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    • TravelerCamino Portugese
      111
      Day 9

      A Little Rain Must Fall

      June 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      We are leaving at our earliest time yet, pre dawn as we leave the still silent Auberge. Trying to "outrun" the promised rain. Which had been forecast daily but not yet materialised. It's fresh, and clear in this early hushed time, and we are rewarded with a brilliant sunrise all the more special for being unexpected.

      We're taking a deviation from the more common trail, to follow a riverside path called the Ecovia. Its a pedestrian and bike path that parallels the River Minho. It promises to be prettier, and more importantly today, flatter, than the trail that follows the hillside villages. Brad is still hobbling a bit with pretty bad shin splints from the "lost" day, so we'll try to coast this 20km day.

      The path is virtually deserted at this hour, as we wind steadily along. A brief rain squall passes, it's intense, but short. The occasional dog walker starts to arrive, a fisher or two, one furiously marching guy. Brad is told that the fishing is no good, which is hard to believe as we can hear some pretty loud splashes and see some jumps!

      Arriving at Vila Nova de Cerveira, we stop at a cafe in the appealing town square. I spot a Camino distance marker - we've come a long way! - a lovely deep green tiled building, very charming and characteristic of Portuguese tiled structures. And a memorial monument to the 1809 date that the villagers chased the invading French away.

      On the way out of town we stop at the big grocery Continente, and get breakfast yoghurt, bun, fruit for about 1.50. So affordable. Even the sausages that we inexplicably added, and enjoyed with our breakfast just past the first bridge to Spain.

      The day ticks along steadily and mostly easily. We're getting tired though, enough to be irritated at the cyclists that pass us narrowly, insisting on riding in strict formation without breaking cadre. Rude.

      Luckily, we are very nearly at our nights accomodation, booked this morning at the cafe. We are at Alvorada Medieval, where Ana and Pedro welcome us. This is their home and hostel, and their warmth and generosity shine through it in all ways. We meet little Porto, a chihuahua that some Dutch pilgrims had rescued from a car hit and run a few days ago. The Dutch are adopting him, but Pedro and Ana are letting him recuperate from surgery here before Pedro drives him to his new family later.

      We arrived in the nick of time, an absolutely torrential downpour and rumbling thunderstorm begins as we complete check in

      While I tidy up, Brad looks around the neighborhood a bit. Not surprisingly he finds a local bar. Perhaps a bit more surprising, he meets a local who lived in new Brunswick for 13 years. Tall tales were told, I'm sure.

      At 7 is the pilgrims dinner, a shared table with hosts and guests that is a traditional here. We have with us tonight Christopher from Germany. He is doing 30 km days, unlikely we'll meet him again!Ana is passionate about the history of this spot and of the Camino. She passed here on her first Camino and felt drawn magnetically to a ruin which became this alberge. They gave up their professional lives in Lisbon to move here. The name reflects her philosophy, Alvorada is the beginning of the day, a new beginning, maybe a new life. With medieval a reference to the shared past we all have.

      Ana says life is like the Camino, sometimes you think they have not marked the way clearly enough, but it is you that is lost. When you realize this, you must go back to where you got lost, and find your way again.

      I think I'll be reflecting on Ana's wisdom for a long time.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      Day 14

      The Road Less Travelled… Day 11

      April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Woke up: Pilgrim Rest, Vila do Cerveira
      Destination: Almoreda Medeavel, Pedro Sao Torres

      Early breakfast with our lil crew. Just coffee for me but it was nice and cosy.

      I recommended casa do sardao to Dan. It was then he asked if I knew a Bulgarian girl, called Lora. Apparently he’d seen her yesterday, and of course she was raving about it. Love the Camino and its synchronicity.

      Speaking of Julie is back on the Camino. She left me a voice note to say she’s started again, and how she was telling someone on the coastal path about her feet and hospital, and they responded whether it was Lisa that took you? It just happened to be the couple I helped with the train the day before.

