Ispanya
El Burgo Ranero

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    • Day 26 - Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero -18k

      24 Eylül 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I am in a private room in El Burgo Ranero right now. It is not luxury, but again, I can just spread my things all over the place so it works well for me. It also has a nice quiet outdoor space and I sat for a little bit in the sun (though not too long as I get enough sun every day). I will also not have to worry about bothering people with my snoring. I really don’t know how bad it is and if I discovered a better side to sleep on or not. I think I may try to record myself tonight and see.

      Today’s walk was 18kms and manageable. I stopped my usual every 5km or so and as usual, people asked if I was ok. I am kind of used to it now, but when one guy stopped and asked “tu bien”, I said yes, he didn’t believe me and continued to prob. I had my socks off as I like to let my feet breathe and so I guess he was very concerned about this. Then I got a little pissed off. I said “Tres Bien” and gave him a look. I know they think they are being kind, which is why I started to let it slide, but to then go on and on about it, that is just annoying.

      I am two days away from Leon (a big city) and am thinking of the supplies I may need. The one thing I have been debating is new shoes/boots. The ones I have are pretty tight and hot which is why I think I need to stop more than usual and let my feet breathe. Before I had left Canada I had decided at the last minute to take these boots. My ankle was still very weak and I didn’t feel supported in the Hoka’s I had bought. My ankle feels much better now, so I am thinking of possibly getting Altras. I have heard great things about them, especially the wide toe boot. I will probably take a look, but I am scared to give up my boots just yet. There is a couple tough areas coming up, plus the reality of more rain. I will let you know what I decide.

      Today’s walk was uneventful. It was mostly walking on a path beside the road. For a lot of it, I actually walked the road as it wasn’t a busy one (only 1 car passed the whole time). I like road walking as it is predictable. Not likely to have a loose rock in my way causing havoc when I step on it and twist something.

      I think I am going to sit down tonight and do some serious planning on my stops and perhaps reserve a little bit. It is getting really crazy out here and I hear so often people turned away. I have around 325 kms left. We officially passed the half way mark yesterday. This would mean I have roughly 16 days left if I do around 20km a day, not including a rest day. I think I may take a rest day in Leon and then we will see.

      Well, I better sign off now and do some planning and some eating.

      TTYL
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 40

      Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero

      19 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

      I didn’t take any photos today, it was wet and cold, and I was just wanting to walk fast to get warm. I am including a couple of photos that Roel took of me that show the wet conditions on the trails.
      We walked from the monastery albergue in Sahagún to a nice little albergue in El Burgo Ranero, just about 18 km. We had to use a hairdryer to try to dry our shoes and socks and other things enough so that maybe they’ll be dry by morning. Oh, and I ate the most delicious vegetarian meal I’ve had so far, check out the picture!
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 16

      Tag 16: Terrarillos - El Buego Ranero

      6 Mart, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      Das Erste, was ich hörte, als ich am Morgen aufwachte…:
      „Fuck!“ Mike regte sich in seinem Bett.
      „I need your help, let me turn on the light.“ Schnell stand ich auf und so standen Alex, Mike und ich in der Mitte des Schlafraums. „What is wrong?“, fragte Alex.
      „My Earplug is in my ear. I can not get it out.“ Mike drückte uns eine Pinzette und eine Taschenlampe in die Hand: „Please!“
      Zusammen fummelten wir in Unterhose an seinem Ohr herum. Aber da war nicht viel zu holen…
      Wir entschieden uns, im nächsten Ort einen Arzt aufzusuchen, um das Ohrproblem in den Griff zu bekommen.
      Als alle ihre Sachen zusammengepackt hatten, lag da plötzlich ein Ohrstöpsel auf dem Boden. „No, thats the other one, I can feel it in my ear.“, sagte Mike und fasste sich besorgt ans Ohr. So langsam wurden Alex und ich misstrauisch. „Show us the other one!“ Es stellte sich heraus, dass die ganze Szenerie ein falscher Alarm gewesen war…. Naja. Herzhaftes Lachen im Schlafsaal macht immer noch am besten wach.

      So standen wir da, kannten uns gerade mal zwei Wochen und doch waren wir uns vertraut wie enge Freunde…
      Inzwischen ist nicht mehr zu leugnen, dass ich die beiden Spinner wirklich lieb gewonnen habe.
      Mal vertauschen sie am Morgen ihre Sohlen in den Schuhen und fluchen den ganzen Tag über die anderen verpeilten Pilger, nur um dann am Abend festzustellen, dass sie sich gegenseitig die Einlagen weggenommen haben. Mal diskutieren wir persönlich und emotional über alles Erdenkliche. Einfach herrlich.

      Das Highlight des Wandertages war wohl das Fußbad am Fluss mit einem Schweineohr, das mir Alex angeboten hatte. Auch wenn das Ding wirklich nicht mein Fall gewesen war; die Stimmung des Ortes war bezaubernd…

      Insgesamt haben wir heute 32 km gemacht. In der Herberge, einem ‚Donativo‘ mit 100% Selbstversorgung, sitzen wir nun gemütlich beim Kaminfeuer und genießen die Gespräche. Vertreten sind 7 Nationen und viele unterschiedliche Blickwinkel auf das Leben.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 22

      By volume, an A+

      13 Nisan, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      First time I've gotten an entire bottle of wine included, that's for sure. Taste wise, pretty decent too. €14 and I'm happy and ready for bed.

