Spain
Zubiri

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    • Day 8

      Zubiri

      September 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

      Zrobiliśmy dzisiaj na razie najdłuższy odcinek i poszło całkiem nieźle. Były dwa wzniesienia które nie pozwalały kompletnie zapomnieć Pirenejów. Pojawiły się nowe elementy szlaku: ruchome skałki i skalne koleiny, męczące tym razem kostki i kolana. I do tego podwyższona temperatura do 34-36 stopni

      Jest bardzo pięknie i pomału opuszczają nas wszystkie uciążliwe emocje, strachy i zostaje pomału tylko to co jest ważne i robi się przejrzystość w głowie.
      Do tej pory spotkaliśmy ludzi z różnych zakątków świata, Włochy, Hiszpania, Portugalia, Belgia, Holandia, Niemcy, Rosja, Słowenia, Węgry, Grecja, Południowa Afryka, Meksyk, Kanada, Australia, Brazylia, Nowa Zelandia, Południowa Korea, Singapur, Arabia Saudyjska,USA.
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    • Day 5

      Day 3 - To Zubiri

      September 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Day 3 -To Zubiri
      Today was a bit more pleasant. I managed
      17 km again and it was more level with some ascent and descent.
      1/2 or 2/3 of the way was paths within the forest so much better than the direct sun. And it was beautiful. My body is holding up really well. Just my toes get sore. When we arrived in Zubiri we walked over a bridge entering the town, so once we were checked into our Albergue we went to soak our burning, aching feet in the creek. It was wonderful!! Hot shower at the end of the day feels real good for muscle overuse, but can’t even describe how good the cold water felt on the feet! Our path is marked to show the way. We follow either a clam-shell type picture or a yellow or blue arrow. And sometimes they are not very distinguishable. I have taken a wrong turn a few times and luckily backtracked before I was too far. Included is a picture that shows how subtle signs can be; two of them in the photo. Sometimes they are more obvious than others, so we sure have to keep alert.Read more

    • Day 4

      Etappe 2 - Zubiri, Etappenziel erreicht

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Jetzt geht die Suche nach einem Bett für heute Nacht los. Alle bisher gefundenen Pensionen sind bereits belegt.
      Gerade haben wir in der offiziellen Herberge eine Übernachtung bekommen. Jetzt heißt es Betten beziehen und an der Dusche anstehen. Danach ist die Wäsche erstmals dran.Read more

    • Day 4

      Etappe 2 - Zubiri

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Nachdem wir unsere Betten bezogen haben und die Wäsche gewaschen und aufgehangen ist, kann ein kurzer Rückblick erfolgen.
      Wir haben heute ca. 26 km bewältigt. Landschaftlich nicht ganz so interessant wie gestern. Heute morgen ging es kurz nach halb sieben los. Bei Dunkelheit mussten wir unseren Weg finden. Ein junger Slowene hat uns nicht nur den Weg erleuchtet, sondern wir haben lange den Weg gemeinsam begangen und uns gut über Landwirtschaft in Slowenien ausgetauscht, denn seine Eltern betreiben einen Landwirtschaftsbetrieb .
      Frühstück gab es in einer kleinen Gaststätte am Wegesrand. In Borguette standen wir dann vor dem Café in welchen noch von Ernest Hemingway das Originalklavier steht. Leider war noch nicht geöffnet, sodass wir nicht besichtigen konnten.
      Der übrige Weg war wenig spektakulär und teilweise schlecht zu begehen. Die Samaria Schlucht auf Kreta war dagegen ein Kinderspiel.
      Der letzte Abstieg nach Zubiri hatte es dann nochmals in sich. Ich hatte mit meinem angegriffenen Knie heute erneut Probleme, Günter ging es dagegen besser. Er war mir immer einige Schritte voraus.
      Jetzt sitzen wir gemütlich bei Essen und Bier in Zubiri und lassen den Tag Revue passieren.
      Morgen geht es nach Pamplona. Dort werden wir eventuell einen Tag bleiben. Mal sehen was der morgige Tag bringt.
      Fazit des Tages: trotz Schmerzen im Knie die Etappe geschafft. Manchmal muss man über seine Grenzen gehen.
      Ultreia
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    • Burguete to Zubiri

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      We left Burguete about 9am after a coffee and croissant at the bakery.

      The initial walk was through beautiful dairy farmland with the lower peaks of the Pyrenees looming behind meadows with horses and cows.

