Spanien
Logroño

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    • Dag 18

      Logorno

      25 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      I discovered a new range of mountains today - the sierra de cebollera. They lie between Burgos and Logorno- and became my high point of the ride so far. Fortunately Burgos sits at 850m so there wasn't much climbing up them. However I didn't fancy much uphill Camino gravel for the first 20 k - so opted for the adjacent n102. This was undoubtedly the busiest road I've been on so far, with a procession of big trucks. The hard shoulder is broad and usually clean but never big enough with the lorries' draft. So it wasn't a hard decision to find a detour which was beautiful and quiet- but long.
      Over the hill and I drop out of the Douro catchment and into the Ebro which drains into the Med. I was strangely excited by this as a mark of my progress. The watershed also delineated the border between Castile y Leon and Rioja- the smallest Spanish county. And a return to vines. A shadow on the horizon delineates the next barrier- the Pyrenees.
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    • Dag 17

      Ventosa (19.5km / 180.8km)

      29 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      That was the most active night outside our Albergue! It was Friday night and the locals came out to play Lograno! The wildlife could still be heard at 4am. Not sure if it was something special or a normal Friday night!
      We had a much slicker pack up process in the shared rooms and set off early and stopped at a local bakery on the way.
      The walk was through the city to exit (a lot more noise than we have been used to) and then past the dam and into vineyard territory. We only passed one town Navarrete where we had lunch and popped into yet another stunning church (Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asunción) for such small town. Then a beautiful approach to our destination, Ventosa. After the regular process of check-in (they couldn’t find our reservation for a private room but luckily had a bed in an 8 bed dorm, shower, wash clothes, dry and then head off to the town for a drink / dinner.
      We ate with an NZ couple at 1 of the 2 dining options in town then back for an early night. Beunos Noches!
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    • Dag 26

      Logroño

      17 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Net terug uit de stad.. tijd voor mijn verhaal van vandaag..Toen ik vanochtend naar buiten keek zag ik iig de zon al en toen ik m'n fiets aan het opzadelen was voelde het ook al goed, beetje fris door de wind dus toch goed gekleed van start. Voor dat ik de stad uitreed fietste ik voor pelgrims door een hele oude poort van weleer en idemdito over een brug, zie foto's. Het begin van de route was een pittige heuvelreeks van wel 5 km, laat ik het zo zeggen, toen ik het erop had zitten had ik een natte rug en de eerste kledingwissel was een feit. Eigenlijk was het gehele traject een afwisseling van afdalingen en behoorlijke klimpartijen. Af en toe een stop voor een appel, stokbrood met jam en wat te drinken en zo sleurde ik me door de dag. Ik zag onderweg olijven boomgaarden en klaprozen staan, een mooi gezicht. Ik was te vroeg in Estelle om me daar te goed te doen aan de wijnfontein dus door... de wind was echt nog een frisse en soms wist je niet om wat aan te doen. Ik ben een paar keer bij een afdaling gestopt om toch weer iets extra's aan te trekken want als je naar beneden suist is het echt koud. De laatste 10 km denk ik scheen de zon zo lekker dat ik alleen een t-shirt met korte mouwen aan had met natuurlijk het reflecterende vest en zo reed ook uiteindelijk Logroño binnen. Ik zag nog net hoe een wandelaar van de St Jacobsroute een ambulance werd ingedragen, ik weet natuurlijk niet wat er aan de hand was maar dat kan dus ook gebeuren. Op een gebouw aan het water zag ik 2 ooievaars op een nest, fotootje natuurlijk en even een stempel scoren en daarna op zoek naar een hotel. Het is allemaal gelukt, bij een bierhaus een biertje en er is hier ook een Spaanse variant van KFC. Het was ok allemaal. Nu op m'n kamer en mijn verhaal op papier zetten en dadelijk weer lekker slapen. Vandaag was het 70+ km en dat zal er morgen nog eentje worden. Na morgen heb ik de 1700 km gepasseerd...
      Ik wil jullie bedanken voor de positieve opbeurende berichten, ze doen me goed!!
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    • Dag 9

