Spain
Terradillos de Templarios

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    • Day 15

      Tag 15: Carrión - Terradillos

      March 5 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      — Halfwaypoint —
      Was zeichnet den Camino aus? Das war für mich wohl die Frage des Tages, als ich die alte Römerstraße ‚Bordeaux-Astorga’ entlanglief.
      Der Weg zog sich durch die endlosen Weiten der Hochebene und dem Auge bot sich wenig Abwechslung.

      Ich dachte zurück an meine letzte Wanderung durch Dänemark und Deutschland. Was unterschied diese beiden Erlebnisse voneinander?
      So richtig greifen konnte ich es noch nicht, denn das eine habe ich bereits von Anfang bis Ende erlebt, beim anderen stecke ich noch mittendrin.
      Ein großer Unterschied sind aber auf jeden Fall die Landschaften und Städte.
      Es gibt andere Pflanzen zu sehen, andere Tiere, eine andere Kultur. Der Camino wird begleitet von einer über 1000 Jahre alten Geschichte, sodass sie für viele zum Protagonisten der Reise werden kann. Dennoch ist sie für mich nur Nebenschauplatz.
      Eine Sache unterscheidet meine beiden großen Wander-/Pilgererfahrungen nämlich voneinander: Das eine Mal war ich fast nur allein, nun bin ich fast nur unter Menschen.
      Obwohl ich mich heute aktiv aus dem gemeinsamen Wandern herausgezogen habe, sind es wohl die Begegnungen, die dem Camino seine ganz eigene Atmosphäre geben. Er lädt Menschen ein, nicht beim Oberflächlichen zu verweilen, sondern auch mal hinter die Fassade zu schauen.
      So wurden heute bei ausgiebigen Pausen in der Sonne unter anderem Fragen diskutiert, wie: „Wenn du 30 Jahre zurückschaust, was hättest du anders gemacht?“ „Warum bist du religiös?“ „Was braucht unsere Gesellschaft?“ „Wo ist mein verdammtes Sitzkissen abgeblieben?!“

      Alles in allem macht es großen Spaß, sich mit den anderen und ihren Sichtweisen auseinanderzusetzen und so würde ich als Zwischenfazit sagen, dass das sich immer wieder Begegnen, Austauschen und gemeinsame Erleben, den Camino zu einer gemeinschaftlichen und spirituellen Erfahrung macht, die es in der Form wahrscheinlich auch nur hier gibt.
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    • Day 20

      Sahagún

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      On paper, today was an easy day, only about 21 kilometers, but I was feeling it a little more. Still, a good day, and beautiful landscape. We are staying in an albergue run by the Marist Fathers, and we were greeted so warmly and have been so well cared for, including a Mass in English and Spanish offered by an Irish priest who also led a discussion for those who were interested in talking about our experience thus far. It was nice to have a chance to process!

      On the way today we also passed through the official halfway point, two statues which, if you walk between them, are said to convey all the benefits of the full Camino in case you aren’t able to make it all the way to Santiago. A little insurance policy!
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    • Day 22

      Terradillo de Los Templarios

      September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      The journey this morning brought another 26km to a grand total of 92km in 3 days, or for us Americans, that's 57 miles walked in three days.

      We were pretty tired today but here are a few vignettes of life in rural Spain. The dude hitting tennis balls in his Speedo is my hero. That's who I want to be when I'm 75.Read more

    • Day 16

      Terradillos de los Templares

      July 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 93 °F

      Terradillos is a tiny farming community that is a great example of combining the old with the new: structure that is 100s of years old with a modern tractor parked next to it; ancient building made of beams, straw cob, and brick, with a modern structure built onto it, made of plaster with a corrugated metal roof. This ancient gate is the entrance to an ancient church, ( okay, those two match😄); the albergue we are staying at is a mix of the old and the renovated, although we have yet to stay in a place with air conditioning. Our walk today, 26k, was comfortable, although the last 2k always seems to stretch on forever! We arrived at 11:30am, after just under 6 hours of walking, and beat the heat. The thermometer on the side of a building registered 48C- really hot! Shared dinner with Jason from Scotland, who spent time on the Highlander series set. He talked about the props, people walking down streets in full costume, and the authenticity of the set. You would have loved it, Cyndee! Such interesting people on the Camino! Love to you all and Buenos noches.🥱Read more

    • Day 19

      Day 19: Carrion a Terradillos

      May 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      This morning I managed to figure out how to set an alarm on my watch. Not that it mattered much, as pretty much my entire albergue had evacuated by 5.00 in the morning. I have to say, I awoke with a slightly grumpy disposition and I was feeling less than warm about my fellow humans. I walked out into the cold of the morning at 5.45, looking back for a small candlelight the nuns had promised to light as they prayed for the pilgrims. There it was, and onwards I went.