      Espinal just a few miles out was time for a café con leche and a chat with fellow pilgrims. Espinal is a beautiful town.

      We made another stop at a great cafe right on the trail at Bizkarreta-Gerendiain. We refueled there with a tortilla de patatas, a potato, cheese and egg tart, and a cold drink.

      Then we did quite a bit of climbing on a dirt and rock track until we found a food truck where the trail crossed the road about 5km short of Zubiri. We stopped for a cold drink.

      The last bit was a very tough downhill slog on a rough and rocky track. Kevin's dodgy right knee started complaining but on the opposite side to the usual. It’s trying to be versatile in its dodginess I guess. We took it slowly and arrived at Zubiri around 3:30pm.

      We have a great room here: two beds in a room in a very nice apartment with 2 bathrooms and laundry equipment. We’re sharing the apartment with 2 Irish couples from Wexford we’d noticed on the track since Orisson.

      An excellent dinner at this place https://hostalgautxori.com. Food and service highly recommended. I guess it was Navarran Basque cuisine. A short walk from centre of town.
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    • Day 3

      Etappe 2 : Roncevalles nach Zubiri

      September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      Nach einer kalten aber ruhigen Nacht, heißt es wieder Schuhe schnüren und weiter auf den Weg Richtung Zubiri.
      Um 7.15 Uhr startete ich zuerst alleine.
      In Burgutte legte ich eine kurze Pause ein, bei Croissant und Cafe.
      Später traf ich wieder auf bekannte und neue Pilger.
      Der Weg führt uns zuerst, durch den Wald auf schmalen Wegen.
      Später ändert sich der Weg in einen teilw. sehr steilen schottrigen Abstieg.
      Manche Mitpilger, kamen bei diesem Abstieg an ihre Grenzen.
      Nach diesem zähen Abstieg erreichten wir endlich Zubiri.
      Nach dem Einchecken in der Albergue ALBERGUE EL PALO DE AVELLANO, musste erstmal enspannt werden.
      Morgen führt mich der Weg weiter Richtung Pamplona.
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    • Day 7

      Above the bar in Villava

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      A pitcher of Sangria is calling my name & I won't have to worry about finding my way home😇! The only problem will be climbing the stairs to our room after walking 10 miles today. The knee braces definitely helped, hoping my legs get used to these distances soon!

      We have made friends with some fun people who were staying in the same "pension" in Zubiri as we did last night. These folks are from St. Louis, Southern CA, & Queensland Australia. Even though we are all walking at our own pace we continue to bump into the same group during at rest points, cafes during the day or at lodging places in the evening. We all had breakfast together and then started on our way.

      Our walk started on the road, and then we were on a path through farms and then along the river.

      Had a delicious Spinach Friata at a rest stop in Zurain. We saw fellow walkers picking figs from fig trees. The sun was out, then it wasn't, then it rained. This was repeated at least 5 times today.

      Right now we are sitting at a laundromat. Just switched our load from the washer to what we thought was the dryer. However, when we saw the the suds happening in the dryer we realized "garbigailua" is the Basque word for wash. Well our clothes are going to be super clean!
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    • Day 18

      Day 3 successful..22 kms and all’s well!

      April 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We are now in Zubiri, a small town you won’t find on a Google map, but we are in a delightful accommodation - a 1700s building, with wonderful wooden beams, and a charming hostess who greeted us.

      Set off from Roncesvalles quite early, Amr says before 9. It was rainy, as predicted, and we wore ponchos all day, even though it did stop occasionally, and even a ray of sunshine…but the rain has never been drenching - just sprinkling, but enough to get quite wet. Ponchos great, and body remains dry and warm! So today we descended down over the other side of the mountains. It was a gorgeous walk to start…a smooth easy path, through lovely countryside…we stopped for coffee/ColaCao and bought supplies to eat when we needed sustenance. It. Continued like this, undulating and just beautiful even though it drizzled on and off, and we were more than half way along and feeling that all was wonderful.

      Then, we came to the last 6 kms…this was the descent into Zubiri which is in the floor of the valley. (10 years ago we walked this, and arrived at Zubiri at 2pm, and I don’t remember it being difficult)…anyway, as we started the descent the path became quite hazardous - downhill with loose uneven stones, with ridges of the slate that is the solid base, mud, rivulets of water from all the rain and basically all the filling eroded…it took so long, watching every step and concentrating on not slipping or falling!! You’ve no idea how long walking a kilometre takes doing this!! Thank goodness for sticks. I think it was the rain over the last few days, plus that this is the end of winter and the melting snow etc…but the path wasn’t really a path. BUT we all survived, and were so SO happy to reach this town and walk on a footpath!