      Day 6- Los Arcos to Logrono

      11 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      Let’s name today “ what a difference a day makes” .Today was to be our short mileage day from Los Arcos to Viana a mere 11 miles away. Had a great night of sleep , had breakfast and we waited to leave till 8am as thunderstorms were in progress. We got on our way and as the rain had just stopped it was really wet and muddy. My shoes are no longer the color they were ! Then the rain came again. Not bad but showers on and off for a few hours,. So now I had to learn how to get the pack cover on and still have access to what I needed, hold the umbrella and 1 walking stick while stowing the other stick conveniently, deal with mud in shoes and wet feet. CJ of course had answers for everything and it is fun watching him do things as he is walking as it looks so easy….it’s not:). BTW I forgot to mention that I have now mastered how to get the water bottle out of its pocket in the backpack and back in while I am walking. For those of you that think this is easy…it’s not but after 5 days of trying , I have mastered that arm move… for the most part anyway. Then through a pack cover on and that just makes that move more complicated!!!
      So we are about 8 miles in and my knee is feeling good. On ibuprofen I was at 90% normal and when it wore off like 75% so we decide that 11 miles was too short so we huffed to Logrono for a total of 28 km or about 17.5 miles.
      This morning we had cloud cover most of the way so it was a delightful walk and we made really good time. We arrived in Vianna just as they were wrapping up some sort of bull running event. We got there to late to see it but as you will see in the pics everyone was wearing white and red clothes. Very boisterous crowd….
      So we have passed from the Navarro region to La rioja region. All day we were passing grapes orchards, almond trees, and olive trees. CJ had quite the fun getting the almonds off the trees and was very inventive as to how he cracked the shells. never seen a walking stick used like that before:) the almonds were soft and delicious ! Got to admit we did taste the grapes today… OMG a were they tasty!
      The views were spectacular again today even with the cloud cover. A few great rainbows as well.
      Our afternoon was in the sun again , warm but not as warm as the last 2 days. We stopped for a break at the 5km left mark and for fun thought we would face time with Susan. Pretty cool how you can stay connected 4000 miles away! We arrived at Logrono at around 4 , checked into our hotel and then we went for dinner. In Spain restaurants open at 8 pm… Logrono is known for its Tapa streets. Very cool vibe!
      We visited the main church in town which is huge and very old. It also has a Michelangelo painting on display!

      So pondering today was about watching CJ in his element. This is what he does and I have never had the opportunity to watch him do what he does and what he loves. Very cool to see how he navigates all the issues and how calm and “ at home” he is “on the trail” . As parent you always want to see your kids go forward in life and shape their path to something that fits them. There is no doubt that this is one of the things that bring him joy and happiness. So glad I am getting to experience this with him.
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    • Dag 117

