Spain
Castrojeriz

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    • Day 18

      Hontanas to Frómista

      May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      Took a taxi at 7.30am from the mental hotel to the starting point. Had a good blether in Spanish with the driver, Antonio. Started walking and felt good straight away. Had a long day today and got a shorter day tomorrow... just cos of the difficulties getting accommodation. Bumped into Rowena and walked most of the day with her. Met Aleta again, probably won't see her until León. Made it into Frómista quite late but it's Sunday anyway......wenr into the church then managed to find a food place that opened at 8.30pm. Nice wee town.Read more

    • Day 28

      Fromista (24.7km / 348km)

      May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

      Our roommates set their alarm for 5:20 and put the light on which I suppose helped us leave by 7am. We started with a steep hill climb which warmed us up on a chilly 6 degree morning. Immediately followed by a very steep decline (18%). Apart from a couple of picnic spots and a small mobile cafe there was a 11km walk to second breakfast in Itero de Vega. There was a small Ermitage de San Nicolas ( originally a pilgrim hospital). We had a salad lunch at Boadilla del Camino. We could easily have stopped there but had 5.6km to go. We were very pleasantly surprised with a beautiful path than ran alongside a canal the whole way. The canal was originally used to transport wheat but is now used for irrigation and leisure (ferry ride). It was so peaceful just hearing birds, frogs and the wind in the wheat (listen to video).
      There is not much to say about Fromista - a bit dead! It is the southern most city along the Camino Frances and the epicentre of wheat growing in Spain and has 3 churches!
      So far, the Maseta is not what we expected. It had been described as “desert like”. I think a better description would be “plains” but we will see …
      Only 1 restaurant was open before 8 so it was packed with pilgrims and the kitchen couldn’t cope. The others opened after 8. We were the only pilgrims at mass which got a bit awkward when we were called up for a blessing. The priest spoke in Spanish but we seemed to understand each other. He seemed happy we were there and were married! He looked a bit like a Ruggier, my (Ant) moms family.
      We need an early start tomorrow as we haven’t booked accommodation. We want to stay at a Parochial (Parish) hostel which is first come first serve.
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    • Day 23

      Day 19: Castrojeriz to Frómista

      June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      Mileage: 16.5 miles
      Altitude gain: 840 feet (most of them all at once!)
      Altitude loss: 955 feet
      Weather: hot and sunny, but with a most welcome cloud cover at times. Rainy once we arrived in Frómista
      Total mileage: 226 miles

      It was a long day! After dropping down out of Castrojeriz and crossing some fields, it was a steep climb back up to the meseta, then a drop back down. It was also very sunny and warm today, which wore me out a bit, plus there weren’t many places to stop today, so we only had one break. I will say it was a very peaceful walk today, with no highway noise. Good to be off my feet this evening!

      1. Looking back over the valley and across to Castrojeriz on that mountain after our climb.
      2. Looking over the other side to the terrain for the rest of the day.
      3. I just love the poppies and can’t stop with the pictures of them.
      4. Still a variety of wildflowers along the trail, although we see new ones now.
      5. and 6. Midday cottonwood (?) forest.
      7. and 8. The meseta isn’t boring (to me, anyway) but it is very flat at times!
      9. We walked along the Canal de Castillo for the last few miles before Frómista.
      10. One last beer together before Angela has to leave tomorrow. It has been such a gift to have her here with me for the past two weeks.
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    • Day 28

      Day 19-Castrojeriz

      September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      When we arrived in Hornillos at 3pm yesterday, that wedding was in full swing. It kept going until 3am. How do I know? Some of the wedding guests stayed in the same casa rural (country home) we were in. Two men kept going in and out of the house and slamming the front door so we didn't get much sleep. The fireworks at midnight were pretty cool, though. I must still need to learn some lessons from the Camino because I took great pleasure in slamming the bathroom door at 6am.

      We walked about 13 miles today and had a rest stop about halfway through in Hontanas to have a cool drink and sweet watermelon. I expected to meseta to be all brown at this time of year but there were many trees and some green crops. The meseta is not completely flat either. It's more like flat hilltops with valleys.

      We walked through the ruins of the San Anton Monastery where our friend Kerrie volunteers. They have a rustic (no electricity) albergue there. Pat got excited when he saw that they have a telescope there, but we moved on because we like electricity.

      We're staying at Albergue Orion in Castrojeriz. They have a great courtyard for chatting and hanging laundry. A unique aspect of this albergue is that they make Korean food, so we had ramen for lunch and they're serving bibimbap for dinner.

      It's going to be warm tomorrow so we'll be leaving before sunrise.
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    • Day 28

      Day 19 - Castrojeriz

      September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      We walked 13 miles today, 2nd day on the Meseta. It is flater, and we are getting our Camino legs underneath us. So much so that 12 miles is almost easy (if it is flat, no wind, and no rain). Walked with another pilgram we met yesterday from Budapest Hungary for a few kilometers.

