Spain
Santa Marina del Rey

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    • Day 27

      Life is a Highway…

      September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Leon to San Martin del Camino
      Day 24 -25km

      It was a lovely day for a walk today. We woke up to beautiful blue skies again. Leaving Leon at 8 we passed by the Cathedral for one final look then went through town, onto the river, and then spent the next 8 km ambling through the surrounding towns.
      Not one of our favourite walks today as we had to walk beside the motorway for most of the time however the time went fast, meeting new pilgrims and stopping at cafes and hotels, and we soon found our way to our Albergue.
      Our Albergue has a very rustic feel to it with a vege patch and chickens running around. The lady who runs it is very vibrant and we had a lovely home cooked pilgrims meal tonight with new pilgrim friends from Germany, Canada, South Korea and The Netherlands. ☺️
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    • Day 25

      Astorga

      October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Such a very nice albergue we arrived at today! Even if it had been a bad day, which it was not, ( well, speaking for myself. Morgan is under the weather and did not want to get up - see pic) this place would have made it all good. A warm welcome, a funky, appealing layout, and best of all a wood stove which has suffused the place with the cozy smell of wood smoke, which I love.

      There was also a much nicer than usual oasis along the way, also with sort of a hippy vibe. Very nice!

      Today was also cool and overcast, with occasional light rain: a welcome change! Also the landscape is changing and we had some nice climbs. It sounds weird, but too much flat walking is hard on the feet and legs.

      Astorga is a pretty town with a Cathedral and a palace. I did not fit in a walk through the palace. Next time!

      The time remaining is really getting short now! That said, my early panicky feelings that it’s all going too quickly sometimes morphs into thoughts of how nice it will be to be home. Just depends! We have a LOT of rain ahead. We’ll see how that affects my outlook. I may like it!
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    • Day 29 - León to San Martín - 26km

      September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      I was off early today. I figured today I could leave early (before sunrise) because the first 8-10km will be through city streets and highway. By the time I was out the door, it was about 7:15am.

      Well, the sunrise today was magnificent (as you can see by all the pictures I took). The timing was perfect when I was a little on the outskirts of the city to see this.

      I did 26km today. It was mostly walking a path beside the busy highway so on went my headset again. I listened to CCR and Bruce Springsteen, pretty safe listening, no major love songs!

      I didn’t have a reservation in this town so I wasn’t sure if I was going to get a bed. The next town is another 6.5kms. The first two albergues I approached were full but I lucked out on the third one. It had beds in the dorm and a private room. The private room was only 25 Euros so I opted for it. I have the next two nights reserved and they are dorm beds, so I might as well enjoy the privacy while I can. I looked up the reviews of this place and they all look great.

      There is an evening meal here at 7pm so just relaxing until then. I am not even gonna bother to explore the town. I don’t think there is much here.

      Tomorrow’s walk will start for 6km along the highway, but that will be it for the highway walking. It will be back to hills and paths. In 3 days is the big climb up the mountain to Cruz de Farro. This is where everyone leaves their rocks from home. I am looking forward to that, I have brought a couple rocks from home, but will tell you all about it on that day.

      Ok, I am signing off and going back to relaxing!

      TTYL
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    • Day 2

      León - San Martin del Camino (24,5km)

      July 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Es war noch nicht 12 Uhr mittags, schon hatten wir das ursprüngliche Tagesziel Villadangos erreicht - die ersten 20km standen zu Buche. Obwohl die dortige Herberge einen schlichten aber netten Eindruck machte, entschieden wir uns zum Glück - dank Noras App - für den 4km weitgelegenen Ort San Martin del Camino. Hier haben wir sogar einen Swimmingpool!
      Der Camino verlief stets entlang der Autobahn N-120, wir liefen vorbei an Gewerbehallen und Tankstellen, eben an Orten, die man normalerweise nur im Zeitraffer aus dem Autofenster an sich vorbeiziehen sieht. Gerade deshalb hatte diese etwas unrühmliche Strecke seinen Reiz, es schärfte den Blick für das Unscheinbare.
      Wir sind fleissig am Stempel sammeln, unsere Pilgerausweise wurden heute durch drei weitere ergänzt. Noch bedeutend mehr war die Anzahl der "¡Buen Camino!", die uns auf unserem bisherigen Weg gewünscht wurden. Nun lassen wir den Tag in unserer kleinen idyllischen Albergue mit Pool ausklingen.
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    • Leon to San Martin Del Camino

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      We were going to stay in Villdangos, but we did not like the Hostel, so we bailed and walked another 5k to La Huella which seems brand spanking new. We checked in, had a great menu del día, put the clothes in to wash and then cooled our feet in the ice-cold pool.

      We now have under 300k to go which means we’ve done over 500k!
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    • Day 36

