Spain
Foncebadón

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    • Day 30

      Day 27 Fonceboden to El Acebo

      October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      It didn't take long to reach the Cruz de Ferro (Cross of Iron). A famous stop where pilgrims leave a rock or other itoken of love and blessing commemorating their journey. I spent about 20 minutes looking for the stones we left last year but they were apparently buried under the thousands left since then. I had a special heart to leave that Randy and I had engraved with our names, the date and our city. I ended up wedging it into a crack of the pole holding the cross. Not far after that I passed through the village of Manjarin, population 1, the resident who operates the bare bones, uniquely adorned Mountain Albergue. The hike today was a steep up and down through the forest and high cattle pastures. Last night I had considered pushing through to Ponferrada today as I realized El Acebo wasn't as far as I thought and that weather was likely to prevent the spectacular views of last year. But then I woke up hearing the wind and rain and I thought better of it. I am so glad I did because it rained the majority of the hike and the wind was so strong it was blowing me off trail. The "luxury" of a hot shower and a private room were never so welcome!!!Read more

    • Day 31

      El Acebo

      October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      Today we hit a big milestone. We had breakfast and headed up to the highest point on the Camino, the Cruz de Ferro. It’s a spot where pilgrims have left a rock from their homeland in a huge pile for centuries. We both left our rock along with our wishes. It was very touching.

      We are in beautiful country now. The hills are rounded and very green. There was mist and fog most of the day. It rained a bit but not enough to need our punches. Tomorrow the chance of rain is 90%.

      We were concerned about this steep downhill section that has a lot of rocks and a bad reputation. We just took it slowly and carefully using our poles. I think the people who were concerned about that on the Internet have probably never hiked in Yosemite! It really wasn’t a problem at all. Tomorrow is more of the same downhill with rocks for the first five or 6 km. Then we have a flat walk into a city of 65,000 people called Ponferrada.pepeople.
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    • Day 25

      Foncebadon > Ponferrada

      October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Only 26K but some TREACHEROUS downhills so took like 7 hours 😂 Passed the stone drop-y place but couldn't sacrifice protection rock else certain death would ensue imminently. Also quite fancying stabby mediaeval shoesRead more

    • Day 10

      Out of Foncebadon and into the mountains

      April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

      The night in the renovated convent was absolutely lovely. I feel so blessed for this beautiful weather across beautiful country.

      Just 2 km from our convent is the “Cruz de fierro”- the iron cross. This is a place where pilgrims place a stone or other symbolic item as a way to lay down their burden. It may be a memorial for a loved one, a personal quest, or a release.

      When we started planning for the Camino, we knew we wanted to come here. We both picked out stones from home and carried them in our pockets. We left the Albergue at 6:15 with the full sky of stars ⭐️ greeting us. We pass the field of sleeping cows and a pond of frogs that had been so noisy the night before. We made it to the cross as the sun rose.

      I brought 2 stones. A small rose quartz serves as a symbol of letting go of my heart ever being smaller than it truly is. To let go of hiding myself or my deeper emotions, to open to the beautiful extremes of life. We great joy comes great sorrow, with deep love comes deep loss. My emotions are my superpowers and I’m willing to stand up for them.
      A small oval stone I had painted in gold 🌀 spirals. It symbolized to me opening up to was beyond my imagination. What is beyond perception and doubt to what is truly felt and known in the spirit.
      I was truly touched by the hundreds of other burdens laid down - stones, shoes, rosaries 📿, jewelry, toys, flags….

      As we walked onward to the sun touching the tops of the mountains, we talked about what the experience meant to us and what we welcome with that release. It’s the kind of conversation I’m so glad to have with my life partner!

      At the top of one of the highest passes, there was a tiny coffee cart with fresh hard boiled eggs, espresso and other things. By mostly a view and a fire! 🔥

      We are starting to feel the challenge of the walk more now. At over 51,000 steps (18. 1 miles) today, I go to bed with a very sore knee. And not the one that has been injured the last 8 months! The stress from walking down very rough terrain is working that joint line. Luckily there was a farmacia at our ending point where the pharmacist looked at my knee and gave me a knee brace and some CBD/Arnica cream.

      And poor paul has an impressive blister on his toe .

      We are both trying to keep ahead with the sunscreen, tho it’s ☀️ still getting us with sweaty clothes and heat rash.

      Regardless, we remain very positive and grateful for the amazing accommodations available, for the community of pilgrims, for the drinkable tap water, for a soft bed and a hot shower. And for our continued support of each other.
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    • Day 28

      Foncebadón to Ponferrada

      April 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 36 °F

      371 miles done. 129 to go.

      Some steep and very rocky trails to descend today into Ponferrada. 5.5 hours of being careful to not sprain an ankle with a wrong step is kind of exhausting! Gorgeous views again today. I’m at 75% of the way!

      I went to a highly rated Italian restaurant and ate my heart out. But I couldn’t decide between the risotto or the pizza… so I ordered both.

      The risotto with Gorgonzola cheese, sliced almonds, candied pear, emmental cheese, and crispy bacon?… heaven in a skillet.

      The pizza was chicken and pepperoni and bbq sauce on a super thin crust. It was delicious.

