Ames

I’m one of the last to leave the albergue.

But that’s because everyone’s advised me to book my Santiago lodgings asap as it’s getting busy. It feels a bit presumptuous for my liking but I do so.

I also look at the map to see how far away the Camino is from the main road as well as elevation. I decide if my foot is too much I will head back to the road for the bus.

At this point I know I’ve done everything I can do all I can do to make it.

And I’m not too sure now why completely the Camino means as much as it does. It has gone beyond the original reasons for taking it on and something has taken root. Perhaps devotion to something outside myself, a commitment to transformation or completion. I don’t know. I just know I want to get there by my own merit.

And today I want to shave off as my kms with my own feet.

So I set off in the rain. The busy road making me acutely aware of how lonely this feels.

My pace is slow. And I’m aware of those behind trying to overtake me. I come up against hills with roots and stones as a path. I go slower not wanting to jar my foot again.

I continue up. I think about stopping at some cafes but I say no, wanting to gain as much distance while I can.

Although I do stop for a coffee. I realise my credentials got wet. This upsets me. But I decide they should be weathered afterall.

The sun comes out and layers need to come off. But I’m still painfully far from where I need to be. A 2 hour walk has already become a 3 hour one. I am fed up. My body hurts. My feet hurt and I also can’t sit down without intense pain thanks to the bike. So there’s no position which is comfortable. I can only put one step in front of the other and be proud of any distance I do, closing in on Santiago.

I decide to start the Camino podcast. As a relevant distraction to the length of time ahead of me.

I am half tempted to try for Santiago. Worried about what could go wrong between now and tomorrow morning.

But I arrive at the town and head to the albergue instead, after going to the church as you reach the town. My penultimate day of stamps.

I am emotional at the thought of finishing, but I remain feeling a little weary of tomorrow - as if I can’t quite believe I’ll be done tomorrow and this is over. A 20 day memory, over.

And what will await me on the other side of the Camino…Læs mere