the shows that evening. We were offered tickets to come back, but as I was leaving in two days, and the illusion broken, I was able to offer them to my friend so she could visit for a play. I was definitely a little disappointed the show couldn't go on, but it allowed me some night photo time around the Obelisco and sights near by.
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  • Day 24

    Back in BsAs

    March 14, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So about that passport hiccup, somehow rain had gotten on my passport, right on the photo page and caused it to fade, so much that I was told to go to the Canadian Embassy first thing in the morning. I guess the replacement passport needed to happen right away in BsAs instead of after I got home.

    The process actually turned out relatively painless, save for the cost itself. From my hotel on Ave Corrientes, I decided to hop on the metro, little did I know the metro doesn't actually stop near the embassy - a bus or walking would've been better given that I'd even gotten off one stop too late. Nevertheless, once I got there, it was pretty straight forward. The receptionist spoke English and I didn't have to wait long to meet the Consular Assistant who went over my options, the forms with me and gave me a map of where I could take passport photos.

    Between the photos and filling out the form, I spent my morning there before heading back to San Telmo to meet a friend for lunch. This time I took the bus after getting some info from locals. And then back to the hotel where I met up with another friend who lives there. Turns out she's Canadian so we headed back to the embassy before the end of day so she could sign a new form for me as my guarantor.

    We had a funny moment on the bus, a story that I like to tell. My friend lives in Buenos Aires and speaks Spanish, but on the bus, she asked me if it was our stop. I looked around and my recognition memory jumped in. Yup, and we scrambled off the bus but not before she called out "Thank you" to the driver and I called out "Gracias!" Are we Canadian or what? And then language swap made us laugh so hard. I guess also it was reasonable she asked me the stop since she probably hadn't been to that location of the embassy. If someone asked me the same thing in Vancouver, I probably wouldn't know either.

    Anyway, after leaving the embassy, we got back on the bus to explore the city. Initially we were going to walk through the Rose Garden and then up through Palermo. Mother Nature decided to unleash some wet weather though and we found ourselves running back to the bus stop after changing our minds. The thunder rumbled on as we strolled through the streets of Palermo Soho. Most businesses were closed, the pubs and restaurants still quiet.

    We could almost tell when the storm would pick up again and found shelter under an awning of a street corner, watching the lightning, counting the seconds between the thunder and observing the rain levels growing to street flood levels. Though it didn't recede as fast as it came down, once the rain stopped, the temporary rivers of rain dropped into the drains by the curbs.

    The skies would brighten up again as we wound away through the main streets, taking in the street art. Not as colorful as the ones from Valparaiso earlier this trip, but still very cool and creative. Another thunderstorm cell arrived and we sough shelter in a cafe just in time before it poured again, and then clear again. By now, the neighborhood was started to waken and become alive. Bars were filling up and hungry locals packing the restaurants.
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  • Day 23

    Paris with Flip Flops

    March 13, 2018 in Uruguay ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We've all heard Buenos Aires is the Paris of the South, so what does that make Montevideo? Our free walking tour guide nailed it "Paris with Flip Flops". With a smaller population, Montevideo has a similar European feeling to that of Buenos Aires, but with a more casual air. Making the most of my day until my evening ferry to BsAs, I'm started out the day with a free walking tour (an activity I suggest wherever you can, and tip your guide, because it really gives you a good sense of history as well as lay of the hand).

    Curioso Free Tour is the one I joined today as I arrived at the Plaza Independencia too early for the tour I planned to take, or that I thought I'd planned to take. Curioso was actually the one I'd initially found online. Our small English speaking group headed off to explore what Montevideo had to offer. The guide was relaxed and very knowledgeable as he took us to the Mausaleo de Artigos, a hero of Uruguayan independence, Teatro Solis, through the old town streets, to the port, the market, the squares, the cathedral, palaces and past several museums. We even sampled Grappa Miel, a honey spirit that I ended up coming with a bottle of. Probably the best souvenir that I could've gotten.

    By the way, local tip. Some people come to Uruguay to reset their stay count for Argentina, and while you're here, you can also take out US dollars and break the bills to smaller denominations so you're not forced to exchange more than you want back in Buenos Aires.

    At the end of our tour, I said goodbye to the group and headed off on my own to find lunch. I'm determined to have a chivito, aka the Uruguayan sandwich. After a bit of searching, I return back to one of the squares where I'd spotted a restaurant with it on the menu. There's another spot near the southern entrance of the Mercardo del Puerto that also looked good. Eating at the square though allowed me time to head to the cemetery to check out some of the sculptures.