      Astorga

      September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      Wczoraj nie było siły na pisanie. Przeszliśmy około 27 km i jakiegoś powodu czuliśmy się dość wyczerpani, może więcej górek może więcej kamieni na drodze może więcej słońca w drugiej połowie dnia a może po prostu tak miało być , tak czy siak byliśmy padnięci.
      Początkowa trasa trzymała się koło drogi później odbiła w pola, na szczęście. Pierwsze miasto to Hospital de Orbigo. Troszkę powtórki z zeszłego roku ale żył tu rycerz, który jak dostał kosza od niewiasty to zakuł sobie szyję w żelazo i dopiero je zdjął jak wygrał 300 pojedynków z innymi rycerzami o podobnych standardach życiowych. Do dzisiaj ponoć można oglądać obroże w muzeum w Santiago.
      Oglądając różne kościoły można czasami zobaczyć pozostałości po rycerzach z St. John albo Hospitallero order. Jest to zakon,który chronił najpierw Jeruzalem a później również pielgrzymów na różnych drogach włącznie z Camino de Santiago. Są może bardziej znani na Malcie i Rhodos teraz. Ich kolory to biały i czerwony, troszkę podobny do Templariuszy ale inny. Do dzisiaj prężnie działa co prawda pod inną nazwą i ich Grand Master to John Dunlap z Kanady. Ich krzyże i imię są często widoczne na ambulansach i szpitalach. Przepraszam za powtórkę ale ciekawe.
      Przechodziliśmy również koło oazy z jedzeniem, która pojawia się w odpowiednim momencie. Świeże owoce, ser, chleb itd. Bierzesz co potrzeba i zostawiasz tyle ile uważasz. Bardzo fajni ludzie to prowadzą.
      Potem już długo nic, przed wejściem do Astorgi piękny krzyż i panorama na dolinę.
      Po dotarciu do naszego noclegu była tylko siła na gin z tonikiem bez obiadu.
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    • Day 35

      On the Road Again

      October 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      After a breezy 20km bus trip where I waved at the weary pilgrims walking along beside the road, I alighted in Villadangos and walked the final 5km to today's hostel, also along the road and a corn field. My feet and ankles twinged and groaned at even this minor attempt but we arrived in a mentally and physically stable condition, hopeful of achieving a 10km day tomorrow.

      While legend has it that pilgrims bodies (at least ones of average fitness) adjust to the walk by Burgos, almost everyone I saw today looked tired and sore and slow. The Camino is certainly an endurance challenge if that's what your looking for.

      In the distance are the slowly approaching mountains which will see the end of the Meseta and the beginning of Galicia. They are several days away but will be a constant companion this week.

      It was windy and cool walking today, though not unpleasant. I have been lucky so far with rain but this week there are many patches of rain forecast and I suspect I will get very wet more than once. In Leon I stocked up on a couple of warmer bits of clothing in preparation for the cooler, wetter days ahead.
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    • Day 21

      Etappe 17: Leon nach San Martin del C.

      October 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Heute startete ich meinen 25 Kilometer langen Step so gegen acht Uhr.
      Zuerst ging der Weg, wie ein Spießruntenlauf quer durch Leon.
      Der Camino wurde leider nicht ausreichend gekennzeichnet, aber dank meiner App und anderen Pilgern fanden wir dann doch alle den Weg aus der Stadt raus.
      Die restlichen 15 Kilometer zogen sich, meist an der Straße entlang, auf breiten Schotterwegen. Leider, bot dieser Abschnitt keinerlei Abwechslung.
      Nach dem einchecken in der Albergue Vieira, plante ich die nächste Etappe für morgen.
      Morgen führt mich der Weg weiter nach Astorga
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    • Day 27

      Day 26, Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

      June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Today life really felt like a bowl of cherries! Or a hatful - picked by our fellow pilgrims in the garden of our lovely albergue. On the Camino people are always saying it’s about the journey, not the destination. However, today it really was the destination which made this day so very special.
      We arrived at our albergue and were greeted with a cup of delicious herbal tea (the herbs grown in the garden). Lunch involved a lot of ladder-climbing in pursuit of the ripest cherries and was a social, happy affair. Fiona and I had bought gazpacho and were eating it when our fellow pilgrims joined us, shared our crisps and provided hatfuls of cherries.
      Later in the afternoon a fellow guest led an hour- long yoga session (with a little help from Fiona). And before dinner we were treated to a ‘sound bath’ held in honour of the founder of the albergue who died a year ago tomorrow. It’s hard to describe what this was - we lay on the floor while someone played Tibetan sound bowls. It may sound strange but it was deeply serene and meditative and felt like another significant spiritual moment on this pilgrimage. Afterwards, he offered to play the bowls on Fiona. I know this sounds stranger still, but a few of us volunteered to experience it too and it was really affecting to feel the music resonate through you.
      Next up was the most wonderful vegetarian meal in the garden polished off with cherry cake. One of the special things about this place is that it is a donativo - you only pay what you can afford for the food. The accommodation cost 13 euros. At the end of the meal the cook talked about the founder and how the three of them who worked with him had set up an association to continue his vision of looking after pilgrims after his death. She cried and was comforted by a lovely German woman called Ramona who had visited in 2016 and remembered him.

      Earlier in the day we had met Ramona, who we’d bumped into a couple of weeks ago and she said she’d had a couple of difficult days, had wanted to return to Albergue Verde today but they were full. When we arrived I asked if there might be a spare bed and they said they had one bed left so I sent her a WhatsApp and reserved it for her. She was delighted and very sweetly, said that we had been her Camino gift today. It was nothing at our end but very satisfying to have helped make someone happy.
      Another bonus today was being introduced to Nick, a vegan chef from Hove, who is helping out here. He shared a vegetarian map of the Camino which has set us trying to book up vegetarian places for the days we still need bookings for.
      Oh, and I have successfully walked without taping up my toes. I took the risk this morning of wearing a new pair of socks or, should I say, gloves for the feet.
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    • Day 2

      Day 2 Villares de Órbigo

      June 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Easy walk today - pretty flat. Sunny for most of the walk. Still many fields, but that is about to change. The hills start tomorrow.
      I love how easy it is to form relationships on the Camino. Although technology is still used, people seem more willing to put it aside and (gasp!) Talk! People also more willing to invite others to join them.
      One thing I do find different though, is that the churches are all locked. Entering these Holy places was one of my favorite activities 6 years ago when I was last on the Camino. It provided opportunities for reflection, prayer. I miss that this time.
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