Spain
Hontanas

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    • Day 24

      Hontanas to Castrojeriz

      October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      We walked a short way to the village of Hontonas. We stopped to look into their small church, very nice.

      Continued walking, another 10k to Castrojeriz, along a beautiful valley cut through the Meseta plateau. We passed through the ruins of the Convent of San Anton. Literally through, the paved road runs right through the preserved archway!

      Finally walking the final kilometers across the valley to the hillside town of Castrojeriz, our destination for today. The hilltop has castles ruins, but we have to plans to attempt the steep walk up!

      Checked in to Hostel El Manzana for tonight!
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    • Day 31

      La Meseta

      October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      After the Pyrenees, the Meseta is the most talked about part of the Camino Frances, potentially because people hate it the most although some love it too. I have made it to La Meseta.

      Meseta translates as Plateau although people talk about it as the plains. People also talk about it as though it's flat but today was far from flat and the ups and downs were no less torturous than before.

      I met a Catholic priest from the US last night who was walking with his wife. We had a discussion about all the river rock on the path and my suggestion that it had something to do with a Spanish sense of humour and Catholic suffering requirements for a pilgrim. Luckily he agreed with my assessment.

      I digress, again. So far I think the Meseta is a table plateau (given my altitude is around 900m) which has been eroded in plenty of places to create the valleys and unlike the previous Camino sections, the towns are hidden in the valleys near the water sources.

      In summer the Meseta is hot, so hot pilgrims die here and this year many, many pilgrims had to skip this part of the Camino due to Europe's heat waves. Today we had a cool morning breeze but this afternoon was hot enough for me. This is wheat country and now that harvest is done the plateau is an endless grey and straw colour. The soil is grey and where they have started plowing, full of rocks. In most part it's still the ends of the cut wheat.

      The Meseta will be my home for more than two hundred kilometres and take me through Leon and out the other side. As mentioned before, this is the most often skipped part of the journey. Today I would happily have jumped on a train to Leon so time will tell.

      Two ladies staying in tonight's Albergue are both from Arizona. The albergue is in the middle of nowhere on the plateau. It reminds them of the deserts at home. It's a fairly empty Albergue tonight and I find it interesting that an Aussie and some gals from Arizona feel at home in the middle of nowhere. Many people on this planet do not.

      I think I've finally found Spanish flies. Bugger. Though it does make me feel like home, or at least the years of my life I spent on the mainland. Another reason to love Tassie, so few flies.
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    • Day 27

      Castrojenez (19.9km / 323.3km)

      May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Today was an absolutely perfect walking day. It was cool and cloudy and flat! Just the odd little hill here and there. We walked between the hills for a change. There were fields and fields of poppies and other wild flowers and the usual green crops. We really are lucky with the cool weather as there was no shade from trees at all! We walked with a young American, John we met at church the previous day who had just quit his lawyer job and was walking the Camino before opening an independent book store and an older American lady that we met at dinner the night before. A very chatty morning!

      We have accepted it but the pressure on accommodation means we need to book ahead and therefore we can’t be spontaneous to stop at a place that grabs us. Our coffee stop this morning, Hontanas, certainly would have been such a place. The people were sooo friendly and welcoming and they had natural healing pools.
      We passed through (literally) the old ruins of San Anton - a hospital built to care for the early pilgrims. They have built a road right through the ruins.
      We had a brief rain shower just before we arrived. At dinner we caught up with a couple we last saw in Pamplona about 2 weeks ago which was a nice surprise.
      Castro (Caste) Jeniz is an imposing town with a castle on the top of the hill and 3 large churches as well as a convent of the Poor Clares
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    • Day 19

      Hornilla to Castro Jeriz

      September 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      Left Hornilla for Castro Jeriz at 7:30 AM. Approximately 25 km. Started off as a light rain that got harder about an hour into the hike. Rained the rest of the time. Beautiful countryside. Two very nice town passing through. No concerns healthwise. Another good day. Albergue is very nice.Read more

