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Pontevedra

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    • Dia 14

      Day 13 - Redondela to Pontevedra

      5 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      I know the saying “only mad dogs and Englishmen” usually refers to being out in hot weather, but I’m sure it also applies to the inclement, pour down, soaked to the bone weather we had today. When we looked out the window this morning, it looked like a drizzle, and then it came down harder. And harder. And harder. So, ponchos on, caps on to save ourselves from the waterboarding ahead, we took to the road.

      Ok, let’s be honest - it was a difficult day. But in a good way, in that, yes there were hills, and paths that became rivers, and not enough cafes to stop at, but none of it was insurmountable. It was what it was. And we did a grand job of it. We laughed, talked, sometimes said nothing, kissed on bridges, held hands, chatted to other walkers (why do they insist on talking politics???), and we made it to Pontevedra. Tonight we are staying in a hostel (Paul’s first), and we had a lovely dinner, even if the waiter forgot to put half our order through, and we had ice cream on the way back, and now I’m tucked up in my top bunk bed with Paul below, and I feel “good tired”.

      We met one cat.
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    • Dia 15

      nach Caldas de Reyes

      27 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Im Regen geht es weiter in Richtung Santiago. Das Regenwetter wird mich am Vormittag weiter begleiten. Auch heute geht es wieder durch den Wald. Das Hotel war nicht gut. Von Palace keine Spur. Wieder extrem laut, lieblos und alt. Nur mit Kopfhörern gelang es mir ein paar Stunden zu schlafen.Leia mais

    • Dia 17

      Day 5 Cycling Coastal Camino

      22 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Today we are cycling 34+ km from Vigo to Ponteverde. We had breakfast in the hotel and were able to catch up again with our UK friends, Mary and Keith. They are a lovely couple and we chat about our rides as they are on the same route. Following breakfast, Joanne and I each bought some Galician jewelery ( sterling silver necklace with the celtic tiles in the center).

      DESCRIPTION
      Cycle along Vigo's city streets as you head northeast, leaving the urban area behind. Follow the line of the Ria de Vigo estuary for views of floating mussel farms, the Cies islands and the city and port of Vigo as you ride between villages and through a forest
      A descent then takes you to the town of Redondela, where your Portuguese Coastal Camino merges with the Portuguese Central Camino. There are plenty of coffee shops and restaurants here, as well as interesting
      medieval buildings. You'll cycle over a hill to pass through the riverside town of Arcade, where you can pause for juicy fat
      oysters. Continuing on, you'll soon reach the atmospheric square of Pontevedra after enjoying a downhill section. Here you can
      admire the medieval architecture as you sip a cold beer or wine with some tapas. This bustling city has a wonderful atmosphere and great Galician cuisine.

