Spain
Lugo

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    • Day 23

      To Chantada — 34 km and 900 m

      May 3 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      It felt weird leaving this morning, knowing that I would not be meeting up with Clare, since she was heading to Madrid. Time to make a mental adjustment.

      When I left Monforte this morning, I had pretty much made up my mind to stop after about 24 km in a new albergue that has been built inside the 14th century Bishops Palace adjacent to a beautiful 12th century Romanesque church. I’ve never been able to see the inside of the church, and I heard that the hospitalera had the key. On the way, I went to two lookout spots over the Minho River to see my other favorite horseshoe bend. The regional government has spent a lot of money, improving the lookout points, and the views were great, even though it was cloudy.

      When I got to the albergue, had a rest, and visited the church and the albergue facilities, I just couldn’t bring myself to stop walking. It was not raining, there was no one else there, and everything all around was wet, I decided to do the last 8 km into Chantada . This meant descending on a beautiful but slightly wet and slippery trail, crossing the river and then ascending to the top on the other side.

      The Minho Valley is supposedly its own microclimate, and when I crested the top for the last 5 km into Chantada, the gusts of cold wind and strong rain hit me in the face. Just as things were feeling grim, I came upon a group of very joyous Portuguese pilgrims. The time passed quickly, but I was so happy to arrive in my hotel. Hair dryer, heat, towel heating rack— all of those amenities were very much appreciated.
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    • Day 24

      To Rodeiro — 27 km and 700 m

      May 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      I think I can remember several short stretches in which it wasn’t raining, but my memory has one overriding picture of a rainy and very windy day. There was one stretch out in a big field when I could see the wind blowing sheets of rain across my path. It was a memorable day, because it has been years and years and years since I had a full day of rain on the Camino.

      Today’s route goes up to a high spot with great views, but there would be no views today. I had already decided. I was going to take an alternate lower route so that I could visit a Romanesque church— and if you can believe it, the rain stopped just as I got there, so that I could take out my phone and take pictures of this really beautiful doorway.

      It was raining when I started out, but not a pounding rain. After several hours, though, my feet were completely soaked and were not going to get any wetter. So I became less picky about working my way around puddles.

      The early part of the walk has two petos de ánimas (alms box for the souls in purgatory — I never did understand how payment would make its way up to get their release, though). And then comes the only bar on this 26 km stretch (which is why the crowds have not yet descended on this Camino). I remembered the owner from several other Caminos and it was fun to hear her impressions of how things have changed.

      After that stop at about 8 km, my next stop, about 4 hours later, was a little covered Galician bus stop. There I bumped into a forum member— She was heading out and we agreed to meet up at dinner.

      I try to find the beauty in these days, and there was plenty today to keep my spirits in good order. How can I complain when I’m 73 and still walking caminos?! Once you descend into a chorus of whining about the rain, things get self-pitying, and what’s the point of that?

      It was great to arrive at the Hostal/Albergue, though, where I have once again opted for a private room. No hairdryer today so my shoes will probably be wet tomorrow, but that’s OK because more rain is forecast anyway!
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    • Day 28–29

      Casa Susi ~ Trabadelo

      May 11 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      In doing our Camino research, there was one small special Albergue “Casa Susi” where we were really hoping to snag a bed. A few weeks into our trip, we calculated when we might arrive in the Trabadelo area and called to see if there was an opening for May 12th. Unfortunately, the date was booked. After looking at our schedule a little more we checked for an opening on May 11th, and they had 2 beds available!!!! It was fate that we were treated to this wonderful Albergue on Kim’s 50th birthday.

      Our jaw dropping day in the mountains culminated with an incredible celebration at Casa Susi, with a home-cooked vegetarian dinner, birthday desserts & singing , followed by a special visit to La Torre de Villafranca del Bierzo Bodega 🍷 to see Dan Mullins (A famous Camino podcaster and musician) in concert! 🎶 . We were up way past our normal 10pm bedtime 😂. Susi and her wonderful husband, Fermín, were such wonderful hosts, we couldn’t have asked for a more special day on the Camino 💕
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    • Day 38

      Trabadelo to O’Cebreiro

      May 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      It was very sad to leave Casa Susi. It has been the perfect way to regroup and rest. The food and company has done a lot to lift my spirits.