      The day ahead would be a challenge, with 17km of gravel sendas without any towns, stops or shade.

      As I left the town, I saw a small cafe open and ran inside. Delighted that something was open this early, I had a coffee and was out of the town by 6.00. I walked the first 10km alone, and then stopped when I spotted a caravan selling coffee (!) and I was delighted to have a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. It was here that I met my German walking companion for the day, whose name I can’t remember (it was very different phonetically to anything I know). We would walk the rest of the day together. I learned he works for Facebook in Frankfurt, used to rap when he was younger and writes fantasy novels. He also just bought his first apartment and was walking the Camino to clear his mind and start a new chapter.

      He was walking with a slight limp, and he was using a long stick as a pole. I slowed my pace significantly to walk with him, but I was glad for the company. The rest of the day was completely flat and across the barren meseta. My friend struggled, but I felt relatively ok. The later the day went on the hotter it got, and I was glad to reach my bed for the day. Sadly, he did not reserve ahead and was turned away. I feel bad about this as I write this, as I so admire his spontaneity - but I find myself booking ahead anyway. Am I missing the point slightly? I hope to meet him again on the route, as we had much in common! But, and I am once again alone and glad for the break.

      There is absolutely nothing to this two horse town, so I shower and do some laundry. I then run into Jim, who has made it all this way today - despite the blisters. The albergue is small and there is no shop in this town, so we sit down to lunch together. He is such easy company, and he offers to buy my lunch. I absolutely refuse, and I get his instead.

      I end up going for dinner with Jim too! There is nothing to do in this town. We talk about his career in the police force and his work as an independent investigator. I am already stuffed, but what is there to do!

      Today I covered 27km, tomorrow another 25km!

      See you in the morning!
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    • Day 21

      Carrion los Condes to Terradillos de los

      June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      A long quiet day - so I thought I’d write about some practicalities of the Camino.
      The day first: very long (or at least it felt like it), very hot after about 10am and very few services. Although the monastery hotel was great and very comfortable we had a strange moment when leaving as the cold water was running very warm in our room - not great for filling water bottles - so went downstairs to ask reception to fill them for us. But the water there was also warm - not just not cold but actually warm. Then filled from the pilgrim fuente outside the monastery and that was the same - something very weird going on with the water system.
      We had been warned that it would be 17km before we would be able to get anything - including water but in the end there was a brilliant, and very much appreciated by passing pilgrims, good truck with fab coffee and the best tomato toast.
      Then more coffee at a tiny town about 7km further on.
      It was a hard slog after that along a senda to Ledigos. Green juice at the hostel saved my life and it was great meeting up with Rachel again who is to be my companion on the lonely Via Romana for two days.
      Hostal is a bit grim but tolerable - I’ve been spoilt by my night at the monastery.
      Practicalities then: washing is done every day when we arrive using whatever is available. My stuff is almost entirely merino so I don’t really want to subject it to a community wash as I’m worried everything might shrink. Most people wash by hand in any soap that might be provided (none tonight), shower gel, shampoo or face wash. Seem to work okay most of the time. Then I dry stuff either outside - keeping a steely eye on the weather as we tend to have torrential downpours with thunder and lightning every afternoon from about 4. Alternatively I have an amazing travel clothes line which I can usually attach somewhere in the room and the stuff has always dried by the morning.
      Breakfast isn’t usually available by the time we need to leave (usually around 6.30) so we carry with us nuts and dried fruit and sometimes fresh fruit is we’ve found some, together with a slightly fermenting yoghurt that we’ve managed to find the previous day and not been able to refrigerate in our dorm room. This is, to be honest, a great breakfast and we’ve eaten in some wonderful places. It’s always a retired that the pack is a bit lighter afterwards.
      Will write about dinner tomorrow!!!
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    • Day 22