      Das Pincho ist dem Basken sein Tapa

      24 november 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      Heute Morgen wollen wir um 10.00 Uhr in Barcelona aufbrechen und einmal - fast vom Mittelmeer an den Atlantik fahren…..fast, weil wir in Logroño einen Zwischenstopp einlegen. Ina und Uli haben uns das nahe gelegt, deswegen wollen wir da jetzt hin.
      Aber erst einmal müssen wir unser Auto noch aus der Tiefgarage herausfahren. Das klingt trivial, ist es aber nicht. DieTiefgarage ist nur bis 195 cm zugelassen, unser Bully ist 199 cm hoch.
      Irgendwo ist also in der Tiefgarage eine Stelle, durch die wir nicht passen. Beim Reinfahren ging alles gut- hauptsächlich durch Mickys geschultes Auge….
      Nachdem Patrick zu Beginn unseres Aufenthalts ziemlich viel Zeit in dieser Garage zugebracht hat, begrüßt uns der Garagenmeister heute mit Handschlag. Er freut sich, dass hier mal was passiert und - weil er ursprünglich aus Marocco kommt - freut er sich auch, dass wir französisch sprechen. Gemeinsam schaffen wir das Auto aus der Garage und sind froh, dass die Spanier diesmal nur untertrieben haben.
      Bald schon liegt Barcelona hinter uns und die Landschaft beginnt sich zu verändern. Erst wird sie karg, dann wieder grüner, schließlich kommen die Berge dazu.
      Und immer wieder zwischendrin schwarze Stiere in Übergröße auf den Bergspitzen und Feldern.
      Micky hat diese Kuriosität sofort gegoogelt und dabei festgestellt, dass es sich bei diesen Stieren um den „Toro de Osborne“ handelt, die Silhouette eines Stiers - ursprünglich als großes Werbeplakat für die Marke Osborne an spanischen Straßen geplant. Im Laufe der Zeit wurde aus dem Markenzeichen ein Symbol für Spanien. Nun stehen die 14 m hohen und 4 Tonnen schweren Stiere ganz ohne Werbebotschaft da; insgesamt 88 verteilt über ganz Spanien. Kleine Randnotitz: die Katalanen haben keine dieser Stiere, dafür aber den Caganer. Der Caganer ist eine Krippenfigur, die es nur im katalanischen Kulturkreis gibt und die heißt übersetzt so viel wie „Scheißer“. Tatsächlich handelt es sich um eine Figur, die mit heruntergelassenen Hosen seine Notdurft verrichtet. Aufgestellt etwas abseits vom Jesuskind, soll der Caganer Glück bringen….Das ist so schräg, dass Micky sofort einen kaufen musste…
      Nach etwas über 4 Stunden kommen wir in Logroño an und freuen uns auf die Pinchos.
      Da es zum Essen noch zu früh ist, schlendern wir erst einmal durch die Altstadt dieser immerhin 150.000-Einwohnerstadt. Und die Altstadt ist schön.
      Außerdem lernen wir, dass Logroño eine wirklich alte Altsstadt ist. Erstmals mit Stadtrechten ausgestattet wurde sie um 1095. 1099 wurde Logrono zu einer wichtigen Pilgerstation am Jakobsweg. Wir haben die Muschel gefunden und sind ungefähr 150 Meter gepilgert…voller Selbsterkenntnis und mit wirklich großem Hunger sind wir dann Richtung der vielen Pinchos Bars gelaufen, die es hier geben soll….
      Und da ist es wieder…das Problem mit Wunsch und Wirklichkeit. Fast alle Bars waren geschlossen….🙈 Die verwaisten Bartische in den leeren Gassen machen uns fast depressiv. Micky googelt gleich, wie das aussieht, wenn hier was los ist.
      Normalerweise zieht man hier von Bar zu Bar, isst überall ein Pincho - in der Regel die Spezialität des Hauses und trinkt dazu Wein - Farbe egal, aber unbedingt einheimisch.
      Wir lassen uns den Spaß nicht verderben, finden zwei offene Bars, die gegenüberliegen und legen los. Vier Pinchos hier und später noch drei gegenüber. Micky trinkt einen Weißwein aus vier verschiedenen Rebsorten mit wenig Säure und ist begeistert. Dieses Partyessenkonzept gefällt ihr.
      Übrigens: Pinchos sind Tapas, die einfach nur anders dargeboten werden: auf Brotscheiben durch einen Holzspieß befestigt.
      Unsere Pinchos lagen schon länger in der Vitrine, deswegen essen wir nicht auf und gehen auf dem Heimweg ins Hotel, noch am Empanadastandel vorbei….
      Patrick drängt zurück ins Hotel…..Warum?
      FC Bayern, Stern des Südens, Du wirst niemals untergehen, weil wir in guten wie in schlechten Zeiten zueinander stehen……
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    • Dag 16