    Montevideo's cemetery is nowhere near as busy as La Recoleta in Buenos Aires. I much preferred this one and wish I had more time to walk around. They close at 4pm and I arrived at 345pm. Still if you plan your day well, definitely worth a visit. They also have a tour on Tuesday nights where a guide takes you around and tells you stories of some of those whose bones rest here.

    The cemetery behind me, I head back to the Old Town and Palacio Taranco, which our guide had pointed out earlier. Luckily it was still open for another hour or so. The architects of this fine place also designed the Petit Palace and Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Admission is also free. I was wandering the walls when I realized this was actually one of the few places that I had previously wrote down about to visit. With all the wandering, I'd completely forgotten til then, talk about a pleasant surprise.

    A bit more time in the southernmost capital of the world, I browsed through the artisan market near the port before checking in for a 2 hour ride ferry ride back to the Buenos Aires. A little immigration hiccup on the way - but more on that tomorrow.
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  • Day 22

    Uruguay "Weekend"

    March 12, 2018 in Uruguay ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Monday and Tuesday can be a weekend, right? Got up bright and early this morning to catch a ferry to Colonia in neighboring Uruguay. When I'd first started planning this trip, I had a lot of thinking to do about how to incorporate a visit to Colonia and Montevideo since I had a couple of extra days in Argentina. Did I want to lug everything with me? Take two separate day trips? How about a loop? Which direction should the loop go? Finally I settled with a morning in Colonia, followed by a bus ride to Montevideo, spend the night, the next day and then back to Buenos Aires. It was cost effective, one ferry there, one inexpensive bus, and one ferry back. Timing-wise, it was also perfect to check out of one hotel, leave my big bag, then come back, pick it up and check into another hotel in another neighborhood.

    So the ferry - due to the early hour, I hopped into a cab to get to the Buquebus terminal near Puerto Madero. Ferry tickets were easily pre-bought online, or you could buy at the terminal. The ride is only an hour, this is the shorter of the two routes, but it's really cold on board as my roommate warned me. Make sure you bring something warm.

    Arriving in Colonia, it's a short walk to the Old Town where most people go. I stop to get a bus ticket for Montevideo that afternoon before setting off. I've been told the town can be seen in a few hours, and the staff in the bus station echoed this. It's a nice easy walk and the few sites are clustered together. Once you get to the old gate, this Unesco site is easy to explore and meander the morning away. Walk along the water, go pass Calle de los Suspiros. Not quite the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, but still with its own backstory like criminals being led to their deaths or sailors visiting brothels after lengths at sea. Go up the lighthouse to get a view of the town, the weather was fairly clear and you can see some of Buenos Aires skyscrapers in the distance.

    From Colonia to Montevideo, it's about a 3-3.5 hour bus ride. The neat thing about this part of the travel is getting to see a little bit more of Colonia, the Uruguayan countryside and the local side to Montevideo when you get in, since you'll find yourself spending most of your time in visitor hotspots. Our arrival point in Montevideo in Tres Cruces, part mall, part bus station. It's about an hour's walk from the beaches, but the walk is pleasant.

    This afternoon I'm first heading to the Montevideo sign in Pocitos. A landmark I'd debated about visiting since it seemed so far removed from everything else. I probably could've taken a local bus, but I like walking, and this way I can also check out the architecture. From here, I stroll down La Rambla towards central, making my way to Ramirez Beach (this one recommended by a friend) for sunset. I hadn't read about it previously in my research, and it's a great spot to park oneself and just let time pass and let the sun down. The beach faces the Rio Plata to the west and this was easily one of the most spectacular sunsets I've every seen.

    As night drew, I continued along the Rambla to take in as much of the 22km+ route that I could, along the water. Locals were out in numbers in the summer evening, exercising, drinking mate and just hanging out. Sunlight became replaced by night light as I headed to my hotel in downtown for the hotel to wrap a relaxing but still full exploring day.
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  • Day 21

    Farewell Ushuaia, Farewell Patagonia

    March 11, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    All good things must come to an end. Today marks the last day of this leg of the trip for me. We bid farewell to some new friends and the cold weather, returning north to bustling Buenos Aires. Goodbye penguins, goodbye glaciers, goodbye Patagonia. Til next time ;)

    The warmth of the sun greeted us as landed at AEP and it was summer again. We piled back onto a van to our hotel and then almost headed out again right away. We checked out colorful streets in La Boca, and then wandered the Sunday market in San Telmo. Some of the streets were packed while others were astonishingly quiet in stark contrast.

