Spain
Negreira

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    • Day 9

      Santiago to Negreira: +- 24 km

      October 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      We bid farewell to Santiago after dropping off our bags at the post office to be transported to our next destination. This service is a life saver. We carry our daypacks with water, rain gear, hats etc with us, while the rest of our luggage is forwarded to our next destination.

      No rain today but apparently tomorrow it'll start again with a vengeance, until the end of our Camino Finisterre.

      It was a foggy morning and we soon left Santiago behind. This new trail is quite different from the Camino Ingles. It is clearly a more affluent demographic, and we see far fewer ruins. People spend more money to maintain the old buildings, or build new ones. We saw a number of manicured gardens, but they are few and far between.

      We walked up a number of steep hills and down again to many tiny villages, some postcard perfect with ancient houses, beautiful rivers and lovely landscapes.

      Mariette and I both struggle with our feet at the moment. They are tired and sore and a few blisters are forming. We headed to the pharmacy as soon as we arrived in Negreira. Thankfully, while on the Camino, every pharmacy has at least one shelf of foot care products. No shortages here.

      Lunch was a delicious baguette with salami and cheese. Dinner was a cheese omelette and Mariette had a salad. Still no great choice on the menu when you try to eat before 9pm but the food we manage to get our hands on is always top shelf.

      Our albergue had a laundry so we also squeezed in a much needed wash and dry cycle before bed.

      I made a Relive but only remembered to turn it off about 3 or 4 hours after our arrival 🙂
      https://www.relive.cc/view/vmqX9Z7zKov
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    • Day 139

      Der Weg nach Finisterre

      July 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      In der Früh ist es schon neun Uhr vorbei, als wir das AirBnB soweit aufgeräumt haben, dass wir uns auf den Weg machen können. Letztendlich geht Addie schon voraus und ich starte mit Maru, Sam und Nathalie in den Tag. Amy und Sarah bleiben zurück, weil sie noch etwas in Santiago zu erledigen haben - sie werden später mit dem Bus nach Negreira kommen, wo wir übernachten wollen.

      Wir verlieren Nathalie recht bald und so verlasse ich Santiago mit Maru und Sam. Nach einer Weile sieht man zurück auf die Stadt und die Türme der Kathedrale. Ich kenne diesen Ausblick gut: den Weg Richtung Finisterre bin ich schon etliche Male gegangen.
      Wir machen bald unsere erste Kaffeepause in einer Bar in einem kleinen Dorf. Irgendwie landen wir bei sehr philosophischen Themen: was es bedeutet, glücklich zu sein und ob dazu Leid in irgendeiner Weise notwendig ist. Diese und andere Fragen des Lebens sollen uns noch den ganzen Tag begleiten und bei jeder Pause setzt jemand von uns dreien das Gespräch fort. Wir taufen uns scherzhaft "Philosophy Club" und sind selbst ganz angetan von unserem Gedankenaustausch. Besonders Maru geht in dem Gespräch total auf und ich bin wieder einmal sehr beeindruckt von seiner Weisheit und wie er es schafft, trotz Sprachbarriere seine Gedanken zum Ausdruck zu bringen.

      Selbst abends in der Herberge in Negreira, als wir am kochen sind, schneiden wir das Thema nochmals an, da Sam weitere Überlegungen angestellt hat und noch etwas hinzufügen möchte.
      Wir essen wieder einmal Pasta mit Gemüse, die Amy wirklich köstlich hinbekommen hat, und spielen ein paar Runden Karten, bevor wir ins Bett gehen.
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    • Day 61

      Santa Marina (bike day 1 / 45km)

      June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

      We switched from the feet to the e-bikes and thought we’d have a few easy going days. Well!! Let’s just say our batteries were very low when we ended and we were reintroduced to some muscles that had not been used for a long time. Definitely going to be stiff tomorrow. There is absolutely no way we could have done that without e-bikes. Some long and steep hills. So a good day of cycling and as always, with the hills we get great views.
      There was rain about so we hid under a bridge and ate our picnic lunch during a heavy shower. This made some of the paths a bit muddy. We were mostly on roads / paved surfaces and firm gravel but sometimes on stony paths up or down the hills. We could have stuck to the road but tried to follow the official bicycle Camino path.
      Our Albergue is set in a lovely country village with bordering farmlands and hills in the distance. The dark clouds added to the effect. We had a late start out of Santiago as we had to go and fetch our bikes, learn how pack them and then get to the start - the cathedral. Nothing happens early in Spain! As a result we got in quite late at 5pm but were happy we negotiated the bikes with no real issues. We ended with a nice home cooked meal and met a few lovely people, a Swedish lady who has walked so many Caminos now walking with her grandson, a very friendly german couple and a Portuguese group who were happy to chat and then went off to bed, but …
      The room was a mess and we didn’t know where anything was. Our walking backpack routine was so slick but now we have bicycle bags. Everything is in a new place I don’t know when we will get to bed!
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    • Day 16

