Spain
Tardajos

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    • Day 25

      Hontanas

      September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Jesteśmy dzisiaj w przeuroczym miasteczku Hontanas. W ubiegłym roku tylko przez nie przechodziliśmy i bardzo nam się podobało. Tym razem zaplanowaliśmy tutaj nocleg. Ale rano dzieliło nas od niego aż 22 km, odległość, która wydawała nam się w ostatnim czasie nie do pokonania... Ale udało się! W swoim tempie z przystankiem jednym na śniadanie, drugim na piwko po 7.5 godzinach w trasie dotarliśmy do San Brigida Albergue. Okazało się, że miejsce to ma swoją własną spa z sauną turecką, basenem przeróżnymi biczami wodnymi. Niestety Tomek z racji kondycji swojego palucha nie mógł z tych rozkoszy skorzystać. Ja natomiast z przyjemnością tam się wybrałam. Potem był wspólny z pielgrzymami obiad, wspaniała kurczakowa paella. Tomek już teraz nabiera sił na jutro i znajduje się w stanie błogiego uśpienia, a ja po krótce streszczam dzisiejszy dzień... Tak naprawdę oprócz długiego wędrowania to był bardzo urozmaicony pogodowo, począwszy od pięknego słonecznego poranka, poprzez otaczające nas z każdej strony pomrukujace burze i minimalny deszcz. Mieliśmy dużo szczęścia bo burze nas ominęły, a po deszczu padającym przed nami pozostały tylko kałuże i błoto. Dodam jeszcze, że w trakcie schodzenia z kamienistego wzgórza, Tomek udzielał pomocy medycznej i opatrzył rany poturbowanej pani, którą zrzucił elektryczny rower do wypełnionego kamieniami rowu. Na szczęście skończyło się na otarciach i zadrapaniach, bez złamań, pani była bardzo wdzięczna Tomkowi za udzieloną jej pomoc. Pomału na trasie zaprzyjaźnieni z nami Pielgrzymi nazywają Tomka dr Tom.
      No i zapomniałam wspomnieć, że dzisiaj zaczęła się Meseta, jeden z ulubionych naszych odcinków na Camino....
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    • Day 26

      Hornillos de Camino (20.1km / 303.4km)

      May 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      The walk out of Burgos was confusing at times and we slept on the other side so had to walk through the centre. We left Burgos later than we should have on a warmish day after an obligatory “cafe solo” near the Cathedral. It’s not quite as peaceful as leaving a small village at sunrise but we were on our way.

      In the tiny village of Rabe de lid Calzados they had painted bright murals from bible scenes and there was a small church open, Ermita de Nuestra Senora de Monasterio. When Jane popped in her head the nun seemed very pleased as a lot of people just walk past. She was very sweet gave us each a “miraculous medal” and a blessing.

      From that point we enter the Maseta. The landscape changes from lush farmlands and hills to more sandy / desert like and flatter land and the heat intensifies.

      With this change in landscape We are entering stage 2 of the Camino (see yesterday photo) entering the mental phase.

      So the walking isn’t as tough on the body but the lack of variety and heat test the mental side. We had a taste of the heat in our after lunch stint from 1 to 3 pm which was enough to convince us to wake and leave early. The village we are staying in, Hornilla de Camino translates as “small stove of the Camino” - a warning indeed! Fortunately the weather forecast is for a cold snap - let’s hope it is accurate.

      After the usual admin we went to a local mass which is very unusual in such a small village. The priest obviously travels and arrived at 6:05 for 6pm mass! There were about 15 pilgrims and only 2 could speak Spanish which made things interesting. After mass the priest gathered us around the alter as we each read the pilgrims prayer in our own language and then sang a hymn in French! He then had a photo taken with us all and stamped our credentials.

      The Albergue had a communal dinner of salad, paella, red wine and yoghurt. We sat near a group of friendly young Italians and a Spaniard and then a British mom and daughter and a lady from the US Idaho. Good fun as usual with all the languages.
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    • Day 19

      Kansas, Spain

      September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      I'm not sure I've ever had a worse walk to a town than Hornillos today. The sun was brutal. Flies harassed us the whole way. I thought about dying with every step. But we made it. Welcome to the middle of nowhere Spain.Read more

    • Day 15

      Burgos > Hontanas

      October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      32K! Furthest day yet and well and truly felt like it 🥵 Would have simply crawled into a ditch and passed away if the sun was like last week but was nice and cool and successfully made it to the nicest albergue so far!!!Read more

    • Day 22

      Screwed Up, Better Attitude

      June 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      Long story short, I apologized to Sean this morning and asked his forgiveness for grumbling and complaining. He forgave me.

      And that set the stage for a remarkable day.