    La Boca isn't too large a neighborhood to explore. The birthplace of tango has a few streets of interest to visitors. Colorful buildings draw your attention and street air depict life scenes. We had a chance to check out one of the houses, now converted into a restaurant to see how tight quarters people were packed into to live.

    Later in San Telmo, I was glad to have another chance to check out the market since I'd missed it earlier on. This old neighborhood had lots to offer this Sunday afternoon. Various artisanal and antique stalls lined the streets. Tango dancers and musicians played in a small square, while I stopped for a Dulce de Leche Frappuccino in a Starbucks located in a historic building. Several stores even offered dulce de leche tastings, of which there were many varieties. As always, don't forget to look up to see the old architecture that still remains. There's ornate decor and there's more in other BsAs neighborhoods as well.

    Next Florida Street, pedestrian only and lined with shops for the shopper in you. Some were already closed because it was Sunday and the evening was drawing near. Still neat to walkabout though, and less crowded.

    Tonight, I normally would've gone to the farewell dinner, but had prebooked a tango show and dinner instead. Given the choice again, I would've gone to the dinner and done the tango show another night since I would have more time in town. It would've been nice to hang out with everyone once more, but alas. We don't say goodbye, only see you later.

    My roommate and I walked to the restaurant nearby. Oddly enough my prebooking had included a transfer which we found extremely hilarious since we really were going 3 blocks away. The entrance though was not quite as easy to find, as only one of the sets of doors was the actual entrance. We arrived quite early though you could arrive later as well, depending on your time. Dinner included unlimited drinks, and since I don't drink much wine, our 1 bottle to share was a bit of a challenge. Must say though, the syrah malbec was really nice and hopefully I'll be able to find something similar at home.

    Food-wise, we had our choice of appetizer, main and dessert, all of which were Argentinean and delicious. I settled for another steak, but just couldn't finish it. An advantage of arriving early is not waiting too long for your food, and we had plenty of time to chill out before the tango show began.

    The lights dim and you're taken through the history of tango starting back in the late 1800's and early 1900's I think, progressing through dance numbers and musical breaks up until the present. Early tango seemed more conservative with the times, and it's the later rhythms and melodies that we find familiar and associate with modern tango. The show is a wonderful note to end the tour on.

    Tomorrow, I'm back on my own and off to Uruguay for 2 days before venturing back to the Argentinean capital.
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  • Day 20

    Meeting Penguins

    March 10, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Let's cut straight to the chase and highlight of this part of the trip. Meeting penguins. You heard right, this afternoon we're going back to Isla Martillo by way of Estancia Haberton and zodiac, to land on the island and walk amongst our new little friends. There's a few rules to keep in mind, stay on the marked paths, don't touch or engage the penguins and be quiet. The practice is for minimal impact on the penguins, after all, the Isla is their home and we're the guests, just quietly passing through. Oh, and the most important rule of all, you cannot take one of these penguins home.

    We do a beach landing on the opposite side of where we were yesterday so that we would start our walk through the nesting area where burrows have been dug, and some of the penguins are changing their feathers for the season. Some of them are still patchy. Magellans are everywhere and our camera happy fingers went click click click again. Our guide explains more about the penguins, but I'm so far behind (there's also no running) yet more than content to take more photos and just watch the penguins, some of who look back at us.

    On the other side of the island, we wander the beach that we couldn't step foot on yesterday. There are some gentoo penguins on this side, they're got the orange feet. And we were even in luck, the 2 king penguins from yesterday are still here. Our guide allows us to go closer, but only in a single file to take a few quick photos each. Our time on the island comes to an end much too soon. And with that, our tour as well. When we get back into town, we'll be having our pre-farewell dinner. I say pre because we leave Ushuaia in the morning along with a few friends staying behind to embark on an Antarctic adventure.

    Side bar - after visiting the penguins, we would return to Haberton and visit their marine museum run by volunteer students. A very neat place to check out while you're there and learn how to differentiate the different wildlife in the area. We'd also stop by a place in the forests where the trees appear to grow sideways.
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  • Day 19

    Finding Penguins

    March 9, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    There's lots to do in and around Ushuaia, and if you plan it well, you can find yourselves with two full days. 3 even if you can. Everyone does the Beagle Channel Cruise, but other options include hiking in Tierra del Fuego National Park, glacier hiking, horseback riding, canoeing and more. Our group did a bit of a scatter, but this afternoon we were all on our included Beagle Channel Cruise.

