Spain
Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles

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    • Day 4–5

      Roncesvalles Monastery & Pilgrims Hostel

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      As history tells it, the doors to Roncesvalles Monastery were open for Christians and pagans, rich and poor, with no distinctions. Pilgrims could have a bath and have their shoes repaired. Sick people received the best attention and were treated with best medicine and they could rest in clean and soft beds. Fast forward to now, and it seems not much has changed—except perhaps the addition of indoor plumbing and electricity. Yesterday, after battling the elements through the Pyrenees mountains, we arrived at this ancient refuge, eager to experience firsthand the storied hospitality of this legendary stop on the Camino de Santiago.

      The promise of a hot shower, a soft bed, and a warm meal felt like a luxury—and in many ways, it was. The Roncesvalles Monastery, now bustling with volunteers rather than monks, offers around 420 beds and for $32 a person, we had access to sinks to hand wash our clothes, a shower, a warm dinner, a soft bed & a simple breakfast.

      After a much-needed long, hot shower, we partook in the pilgrim's mass, then enjoyed a communal dinner with new friends from Ireland, Germany, Italy & Washington DC.

      Sleeping in a dormitory style bed at the monastery is an experience akin to camping indoors with a chorus of nasal flutes. So. Much. Snoring. It seems that traversing over the Pyrenees in miserable weather conditions does wonders for the sinuses. 🤣But who's to complain? We were all in the same boat—or should I say, bed?

      The "lights out" policy at 10 PM was strictly enforced, as was the 6 AM wake-up call, which was not just a gentle nudge but a full sensory experience. Lights flickered on, and the sound of monks singing wafted through the halls, a reminder that it was time to rise, shine, and strap on those hiking boots for another day of adventure. Although it wasn’t the most restful night that either of us had, we are grateful for the experience 🙏🏼
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    • Day 2

      Albergue de Roncesvalles

      April 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Zunächst einmal an alle die mir folgen, schreiben und mir so liebe Worte schreiben ein großes und ♥️-liches Dankeschön. Ich freue mich darüber und seht es mir nach dass ich bislang nicht drauf antworte, aber alles ist bei mir angekommen und ich freue mich wirklich ganz dolle. DANKE

      Später hoffe ich hier meine Gedanken und den Tag zu dokumentieren, aber, ich bin echt platt nach dieser Etappe. Wat fürn Weg.

      Aber unvergessen schön!!!!

      Zunächst möchte ich loswerden das ich nach dem gestrigen Foto abends noch ein schlechtes Gewissen hatte. Ich bin die Woche noch krank geschrieben und trotzdem schon unterwegs, mein Arzt hat es aber bescheinigt dass es notwendig ist. Und dann poste ich nur tolle Bilder. Naja es war einfach die Freude die ewig lange Anreise geschafft zu haben.

      Letzen Endes war es noch wie reisen - eben An *reise*.

      Heute ist es anders. Es ist wie in meinem ersten Klinikaufenthalt 2005. Man will motiviert gleich loslegen und NEIN, die Devise lautet, erstmal ankommen, sich einlassen und die Problembewältugung kommt dann schon von ganz alleine.

      Der Tag heute war der Hammer. Gepostete Bilder können nur annähernd die wunderschöne Natur, Eindrücke und Begegnungen beschreiben, die sie in real eben waren. Leute wer den Jakobsweg als Wunsch hat - macht es!!!!!

      Um sieben bin ich los, völlig überbepackt mit ca 15kg auf dem Rücken und es ging bergauf, bergauf, steil bergauf........ Puh habe ich geschwitzt und die zwei Liter Wasser waren wirklich notwendig.

      Bin mit einem jungen Iren 🇮🇪 gelaufen und hatte mit ihm viele tolle Gespräche und je weiter oben wir waren um so häufiger war ne Pause notwendig. Geraucht habe ich so gut wie gar nicht und die Lunge wurde heute echt belastet und durchgeblasen.

      Stellenweise bin ich fast kollabiert und da kam mir mein kampfsport von früher zu Hilfe. Trainieren bis zum äußersten, wenn Brechreiz rausgehen sich übergeben, reinkommen.... Weitermachen.

