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Triacastela

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    • Julie RosenthalCamino Frances 2023
      1
      11

      Day 37 - O Cebreiro to Fillobal - 17km

      October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      I started the day by coming out at 7:00am to see the stars. Cassiopeia was right in front of me. I don’t think many of you know the significance of Cassiopeia for Jörg and I so I will fill you in now.

      About a month after we met in Nashville, Jörg and I travelled together for a week in my car visiting the national parks of southern Utah including Zion, Arches, Canyonlands, etc. We ended the week visiting the Grand Canyon together. Well, the first day of the trip, we were in Zion. I actually had a tent so we camped together. I forget at what point in the evening (I think in the middle of the night), I pointed out to Jörg the constellation Cassiopeia (it is the W shape set of stars). It is the only one I know (well except for the Big Dipper) and learned it from the movie “The sure thing” in the 80s.

      Well, throughout the week, we would always look to the sky in the evening and I would point it out. On the last night we were together before he left to go home to Germany, we were up at 4am and we both went out of the motel room to look outside for it but it was cloudy. Throughout the years we joked about it whenever we had a chance to look at the stars. I feel he is now in those stars watching over me.

      Today was lovely. Coming downhill from O Cebreiro is nothing like coming down from Cruz de Ferro. It is quite pleasant, the path is mostly smooth but steep in some places. I hiked the day with Jenna. She is off to Triacastela (another 3.7km) today so we separated and will probably see each other again in Santiago.

      The town I am in is still on the mountain, about 2/3rds of the way down. I have a private room today and it is beautiful. I am sitting in my room, waiting for my laundry to dry, then I will venture out and just sit and enjoy the view for the rest of the day. My friends Nadine and Jacqueline are here (from Belgium) so I am sure we will have a nice visit.

      TTYL      Read more

    • TravelerJacqueline is Walking 2022
      111
      Day 38

      O’Cebreiro - Fillobal in the mountains

      May 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Was für Aussicht, unfassbar schön. Ich wollte vor der Pilgrims Messe was essen, Pulpo, Salat und 1 Glas Weißwein. Ich habe noch nie so eine bewegende und schöne Messe erlebt, in der ältesten erhaltenen Kirche am Camino Frances, Santa Maria a Real do Camino. Der Aufstieg war wirklich anstrengend, aber allein die Aussicht und der schöne, unvergessliche Gottesdienst in der Pilgerkirche waren es mehr als wert. Am Ende des Gottesdienstes versammelten sich alle Pilger und bildeten einen Kreis um den Altar. In 8 Sprachen wurde der Pilgersegen erteilt und wir erhielten alle einen Stein mit einem gelben Pfeil darauf. Unvergesslich schön und rührend, der Padre übte mit uns : Ultreia et Suseia!
      Und fügte hinzu , nimmt alle die Liebe im Herzen mit nach Hause. So viel Wärme, unvergesslich.
      Am nächsten Morgen mache ich noch diese wundervolle Fotos bevor wir uns auf dem Weg machen nach Fillobal und auf einmal stand sie vor dem Café, Yejin aus Korea. Nach ca 400 Kilometer war das Wiedersehen toll! Caminofamily🥰      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerWalking the Camino
      11
      Day 26

      Triacastela

      July 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      We reached Galicia today, and arrived in Triacastela, after 26k, at about 12:30. We started our trek at 5:30am, walking straight uphill, for the first 5k, our headlamps lighting our path. Walking in the dark is magical. The stars seem so close, as the full moon that guided our walk two weeks ago, has now decreased to a sliver. The tiny droplets that appeared in the beam of my headlamp, turned into a fog bank, and hid the view below the mountains when we reached the top. Walking in the dark is silent, allowing for things to emerge and transform. It also presents surprises, like the dog who was not sure that he liked me walking by his barn in the dark. After lots of barking, and a momentary standoff, he allowed us to continue on our way. As the sunlight emerged over the mountain range, we shared a cup of coffee and made a toast to the new day, and our last Tuesday, walking the Camino.
      Triacastela , our destination, is a small farming community, with gardens and cattle. The photos show some of the sites, including the cows who don't follow street signs, and the bathroom sign that gives explicit instructions, in case you need them.😂 Love to you all!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Francés 2022
      Day 28