      I discovered that I had screwed up the schedule, missing a stage I guess. So we walked not knowing where we might end the day. We ended up cutting it short at lunchtime, with “only” 13 miles under our belts. We are in the village of Hornillos del Camino and have signed up for our first community dinner (salad, paella, dessert, and wine)! Looking forward to dinner with other pilgrims! Of course, Sean won’t eat the salad but I’m afraid he might demand my paella for his salad! Lol! (We DO love the paella!)

      The walk this morning was wonderful: not too hot, not too steep of a climb, sure footing, and wonderful conversation. Perfecto! Here’s a couple of pics from today, then I’m off to explore the church.

      (Sean’s eating beef stew and I’ve got spaghetti bolognese. That was lunch today in Hornillos del Camino.)
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    • Day 30

      I would walk 500 miles..

      October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      And I would walk 500 more.. Bloody rubbish. You'd have to be insane. 500km is bad enough. Passed the 500km mark. That's 500km until I get to Santiago.

      Spent some of the morning in the Museum of Human Evolution. There were some of the diggings from Atepuerca but they were all in the dark and no photos allowed. They have evidence of homo species in the area for 1.3 million years, not just 600,000 like I said the other day. The museum was very modern and well done. They had a mock up of Darwin's Beagle and it's journey. I didn't realise he'd sailed to Hobart. They had some interesting artefacts, particularly skulls of various homo species both much smaller and much larger than ours.

      After some lunch I headed out of Burgos and into the Meseta and walked 14km to Rabe de las Calzadas.
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    • Day 16

      Entering the Meseta

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      On the very edge of the meseta is a tiny, beautiful village. It has a lovely small chapel just as you leave town, and I’m so glad I decided to stop in.
      Inside were two elderly nuns. One asked my name and gave me a very loving blessing and a miracle medal to wear as a necklace. And because I paused there my timing was perfect for meeting up with a shepherd leading his flock from one field to another with the help of two dogs. He was very friendly and put up with several of us taking photos and video. This is exactly where the landscape suddenly opened into the wide open beauty of the meseta. I felt, deeply, as if I had been very warmly welcomed into this new stage of the Camino, one I have very much been looking forward to.

      Walking along in this beautiful, silent landscape, alone, this feeling only deepened. Then abruptly the land just fell away at my feet, dropping steeply and creating a stunning vista which I could not begin to capture on camera. As I dropped down the slope toward the waiting plain I can only say that I felt as if I were falling into the very lap of God. I can’t explain it, I can only report. It was a very happy day.
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    • Day 10

      Meseta

      July 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      My walk of the Meseta has begun. A cool wind pushes me forward, and the endless wheat fields seem to wave me towards my goal for the day, Hontanas. It is getting flatter and the only mental excitement of the day so far was a tractor trailer trying to run over pilgrims. A swift jump into the ditch saved us, though 😀.Read more

    • Day 6

      Camino Day 2 - Hontanas

      August 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      We were invited into the local convent for Vespers. There was only 6 mins still living there and all above 80 year old t seems. They were so nice and gave us each a Pilgrim blessing and a medallion to keep us safe on our journey. All in Spanish, but still quite moving. A great end to our first day on the Camino.
      An early start this morning, up at 6am thanks to the church bells next door. Breakfast was served at 6:30 and we were on the road by 7:15am.
      A much cooler day today with cloud cover most of the day.
      The Meseta lived up to its reputation of vast open fields and not much shade. Stunning vistas in every direction you look.
      Couldn't find anywhere open to buy food so we pushed on till the end. Covered 20km today and everyone feels fine.
      Lunch in Hontanas, then checked into our albergue which also offers a shared meal. Very modern, very nice.
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    • Day 20

      Rabé de las Calzadas

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      It is said that you will travel through stages of experiences while walking the Camino; the first physical, then mental and finally spiritual. From Peg’s and my experience so far, we are hoping for a quick end to the physical stage and will welcome the mental.

      My tendon is doing amazingly well. I think the lighter days and new shoes have really helped (oh, and the miracle gel). But things were more challenging for Peg this morning. She has had a cough and stuffy head for the last couple of days. Today she woke feeling miserable. We canceled our very hard to get reservation for the night and tried to extend our stay in Burgos. Saturday night in Burgos with a fall festival was very busy with tourists and pilgrims and town was sold out. After lots of frustrations looking for a place for the night we found one.... an 8 mile walk away. It was such a relief to find a spot, but the walk was long. That said it was still a beautiful day to walk with a light sprinkle at the end.

      We had a great chat in a little bar with Beto from Mexico who is friends with the owners of Casa Ramos restaurant in Chico. What a small world. And little rewards for the day, we are in a very modern hotel that upgraded us to a two level, two bedroom suite with a living room, kitchen and most importantly, a washing machine!! The second reward was that Peg tested negative for COVID which we are hearing is making the rounds through the pilgrim family. Tomorrow’s a new day.

      Buen Camino.
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