      Begegnet bin ich weiter Franzosen 🇫🇷, einen Tschechen 🇨🇿, Spanier 🇪🇸, Asiaten, Litauen 🇱🇹, Österreich 🇦🇹, Niederlande 🇳🇱, Italien 🇮🇹, Deutschland 🇩🇪, Großbritannien 🇬🇧, Russland 🇷🇺. Coooool wie international und jeder eben auf seinem Weg aus seinen Gründen. Toll 😊

      Ein Mann ist mit seinem Sohn auf dem Weg und mich hat schon sehr meine Vater /Sohn Beziehung beschäftigt.

      Kurz vor dem Höhepunkt des Berges hab ich den Iren 🇮🇪 auf dem Weg verloren und bin bergab alleine gelaufen. Erst war ich traurig wegen alleine, aber dann kamen die ersten eigenen Gedanken und Tränen und Ansätze für Lösungen.

      Mir ist wichtig das ihr versteht dass ich die nächsten Wochen nur über hier kommuniziere. Kein WhatsApp, kein Telefonat.

      Wenn ich zwischenmenschlich mit jemandem was abklären möchte, werde ich es hier nicht öffentlich schreiben, sondern gesondert über Nachrichtfunktion im privaten.

      Noch sind nicht alle Menschen hier gemeldet und ich hoffe, dass sie bald sich hier melden und teilhaben.

      Claudia wo bist du? Ich habe wirklich den Wunsch unsere Freundschaft zu retten, ich möchte klären, erklären, zuhören warum wir uns nicht mehr so nahe sind, ich stellenweise sauer bin und ich möchte fair auch deinen Anteil. Deine Eltern sind inzwischen auch hier vertreten, worüber ich happy bin. Claudi du warst heute schon ein Stück Thema. Lass uns Lösungen finden, denn ich will dich nicht verlieren.

      Tja meine Nachbarin sagte ob es so gut ist nun jeden Tag hier Kontakt zu haben mit der Außenwelt. Ja natürlich will ich mich auf mich konzentrieren, aber Menschen dir mir wichtig sind, haben Anteil an mir und ich werde nach hier wieder Anteil an euch haben.

      Mich beschäftigt mein Thema psyche. Mein Ziel ist es diesmal so zu schaffen, dass das Thema psyche ein Ende findet seit 2005, der Kreis sich schließt, ich gelerntes umsetze, anwende und mein Leben endlich wieder farbenfroh wird und ich selbstbewusst wieder bin.... In mir. Hallo lieber Therapeut, gefühlt bin ich es ihnen "schuldig" und möchte ihnen das Gefühl und die Bestätigung geben, dass sie eine tolle Arbeit mit mir geleistet haben und durch den Erfolg ihre Anerkennung und mein Danke erhalten. Nach fünf Jahren möchte ich dann loslassen wie besprochen mit einem beiderseits guten und richtigen Gefühl. Momentan große Worte, aber es ist mein Ziel und wer den Klaus kennt, schafft er es in der Regel was er sich in den Kopf setzt. Ich möchte wirklich von Herzen dass sich der psyche - Kreis nach langer Zeit schließt.

      Ich habe zudem einen Freund im Gepäck für den ich mir in Gedanken Zeit nehme, begrenzt aber mit vielen Emotionen unterschiedlichster Art. So fern ich es schaffe werde ich mich damit auseinandersetzen, begrenzt von der Zeit, weil es meine Anliegen ja auch noch gibt, aber ich räume auch da auf in mir, weil er mir wichtig ist. Ob er es möchte, schätzt oder was auch immer, wird der Zeitpunkt dann schon zeigen.

      Luca hat sich gemeldet, darüber war ich heute wirklich happy, auch ein echt lieber Mensch dem ich begegnen durfte, Wilhelm fehlt mir noch hier!

      Der Tag heute war super von vielen extremen bishin tief emotional in mein eigenes ich.

      Ja ich komme an, ja ich möchte es angehen und ich habe eine so wunderbare, tiefempfundene innere Gewissheit JA KLAUS ENDLICH BIST DU AUF DEINEM WEG

      Eines Tages werde ich dies hier alles als Buch drucken lassen, mit allen Erinnerungen und Bildern. Deswegen schreibe ich hier so ausführlich.