      Towards Triacastela

      August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      More beautiful views while still high, before descending to Triacastela.
      The descent was long but not too steep. The day was warmer than yesterday.
      I walked at my own slow pace, at times coinciding with Jan and Klaus or Theresa and Nelly.Read more

    • TravelerCamino Francés 2022
      Day 28

      Decision point

      August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Leaving Triacastela there was another choice of route, but my mind was already made up.
      The other day at Pieros, Jerry, an older Irish man who has done the Camino a few times, spoke very highly of the monastery at Samos, and made me want to see it. The route is 7k longer but I have the time, so it was an easy choice.
      Nelly took the other option and later said she regretted it because it was hard (a lot of up and down) and ended up being longer for the day, as she went all the way to Sarria.      Read more

    • Camino
      Day 37

      Triacastela

      October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Dzisiaj mocno przemysliwany dzień, w którym musieliśmy przejść najtrudniejszą górę na Camino. Najpierw przez pół dnia podejście potem trochę płaskiego i do wieczora zejście. Dzięki poradzie Piotrusia rozmowa z górą była owocna, mówiła kiedy stanąć, gdzie wypić piwo i generalnie wyciszała emocje związane z wysiłkiem. Pogoda była piękna . Widoki cud, chodziliśmy ponad chmurami czasami, głębokie wspaniałe perspektywy, których nie można oddać zdjęciem niestety. Krajobraz w ogole bardzo się zmienił, zrobiło się bardzo zielono i czasami bardzo tajemniczo. Mijane wioski z zupełnie inni architekturą, okrągłe domki pokryte słomą. W niektórych miejscach część mieszkalną znajdowała się u góry a na dole trzymano zwierzęta. Z ciekawostek to mały kościółek w Lamos pamiętający czasy rycerzy maltańskich, bo do nich należał i drugi kościół w O Cebrerio w którym zdarzył się cud przemienienia podczas Eucharystii. Pamiątkowe naczynia mszalne znajdują się w bocznej nawie.
      Dzisiejszy dzień był chyba najładniejszym odcinkiem górskim. Oficjalnie weszliśmy do Galicji, mówią tu troszkę inaczej, ale nam to nie robi różnicy bo i tak nic nie rozumiemy. Zabudowania w Galicji wydają nam się szaro bure, mnóstwo odcieni szarości... Widzieliśmy po drodze więcej bydła niż ludzi. Z ciekawych ludzi widzieliśmy panią ze siekierą. Dużo kup krowich na ulicach, dzięki którym uprawiamy akrobacje krokowe w ich omijaniu. Kuchnia Galicyjskia okazuje się bardzo smaczna. Podają na przykład pyszna ośmiornicę i inne morskie stwory. Oprócz tego, że mają doskonałe jedzenie znają się też na czarownicach, ponoć. Po obiedzie już tylko spanko, tym bardziej, że pobliski sklep spożywczy zamknął się nam przed nosem... Na szczęście kranówka w Hiszpanii jest bezpieczna i smaczna to picia.      Read more