      Brandje, oh gaat vanzelf uit

      17 maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Wanneer we bij de voetgangersbrug over de rivier gaanzien we rechs brand. Heel veel mensen kijken. Ik denk dan, goh ik hoor geen brandweer. Toch maar eens vragen. Moet de brandweer niet gebeld worden. Mwah zijn vast gebeld, of gaat vanzelf uit. Ja maar, zeg ik, als iedereen denk dat er gebeld is? Tsja, heb je een punt, Maar vervolgens niet doen. Bijzonder, blij dat de brede rivier de Ebro ligt tussen het vuur en de camping.Läs mer

    • Dag 7

      Estella to Los Arcos

      7 maj 2023, Spanien

      So in Los Arcos, the Camino begins to enter the wine region! Today's walk also marks the beginning of some of the challenges of the Camino.. feet.

      I found it difficult to focus today because my feet are beginning to take up quite a bit of brain space when every step is becoming painful. Thankfully this walk to Los Arcos was only 21 km, and when I arrived in Los Arcos, I enjoyed a beer with two American men with whom I had also met before in Puente la Reina, and they gave me their extra package of blister bandages! It is quite remarkable how when meeting people on the trail or in a bar at the end of the day how they already feel like they are your long lost friends. It is a Camino thing.

      However on this day at 5 pm, I also had a transfer to Viana, a nearby town, because when I booked there was no accommodation in Los Arcos, so at 5 pm my prearranged taxi arrived exactly on time in exactly the right place. The driver dropped me at a lovely hotel in Viana in the middle of medieval looking street ( and I am sorry I didn't take a picture), but unlike the taxi driver who was prompt and where he should have been, my luggage was not! In fact my luggage was lost! For the second time!

      While the hotel receptionist tracked my missing luggage, I consoled myself with a beer in the hotel patio/bar where I met a wonderful group of pilgrims from Germany and Australia. I borrowed a phone charger...so I could also try to track my luggage down, and be assured it was found in the next town...at the next hotel!

      The evening was very camino like...we had some beer, some wine and then we all went for a pilgrim supper down the way, where I enjoyed more wine, a salad, a piece of fish in a tomato sauce of sorts, and a bowl of strawberries and cream! We shared blister advice, the pros and cons of poles, and in Germany they also play pickleball with a net around the court! The Australian couple are travelling to Edmonton after the Camino because their son lives in Edmonton! A small world.
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    • Dag 10

      Logronos to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      10 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Another good nights sleep in Logronos and a few errands for the days ahead...some emergency food (tuna/juice/sausage), duck tape ( I can't believe I found some!), the bank, and a repack my suitcase and backpack and I was in a taxi heading to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

      I am already thankful I decided to take two days off the Camino because first, my feet are feeling much better, and my body and soul are also feeling a bit recovered from the reprieve of constant pain and suffering, and second because I was able to do some sightseeing in Santo Domingo that if I had continued to walk would have been unlikely up to the task.

      I arrived at my "hostel" called Hospederia Cistercienses a bit early so I rang the doorbell, and a nun answered the door. At first I thought I must be in the wrong place expecting to arrive at something that more closely resembled a hotel than a convent. But I am in the right place! I am so excited to be a convent that I opted for dinner tonight at the convent, despite the fact that dinner is not served until 8:45 pm.

      After settling into my room for a moment, I headed out to see the sights. There is a festival in this town today...lots of families with young children and teenagers, music in the square, but I am not sure what exactly is the celebration, but very nice to be part of such a vibrant community.

      The Cathedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada is the Camino's most famous surviving structure on the Camino. The 13th century cathedral also keeps the tomb on Santo Domingo and the living descendants of his miracle: a pair of fowl.

      Santo Domingo (1019 - 1109) choose to be a hermit over being a monk until a dream guided him to be a builder on the Camino and to be of service to the pilgrims on the Camino. Calzada means "roads" and Santo Domingo built many roads often from defunct old Roman roads and picked the spot where the city currently stands because it was such a hard place for pilgrims to pass and they needed support and protection.