    • Day 26

      Castrojeriz

      September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Piękne miasteczko, długie, wijące się generalnie pod górę i przepełnione średniowieczem, wąskie uliczki, południowa pustka, koty wygrzewające się w okiennicach, nie prowadzących do nikąd oprócz niebieskiego nieba i pustki po nie istniejących domach. Dotarliśmy do albergue Rosalia, spaliśmy tu w zeszłym roku i bardzo nam się podobała. Na rogu budynku w fasadzie jest wykuty sznur, oznaka, że kiedyś zatrzymali się tutaj członkowie królewskiej rodziny. Wiem, że się powtarzam, ale to robi wrażenie, że śpimy w miejscu, w którym kiedyś przebywali władcy Hiszpanii....
      Około 4 km przed naszym docelowym miejscem przechodzi się przez ruiny kościoła, który był zbudowany w kształcie litery T. Pozostały jedynie ruiny, ale robią niesamowite wrażenie, jeśli się pozwoli rozwinąć fantazji można zobaczyć cudne obrazy. Nie ukrywam, że jest to jedno z moich ulubionych miejsc. Do tego należy dodać, że był on pod wezwaniem Sw. Antoniego Pustelnika. Specjalizował się on dość skutecznie w leczeniu choroby zwanej gorączka Antoniego a polegała ona na halucynacjach, szale, bólach nóg i odpadaniu części ciała. Powodował ja sporysz powszechnie obecny na tamtejszych nie oczyszczonych zbożach. Leczenie było w miarę skuteczne i polegało na długim chodzeniu i piciu dużych ilość czerwonego wina. Choroba ta miała generalnie dwie formy, jedna właśnie gorączka świętego Antoniego z bólem kończyn i odpadającymi kończynami i druga polegająca na szale, halucynacjach i padaczce jak słusznie Mariuszek zauważył tańcem Sw. Vita. Sw. Vit jest 7 albo 12 letnim chłopcem męczennikiem który został ugotowany w oleju.
      Wiem, że to powtórka, ale bardzo interesująca i warta utrwalenia.
      W Castrojeriz zobaczyliśmy kościoł, który w zeszłym roku był zamknięty. Teraz do funkcjonującego kościół dołączyła się ekspozycja obrazów i rzeźb z XV- XVI wieku.
      Zadziwiają mnie czasami kombinacje jak są łączone święte postacie, np. bardzo rzadko spotykana figura Świętej Anny, Jej córki Maryi i wnuka Jezusa, czyli piękny zestaw 3 pokoleń razem.
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    • Day 19

      Rain In Spain Falls Mainly in the Plains

      September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Burgos to Hontanas
      Day 16 - 31 Km

      As we found out today, especially in the Meseta!!
      We started out around 8am with a cloudy day. Lovely walk out of Burgos by the river. We encountered rain about 5km into our day but only a little. Again we were walking through fields of sunflowers and beautiful rolling hills.
      On the way out of the first little village called Rabes de las Calzades we encountered a beautiful little church. Here we were amazed by the lovely nuns who gave us, individually, a very special pilgrims blessing, along with a lovely pendant, which we will treasure. 💕 We were very overwhelmed by the dedication of these beautiful people ( and we both had misty eyes when we left. 🥺)
      Our next stop was at a pub around 10km away our destination for the night. It was a welcome relief from the rain so we stopped for a pilgrim meal which included a 🍷 . The rain persisted until about 2pm but by then we were cold and wet. The village we are staying at tonight was a very welcome sight after a 31km day. We had the best host ever, who gave us a wonderful night, gorgeous food and a fantastic atmosphere! Full bellies and ready for sleep 😴
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    • Day 16

      Day 13- Burgos to Hontanas

      September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      We traveled from Burgos to Hontanas today…our longest day so far at 31 kms or 19.25 miles. We have entered the Meseta which is a long and relatively flat plateau.

      The Meseta is about 180 km long and is reported to be dull and boring . As you will see from the pictures it is a rolling hill landscape of basically grain fields so far. I can see why people may say it is boring but there are still portions that create great contrasts and good pictures!

      We left early this morning and it was a bit chilly so we started in long pants and jacketed . By early afternoon the sun warmed us up but the winds kept us from over heating.

      We met several new friends today and also some that we haven’t seen in quite awhile. In fact 1 gentlemen we haven’t seen since day 2 appeared today and it was great to catch up and hear about his journey!

      On the physical front, not so good. My knee held up for the first 7 miles but after that it became a bit of an issue. As it was clear that the weight of a pack was aggravating things, at 15 kms CJ switched packs with me and as his is lighter that did help. We also began a more regimented system of rest periods . So I was able to make it the day 19 miles but there were periods where that was in jeopardy.

      Our new strategy is two fold. First , there is a service that will transfer your pack to your next location so that you only need to travel with what you need for that day so I will send my pack forward and will carry very little. If that helps the knee than we are good to go.

      If that doesn’t work then I will leave the trail and go forward to the next large city and rest the knee while CJ continues to walk the Camino and we will connect when he reaches that city. We will than try to continue together from there. If that doesn’t work then I may be faced with the decision to suspend my Camino and travel home.

      I will tell you that these plans and decisions are excruciatingly hard to work thru. Despite the knee , my experience has been and continues to be one of the most profound experiences in my life. To not walk into Santiago with CJ at my side is just to hard for me to accept so will do everything in my power to not have to leave the Camino without having finished. We have a long way to go and I am hopeful that I can modify my routine to allow my knee to propel me to the finish line! Some pain is ok, long term damage I will avoid…in the end I am hopeful that the Camino will provide!
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    • Day 21 -Rabe de Calzadas to Hontanas 18k

      September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      I was off at 6:50am this morning. Still dark with headlamp on. It was dark until about 7:30 when I could turn the light off. It was a cool experience to walk at that time. It was a foggy morning so it gave an even more eerie sense. Funny thing is, I feel completely safe on the camino, alone in the dark.