      Ich habe schonmal ein Buch geschrieben und meine wirklich nahen Freunde kennen es. Hier kommt Teil zwei 😊😍🥳

      Musik hat mir heute geholfen. Endlich wieder Gefühle durch Musik zuzulassen, Emotionen erleben, Träumen, heulen, Mut fassen endlich finde ich wieder zu meinen Gefühlen zurück. Zu mir selbst. 🤧😭🕺😠🤔 und viele viele Emotionen mehr.

      Nun lieg ich hier in einer riesigen Herberge, endlich geduscht, Kleidung gewaschen, endlich gegessen und fast fertig mit dem Tagebuch und bereit einfach nur noch zu 😴😴😴

      Bin gespannt was der Tag morgen bringt. Einfach offen sein und es passieren lassen. Nicht geplant, strukturiert und sich verrückt machen. Einfach sein.

      Ach ja auf dem Weg habe ich heute 1€ gefunden. 100 Glücks-Cents 🍀😊🙃😉🤭🤭

      Super schöner Tag heute und danke lieber Gott dafür und jeden einzelnen Moment. Ich trage Dich, einen Freund und alles von heute in meinem Herzen 💕

      Danke
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    • Day 14

      Valcarlos a Orreaga/Roncesvalles

      April 3 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      I’m glad the Camino started with a good day, because today was a beat down. I got a bit late of a start at just after 9. I knew that it would be a lot of uphill, but I had no idea! I’m not sure the accuracy of this, but I found online that over the course of the 7.5 miles I walked, there was an elevation gain of 3,940 feet with a loss of 2,011 ft. I began using a mantra to keep myself going “poco a poco, paso a paso.” I’d keep my head down, pick a spot a bit up the trail, walk there, stop for a short breather. Repeat ad nauseam. Also, thank God for earbuds and iPhones- I was able to listen to some upbeat music, which helped. And just when I thought the uphill would never end, the trail let out onto a beautiful hilltop (unfortunately, I didn’t stay to enjoy it- nature was calling and it’s not the sort of place to dig a cat hole!)

      Check in to the albergue was easy, though a poor French girl in front of me was denied a bed as she didn’t have her physical passport on her. I bought food tickets for breakfast and dinner, but the assigned restaurant said they couldn’t accommodate celiac. Fortunately the next one I went to said they could, so I got the tickets changed. I’m a little nervous about how well they’ll do, as it’s a small place with probably hundreds of pilgrims. Prayers that they get it right and that my body does ok with the food!

      Only a few pictures today and no video because I was dead. Hoping for a good night’s sleep before a long day tomorrow- less elevation, so it shouldn’t be too bad 🤞
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    • Day 4

      Made it to Spain

      September 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      Today could be summed up with one word...ROUGH! It was, by far, harder then yesterday. But, after a lot of uphill walking and one panic attack, I finally got to the downhill part. That provided its own challenges, but I made it! My UK ladies left me behind first thing this morning. I've met more people along The Way to walk with. A special thanks goes to Dave and G, from the US, and John and Shon, from the UK, for talking me thru the last of my panic attack and walking with me the rest of the day. I was able to get a bed at Roncesvalles. Good thing. I know I could not have made it any further.Read more

    • Day 7

      Roncesvalles (16.8km / 24.3km)

      April 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      We started off with stunning conditions. The sunrise over the Pyrenees was breathtaking. We had a communal breakfast - very simple but nice to be seated with everyone. Coffee was served in a soup bowl! Had lovely Face Time calls with Theresa and Shannon and then - We rounded a corner and the wind hit us and it pretty much stayed with us the whole day. Gusts of gale force winds , piercingly cold. A head wind while climbing, climbing, climbing. The scenery did a good job at distracting the difficult conditions. A good break at a van who had parked out of the wind, and served delicious and much needed coffee. We continued to climb. We crossed over a cow grid and entered Spain just like that. More climbing and a bit of a relief while walking through a muddy forest. We found a good spot to eat our baguettes which we ordered at last nights accommodation. We eventually caught sight of the Albergue (Historical Pilgrim Hospital) which was our destination, far down below. So now for the climb down, down, down. The Pilgrim Hostel is huge and sleeps hundreds. We are in a bunk room of 4. A much needed beer or two, and reminiscing on the difficult day with other pilgrims before another communal dinner followed by Mass. An unexpected surprise after mass. The priest gave a Pilgrim Blessing and then invited us to stay for a tour of the church. He enthusiastically told us about the history of the church in 3 languages and then took us down to the crypt where he orchestrated an impromptu “Amazing Grace”. Time for these weary legs to head off to bed!Read more

    • Day 17

      Pyrenees conquered, downhill from now!

