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Hontanas

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Путешествующие в этом месте
    • День 20

      Hontanas

      24 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Almost 12 miles today.
      You can really tell the sun is rising later these days. We started off in the dark today, and because of the clouds it took a long time to get light. We are now in the meseta, which I was told was very flat. It wasn't that flat today and not tomorrow either. We reached our destination at about 2:00. I was very glad to get here. It had been raining for an hour and I didn't have my rain jacket. So cold! I had a nice long, hot shower and hot chocolate. Then I took a nap. Only 2 more hours until dinner!
      The last 2 pics are where we are staying tonight. It's nice. Even has a spa/pool on the bottom floor. I wish I had my swimsuit.
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    • День 18

      Day 18: Hontanas

      27 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      It was fun to mix things up today with our rental ebikes. We zipped across the 32 kilometers in little more than two hours, with plenty of charge left on the bikes’ batteries.

      Allan joked that we were passing pilgrims like picket fence posts!

      The route was mostly flat, but there was one sneaky, roller coaster style descent that had us riding our brakes for quite some time.

      We stopped along the way several times to chat with pilgrims we’ve met along the way. Since we are leapfrogging ahead quite a bit with the bikes, we may not see them again.

      Then, we shared our lunch table in Hontanas with a German pilgrim we’d seen along the Camino several times but whom we hadn’t had a chance to talk in depth with.

      Given our experience today, we are optimistic about the batteries lasting for tomorrow’s 82 1/2 kilometer ride to Moratinos.

      As we enjoyed our day here, we warily monitored news about Hurricane Ian’s path toward Florida. We are concerned for friends and family in the state, as well as for our property in Saint Augustine and Green Cove Springs. May all be well…
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    • День 16

      Day 13 - The Meseta

      28 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      "I slow down when hiking. The rhythm of nature is more leisurely. The sun comes up, it moves across the sky, and you begin to synchronize to that rhythm." - John Mackey.

      Day 13 - Rabé de las Calzadas to Castellanos de Castro - 16.8 km

      I left today just as the sun was ready to peak over the horizon - 8:03 am. The sky was tinged with yellows, oranges and pinks and it was just beautiful - as most mornings here have been. I had been able to get a hot cup of tea before leaving which was a good thing as it was very cool and windy out.

      I soon caught up to an American couple (there are SO many Americans on the trail!!) and walked with them for an enjoyable 8km. It really does help to pass the time, when you have others to chat to. After a brief stop for some snacks and the “bano”, we were on the way again. Other trail friends of theirs were now walking with us, and I was struggling to keep up. After 10 mins or so, I bid them a Buen Camino and said I was going to have to step back as I could not keep their pace and breathe at the same time! I walked the remaining 7 km in solitary, taking in the beauty of the area.

      The Meseta is the area of north central Spain known for its wide open landscapes and big skies - kinda’ like Saskatchewan. A lot of people skip or avoid walking the Meseta as it is over 200km long (from just outside of Burgos, to Astorga). There are many long stretches with little shade and / or water. It is blistering hot in summer and freezing cold in winter. It’s also windy as all heck. Unfortunately to this point, someone forgot to tell the area it is supposed to be flat. Have I mentioned I hate hills? I do….but am getting stronger and more conditioned to them. Just In time for the Meseta hahaha.

      Twice today, the wind died down and I thought I’d gone deaf! The wind literally battered my ears for over 4 hours today. Must remember to wear a buff tomorrow! When I started this morning I had a t-shirt and fleece, gloves and a hat. All but the t-shirt came off within 30 mins. My arms then froze due to the wind. I got quite chilled at one point and almost put the fleece back on. But the sun was bright and the day was getting warmer so I didn’t bother.