      We decided to try using our gps to get out of this big city because Macs navigation hasn't been the best for these bigger centers.... Well, this turned out to be an adventure. Our gps took us to the bus station and here we had to go down stairs, through 5 barriers and a fence, all of which were moveable as luck would have it. We had bike paths for awhile and were overlooking the Rio de Vigo estuary with the vast amount of floating mussel farms. We were going under the overpasses, and then an incredibly long, difficult climb up to the actual Camino trail in a rain shower. It was a slog to say the least. Once at the trail we saw a lot more pilgrims for awhile again as we rode through a beautiful forest path. From here, we rode a steep descent into the Redondela location where the Coastal and Central Camino trails meld. We found a coffee shop and sat for about an hour and 2 coffees later because a rain shower hit. We had a nice conversation with a father and son from the Dominican Republic. The father had been doing sections of the Camino for many years and had completed approx. 800 miles. The son has been doing sections for 3 years. We carried on after the rain shower and came over a beautiful old bridge on the Rio Verdugo ( seeing lots of what we were calling crypt-like structures from Vigo to today and Anthony asked about them and they are used to store grains from the field, etc)then began another long ascent up and over to the town of Arcade. This was an incredibly hard ride. Many parts we had to walk because the grades were so steep. Our gears couldn't go low enough!! We had a perfectly timed videocall with Jacob to take a rest mid-way this climb🥰👌We had more very steep descents today with technical sections. It kept us on our toes for sure. We used our gps as we got closer to Pontevedra and found our Hotel.
      We had a long line of Pilgrims checking in and as Joanne and I waited, Anthony and Andrew bought some beers at the supermercado and sat outside in the sunshine enjoying them. We got showered and ready to go find some of the Galician artisans. Our first stop was very special with 6 local women working on looms to make scarves, socks, blankets, dresses, etc. Joanne bought socks and I bought a small bag. The teacher made both products we purchased. They were all very talented. We were asking them about other shops to buy other types of products like pottery or jewelery, etc. The one lady kindly walked us at least 15 minutes to another shop and on the way she took us through the Medieval section of Ponteverde where at least 4 Michelin star restaurants are located. We walked past a medieval cathedral to a town center with the Sanctuary de Ponteverde is located and many pilgrims visit because it is shaped like a shell. She brought us to a beautiful shop. We took a picture with her and then looked around. We had a really fun tapas dinner together again, but this one we tried local Galician cuisine ( octopus, Padron green roasted peppers, grilled sardines, & mixed salad with olives and tuna). After dinner we enjoyed some delicious Gelato. I tried a chocolate neuro that was so incredible. It is made with Belgian chocolate and black cocoa powder, no milk or cream. We walked back to look in the Sanctuary and it was so beautiful. There were the clam shell symbols everywhere throughout the church. We walked back to the hotel to get ready for our next day.
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    • Dia 31

      Caldas de Reis

      17 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Heute morgen starteten wir um 7 Uhr beim Hostel und trafen vor der Tür Ted und Henry, die uns erzählten, dass heute in Galicia ein Feiertag und somit alles geschlossen ist, außer den Bars. Wir waren natürlich überrascht, aber dann müssen wir eben Essen gehen, wird sich was finden.
      17.Mai ist in Galicia ein gesetzlicher Feiertag, literature day, Tag der Literatur. Die erste Feier fand 1963 zum Gedenken an den 100. Jahrestag einer der bedeutendsten Dichterinnen in der Geschichte Galiziens statt.
      Ansonst gibt es zum heutigen Regentag nicht viel zu sagen. Bis Mittag hat es geregnet, dann kam die Sonne raus und es war schwül, aber fein. Aber denkste, kurz vor 13 Uhr , noch bevor die Albergue öffnete, schüttete es wieder. Eine warme Dusche war angesagt und Essen f. 18:30 in einer Burgeria, nicht weit entfernt. Nur noch 2 Etappen bis Santiago. Wir werden alle gemeinsam einlaufen und die Messe besuchen.
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    • Dia 13

      Pontevedra, Spain

      3 de maio, Espanha ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Got lost along the highway, much more rain, boots completely soaked, but it was still a pleasant day. Trail angels set up a nice covered shelter where we ate and drank and had international conversations. We follow the yellow arrows but they're not always helpful. At the end of the day we have the most luxurious lodgeings: jacuzzi tub, flat screen TV, free laundry, coffee, breakfast :)Leia mais

    • Dia 12–13

      Day 8 walking

      24 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

      Walked 14.6 miles today. My knee is hurting, but I’m stretching and doing my exercises before I walk and at night. We walked from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reiss. Nice hotel. Exhausted. Dinner was not great. Basically ate bread and French fries and gelato on the way home. Cold tonight. Turned on the heat in my room. I’m happy to be sleeping in a queen bed tonight. My room has a nice skylight. Luggage service picked up our bags today and no issues. We put extra poundage in the van. Three more days of walking. Night. We continue to pray for so many prayers. Loving the new Anne Lamott book on audio and also started Remarkably Bright Creatures on audio. Also listened to NPC sermon from Sunday and Chelsea Handler’s podcast with Monica Lewinsky. Both great listens. Thanks for following along.Leia mais

    • Dia 11

      Farms, Vineyards, Forests and Rivers

      26 de outubro de 2023, Espanha ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