      I left the Albergue last. Quite common for me. I’m waking up the earliest I have in years and I’m still the latest out the door. I prefer it though. Less danger of packing and forgetting something.

      I wandered into town. Found a cheap cafe for breakfast, my usual pasta de natal and espresso. And wrote my postcards. I then took them to the post office on my way out of town.

      I spotted a cemetery on the way out which I wandered a while. Still amazed by the intricacy and individuality of all, and how well maintained they all are.

      I then saw the road bridge, which links to Spain, just 300m away. So decided to have a quick cheeky step over into Spain. I set up my phone to take a lil video and when no one was watching I did a lil celebrating dance, but a car was coming behind me a honked and cheered me on, waving. I thanked them, and then perhaps, because of the kindness in strangers ‘seeing’ and understanding my achievement and choosing to celebrate it when I’m here alone, just made me cry.

      It was quite the rollercoaster of emotions.

      From this I collected myself and chose to do what Lora recommended and not take the road route, but river route. And I’m so glad she did. It was such a lovely stretch. I stopped for a juice by the river and saw so many fish and a huuggge dragonfly.

      I passed what seems liked hundreds of beautiful wild meadows. Old men chatting and fishing stopped to wish me Bom Camino. As well as a cyclist to tell me to ‘stay strong’. I then came made my way back to the official Camino, to walk into Pedro Sao de Torres.

      Over a medieval bridge, and Roman aqueduct.

      So taking the road less travelled really is more beautiful sometime.

      Until I arrived at the albergue. I knew I wanted to stay here after reading the reviews of how well the hosts know the Camino and look after pilgrims. As the Camino is as much about the people and places as the walking for me, this was on my must stay Camino bucket list. And I’m so glad I did.

      I shared with Anna, the host, why I was here. And she said despite doing the Camino so many times she’s never thought to do it ‘with’ her mum as she never saw the albergue they’ve created.

      Anna told me about how the place sits on the old Roman road the pilgrims would have taken as one of the most direct route. And how the Portuguese coastal has been authenticated as an original pilgrim route.

      And how the litoral on from Caminha is a tourist route created in and after Covid. The same for the spiritual variant. It’s nothing to do with the Camino, historically it is more to do with the Napoleonic Wars.

      This changed things for me. As much as it’s my Camino, and it can be what I need it to be. I love the idea of literally walking history and for the spiritual significance I want to stay as close to the traditional Camino going forward. So, as of now, I am going to stay as close to the central route back as possible.

      Anna also went on to tell me where to find the Knights Templar marks at Santiago and along the way to mark the rebirth and transformation. And for them their symbol for the Albergue is a rooster, signifying a new Dawn for all pilgrims arriving and then leaving their place.

      This made me cry, also. Because I’m an emotional mess apparently.

      The evening finished with a pilgrim meal for all. Unfortunately I couldn’t participate as much as I’d of liked because most of the residents were German. But I still chatted, made them laugh with some of my stories so far as well as getting excited when I understood Vai Vassa as Holy Water of all things.

      And then an evening of catching up on my journal.

      Body Check: just super knotty hair!!!

      Highlights/Little things:
      O Breakfast by Candlelight
      O A cold pool to soak my muscles in      Read more

    • El Camino
      Day 26

      Day 23/12 V.P.Ancora to V.N.Cerveira

      May 26, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Well I'm a walking down down the road
      Tryna lighten my load
      I got seven kilos on my spine
      Four are clothes for wearing
      Two is food for sharing
      One I should have left behind.

      (Sorry Eagles fans, but sometimes the caminho gives you far too much time to kill.)

      Today we set out at 6:50 a.m. under sunny skies with a cool temperature of 12 degrees C. Initially, our goal was to reach Vila Nova de Cerveira after walking 24.9 kms and climbing 523 meters.

      Happily, we discovered an alternate route that runs right along the coast, which allowed us to arrive in Vila Nova de Cerveira in only 22.2 kms with only 73 meters climbed.