      Day 32 Santiago to Negeria 654.5 km

      October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Did not want to get out of bed this morning. I was very "Cosy, Cosy"🤗

      But I did and joined the guy from Belgium and the two Italian women who were up as well
      We left for Muxia around 7 am

      It was a very wet walk with much appreciated sunny breaks😎
      I absolutely love my new headlamp😍 The lowest setting on it is as bright as the highest setting on my other one for sure👍 Thank-you Marissa 💖

      I had a freshly made Tortilla for my breakfast 😍 I never get tired of them.

      I also met a fellow, Patrick, from Ireland that has done the Camino 18 times! His first Camino was 22 years ago. He has seen many changes over the years.

      Our Albergue tonight is perfect. Hot showers ..... 2 sixty gallon tanks. No messing around with that here 😅

      My boots are filled with newspaper hoping they dry somewhat overnight🤞🍀🙏

      There must be at least 20 people here tonight. I am quite surprised because the weather is so poor and it's almost the end of October!

      Not too many pics today....
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    • Day 20

      Pause - Mittwoch Nr 3

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Puhhhhhhh hab ich mich grad ausgepowert. Viel bergauf, Kastanietten nebenher geübt und auch gespielt. Dann mal getanzt und mal eine geraucht. Aber seit 08:30 bis 13:20 schnurstracks vorwärts.

      Jetzt ess ich doch was, möchte heute noch ein paar gute km reinstöckeln, um länger Zeit am Meer zu haben.

      Jetzt hat mich der Camino wie letztes Jahr wieder voll eingenommen.
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    • Day 83–84

      Day 83 - Negreira to Vilaserío

      July 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Last night there was a fiesta in our hotel due to the local holiday and our room was above the bar - so not a lot of sleep!!
      However today was bright and dry so we were up and breakfasted in good time.
      Quite a short walk today 14km so off we went.
      We were back in a very rural aspect through woody groves and good open fields and landscapes. Passed a few other walkers - most seemed to be British- which was a first. Mary got chatting to a couple one from Finland and one from South Africa.
      We arrived in Vilaserío and had a coffee at the cafe. Then went to investigate the restaurant that we had planned for lunch - closed for the day 🙄
      As today was Mary’s birthday we had booked a cute Spanish Villa to stay in as a treat - but it’s in the middle of nowhere!! We decided to head to the accommodation and rethink plans. When we got there we opened the fridge to find it full of food, wine and beer 🙌🙌 we basically pay for what we use - amazing. 🤩
      So we settled in, showered and Simon prepared a lovely lunch for us both - with a bottle of wine 🍷
      The place is stunning with fantastic views of the local countryside.
      We hope for a great nights sleep - but have heard mozzies 😳
      We shall see.
      Last walk tomorrow, then onto Finisterre on Monday before the slow trek back East.
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    • Day 34

      On The Road to Muxia.

      April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      I never feel as if my camino is finished, until I get to Muxia. The number of pilgrims here is low, and it is easy to get an albergue. The scenery in these Galacian hills is also very nice. I am in a refurbished priest house next to an old church tonight. Very nice inside. Anyway a few pics from today.Read more

    • Day 30

      Day 1 to Finisterre

      May 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      I am feeling the effects of the advancing years. Every other time I’ve walked to the ocean, I’ve always stayed in a place about 4 km further than where I am today. It was a good idea to stop here, the Albergue Rectoral de Mamede. Private rooms are a bit pricier than I’ve encountered so far, but it’s nice, has hot water, a comfortable bed, and good places to hang the clothes outside to dry. My GPS shows 31 km and 800 m of ascent, so it wasn’t too shabby of a day.

      I left Santiago later than usual, almost 8 AM. This was because San Martin Pinario has a big buffet breakfast included in the Pilgrim price, so I thought I would take advantage and have some fruit salad, orange juice, toast with tomatoes and olive oil, it was glorious.

      I had not remembered the two pronounced climbs in today’s stage, but I will definitely remember them going forward. Another sign of advancing age! Thankfully, the last nine km were almost all shady, because the temperature was over 80 F (28 C) in the afternoon. Though that’s not extreme, it is hot to walk in the sun.