      Due to my time constraints and the distances I am managing (so much less than planned!) I will be skipping a chunk, as mentioned previously. The issue with this is I miss an important Camino icon - Cruz de Ferro or, the iron cross. This is where people typically leave the burdens (of life) they have been carrying. You symbolically leave a stone (usually brought from home) to signify the release. Although I left my talisman at home, I did pick up a heart shaped stone on one of my first days walking. Today, I came across a St James cross along the way. I took a photo and kept on walking. Something made me turn back - uphill, so you know it was compelling! At the base were piles of rocks and stones. Most had been left by pilgrims. Some with names, some with messages, some photos etc. It was a mini Cruz de Ferro. I knew this was my chance. I dug that rock out of my bag and used my Burt’s Bees tinted lip moisturizer to outline the heart and colour the stone a shade of red. I placed the stone down gently while saying aloud what it meant to me and what burden I was leaving in this beautiful place of rolling hills and wheat fields. I wept and wept. Two pilgrims walked by offering Buen Caminos and it was all I could do to choke out a reply, while trying to hide my tears. I can’t say I walked away totally unburdened. But, my heart was a little lighter and my head a little clearer.

      I walked in to my Albergue just before Castellanos de Castro. What a welcome oasis!!! I arrived to relaxation music playing and sat down for a glass of wine. A perfect welcome after the emotionally draining morning! I finally got myself checked in and sat planning my route for the next few days, and enjoying the chill vibe. This is a new (1yr old) Albergue and the owner does all her own cooking and baking. The pilgrim meal was a seafood macaroni (don’t knock it til you have tried it!), salmon fillet and salad with orange mousse for dessert. Incredible!! As we finished our meal, we were also treated to an amazing sunset!!

      So very grateful for this day and this fabulous Albergue.
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    • День 14

      Etappe 13: Burgos nach Castellanos

      1 октября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Heute startete ich meinen Step gegen 7.45 Uhr, nach einer ruhigen Nacht.
      31 Kilometer stehen heute auf dem Plan.
      Zuerst führte mich der Weg, quer durch Burgos.
      Durch Parks und Wohngebiete..
      Nach etwa einer Stunde, erreichte ich das lang ersehnte Ende der Stadt und ich kam aufs Land.
      Hier gings über klassischen Schotter weiter Richtung Meseta..
      In der Meseta angekommen, führte mich der Camino zuerst über leicht hügeliges Gelände,
      Nach ein paar Kilometer, wurde das Gelände flacher und er führte mich, auf einem gefühlt unendlichen Weg immer tiefer in die Meseta hinein. Links und rechts sah ich riesige Getriebefelder, Windmühlen und einzelne Bäume.
      Das Klima veränderte sich zunehmend, es wurde wärmer und staubiger.
      Nach 30 Kilometer kam ich in meiner Albergue an.
      Heute hatte ich nämlich einen etwas außergewöhnlichen Schlafplatz, mitten in der Meseta, mit allem Komfort, den man so braucht.
      Morgen geht's weiter nach Boadilla del Camino.
      Fazit des Tages: die Etappen in der Meseta werden vermutlich,die härtesten auf dem Camino🤔
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    • День 24

      Hontanas to Castrojeriz

      11 октября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      We walked a short way to the village of Hontonas. We stopped to look into their small church, very nice.

      Continued walking, another 10k to Castrojeriz, along a beautiful valley cut through the Meseta plateau. We passed through the ruins of the Convent of San Anton. Literally through, the paved road runs right through the preserved archway!

      Finally walking the final kilometers across the valley to the hillside town of Castrojeriz, our destination for today. The hilltop has castles ruins, but we have to plans to attempt the steep walk up!

      Checked in to Hostel El Manzana for tonight!
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    • День 31

      La Meseta

      12 октября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      After the Pyrenees, the Meseta is the most talked about part of the Camino Frances, potentially because people hate it the most although some love it too. I have made it to La Meseta.

      Meseta translates as Plateau although people talk about it as the plains. People also talk about it as though it's flat but today was far from flat and the ups and downs were no less torturous than before.