      We got to Castrojeriz and are staying at an albergue (semi hostel/ semi hotel), but our host serves Korean dishes. We had kimchi ramen noodles, mmm good, and are having Bibimbap (rice and a bunch of sides).
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    • Day 17

      Day 14 - Short day on the Meseta

      September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      “Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt." - John Muir.

      Day 14 - Castellanos de Castro to Castrojerez - 11km

      After being awoken before 6 am by some rude pilgrims, I ended up leaving in the dark at 7:30 am. First time I have had to use my headlamp to help ensure I don’t injure myself.

      Made the first couple of km as the sun was starting to rise, and stopped in the lovely town of Hontanas. You almost don’t realize it’s there until you are upon it, as it is hidden in a valley. I had a long stop here having tea and chatting with other pilgrims I have met previously (the ones from Munich). I then spent some time in the lovely and real Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Inmaculada Concepcion. This church was worth the short stop. Completely “real” and not full of gilt and ostentation. The warden let me in as it was still before 9am. She had these 8” long skeleton keys to open the doors. Super cool!

      I finally started back on way. As today was a short day, there was no rush. Tomorrow will be a different story - 20km planned. The way was uphill a bit to start and then fairly flat while walking in the fields. I eventually met up with a road that took me first to the ruins of the Convento de San Antón. The ruins themselves were beautiful. But, we encountered a bit of Camino magic here. A man from New Mexico (I think he name was Romano) was singing in the ruins. It was such a privilege to be there for that moment and made the stop all the more special.

      Onward along the road to Castrojerez with a smile on my face. Again, along the road for approx 3 km more. I got to town just after 11:15 and beat my pack here by at least 15 mins. I felt silly sending it such a short distance, but it is what it is! For what it’s worth, I think my ankle is appreciating not having the extra weight! By arriving early, I also missed the rain that came to the plains of Spain this afternoon. Yippee!

      Staying the night at Alb. Orien - an Albergue run by a Spanish man and his Korean partner. My short day was specifically so I could stay here as I know they serve Korean food for dinner. Needless to say, there are also a lot of Korean pilgrims here today. Dinner did not disappoint. Bibimap - a rice dish with mixed veg and ground beef. It was fabulous!!
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    • Day 16

      All Saints day

      November 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Big miscalculation on my part. I am in the Meseta part of the hike now. About 200 km through wheat fields with tiny villages.
      This being the Camino, I was certain that places for breakfast lunch or snacks would be open along the 30 km stretch to Castrojeriz.
      Not so. Nada. Zip
      Zero. So until about 30 minutes ago, I had one bottle of water. Have you seen me hangry??? Food... My hobby.
      So I arrive and he tells me dinner at 7 pm. Another four hours... I fainted. So he made a packaged soup for me, salad and gave me a slice of cake intended for dinner. I am alive and well.

      Lessons learnt? Don't hike without food and act like you dying when you need something. 😂😂😂
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    • Day 19

      Stage 17: Hornillos to Castrojeriz

      October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      20 km/ 12.4 mi, 39°-69°, about 5.5 hours. My slow must be getting faster. Beautiful fall day entering the meseta- the high central plain. All systems go, chugging along, only minor random complaints from the team.
      Gotta get this breakfast and dinner thing worked out. When breakfast is offered it's usually just coffee and bread, which doesn't get me far. Sometimes the first town with food options isn't for several miles and I'm crashing and burning by then. Dinner, when served early for pilgrims, is at 7:30, otherwise not till 8:30-9:00. Have to watch for grocery stores to stock up on sustaining snacks.
      Tonight I'm staying in a beautiful hotel built on the site of a Franciscan monastery. It's so lovely I may not want to leave, the gardens are gorgeous and full of scented herbs like rosemary, lavender and mint. Heavenly!
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    • Day 21–23

      Day 18 Hornillos d. Camino-Gastrojeriz

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      We all decided to start in shorts today, but it was a bit chilly until the sun came up. It turned out to be another beautiful sunny day. We stopped in Hontanas for a little break. I had a tasty piece of watermelon. The first I have seen in Spain. Our next stop was at the ruins of Convento de Anton. We passed under the archway Arco de San Anton. There is a very rustic Albergue still in operation there, but it has no heat, no lights and no meals are available. We ended our day in Gastrojeriz at Albergue Rosalia. Kim and I attended a pilgrim meditation, while Julie did some exploring around town. The pilgrims meal was quite good here.Read more

    • Day 19–20

      Day 16 Hornillos Day 17 Castrojeriz

      April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Today we begin the dreaded Mesaeta, mostly flat, mainly farmland and little shade for the next 10 days. Seems perfect to me? 22km today and people are having difficulties finding accommodations so tonight will try to book to Leon.
      It took 17 days but today (Sat) it rained HARD for a couple hours with a nasty wind. Of course we were ready with our rain pants in the backpacks 🤣 At least raincoats and poncho worked so we survived!
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