      But I was embarrassed that I only ate half of each. Because I really ordered two entrees that could have fed 4 people. So I asked for a to-go box. They packaged everything up perfectly and halfway through my walk home, I admitted to myself that 1) I have no refrigeration in my dorm-room size alburgue, 2) I have to be up in 8 hours to walk again, and 3) I’ve already pre-paid for breakfast tomorrow morning at my accommodation. So, I donated it to a trash bin.

      I really didn’t want to admit that I was ok being wasteful by ordering twice what I actually needed just to have some variety, and then I doubled down on this wastefulness by getting a to-go bag with all the packaging, just to then throw it away. Ugh.

      But now overstuffed and overwalked, I’m going to sleep. Night!
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    • Day 26–27

      El Ganso to El Acebo (Cruz de Ferro)

      May 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Today was a special day. We reached Cruz de Ferro and placed our special rocks from home at the base. The Iron Cross marks the highest part of the mountain pass and has become the place where pilgrims the world over leave behind a stone brought with them from home or elsewhere on the camino.

      We knew this day would be a tough 25k as we went up and over the highest peak on our Camino, but we did not realize just how steep and rocky the decent from Cruz de Ferro would be. Luckily we were rewarded with some amazing views!
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    • Day 23

      Cruz de Ferro

      May 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Uno de los sitios más emblemáticos del Camino de Santiago. Y ciertamente es muy especial. Aquí he dejado la piedra que cogí en San Juan de Pie de Puerto y he llevado en mi mochila hasta hoy. Mucha gente dejando desde lágrimas hasta cenizas de seres queridos. Muy emotivo.Read more

    • Day 25

      Day 25: Astorga a Foncebadòn

      May 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      What a contrast my morning and my evening today. I write this from the floor of a chapel in the mountains as I lie on a mat.

      I left Astorga early in the morning at around 7.30. After an amazing night sleep, and a proper breakfast, I headed out late into the day after the sun had risen.

      I set off alone, in the knowledge that I will be walking into the mountains. Apprehensive as always about heading up into the skies, I walked at a brisk pace out of the city and soon found myself surrounded by wonderful nature. Icy forest greens, pines, lavender and yellow against the rich red clay earth, this would be one of the most beautiful days yet. I walk alone as always, and enjoy the feeling of strength and achievement that comes with walking any distance, and soon I am in the mountains.

      The day is peaceful, I run into Kolja at the first stop and we have a coffee, I also meet JP, and Melina and then I head off alone. I also run into JIM. I thought he had left at Leon, but he has decided to continue on. I am happy to see him.

      When I reach my intended destination it is 12, and I am still feeling good. I also feel trusting and happy, and I feel like I could continue. I also know that there are 5km to the next town, and I have only done about 20km today. I’m in a beautiful mountain town called Rabanal del Camino. The terrain has changed completely, now there are stone houses and streets and the landscape is dark green. It is also very cold, the coldest day so far, at only 5 degrees. I decide to continue on, and surrender myself to fate. I walk the next 5km straight up, and even start to feel a bit faint. I reach the beautiful mountain town of Foncebadon, and check the first hostel. Completo, she says. The next the same. I walk up to the parochial albergue and notice a queue of pilgrims. I am already behind a queue of bags too. Does it open soon? No they say, 2.30. Have you tried everything else in town? Yes!

      So I’m in the queue. At this point I am so cold that I take my sleeping bag out of my backpack and wrap it around myself, freezing rain falls. despite this, the pilgrims are happy. I am too? I know that I might not get a bed, and tomorrow is the Cruz de Ferro - An iconic point in the trip so far, this is the last stop on the way.

      Eventually, a super thin Italian sits next to me - his name is Simone. He, I and the rest of the queue are chatting. Finally the hospitalero shows up and tells us there are 18 beds and 8 on the floor. I get a bed, but I am the last. Behind me is a father and daughter, so I give them my bed so they can stay together. I am lucky to have space at all! I am on the floor currently, in a chapel on a mountain. Lucky I met Simone and he is an archaeologist, so I hear stories of Spanish history and architecture.

      The night ends with me next to snoring Jim in a freezing room, perhaps tomorrow the Cruz de Ferro will take on a whole new meaning.

      Wish me luck!
      Read more

    • Day 30

      Stage 27: Astorga-Foncebadón

      October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Another umpteen kms, probably about 26/16 some miles, the last 6 km/3.6 miles of which were up the side of a mountain, 9 hours, 46°-68°
      The idea being to go a little further today to make tomorrow's summiting of the highest point on the Camino easier. Tomorrow I'll get to the Cruz de Ferro, the highest elevation on the Camino. The elevation gain is spread out longer and starting from higher elevation to begin with, so not as tough as the Pyrenees but significant none the less. Aside from Santiago, the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) may be the spiritual high point of the Camino, the place where centuries of pilgrims have left a stone or other memento representing a burden relinquished, a thanksgiving or prayer request. I have carried a little pouch of items to be laid there tomorrow, feel like I need to prepare. But first, shower, laundry and FOOD.Read more

    • Day 28

      Cruz de Ferro

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      People carry stones from home and leave them here as a way of relieving themselves of a particular burden. They also leave mementoes of loved ones.
      I already left my stone for Mum at the Virgin Mary statue in the PyreneesRead more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Foncebadón, Foncebadon, 24722

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