      The fog in the headlamp was kind of like having the static of the TV right in front of your face. At times it felt like I was in a movie where they were transporting me to a different time with the movement of the fog quickly around me. It is very hard to describe, but I did capture some of it on video.

      I felt great today during the walk. The plan was to go at least 18km, but was probably going to go around 27 if I could. I have a reservation in Boadilla Del Camino tomorrow which is a total of 47kms away. So I needed to do this in 2 days. I figured if I felt good, I would just keep going. Well, I did feel good, but I didn’t keep going as I came upon an albergue that I just loved. It is about 1.5km before Hontanas, so out in the middle of nowhere, only looking out into the fields. It was so peaceful and has a restaurant with great food. I stopped for lunch, but decided to stay.

      So, of course, this means that I have a 30km day for tomorrow ... YIKES! The place tomorrow is special though and worth the distance. 14 years ago I stopped there just for lunch. I wasn’t with Jörg as we were walking separately. I met the owner and when I told him I was from London Ontario, he said he had a friend in London and asked if I would take a postcard home with me. I did just that, I carried the postcard the rest of the camino and hand delivered it to his friend in London.

      When I made the reservation, I sent him the picture of him and me holding the post card. I reminded him that I delivered the card for him and he replied “Amazing, you made sooo special now”

      I warned him I might not arrive until late afternoon, so the good thing is I don’t have to worry about the bed, he knows I will be late. So I can take all the time I need. Today I forced myself to take a break every 5km and it really paid off. When I hit 18km, I still had no pains, could definitely go further so I am feeling pretty confident about tomorrow.

      It is pretty clear I am in the Meseta now. I must say, I really do like it. I just love the big sky, it is similar to the skies of Saskatchewan or southern Alberta. The app I use, called Wise Pilgrim, has the camino divided into three sections; Body, Mind, Spirit. The first part was the Body. It was the time you are building up the strength in your body. I just finished that section and have now entered the “Mind” section and it is pretty clear why. When all you see is endless fields and sky where the landscape rarely changes, there is nothing to grab your attention, so your thoughts begin to turn inward.

      I was thinking of Jörg today (like I do everyday), but today I was really focused on how his life was cut way too short. He had so much more to give, and he really loved to give! I know we were together 14 years, but it really feels like we were just getting started.

      I was also thinking about how we were different types of travellers but we complimented each other. I think what he loved most about travelling was meeting people and getting to know them and what I love about travelling is seeing the sights, the nature, the views and all the feelings those arouse. He absolutely loved the camino for the people. He would get so excited when he would run into someone he had already met along the way. I am the opposite. I am doing most of my walking alone and keeping to myself most of the time. Well, my extrovert personality won’t allow me to be completely alone, it is just my nature to try and talk to people, but I am not doing it so much now. I really look forward to my alone time.

      Ok, I have been rambling on enough today. That is what happens when you finish your walking day at noon in the middle of nowhere.

      TTYL
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    • Day 21

      Rabe de las Calzadas to Hontanas 18km 5.

      September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Today we entered the part of the Camino called The Meseta. It is a long flat area of farmland, Corn, wheat and sunflower fields for as far as the eye can see. There are few shadows and the sun was scorching hot 🥵. This is the type of terrain that we have imagined the Camino would be like before we began. We find this section so beautiful and serene. They say the first part of the Camino is the physical challenge…and it surely was. The Meseta is now the mental challenge. We found the crowds have thinned as many people choose to skip this part, But for those that continue it is a time for reflection and soul searching. We think we are up for the mental challenge of The Meseta, as long as our bodies are.
      Ann is still walking in sandals, thank goodness for the flat terrain.
      We are staying in a modern albergue (although still in a very old building) that has a spa attached. Our fanciest one yet, but we still have to share a large room with about 25 others. At least the beds are comfortable and well spaced out.
      Had a lovely dinner tonight with people from Columbia and Germany.
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    • Day 18

      PRAISE BE

      April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      It might not look like much but Rusty was right, this was, by a country mile, the best meal I've had so far in Spain. And I've walked heaps of country miles now, so I know.

      I heard a lot, before I came, about menu dal dia (of the day, allegedly a thing introduced by Franco) and menu peregrino (pilgrim, usually a few euro cheaper and significantly less exciting) but somehow I've not been connecting with them.

      Today I did. I got lentils, a lamb stew, bread, water, 500ml of red wine, and an icecream for €15 and it was insanely delicious. Because I'm incapable of not being The Best Customer I also got a coffee on the house.

      I then went home and had a nap, and to be honest if you'd been awake since 3am and walked 35km and had four glasses of wine and REAL SHEETS for once, you'd have done the same.
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    Hontanas, 09227

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