Parque de Bonaval

It is often hard to describe your feelings when you complete something that you have been planning for years. Although it is always a relief when everything goes according to the script, there is also a slight feeling of disappointment that it is all over.

We awoke to yet another fine and clear morning, just like every previous morning on the Camino, apart from the very first day when we walked out of Roncesvalles. We have experienced so much together over the past two weeks, that the beginning of the walk already seems like a lifetime ago. We have laughed together, we have suffered together and we have certainly grown together as we worked our way across the north of Spain.

After a short transfer to Lavacolla, we began the very last leg of our walk. As seems to always be the case, the walk began with a steep climb through forests and farmlands, before settling down to a more gentle walk. Each step of the way brought us closer to our goal and we could understand how emotional it must be for those who have walked the entire 800 km from the Pyrenees. We even met an 87 year old guy from New Zealand, who had not only walked the entire way, but had carried his full pack the entire way. That takes a special kind of commitment that made our struggles seem pretty trivial by comparison.

All the while the signposts counted down the distances until we reached the "Mount of Joy".. It is as this location that you get your first glimpse of the Cathedral in the distance. Apparently the early pilgrims were so overcome with emotion that they shouted "My Joy, My Joy".

From that location we soon entered the outskirts of Santiago and the cathedral was hidden from view until we turned the final corner. The throng of fellow pilgrims were all heading in the one direction so it would be impossible to lose your way at this stage.

We passed a lone bagpipe player, went through a short tunnel and turned left to see the famous Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in front of us. We had arrived. Around us other pilgrims were hugging and laughing. Some lay on the ground, Others were busy taking selfies. We assembled ourselves to record the moment in a group photo. It seemed the appropriate thing to do.

There was something else we had to do. Just before we departed Australia, two of our team had to withdraw from the adventure due to ill health. At the start of our Camino we collected a couple of stones to symbolically include them in our walk. All along the way I have carried these stones in my pocket to remind me that Paul and Jan are still sharing the way with us. From time to time I stopped to show them a particular place or view. I am not sure if they felt it way back in Melbourne, but it was a help to me when I missed their companionship.

When we arrived at the Cathedral we all piled our symbols together in front of the entrance and took a picture. At that time our team consisted of 14 pilgrims, not 12.

The only other thing I wanted to do was enter the Cathedral itself. By some sheer coincidence we had arrived right in the middle of a Mass. Although the door was closed, they were still letting in a small number of pilgrims. Douglas and I were lucky enough to gain entrance and stand with the throng at the rear of the congregation.

There was one thing I was hoping to witness, but I knew that the chances were almost zero. From time to time the priests light a container of incense and swing it on the end of a rope from the ceiling. Although Carlos had lived in Santiago for many years, he had only witnessed this ceremony on one occasion.

I could scarcely believe it when a female soloist started to sing and the priests prepared the incense. The timing was perfect. Soon it was swinging high over our heads, pulled by a group of about 6 priests all working in unison. The container slowly swung back and forth, each time getting higher and higher, until it almost reached the roof of the church. I had to admit that it really was a special moment, that will stay with me for many years.

When the ceremony was over the congregation burst into applause, the doors were opened and we poured out into the bright sunlight outside. For one young girl backpacker the occasion did not have a happy ending. She had left her backpack outside the cathedral to go inside and it had obviously been stolen while she was inside. It was heartbreaking to see her distress and I could not help but feel angry that the gypsy woman that had been sitting in the doorway and taking money from people to "watch their bags" had done nothing to help. I even wondered if it had been part of a scam. It was such a shame that when you see examples of the very best of humanity, all too often you also see examples of the very worst.

We checked into our hotel and were so relieved to take off our shoes and enjoy the showers. It will be wonderful not to have to don them again for a few days. Sandals will be my footwear of choice until we reach Portugal in a couple of days time. Czytaj więcej