      The shortcut was especially appreciated after the difficult and steep climbs we undertook yesterday.

      Amazingly, the majority of today's walk was on a soft bike/jogging track that ran for at least fifteen kms alongside the river that serves as the border between Spain and Portugal. So close were we to Spain, at times my phone was showing the time for the Spanish time zone.

      We stopped for coffee at the 8.9 km mark in Camhina in a town square more reminiscent of Italy than Portugal.

      Our next stop was a very short bathroom break at 16 kms. The path was so smooth and we all felt so energetic, we powered straight through to lunch at our destination in Vila Nova de Cerveira.

      After a shower, we sat down for a round of pre-dinner Port and tonic before heading out for a very delicious dinner of various tapas.

      Oh yeah, Spain is just around the corner.

      Distance walked since Lisbon: approx. 500 kms.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      Day 13

      Quiet - Day 10

      April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Woke Up : Caminha
      Destination : Vila do Cerveria

      Another quiet and short day today. A bit of a blip of time confusion. My phone had sync’nd with Spanish time, which meant me rushing out of the hostel.

      However I was a whole hour earlier. As the albergue was quite far from the Camino, I decided to take the train back to it. However again I was whole hour early for it. It meant I got to help a retired pilgrim couple, from New Hampshire, navigate the train. They were visiting Valenca and Tui for the day - before heading back to Caminha to take the litoral path.

      I surprised a young couple by asking them a question on the train! (Who would later wave to me, when passing me in a cafe).

      Of course I choose another albergue way up a hill out of town. But the town was pretty. And wandered a little before going up.

      People from the houses waved to me and of shouted ‘Bom Camino’. The albergue, Pilgrim Rest, was small but beautiful with a stunning garden, wind chimes, fruit trees and an allotment. Of which the food for the evening would be picked from.

      Michaela, knowing I couldn’t have much gluten before arriving, had prepared a delicious broccoli and cheese quinoa dish, salad and sorbet for the meal.

      There was only a handful of other pilgrims. 2 retired guys, including Baz. From Australia. He was taking his time getting to Santiago, and then Finisterre, to throw a rock for his little girl who died at 4 months but would be 21 this month.

      Dan from Brazil, then NY, who’d quit his finance career against advice of family and friends and has now walked the French Way, and is continuing on to Porto or Lisbon. He hasn’t decided yet.

      And then a retired woman, Christine, who came today to start the Camino tomorrow.

      After tea, I watched the sunset and listened to the wind chimes. I chatted a little more to Baz about his backstory and life as is the way on the Camino. And then we were all tucked up in Bed by 9 ready for an early checkout of 8am.

      Body Check: still got my sunburnt socks! No hope of blending this apparently to my other skin tone. Despite a week in shorts! Oh well. Slight arch pain. No more blisters for now.

      Little things/highlights:
      O Acting like kids as grown adults getting ready for bed.
      O Eating fresh food outside.      Read more

    • Simon and Jackie AnnalsSpain & Portugal Pilgrimage
      Day 15

      Day 15 - Border Town Tui

      June 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      We were awoken at 3.15am by a lot of car door opening & closing noise. It sounded like someone was ransacking our car, but we didn’t have the inclination to get out of bed to investigate. It transpired to be a Spanish couple who had just arrived & had set their small tent up at that unearthly hour.

      We got up at 8.30am & slowly but surely dismantled our camp. Apart from coffee & I had some weetabix we had nothing else for breakfast. With everything packed away & after a shower we departed for the the next stage of our trip.

      It was a two and a half hour leisurely drive on a non toll route to Tui, a Spanish town on the border with Portugal. Along our journey we passed a municipality of 4710 inhabitants, with the rather unfortunate name of Cuntis. We didn’t stop there for lunch.

      As we neared Tui, Jackie contacted the owner of the accommodation we were staying at & asked if we could check in straight away. She agreed, so I asked Jackie to put the address in the SatNav. Big mistake!!! We ended up in the middle of nowhere having driven through a forest on very narrow windy roads.