      I met a Catholic priest from the US last night who was walking with his wife. We had a discussion about all the river rock on the path and my suggestion that it had something to do with a Spanish sense of humour and Catholic suffering requirements for a pilgrim. Luckily he agreed with my assessment.

      I digress, again. So far I think the Meseta is a table plateau (given my altitude is around 900m) which has been eroded in plenty of places to create the valleys and unlike the previous Camino sections, the towns are hidden in the valleys near the water sources.

      In summer the Meseta is hot, so hot pilgrims die here and this year many, many pilgrims had to skip this part of the Camino due to Europe's heat waves. Today we had a cool morning breeze but this afternoon was hot enough for me. This is wheat country and now that harvest is done the plateau is an endless grey and straw colour. The soil is grey and where they have started plowing, full of rocks. In most part it's still the ends of the cut wheat.

      The Meseta will be my home for more than two hundred kilometres and take me through Leon and out the other side. As mentioned before, this is the most often skipped part of the journey. Today I would happily have jumped on a train to Leon so time will tell.

      Two ladies staying in tonight's Albergue are both from Arizona. The albergue is in the middle of nowhere on the plateau. It reminds them of the deserts at home. It's a fairly empty Albergue tonight and I find it interesting that an Aussie and some gals from Arizona feel at home in the middle of nowhere. Many people on this planet do not.

      I think I've finally found Spanish flies. Bugger. Though it does make me feel like home, or at least the years of my life I spent on the mainland. Another reason to love Tassie, so few flies.
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    • День 27

      Castrojenez (19.9km / 323.3km)

      9 мая 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Today was an absolutely perfect walking day. It was cool and cloudy and flat! Just the odd little hill here and there. We walked between the hills for a change. There were fields and fields of poppies and other wild flowers and the usual green crops. We really are lucky with the cool weather as there was no shade from trees at all! We walked with a young American, John we met at church the previous day who had just quit his lawyer job and was walking the Camino before opening an independent book store and an older American lady that we met at dinner the night before. A very chatty morning!

      We have accepted it but the pressure on accommodation means we need to book ahead and therefore we can’t be spontaneous to stop at a place that grabs us. Our coffee stop this morning, Hontanas, certainly would have been such a place. The people were sooo friendly and welcoming and they had natural healing pools.
      We passed through (literally) the old ruins of San Anton - a hospital built to care for the early pilgrims. They have built a road right through the ruins.
      We had a brief rain shower just before we arrived. At dinner we caught up with a couple we last saw in Pamplona about 2 weeks ago which was a nice surprise.
      Castro (Caste) Jeniz is an imposing town with a castle on the top of the hill and 3 large churches as well as a convent of the Poor Clares
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    • Day 21 -Rabe de Calzadas to Hontanas 18k

      19 сентября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      I was off at 6:50am this morning. Still dark with headlamp on. It was dark until about 7:30 when I could turn the light off. It was a cool experience to walk at that time. It was a foggy morning so it gave an even more eerie sense. Funny thing is, I feel completely safe on the camino, alone in the dark.

      The fog in the headlamp was kind of like having the static of the TV right in front of your face. At times it felt like I was in a movie where they were transporting me to a different time with the movement of the fog quickly around me. It is very hard to describe, but I did capture some of it on video.

      I felt great today during the walk. The plan was to go at least 18km, but was probably going to go around 27 if I could. I have a reservation in Boadilla Del Camino tomorrow which is a total of 47kms away. So I needed to do this in 2 days. I figured if I felt good, I would just keep going. Well, I did feel good, but I didn’t keep going as I came upon an albergue that I just loved. It is about 1.5km before Hontanas, so out in the middle of nowhere, only looking out into the fields. It was so peaceful and has a restaurant with great food. I stopped for lunch, but decided to stay.