    A bit of a lazy morning, in hindsight, I wish we'd gotten up early and checked out the national park. There's a number of trails, though the bus only runs at certain times and we didn't want to risk missing the cruise later. So, around town we wandered. Heading out along the water, then back to the main drag. In and out of tourist shops from one end to the other. The weather held out beautifully, the weather gods returned and smiled upon us. The winds were still strong though and you'd be advised to have the thermals handy.

    There's two tourist shops of note to check out. Both are on the main street, and you'll notice the first right away with prisoner figures all about it. Ushuaia, like Australia, was built by prisoners, the former from Spain. In the back of the first shop "La Ultima Bita", you'll find a large backyard display of prisoners of the past engaged in mining activities while authorities looked on and supervised. The second shop is on a corner a few blocks down on the opposite side of the street. I think they might be sister shops. The draw to this storefront is that they have rubber Ushuaia stamps you can mark your postcards with. Of course, we only stumbled upon this after we'd mailed our postcards.

    Speaking of postcards, the post office charges an arm and a leg for stamps, check out some of the local shops for stamps instead. That said, as far as I know, none of my postcards have arrived yet and we're coming up on a month. Not worried yet as it took 5 months for a postcard to arrive from Petra, Jordan.

    And speaking of stamps, don't forget to get your passport stamped with the "Gateway to Antarctica" stamp. There's another one for those who actually go to Antarctica, no cheating! So I am returning one day =) By the way, to tide your penguin needs til need, there's lots of penguin things to buy, you might find yourself going home with one, or two, or three, or who's counting anyway?

    Back to our day, we headed down to the docks to board our boat to cruise through the Beagle Channel. It's about a 6 hour round trip and though picturesque, you may want to bring a book or cards, especially since we return in the night. And yes, it does get dark in March. The sail is a smooth one, grab a seat indoors but you'll find yourself outside for a good duration. We get some shore watching time, looking back at the city, pretty as it rests, nestled in front of mountains still capped with snow.

    We pass by a Chilean town on our way south, but it's population still hasn't reached that of a city yet, so Ushuaia retains its title of southernmost city for now. We pass a sunken boat with history that I can't remember. Then sealions and birds that look like penguins. And a lighthouse. Finally we reach Isla Martillo.

    Most of our small group braved the waves splashing up the front of the front of the boat, staking out a good photo spot for when we'd reach the island. It was windy, it was wet (and admittedly I stayed in a doorway til we were almost there). The boat slows as it approaches and dare I count hundreds of cute Magellanic penguins appeared before us. We were limited in our movements, but we made up for it in excitement and camera zooms and hundreds of photos.

    Among the Magellanic penguins were a few gentoo penguins as well and two king penguins, a rarity who we learned might be scouting for a home for their own colony. We lingered and lingered until the boat slowly pulled away again, returning the way we came. So many photos...so many penguins...must get more...
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  • Day 18

    Here at the End of the Earth

    March 8, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Today we embarked on a 12 hour journey to Ushuaia, the world's southernmost city and some would say to the End of the Earth. Well, if we're lucky, it's 12 hours and if not, well, it could be 20. It all depends on the weather at the Magellan Straight where a ferry would take us across. Luckily for us, the waters were fine to cross, but it was still super windy.

    We disembarked before the bus drove onto the ferry and then walked on. You can either sit inside or hang out above deck. The weather was nice, and a more adventurous option that also held photographic opportunities.

    Back on land, the drive was long, but picturesque. I wish I could've stayed awake the whole time. The landscape continued to be its gorgeous self, and here and there, we could spot wildlife watching us pass by. Our bus eventually rolled into a town where we'd transfer onto minivans to continue the journey south.

    But before we could, procedure had all our bags lined up next to the bus, ready to be inspected by customs and their canine colleagues to ensure we weren't bringing anything that would be detrimental to the national parks. It was an interesting exam to observe, but no excitement today.

    Our group snagged a minivan all to ourselves, which was nice. We even made stops for miel de lunas and churros at a well known bakery. This plus our snacks tided us over on our journey. As we approached Ushuaia, there were more and more trees covering the mountains, I almost felt like we were looking at the Rockies back home. The beauty of the region is something that never ceased to amaze us.

    At the end of the 12 hours, we were there. Ushuaia. A place we'd only previously read about, heard about, dreamed about. It almost felt unreal. Given the later hour, we'll just settle in tonight with a great steak dinner. Tomorrow, we resume our exploration and be on the outlook for penguins.
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