      In the 11th century, a German family were travelling, and their son was falsely accused of stealing silver, and the boy was immediately hung, but Santo Domingo intervened and raised the boy up so as to not hang. The boy's parents pleaded with the judge who was about to begin a lovely dinner of roast fowl, and said he would set the boy free when the fowl at his table sat up and sang. The cock and the hen then just did that, and the boy was released! The descendants of this miracle cock and hen still reside in the The Cathedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

      I thoroughly enjoyed the tour of the church, seeing the miracle fowl, and then enjoyed a late lunch at a cafe before heading back to my modest room for a nap. I am truly adapting to the Spanish lifestyle I think!

      I just finished the pilgrim supper at the convent/hostal, and it was lovely and simple. A simple supper of eggs and fried potatoes, salad, chicken soup, and a kind of gelatine orange slice with cheese, and, of course, wine. I sat with people I had either met or seen on the trail. A father and daughter ( Bob and Kate), Martha ( also from British Columbia...and in fact on the same island...Gabri???...up the Sunshine Coast???) and Helen. Martha, Helen and I are all widowed/divorced, 60 to 70 years old...so many of us solo female travellers on the trail.

      Kate just bought new shoes today, and I am going to duck tape my blisters, so tomorrow will be a good day! I am feeling rested and eager to walk again the Camino.
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    • Dag 4

      La Laurel

      20 juli 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      This is a street in Logroño with dozens of food stands and street side food vending. And the best part is: everyone has at last one or two amazing vegan and vegetarian dishes and everything can be made gluten free, even the croquetas.Läs mer

    • Dag 16

      From Sansol to Logrona

      15 september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Day 12 and 13 in Logrono - The Albergue Palacio de Sansol turned out to be an amazing place. It was a 320 year old palace lovingly restored by the current owner, José Maria. His family had owned it in the early 1900s and then sold it. Jose bought it back for €30,000 in the 1990s and more recently spent a millón euros to restore it into a really charming albergue.
      The pilgrim dinner was cooked by Jose and consisted of a watery soup of what looked like celery to me - but turned out to be artichoke stems. I was among the 5% that didn’t particularly like it (it needed some masala). Luckily there was a twenty-something sitting next to me who was starving and had my share - so was not wasted. This guy is an aspiring actor from LA - so we took a selfie I can show off one day.
      The next morning, yesterday, I reluctantly left Sansol - I had such a nice room, I wanted to hang out - and made my way to Viana, the halfway point. That path, all 11 kms - was a complete knee buster - there were seriously steep climbs and descents all the way to Viana. At Viana I found I had caught up with all my dinner friends who had left at 6 am because there was a bull festival happening in town and they were hanging out waiting for it. I watched the fireworks and the procession with them but didn’t wait for the bull run because of the timing. I had another 10km to get to Logrono.
      Logrono is a vibrant town. One neighborhood is devoted to tapas/pinchos bars and people hang around there snacking and drinking. Nobody eats dinner till 9 or 10pm. The town has a beautiful cathedral, Santa María de Palacio, and I got a much coveted stamp in my pilgrim passport - the lady at the tourist office said that it was hard to get.
      Last night, as I sat outside with a glass of red Rioja, some of my Sansol friends showed up and we ended up having more wine along with some a amazing but weird tapas. Surprisingly the 2 glasses of wine didn’t give me a headache!
      I spent 2 nights in Logorno. And btw, I’ve completed a hundred miles walking the Camino….
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    Du kanske också känner till platsen med följande namn:

    Logroño, Logrono, Logronyo, لوغرونيو, Горад Лагронья, Логроньо, Λογρόνιο, Logronjo, Logroñu, لگرنیو, לוגרוניו, Լոգրոնյո, RJL, ログローニョ, 로그로뇨, Lucronium, Logronjas, लोग्रोन्यो, Logronh, لوگرونو, 26001, लोग्रोंयो, Логроњо, โลโกรโญ, Логроньйо, 洛格罗尼奥

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