      April 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

      We have made it to Roncesvalles - even though we didn’t go the hard way over the top, we had a day with a lot of climbing and feel proud of ourselves. It was cold, but not freezing - I actually took off a layer before the final climb - and there was snow around, on the top of the mountains and around our path but nothing that impeded the walking…in fact for me it is rather magic to be amongst snow! It rained a little, but never pouring, just drops in the air, and sometimes it was snow showers - droplets of flakes!

      We are now in the very lovely hotel here that we remember from last time 10 years ago…it looks like a wing of the monastery and similar to the albergue, except with all the refinements of a hotel! It is warm and I have no intention of stepping outside till we leave tomorrow morning! We were expected, our bags were waiting, we are booked in for dinner and all is very good.

      Set off at about 9, or exactly as we heard the church bells bong the hour. We wore ponchos all day and I am very happy with my new voluminous blue one - it fits well over the backpack and didn’t let any drips in! Also very happy with my new sticks…We walked only about 14 kms, but it was strenuous and even Amr feels quite worn out! I had to plod on the LONG uphill but once finished I was very happy going downhill to Roncesvalles, and now don’t feel at all worn out, just happy that we are here!! It was such a different walk from 10 years ago. Then the trees were in full leaf and it was just like walking through a forest. Today the trees were bare enough that we were aware of the enormous rocks and mountains surrounding us, and the valleys…such a different scene, and magnificent scenery.

      Now the bar where we are having a wine (it was empty when we came) has filled with walkers all swapping stories of today…this is such fun. Some people walked all the way over the top, some walked our route, some were warned it was too snowy and difficult over the top and got a taxi!! Everyone is happy…mainly Americans, Aussies and Canadians right now…but many more…all good.

      Dinner was good…though it took ages as they were also serving a room full of pilgrims from the albergue and I think we got forgotten…but food yummy…Amr had the bean soup and I had a mixed salad to start (mixed means lettuce, tomato, tuna, egg, asparagus ) and Amr had grilled bass for main and I had a deer stew…so delicious…comfort food! Off to sleep now…
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    • Day 6

      End Day 1/Beginning Day 2

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

      Yesterday’s walk ended with a wait for the shuttle bus back to Saint Jean. I was very cold as it was a bit windy and cold, plus I had sweated and then stopped moving. I was huddled up with my rain poncho on for warmth when another pilgrim joined me to wait. I commented on how cold it was, and she laughed at me. Turns out that Caroline is from Quebec, so she no doubt thought it was balmy! We had another good laugh on the shuttle; the drivers whip up and down the one-lane road, which is next to a sheer drop for much of the route we were on. Caroline muttered, “Please don’t kill me!” I said, “Man, wouldn’t it be something to die after all of that?!” And then we laughed and laughed. Maybe you had to be there! This morning’s commute was even scarier, with a passing situation that had me pretty worried! I guess I’m pretty thoroughly a flat-lander at this point.

      Obviously we didn’t die, and I made it to my gite (hostel), which was really nice. The volunteer host was Oili, a very kind Finnish yoga teacher. I was just exhausted after 3 hours sleep the night before and then the long climb, so I was asleep by 7:00. I did awaken a few times, but I’m pretty sure I got in 10 hours before 6:00 this morning. I feel so much better!

      I shared a dormitory with six other people. Only one of them snored, and he wasn’t too close to me, so it wasn’t too bad. Very cozy. Oili served breakfast and coffee and then led a “Pilgrim Ceremony.” (It was most people’s first day.) This was a mindfulness exercise mixed with a benediction of sorts and ended with a recording of John Denver singing “Sweet, Sweet Surrender.” It was nice. The best part of the morning was cake for breakfast! One of the offerings was a cake I saw in the bakeries, too. Not sure if it was a Basque thing or the tarte de Santiago, but it was delicious.