      Edited to add: in preparation for bed I've realised I've lost my battery pack, most likely in Hontanas when I charged it after the USB lid walk. This actually is frustrating given it's new and useful and I should be more organised than this but it's also Just A Thing and I'm not going to lose sleep over it. It is one of the miracles of travelling alone that I get to decide exactly how much weight to give everything. One quick GRRRRR and we move on.Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 23

      Booming

      14 Nisan, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      I am sitting here in utter disbelief at the RUCKUS being caused by, and I'm not generalising here as it's a fact, men between 50 and 65. This albergue has three upstairs rooms but it's a loft style roof, meaning the walls don't go up all the way, there's a gap and we all share airspace.

      I have the bunk withdrawal process down to an absolute minimum in terms of time and decibels. I come to the communal area (and if there is none, outside) and do my dressing and deodorising and repacking and zipping there. It's surprising how much variation there is in the rush hour albergue by albergue, some you don't hear anyone move until 7, others are earlier.

      I was downstairs by 5.30, joined by another decent human being at 5.45 and then from 6 I actually don't think I could have made more noise than these BEASTS are making upstairs if I tried. One of them dropped his stick, clattering down the bunk ladder as it fell, twice. I'd have killed myself after the first time so that completely blew my mind.

      I'm waiting until my phone gets to 70% (because naturally they hogged the two chargers per room upstairs) then I will walk around giving each of them a sharp poke in the ribs, turn and glare at them at the threshold, put my nose in the air and storm off.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 22

      Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de

      23 Nisan, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 39 °F

      296 miles done. 204 to go. 59%!

      Coming near the end of the Meseta and the farmland as far as you can see. I’m excited to get past León and enter the last 200 miles of the journey. Especially looking forward to having my second and last rest day in Leon to do laundry and relax my legs a bit.

      It was chilly today and I feel like I can’t get warm enough. Still, wearing sandals at the end of the daily walk feels amazing, so I added socks to my sandals. Not just socks, but toe socks. So yeah. Judge me. You’d have done the same. On the Camino, all sense of fashion or what is right or proper is out the window. I saw a couple at breakfast who were wearing “long johns,” but not the kind that you wear skiing. They were very thin and black, like thicker pantyhose, and they were wearing them over their white underwear, at breakfast. Pretty much entirely see-through, with his tighty-whities and her granny-panties all bunched up underneath the black hosiery. So, we all wear what we have, what may or may not be semi-clean (I really really need to find a laundry tomorrow), and we just roll with it.

      Joined a table of pilgrims tonight and traded lots of stories and reasons why we are on the Camino. The consensus was really “why not?” and “finding myself.” Same.

      León tomorrow and rest day there the next. Needed!
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 30

      12k to Reliegos

      17 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      Long walk all morning in a light rain, only heavy enough to put on rain coats a couple of times.

      We were pleasantly surprised to have a small patch of trees to walk through, on either side of a small stream.

      The local government was kind enough to post instructions on "how to poop in the woods"!

      Other than that it was the usual Meseta walk on long straight and flat next to a lightly travelled road.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 31

      To El Burgo Ranero

      11 Mayıs 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Great night in Sahagún where we stayed in a monastery albergue run by Marist brothers and attended a Pilgrim mass! I've been blessed! Shared meal with great variety and had heaps of leftovers for a chocka breakfast. This was the most moving and caring place we've stayed. We talked about our booking anxiety and raised it at the pilgrim coffee meet with brother John. And today we have dealt with it better - applying the philosophy of the day: fuck it! So instead of struggling to find lodgings in Villamoros de Mansilla we're walking there tomorrow and bussing to Leon to meet up with Nicky and Charlie and Co for a big night and Eurovision madness. Bring your best boa!
      Easy peasy walk to El Brgu - meant to stop for coffee at Calzada de Coto at Km4 but overshot and ended up at Km10.5 Bercianos del Real Camino. We just thought it was a long 4k - shows how fit we are now, despite blisters (Sal) and right leg tendonitis) Al.
      Into La Laguna albergue but hospitallero couldn't find booking eek! But she had a cancellation so we were in and everybody happy.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 25

      El Burgo Ranero

      8 Nisan, Ispanya ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

      The day stated well until I got to Sahagún when the predicted rain started.

      The sun came out during the last few hundred meters leading to El Burgo Ranero where I am spending the night in the municipal albergue, which also happens to be a donativo.

      Many buildings here of adobe (mud brick) construction are just falling apart from neglect.

      [Day 21, 27 km walked, 432 km from St Jean Pied-de-Port, 362 km to Santiago.]
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 31

      Camino Day 21: Sahagún to Burgo Ranero

      1 Eylül 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Total Distance: 18km
      Step Count: 30.1k
      Blisters to date: 2
      Tortillas to date: 19
      Injuries: shin splints

      Today, I walked with Tommaso as Lukas started super early to try and make his way to Leon where we’d meet again in 2 days.

      It was a very chill walk talking about love, faith and life. I love having conversations with people who think deeply and can appreciate and accept different perspectives on different topics. It was a lovely bonding time on the trail. I also got a tarot reading at our breakfast stop which was very interesting and entertaining 🃏

      Our destination was El Burgo Ranero where according to Jorge, we might experience the most beautiful sunset on the whole camino! The town was quite cute with not much happening but the Albergue we stayed at was so serene in ways we couldn’t describe! I journaled for hours and had lovely chats with the volunteers.

      In the evening, we went to find the bench we were meant to watch the sunset from but the weather wasn’t great so not much to be seen but you could see how on a good day, the spot had so much potential!

      I also met a lovely group of Spanish women who were really worried about my leg which wasn’t hurting anymore but was swelling inexplicably 🤷🏻‍♀️

      I was contemplating a 37km day to Leon the next day to go to a health centre and get my leg checked but the Camino always provides and had better plans for me! ✨
      Okumaya devam et

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