      I had to take charge & we headed back in the right direction towards the outskirts of Tui & met our lovely Spanish landlady. She left us with the keys to our apartment & then we drove into Tui.

      We found a large free car park close to the Tui Cathedral, which was the main reason for visiting. The cathedral was open, but not for the audio guided tour that I was hoping to do. It was closed on a Sunday. We entered the cathedral & found that there was just a small roped off area to prevent us walking around. I immediately took a photo, then saw a sign of a camera with a red line through it & underneath it the words ‘No Tourist Visitors’. A very welcoming greeting into god’s house. I saw a chapel off to the side with a sign on ‘For prayer only’. We went in, Jackie prayed whilst I pretended to. I don’t remember praying since I was 13 years old & asking god to let me win my Bosham Cygnets football match that afternoon!!!

      We then wandered aimlessly through the old town of Tui. There was not one church that was open to enter, but a couple, notably Capilla de San Telmo, did let you open the doors & take a photo through the iron bars. Our aimless wandering took us down to the Rio Minho river that is the border between Spain & Portugal. We walked the kilometre long footpath that followed the Rio Minho along it’s banks to the Ponte Internacional Tui-Valencia (International Bridge).

      We were dehydrated sweating messes when we arrived at the iron bridge. We took some photos & headed back into the old town & found a little locals bar for some much needed refreshments. We both ordered the combo meal & drink for just €9.50. We both had a large beer & I ordered the chicken fillet, whilst Jackie ordered the calamari. Both came with chips and salad. Another beer and a couple of coffees did the trick.

      Point of note: we have had numerous cups of coffee on this trip & every single one has been piping hot & excellent.

      On the way home. we found a Gadis Hiper store that was open on a Sunday. We had a field day, buying a wooden spoon, fruit, cereal & custard tarts. No alcohol.

      Back home it was a cold shower & then we sat on our veranda & did our travel planning and admin.

      Song of the Day : Border Song by Elton John.
      (Who was headlining at Glastonbury probably at the time of writing).      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Santiago Portugese
      Day 11

      Flat: Lanhelas to Vila Nova de Cervina

      May 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      My return to walking isn’t actually on the official Camino. That walk is an up-and-down adventure through forests and towns. I opt for the alternative route along the Eco Via Beirada do Rio Lanhelas. (Rivers are as ubiquitous and French fries and churches here.) The eco trail is flat, and has a water view. I’m in.

      It’s a short, 6.5 miles to Vila Nova de Cervina. I am comfortably alone the entire way. I see a few strollers and a cyclist whizzes past, but no other pilgrims. It’s nice. I have my earbuds, but don’t really need the distraction of music. The magpies and blackbirds are music enough.

      The red walking substrate, whatever it is, is soft on my poor feet. I walk with the river on my left and wild meadows and stands of trees on my right. Every once in a while, the neat, green rows of a small farm show up. I wonder how they get tractors down here.

      I roll into Vila Nova de Cervina a little past noon. There’s a huge park here along the river. It has a tiny botanical garden, play areas, and some sort of sports field I can only guess is disc golf. There’s also an aquarium featuring river flora and fauna. My fishing friends would enjoy seeing all the same species as we have back home - rainbow trout, smelt, carp. There are also a couple of Godzilla goldfish with a warning to keep your little Nemo fish pets out of the wild. A display of a fishing outfit made of reeds looks just like the traditional one I saw at the textiles museum. It would make a good costume for a horror story villain.

      I take an obligatory photo of the church (St. Cipriano’s), with its anachronistic modern art sculpture in the garden, then head uphill, for the first time, to my hostel. I enjoy my first pilgrims’ meal, which is basically a cheap communal dinner. It’s vegetarian spaghetti and salad. Pasta is the bomb when you’ve been walking a while.

      I opt for a private room over one with 4 bunk beds. I really don’t need to be THAT much of pilgrim. Also, I snore.