      1. The view of Saint Jean from the gite’s patio.
      2. My little bunk for the night. I was happy to get to choose a lower bunk.
      3. A house in Saint Jean. No, I wasn’t drunk - the street really is that steep! I appreciated the commitment to flowers.
      4. Even the weeds are pretty in this part of France! I also saw this flower in the mountains today.
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    • Day 4

      Initiation in rain

      August 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      One question I had coming into the Camino was how it would feel to walk in the rain. I found out today! Today was my second day going up the Pyrenees, and it was rainy, windy, and cold. A friend I met at the hostel last night and I exchanged numbers in the morning to make sure we both made it to the next town safely. There were a few different spots on the trail where you had to turn one way and not another or you’d be in trouble. As the hostel owner put it, “Right is life, left is death.” Since going off the trail in the Pyrenees in bad weather is basically the setup for the movie, The Way, I was a bit nervous. Thankfully my way-finding skills are good and I was able to either follow other pilgrims or look out for the intermittent yellow arrows along the trail.

      Todays distance was 10.5 miles and I definitely felt it in my feet by the time I got to town. I went through all 4 pairs of my socks trying to keep my feet dry in the rain. I changed my socks a second time and put Vaseline on my feet to keep my wet feet from getting blisters. My toes were pruny by the time I got to my room, but thankfully no blisters!

      Now I’m settling into my room to rest my feet and wait for a pilgrim dinner later tonight and a service at the church that they do every night as a pilgrim’s blessing. Hoping for dry weather tomorrow!
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    • Day 5

      Walking in the Clouds

      August 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Today was huge!! I am so grateful and lucky to be here but it was hard, hot and windy! I don't think I have ever seen any scenery as beautiful. Got to the monastery and have been given a top bunk- might still be up here in 5 weeks!!Read more

    • Day 2 - Orrison to Roncesvalles - 18km

      August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      18km today - done and done!

      I started out around 7:30am after breakfast. I had a reservation in Roncesvalles so I didn’t need to worry about my pace, I just had to arrive by 7pm or I lose my bed and dinner.

      It was a steady climb up again, but was blessed with seeing the sun rise over the mountains. While walking, it was just as important to occasionally look behind as the scenery was breathtaking every step of the way.

      Physically today was a challenge. It was 13km with a 700m gain plus a 4.5 km decent. On the climb, I took a break about every 4km to make sure I would last. I took my boots off at that point as well. The muscles were holding out pretty well, for awhile. I think about the 11km mark I was really starting to feel my glutes and hamstrings. About 1km into my 4.5 km decent they were screaming! They were so tired. I would stop every so often and stretch them. About 3 km from the end, I could feel some hot spots on my feet forming for blisters, different places than usual because of going downhill, so I sat down and put tape on them right away. I was tempted to wait as it was only 3km but I knew better not to wait if I wanted to keep going the next day.

      I arrived in Roncesvalles by 4pm. It was good I had a reservation as by 3:30pm they were all full. They have a system where they give you a coloured card when you arrive and then call out the colour to check you in. I wasn’t to my bed until 5pm. I then showered, stretched, rolled my muscles and relaxed. Then it was time for the pilgrims dinner. Dinner was pasta, pork and potatoes. They had the option of fish, but I remember from last time that they give you the whole fish, head and all, so didn’t want to deal with that again.

      I wasn’t planning to go to the mass at the church but just as I was leaving dinner, the bells were ringing and the church was right there, so I took it as a sign. I went in and all the standing was killing me (as I am sure it was with the other pilgrims). The mass is all in Spanish, except for a pilgrims blessing at the end where they say a couple sentences in english and other languages. I only caught a few words of it and all I remember is the word “journey.”

      After mass, it was back to the room. This new hostel is awesome. When Jörg and I were hospitaleros in 2014, we drove here and asked to look around as we stayed in the old monastery last time. Because I made a reservation early, I got a bed on the 3rd floor, which was all single beds, it was absolute luxury (in pilgrim terms) The wifi was very strong so I could upload the blogs I had already written but I had no energy left to compile the videos.

      Ok it’s 10pm and the lights are out, so time for bed.

      TTYL
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles, Real Colegiata de Santa Maria de Roncesvalles

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