Lugo

I think I can remember several short stretches in which it wasn’t raining, but my memory has one overriding picture of a rainy and very windy day. There was one stretch out in a big field when I could see the wind blowing sheets of rain across my path. It was a memorable day, because it has been years and years and years since I had a full day of rain on the Camino.

Today’s route goes up to a high spot with great views, but there would be no views today. I had already decided. I was going to take an alternate lower route so that I could visit a Romanesque church— and if you can believe it, the rain stopped just as I got there, so that I could take out my phone and take pictures of this really beautiful doorway.

It was raining when I started out, but not a pounding rain. After several hours, though, my feet were completely soaked and were not going to get any wetter. So I became less picky about working my way around puddles.

The early part of the walk has two petos de ánimas (alms box for the souls in purgatory — I never did understand how payment would make its way up to get their release, though). And then comes the only bar on this 26 km stretch (which is why the crowds have not yet descended on this Camino). I remembered the owner from several other Caminos and it was fun to hear her impressions of how things have changed.

After that stop at about 8 km, my next stop, about 4 hours later, was a little covered Galician bus stop. There I bumped into a forum member— She was heading out and we agreed to meet up at dinner.

I try to find the beauty in these days, and there was plenty today to keep my spirits in good order. How can I complain when I’m 73 and still walking caminos?! Once you descend into a chorus of whining about the rain, things get self-pitying, and what’s the point of that?

It was great to arrive at the Hostal/Albergue, though, where I have once again opted for a private room. No hairdryer today so my shoes will probably be wet tomorrow, but that’s OK because more rain is forecast anyway!Read more