    • TravelerAdventure on Camino Francis
      111
      Day 40

      O’Cebreiro and Triacastela

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Day 35 O’Cebreiero and day 36 Triacastela - Left Villafranca early for the 18 mile walk to O’Cebreiro. The last 10 kms of the route was one of the steepest, second only to the climb over the Pyrenees at the beginning of the Camino, but there were some stunning views along the Varcace valley that could not be captured by camera - although I tried. The valley is steep and narrow and heavily wooded with pine and chestnut so quite shady. Some of it reminded me of walks in Uttrakhand. Half way up the climb I stopped at a cute (and very welcome) restaurant for a fabulous meal and made the mistake of having a glass beer - bad choice because I still had a significant climb! Ran into the Aussies when I was at the tail end of the climb. Passed a pleasant half hour chatting while herds of cows passed right behind us. And then on to destination for the night.
      O’Cebreiero is a very cute town that apparently used to be a dairy village and is now a tourist hotspot. Ran into my friend from Vermont - Ginny, and had dinner with her. Somewhere along the way she had taken a bus to catch up. I also ran into Josh who has moved to Burgos from Florida. His wife had done the Camino several years ago and loved it so much that she decided to move here. She teaches English at a local primary school.
      Today, day 36, was similar with hilly terrain, there were some steep climbs and descents with a final steep descent into Triacastela. I walked for a while with the Aussies and Dr Steve and had dinner with a bunch of friends. It’s a small town and all the pilgrims had gathered outside this one restaurant that had seating all along the road.
      Tomorrow I’ll be in Sarria - from there it’s just 100 kms to Santiago!!      Read more

    • Camino de Santiago (Frances)
      112
      Day 47

      Day 36-Triacastela

      October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

      Not much to write about today. There was supposed to be rain starting at 3pm which would give us plenty of time to complete today's walk. Instead there was a torrential downpour with hurricane force winds shortly after we started walking.

      We played a game today called "dodge the cow patties". At one point it was no use so now our shoes smell like cow 💩. They're not coming home with us.

      We stopped a couple times for nourishment and jogged the last mile downhill during a break from the wind. It was a 13 mile walk.

      We feel pretty good now after a hot shower and a hot meal. We have a very short day tomorrow plus a rest day.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago - Frances
      11
      Day 36

      Triacastela

      October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Today started off like most days with a predawn wake-up trying to be really quiet while getting our stuff together in a dark room of eight sleeping people, using a red headlight to pack. And then out the door which locks behind you. There was only one small difference today, it was raining outside the locking door so no turning back once the door shut behind us.

      Walking in the rain, in the dark, by headlight is a different experience. You have a bit of tunnel vision with your rain hood drawn tight, and the light dancing off the rain. We had about an hour until we could see color in the sky and a very steep, slick climb to make. At the top of the hill a bar was open serving up great coffee and a fire burning in the fireplace. It was busy with pilgrims looking to warm up and dry out. While we joined the crowd, the sky brightened and the rain lighten up and we spent the next few hours walking through another Hallmark card wonderland. After our big climb yesterday, most of today was downhill and an easy stroll with beauty everywhere. I thought yesterday was amazing but today topped it!

      We also saw more locals today. In the Meseta region you would walk through a village and not see a single person. Since being in Galicia we are seeing more people and much more activity. In one village, we had an older lady brave the rain to share pancakes, that she sprinkled with sugar, with pilgrims as they walked past her house. It was a very touching moment and just made the day more special.

      About 4 kilometers from the village we are staying in, we stopped for lentil soup and coffee and waited for a downpour of rain to past. We played a few hands of cards and then made a push to the end with more mind blowing scenery. Tomorrow we are off to Sarria and will be getting close to the last 100 kilometers of our walk into Santiago.

      6 days left of walking this Camino….      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      2
      Day 20

      Triacastela

      August 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      I woke up this morning feeling a little glum from yesterday’s loneliness. I felt nervous when I heard rain in the gutters outside and worried about a repeat of the heavy rain in the Pyrenees. I tried to see if the rain would let up while I ate breakfast but eventually set out. Only a few paces into the walk, I overlapped with a nice Spanish man. We chatted and had a similar walking pace, so we ended up walking together for most of the morning. I was grateful for his company, especially on a rainy walking day when there’s not much to look at but mist.

      Eventually I separated from the Spanish man because I wanted to stop at a cafe to change my socks. I walked alone for a bit and then stopped again when it started to rain more heavily. I ran into two Australians I had lunch with a few days ago and joined them for the final stretch. By the time I arrived in Triacastela the rain had stopped and I was grateful for the company that helped buoy me through a longer walking day.

      I’m looking forward to my plans for tomorrow. I’m going to take an alternate Camino route that passes through Samos. Samos has an active monastery founded in the 6th century. And, if the monastery isn’t that cool, there’s also a cypress tree nearby that is 1,000 years old! I’m excited to visit.      Read more

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