      This is an excuse. I do not care.      Read more

    • Spaziergänge mit HildeLinkerhand ist immer Wasser
      Day 33

      Letzter Halt am Grenzfluss

      January 10 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Es regnet auch noch am Morgen und wir werden ziemlich nass, während sich auf den Wiesen schon kleine Seen bilden. Das Wasser jagt den Berg hinab auf der Straße, und die Büsche voller Blumen sind tropfnass.

      Aber wir haben eine ruhige Nacht, einen guten Schlaf, und einen entspannten Morgen zusammen. Wie das eigentlich immer im blauen Bus ist, wenn ich keine Termine und Verpflichtungen habe.

      Kurz nachdem wir aufgebrochen sind, queren wir den Grenzfluss nach Portugal.      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerCamino Portugues 2022
      Day 11

      Caminha - Vila Nova de Cerveira

      June 9, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Unsere Reise startete bei blauem Himmel und angenehm kühlen Temperaturen. Zuerst führte uns der Weg durch die Altstadt von Caminha zu der Stelle, wo die Fähre den Rio Minho in rund 5 min. quert und die Passagiere, die z.B den Küstenweg weitergehen wollen, auf spanischen Boden entlässt. Der neue alternative Camino führt weitgehend dem tiefblauen Rio Minho entlang Richtung Valença an der spanischen Grenze. Zwischendurch trafen wir auf gepflegte Häuschen, aber auch auf heruntergekommene Herrenhäuser, die an bester Lage vor sich hin gammeln. Grundsätzlich fiel uns auf, dass die Menschen in dieser Gegend eher zu den besser Verdienenden zu gehören schienen. Als wir schliesslich am Ende unserer Tagesetappe in Vilanova de Cerveira anlangten, stellten wir fest, dass die Gemeinde über eine moderne, hochwertige Infrastruktur verfügt, angefangen von einem schönen Sportzentrum über einen vielseitigen Kinderspielplatz mit originellen Wasserspielen sowie allerlei Kunstwerke und beeindruckenden Hausmalereien, die über die ganze Stadt verteilt waren.
      In unserer heutigen Unterkunft, der örtlichen Jugendherberge, fand ein Großteil der Pilger zur Übernachtung zusammen.
      An der Rezeption empfahlen sie uns für das Abendessen zwei nahe gelegene Restaurants. Das erste entsprach uns sehr und so setzen wir uns zu Tisch. Wir bestellten unter anderem eine portugiesische Spezialität, den Bacalao-Fisch, der eigentlich ein eingesalzener Kabeljau ist. Der Fisch wird aus Konservierungsgründen in dicke Salzlake eingelegt, so dass er schließlich im Verkauf wie ein hartes weisses Brett daherkommt. Wenn man ihn zubereiten will, muss man ihn vorgängig lange wässern. Satt und zufrieden kehrten wir schliesslich wieder in die Jugendherberge zurück.      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerNordspanien, Portugal
      Day 12

      Cabo de Finisterre

      February 11 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Also wenn wir schon mal hier sind, fahren wir auch bei nach dem Frühstück einsetzendem Regen noch zum Faro de Finisterre. Pilgerer hätten sich wahrscheinlich darüber amüsiert, dass ich mich noch mit dem Jakobswegstein fotografieren lasse. Für Menschen im Mittelalter war hier am westlichsten Teil des spanischen Festlands das "Ende der Welt". Heute verbrennen Pilgerer hier ihre Wandersocken oder legen ihre Wanderschuhe ab.
      Dann geht es Richtung Portugal, zunächst an der Küste entlang.      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerCamino Portuguese 2022
      Day 2

      Chamosinhos Bridge

      October 19, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

      Chamosinhos Bridge or Ponte Medieval de Chamosinhos
      Roman/medieval bridge, over the river Torto, was part of the old Roman road “Per Loca Marítima” that went up the left bank of the river Minho and passed this bridge. In the middle of the bridge is the cross, with the figure of the Crucified Christ.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Tomiño, Tomino

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