      So, of course, this means that I have a 30km day for tomorrow ... YIKES! The place tomorrow is special though and worth the distance. 14 years ago I stopped there just for lunch. I wasn’t with Jörg as we were walking separately. I met the owner and when I told him I was from London Ontario, he said he had a friend in London and asked if I would take a postcard home with me. I did just that, I carried the postcard the rest of the camino and hand delivered it to his friend in London.

      When I made the reservation, I sent him the picture of him and me holding the post card. I reminded him that I delivered the card for him and he replied “Amazing, you made sooo special now”

      I warned him I might not arrive until late afternoon, so the good thing is I don’t have to worry about the bed, he knows I will be late. So I can take all the time I need. Today I forced myself to take a break every 5km and it really paid off. When I hit 18km, I still had no pains, could definitely go further so I am feeling pretty confident about tomorrow.

      It is pretty clear I am in the Meseta now. I must say, I really do like it. I just love the big sky, it is similar to the skies of Saskatchewan or southern Alberta. The app I use, called Wise Pilgrim, has the camino divided into three sections; Body, Mind, Spirit. The first part was the Body. It was the time you are building up the strength in your body. I just finished that section and have now entered the “Mind” section and it is pretty clear why. When all you see is endless fields and sky where the landscape rarely changes, there is nothing to grab your attention, so your thoughts begin to turn inward.

      I was thinking of Jörg today (like I do everyday), but today I was really focused on how his life was cut way too short. He had so much more to give, and he really loved to give! I know we were together 14 years, but it really feels like we were just getting started.

      I was also thinking about how we were different types of travellers but we complimented each other. I think what he loved most about travelling was meeting people and getting to know them and what I love about travelling is seeing the sights, the nature, the views and all the feelings those arouse. He absolutely loved the camino for the people. He would get so excited when he would run into someone he had already met along the way. I am the opposite. I am doing most of my walking alone and keeping to myself most of the time. Well, my extrovert personality won’t allow me to be completely alone, it is just my nature to try and talk to people, but I am not doing it so much now. I really look forward to my alone time.

      Ok, I have been rambling on enough today. That is what happens when you finish your walking day at noon in the middle of nowhere.

      TTYL
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    • День 21

      Rabe de las Calzadas to Hontanas 18km 5.

      25 сентября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Today we entered the part of the Camino called The Meseta. It is a long flat area of farmland, Corn, wheat and sunflower fields for as far as the eye can see. There are few shadows and the sun was scorching hot 🥵. This is the type of terrain that we have imagined the Camino would be like before we began. We find this section so beautiful and serene. They say the first part of the Camino is the physical challenge…and it surely was. The Meseta is now the mental challenge. We found the crowds have thinned as many people choose to skip this part, But for those that continue it is a time for reflection and soul searching. We think we are up for the mental challenge of The Meseta, as long as our bodies are.
      Ann is still walking in sandals, thank goodness for the flat terrain.
      We are staying in a modern albergue (although still in a very old building) that has a spa attached. Our fanciest one yet, but we still have to share a large room with about 25 others. At least the beds are comfortable and well spaced out.
      Had a lovely dinner tonight with people from Columbia and Germany.
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    • День 16

      Day 16 - Hontanas (the Meseta)

      23 сентября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      Our easiest ride so far - despite stopping at every village for a coffee we still arrived too early for lunch. Would have been nice to cover more distance, but there are limited accommodation options on this part of the route and we can't get our bags transferred more than 60km.
      On the plus side, we're staying in Hontanas, a lovely little village that seems to be prospering due to all of the Camino traffic.
      Rather than having a relaxing afternoon enjoying the sun, we ('I') decided a 'little' walk would be nice. We saw an advert for a 'music event' in the next village, so decided to go and have a look. Two hours later, the walk had turned into a 5 mile hike and village was completely deserted. However, it did give us a taste of 'walking' the Camino, and got us up to a respectable number of miles.
      29kms cycled today, 292m up, 273m down; + 8kms walked, 99m up.
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