      We woke today to the sounds of church bells and more rain, actually a torrential rain! So naturally we laced up the boots, threw on our ponchos and took off heading North! As we get closer to Santiago there are more pilgrims and we are really enjoying chatting along the way with some very interesting people. Funny we’ve met a couple of sibling groups traveling the Way of St. James with us and it’s so refreshing to see other families like us having this bonding time. I have been so grateful to make the journey with Richard because he finds the arrows very quickly and navigates the best path and he’s always there around the corner making me laugh when I arrive thinking I can’t breathe or take another step. We both love animals and it was a treat to have had a little doggie escort for about a mile this morning through the first village until he finally had enough of us and ran back down the hill. Our first stop was at an austere little chapel, St Marta, in a tiny farming community. Even so early the door was open and candles were burning. God bless that caretaker because it gave us a chance to give thanks for our morning as well as to reorganize packs, wring out wet socks and catch a breath before marching on.
      After the chapel there were supposedly two options for the route (Tomaza Division?) but we only saw one and it turned out to be a very difficult stage. We walked through a forest along the rivers Dos Gafos and Pintos and the path started deteriorating rapidly as we made our way. The river was swollen and fast and the paths were just a series of large puddles. At one alarming point we were knee deep in cold water and we considered turning back but then 4 pilgrims popped up behind us and we all made the joint decision to push forward. We were all so relieved to make it to Pontevedra. It was supposed to be an easy day for us- only 9 miles- but probably a day I won’t forget soon because we worked so hard. We were lucky to arrive in town early enough for the menú del diá and had some lovely pasta with mushrooms, some fish and a pork chop. Delicious and only 10euro! The town here is beautiful, filled with shops and lots of people dressed very stylishly. I look a wet, bedraggled mess but people smile and nod and I guess they are used to pilgrims making their way through town. We were able to get into our hostel, shower and do laundry before going out to explore and lo and behold the rain had let up! Praise the Lord- we saw the sun! This was very encouraging so we strolled around and visited the ruins of the church of San Domingos- dating from 14th century and now a national protected monument. We sampled some Santiago tartas which are little almond cakes flavored with orange and lemon supposedly first baked in 1577 in honor of Saint James. They are yummy and of course I will find a recipe to make some when I get back home! We visited the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Shelter and the Divine Pilgrim- it’s square in the middle of town surrounded by modern buildings but it shines like a star and its architecture is breathtaking- we both stopped in our tracks when we saw it! Tonight we went back for a pilgrim’s Rosary and Mass and all I could think when I saw the church tonight was that it looked like a jewel box. Tomorrow we hope to get an early start, visit the Basilica and be on our way. As I close I hear people outside at the bars and cafés laughing and chatting and I hear the rain hitting the pavement- I think I will sleep good tonight!
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    • Dia 29

      Getting Close!

      13 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Just 75 km's to Santiago now. In a lovely albergue in Pontesampaio. It was Katae"s last night. Unfortunately she will not go to Santiago, but onto her volunteer albergue job. Rafael , Blanca, and myself are still together. Today's land cross section was very tough. We had a few kilometers of steep straight down. Some lovely forest track tho. Have a look at todays pics.Leia mais

    • Dia 20

      Arcade to Pontevedra

      1 de outubro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      We had our second hill after Arcade. This was mostly on soft paths through forests, so I enjoyed the climb a lot more.

      We stopped at a roadside ‘tienda’ for a chocolate bar. It was well set up, with bales for seats, and a friendly dog.

      Entering Pontevedra there is a Complimentario route, which goes along a small stream. It was a bit longer, but was in the shade. It is a very nice path.

      Tonight we are living in luxury with a private room for two. With towels and sheets!
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    • Dia 15

      Top of yet another climb!

      3 de julho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      It’s another pleasant day to walk! Feeling much better today! On the way out of Redondela, we met Andrea from Portland who is also a teacher! 😄 I loved the walk through Arcade… although very hilly! And it’s been a steady climb ever since! Love the shaded trail that goes by creeks and has old Roman road stones still in place! Stopped at the top at a vendor for pilgrims and got a fresh squeezed strawberry lemonade! Letting the feet get some air and then we start a steady descent.Leia mais

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