      And our accommodation is perfect. Lovely Maria welcomed us, our bags were here. There is a jacuzzi which Amr had (I didn’t have swimmers - one of the things eliminated when packing for carryon) and our room is absolutely charming. We arrived with 2 Aussies we have talked to on and off who are also staying here, and ended up having drinks and dinner with them. Very fun and comfortable. They are staying at the same hotel at Pamplona (tomorrow) but leave the next day, and we have a rest day there on Sunday, so we will prob get out of sync…

      So that is our day..the first real day of 20 kms + and I feel proud that while my bones were aching during the long descent, I feel less stiff now than the others…!! But photos will show the stunning scenery…and tomorrow it is predicted to rain in the morning, then clear up and Sunday sunny! Yay! Saving all the muddy clothes till we have walked tomorrow and Amr will find a laundromat in Pamplona!!
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    • Day 5

      Day 6 - Zubiri

      May 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      If yesterday’s hike could be compared to watching scenes from “The Sound of Music” today’s jaunt would mirror “The Bridges of Madison County.” We’ve encountered every type of terrain: grass, dirt road, asphalt, concrete, cobblestone, eroded mountainside with sharp, protruding rocks, mud with leaves up to our knees, makeshift bridges made of rock. Even though we still did a fair bit of climbing today, today’s route was considerably more level than yesterday. Much of today had us walking through the forest, perched on a mountainside, with tree branches canopied over the trail. Overall, it was a gentle, delightful walk. Despite very similar distances, I did yesterday’s walk in 7 hours while it took me 5 hours today.. In fact, if I had not had a booked hotel in Zuniri, I would have walked another 5-10 kms to get closer to Pamplona.
      We’re like a cohort here, frequently crossing paths with the same people even though there are hundreds of us. I met two Irish girls today who were at my hotel in St. Jean, and have frequently encountered them on the trail, I’ve become good friends with a couple from Nashville who I met at the airport in Biarritz, and we’ve gotten together a number of times. I’ve met a couple from Lake Tahoe, California who are avid hikers and they met through their hiking club Tahoe. I’ve met Paul from England who shared his story of five finger shoes and how it helped him combat plantar fasciitis (I’ve included a photo of his shoes). I spent two hours today talking to an HR person from Melbourne who had great stories of his company travels all over the world. He did the Camino 10 years ago, but did not finish it. I’m unsure of his age but I suspect he’s on the shady side of 70.
      He asked me to join him for coffee but I declined because stopping for even short periods, causes my muscles to seize up. Today , I overdosed on magnesium, electrolytes, and water to avert cramping- no cramps today.
      So, I’ve been in Zubiri since 12:30 walking around a bit. Much of the economy, here too, appears to revolve around the Camino. I have no idea how large it is, but it is filled with cyclists. I’m sure at 20 groups of 4-10 cyclists have zipped by in front of our hotel.
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    • Day 5

      Day 2 - onward to Burguete

      May 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      We began our day with a somewhat disappointing breakfast in St Jean Pied de Port due to the lack of a menu and French language skills on our part.

      Then we headed over to the tourist office where our shuttle van picked us up to drive us back to the monument of the Virgin of Orisson where we had been picked up the day before. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the statue because visibility was so poor. I'd hate to be responsible for driving a van load of people up the winding road in dense fog while also avoiding the pilgrims walking on the road!

      At first the only issue was poor visibility, but then we also had rain and wind. Fortunately there were breaks in the rain, but it was a bit of a slog, but without the extremely steep uphill climb of the prior day.

      Part of the time we walked through a lovely forest on a path that could only be described as mulch. I don't know how thick the layer of leaves was, but it was kind of fun and bouncy to walk on. Along the way we heard cows, goats, sheep, and horses, and could sometimes see them despite the fog.

      We walked past Roncesvalles which is where most people stop for the day because we had reservations in Burguete about 2 miles down the road at Hostal Burguete where Hemingway stayed when he was in the area. I regret not taking a picture of the beautiful well word staircase where Hemingway once walked.

      We had a fantastic "pilgrim meal" at a restaurant down the road - lentil soup, delicious roasted chicken, and carrot cake accompanied by a nice bottle of red wine all for only €12 - including the wine! A far superior and more plentiful meal than we had had in France and for much less money too.
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    Zubiri, 31630

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