      One of the prettiest little villages anywhere on any Camino that I’ve seen is Ponte de Maceiras. An ancient bridge with a very full river, rushing underneath it, several old mills, an old church, and some beautiful stone houses. It’s always a good place to take off your shoes and soak your feet in the ice cold water. Someone had beat me to my favorite spot, but he graciously moved over so we could both fit.

      Leaving Negreira, I always stop at the sculpture dedicated to emigrants (Galicia had a huge number in the late 19th and early 20th century). I spend a few minutes sitting on a bench near there and thinking about all of the people in generations of my family who left their home country because of economic necessity. And that of course leads me to think about the millions of people who are suffering that same fate right now, for all sorts of reasons.

      There are lots of people walking to Finisterre. Predominant nationalities seem to be French, Italian, and US. There will be a group dinner for anyone who wanted to sign up, and since we are essentially in the middle of nowhere, I assume many will.
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    • Day 67

      Santiago (bike day 5 / 40km)

      June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Last day of cycling or walking started with light rain and mist. So beautiful and peaceful. The overnight rain made the paths muddy so we stuck to the roads and sealed paths. The roads were a bit slippery so we were extra careful and we took some photos today. We went off the Camino track to go to the view point which meant a serious climb but we had time and battery so why not?
      It turns out it is a walking track so bike access wasn’t possible AND we went downhill on a muddy rocky track and missed the long downhill on the road 😢

      Google maps then decided to take us the most complicated way to the bike rental shop but in fairness Santiago has one way streets in a spider web pattern and is a bit difficult. At one point I thought I must have selected pavements only?? Anyway we got there in one piece and felt like we had earned our burger!

      Our afternoon job was to sort out what luggage we were taking with us and what to send home. We can’t believe how much we had and we packed lightly we thought! We ended up selecting 18kg of stuff to put in a box - including our backpacks 4 pairs of shoes, sleeping bags and cloths we specifically thought we would need but now we don’t! Camino lesson #1!

      We went to Mass at the cathedral followed by an invitation to join young musicians and a priest for prayers with the Blessed Sacrament. On our way out we heard a choir practicing and it turns out there was a concert at 9:30 (Washington Cathedral Choir) which we stayed for. Their voices were beautiful and the acoustics in the Cathedral are top notch. (Some short videos attached). A lovely way to end.

      Tomorrow we have a few more things to do before heading off on Tuesday for the next part …
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    • Day 20

      Vilasero

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Nach guten 36 km endlich angekommen, geduscht, Waschmaschine 🥳🥳🥳, gerade läuft der Trockner und da ich schon wieder Hunger habe und hier heimisch gekocht wird, 🤔🤣🤣🤣 bestellt. Juhuuuuuuuuuu

      Ich bin echt baff und froh. Wenn ich mich und meinen Zustand zu Anfang der Reise zu heute vergleiche......

      Aber ich versuche auf dem Boden zu bleiben und habe noch was an sich zur Klärung.

      Heute in einer Woche bin ich irgendwie irgendwann in Porto und dann kommt wieder Realität. Im Vergleich zum letzten Jahr fühl ich mich als eins und nicht als Realität und Pilger. Kurzum hat mich das innere doch wieder geleitet und war als weg notwendig und seit gestern bin ich im direkten Anschluss letzten Jahres (Vergangenheit und Gegenwart) endlich Richtung Zukunft.

      Leicht wirds nicht was ich anstrebe und war es mir eigentlich nach Camino 1 schon klar. Gefehlt hat der Mut, die Überzeugung, der Weg Camino 2. Jetzt heißt es Energie tanken, noch mehr Überzeugung sammeln und dann anfangen wenn ich wieder im Leben bin. Schritt für Schritt und mir ist klar von Vision, Träumen allein und Gerede kann ich nicht existieren. Also Euros sind notwendig aber heißt ja nicht, dass man nicht zweigleisig fahren kann.

      Lieber Reisekaravanler Arbeitgeber. An meiner Einstellung wird sich nichts verändert haben. Aber Zeitpunkt nenne ich bald und Gespräch werde ich suchen. Freue mich auf eine offene Tür und kann nur um Verständnis in meiner Person bitten. Ich weiß was ich zu schätzen habe an mehr als fünf Jahren. Wie schon gesagt: Das gute bleibt das schlechte vergeht. Ich muss in meinem Leben mehr nach mir fragen.

      Ich freue mich schon sooooooo aufs Meer. Mal den ganzen Tag am Strand und in Zukunftsgedanken, Ordnung, Reihenfolge und Schritte planen. Auch hier erst das Fundament.

      Ich weiß schon einige an meiner Seite. Ich werds nie vergessen.

      Jetzt gibts erstmal gleich was zum mampfen.

      Bis später oder morgen

      💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋
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