      Day 21, Terradillos to Bercianos

      June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      I’m feeling a bit under the weather this evening - I’m afraid I’ve got a stomach bug - so will make this a short one. This was the day we passed the Camino’s halfway point at Sahagun, having walked 250 miles. Our only stop here, apart from a coffee shop, was the monastery which issues a certificate to say you made it halfway. We had a little look round at the monastery which contained some beautiful and moorish-inspired murals. Much has been lost but what remains is exquisite.
      Today’s walk began around 6.45 in cool, misty conditions. Rachel walked with us and although she and Fiona kept stopping for me to catch up with them, the pace they set was faster than I was comfortable with. Yesterday Rachel had tried to teach us to use our poles to do Nordic walking but my lamentable lack of coordination made this a tall order for me. I am still trying!
      After Sahagun I said goodbye to Fiona and Rachel as they set off for the Roman road. I needn’t have worried about being lonely. Nick, a former serviceman, and Paul from Derry walked with me the final 15 kilometres. Tomorrow morning they are picking me up at 6.30am.
      I’m staying in a four bed dorm but there are only currently only two of us here. Pearl, my Canadian roommate and I had dinner together, along with some of her friends. I’m worried that I began to feel quite queasy during the meal and fear my stomach isn’t right.
      I really hope I will wake up feeling better tomorrow. I was utterly shattered when I got here this afternoon and could have slept for the night when I had a nap. Fingers crossed that a really good night’s sleep will cure me. We have done a run of long walks and I am looking forward to getting to Leon tomorrow evening where I will stay 3 nights and recuperate.
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    • Day 18

      Terradillos de los Templarios

      August 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Nach dem Einchecken treffe ich erst mal wieder auf ein bekanntes Gesicht. Alessio ein weiterer meiner Italiener. Er, Carla und Gianluca haben sich in ebenfalls vom Rest der Gruppe getrennt, da ihnen das Tempo zu schnell war und auch sie ihre Kräfte bis Santiago einteilen wollen. Mit den dreien hatte ich bisher relativ wenig zu tun, da die Kommunikation aufgrund quasi nicht existenter gemeinsamer Sprachen nur recht eingeschränkt möglich ist. Ich gehe erst mal duschen und relaxe dann mit einem Bier im Garten, als Lionel und Cecile gemeinsam auftauchen. Die beiden kennen sich also auch schon. Die Camino-Welt ist eben klein. Während Cecile sich erstmal hinlegt unterhalten Lionel und ich uns bei dem ein oder anderen Bier. Später stößt dann auch Cecile dazu und irgendwann beschließen wir auch zu dritt zu Abend zu essen.

      Wir haben ein wirklich tolles, offenes Gespräch und richtig viel Spaß beim Essen. Zwei absolute Herzensmenschen, denen ich hoffentlich noch das ein oder andere Mal begegnen werde.

      Wir lassen den Abend an der Bar. Mit dem ein oder anderen Bacharan ausklingen.
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    • Day 197

      Camino Frances 9 - Bergfest

      August 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Heute habe ich mit zwei anderen deutschen Pilgern das Bergfest gefeiert. Zum Start in Saint Jean Pied de Port lagen ca. 790 km bis Santiago vor uns (die Km-Angabe variiert je nach Informationsquelle etwas) und nun ist schon etwas mehr als die Hälfte geschafft. 😃💪
      Der gestrige Weg führte mich von Boadilla über die "Pilgerautobahn" nach Carrion de los Condes und das heutige Etappenziel war Terradillos de Templarios. Besonders das erste Stück heute war sehr eintönig, denn es ging 17 km lang nur geradeaus auf einem Feldweg.
      Jetzt sind es "nur noch" 370 km bis Santiago de Compostela 😊
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    • Day 130

      Terradillos

      July 9, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      July 9th

      We are halfway there! Exciting, but daunting knowing we have another 250 miles to go. 😳 Today was one of those days where we had some mental struggles. The walking forever on a straight road/path was hard. The end seemed to never be in sight.

      But...we loved the food truck that showed up just when we needed it, AND our Italian friends reappeared after not seeing them since the 3rd day of our walk. They don’t speak English and we don’t speak Italian, but somehow we communicate 🙂. One of the guys calls Alan “Washington” and I am Barbara. No one understands “Barb” as my name, but when I say ”Barbara”, they nod, smile, and understand.🙂 We spent our first night with them and our 3rd, and when you spend time with people on this journey, they become special to you...quickly. So nice to see them again!

      We are staying in Terradillos tonight and happy to be in a room with just two beds for us...felt like we won the lottery when the woman showed us where we would be. 😀 I’m hoping for more sleep tonight, because I was in a room full of snorers last night.

      Another good moment was walking into Ledigos ( a couple miles before our destination) and being able to order a pizza that was SO good. It was such a simple pleasure when we were tired and hungry.

      Because today was one of those days where I just wanted to get to our albergue, I didn’t really take many pictures at all...a few video snippets, but not much else, and Alan didn’t take a single one...sorry ☺️
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    Terradillos de Templarios, 34349

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