      I took a taxi to O’Cebreiro as I wouldn’t have been able to climb that mountain. We are now in Galicia and almost finished with the steep climbs.

      I went to my first pilgrim’s mass and blessing this evening. The theme was ‘hope’ and I will take that with me over the next six days as I head towards Santiago de Compostela.

      Casa Campelo
      4kms
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    • Day 30

      The earliest departure ever

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Got out shortly after 6 in the morning in order to attack the big hill that is coming up and give myself plenty of time to do that
      temperatures are still supposed to get hotter in the day with the possibility of thunderstorms developing after 2:00pm

      Obviously got treated to a sign of a full moon and unfortunately missed the pink moon the previous night
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    • Day 28

      Etappe 23 - La Laguna 1

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Nachtruhe gibt verbrauchte Kräfte doch schnell zurück. Ziehe zwar die Schnarcher an, aber mit Ohrstöpsel einigermaßen zu ertragen.
      Heute gemeinsam mit Patrick aus Melbourne gegen 8 Uhr gestartet.
      Bis Las Herrerias eine einigermaßen abwechslungsreiche Etappe, ohne große Steigungen. Sind viel entlang der Landstraße gelaufen. War kein verkehrliches Problem, da heute Sonntag ist.
      Dann ging es in die Bergkilometer bis La Laguna. Hier bin ich, trotz Landstraße, ganz schön am meine Grenzen gekommen.
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    • Day 30

      Dinner

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Ok laugh all you want....
      So this Linares where we are is a SERIOUS hole in the wall
      There is no restaurant here...but we can still drink beer...
      And there is a grocery store...so...got what we can
      And there you have it
      The finest food that Spain can offer 😋
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    • Day 34

      Tag 34 Villafranca Lalaguna de Castilla

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Der heutige Tag ist nur mit einen zu beschreiben sehr Fordernt.
      Es ging erst durch einen Schnellstraßen Tunnel der eigentlich für Fußgänger gesperrt ist.
      Dann fing es an zu regnen und zu guter letzt ging es auch noch 700 Meter hoch.
      Er war der erste Tag wo ich wirklich am Ende war und froh als die Herberge in Sicht kam. Natürlich wie sollte es auch anders sein gab es als Belohnung noch eine richtig dicke Blase.
      Bei der mir ein anderer Pilger dann gleich half und die Blase versorgte.
      Genau so wie ich am 2ten Tag einem anderen auch geholfen hatte.
      Das ist der Geist dieses Weges .
      Genau wie in einer große Familie.
      Es wäre schön wenn dieser Geist auch im normalen Leben Einzug hälte.
      Leider gibt es das viel zu wenig.
      Hier merkt man erst das es völlig egal ist wo einer herkommt und was er macht alle haben die gleichen Outdoor sachen an so gibt es keine unterschiede.
      Alle sind einfach nur Pilger.
      Die 600 km Marke ist geschafft.
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    • Day 33

      Von villafranca nach la laguna de castil

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      Hallo zusammen, heute stand die nächste Etappe auf dem Speisezettel und das Menü war seeehr abwechslungsreich. Vorspeise: Überwiegender Untergrund: Asphalt an Tunneldurchführung und Autobahnbrücken. Hauptspeise: Strömender Regen, zerklüftete Bergpanoramen und Sonne Wolkenmix. Nachspeise: extrem steile Anstiege mit Geröll und glitschigem Untergrund auf ca 1200 hm, Hellado in Form von Hagelkörnern. Alles in allem ein abwechslungsreiches Menü auf einer Länge von ca 25km. Erkenntnis des Tages: Es wird gegessen, was auf der Speisekarte steht.Read more

    • Day 28

      Etappe 23 - La Laguna 2

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      In La Laguna gegen 15 Uhr erschöpft, aber glücklich angekommen.
      Herberge wieder 10 Personen in einem Raum. Aus unserer gestrigen Auberge alle wiedergetroffen. Hier geht wahrscheinlich keiner verloren.
      Derzeit bin ich fast nur mit englisch sprechenden Pilgern zusammen. Muss ganz schön meine Englischkenntnisse ausgraben. Manchmal beginne ich schon in englisch zu denken, bzw. Selbstgespräche zu führen - seltsam!
      Bin hier völlig auf dem Lande - wie aus den Fotos ersichtlich.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Provincia de Lugo, Lugo, Província de Lugo

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