2023 Itzonagen European Ride

August - October 2023
Early in 2018 I started making plans for a new European Cycling Adventure, to be conducted in September 2020. However, Covid 19 put a stop to those plans for three years. Now finally "Itzonagen". Read more
  • 69footprints
  • 7countries
  • 65days
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  • 35.6kkilometers
  • 33.4kkilometers
  • Day 76

    An Unwanted Postcript

    November 1, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Everyone accepts that it is normal to experience jetlag after returning home from Europe. That feeling of lethargy and disturbed sleep can continue for a week or more after returning home. And that is why I did not worry too much when I started to feel unwell.

    It all started on Sunday evening. At first I found that I could not get warm. My legs started to ache and my body was shaking. Now that was something new. The only way that I could escape the chills was to retreat to bed and hide under the doona. Maybe it would all be better in the morning.

    After a very disturbed sleep, I actually felt worse in the morning. It was then that another thought started to occur to me. Was it possible that I had caught the dreaded Covid 19? Although I had somehow managed to dodge it for the past three years, I knew that sooner or later, it would probably catch up with me.

    It was time to unbox my last remaining RAT test package and see what it told me. It did not take long. Although you are meant to wait 15 minutes before examining the test tile, the result was clearly evident within 2 minutes. I had joined the Covid Club.

    I was instructed to call the nearest respiratory clinic for advice. After answering a few questions, I was issued with an electronic script for anti-viral medication. This was forwarded to the local chemist, and a couple of hours later, the medication was delivered to my doorstep.

    The next five days were a bit of a blur. Apart from a fever, the other symptoms were a cough, sore throat and extreme lack of energy. At least I could be grateful that it did not happen while I was still travelling. If I had to suffer, there was no better place to do it than in my own home.

    Five days after the first RAT test, I decided to try it again. The result was still a strong positive. That meant a few more days in isolation, but at least I was starting to regain some of my energy again.

    A couple of days later, another RAT test finally showed the result I was hoping. There was no sign of the dreaded line. I was no longer Covid positive.

    The following day I ventured out of the house for one of my favourite walks. Although I was more fatigued than usual, it was a great feeling to be returning to normality. It will still be a few more days before I have the stamina to resume riding, but at least I think the worst is now clearly behind me.
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  • Day 65

    The Longest, Last Day

    October 21, 2023 in Australia

    Most days have only 24 hours. However some days are different. When you are making the long journey half way round the world, from Europe back to Australia, time takes on a different dimension. Clocks and watches behave differently, requiring them to be set and reset multiple times. I am not sure how many hours the past day had in it, but I know it was a lot more than 24.

    It all began at 5 am in our apartment in Paris. That is when the alarm went off, to begin the long series of events that would culminate in the final end to our 2023 Europe Cycling Adventure.

    The next hour was spent having breakfast and tidying up the place. Then it was time to try to find the best way of packing all our possessions into the available luggage space. The final step was to take a few pictures of the place, to prove we hadn't left it trashed.

    Although our plane was not scheduled to depart until a little after noon, we could see no point in sitting in the apartment, just watching the clock go around. It would be far more interesting at the airport.

    The first challenge was to get our mountain of luggage down the narrow, winding staircase, and then into the tiny elevator for the other five stories down to the ground floor. It wasn't easy, especially since I had to do most of the lifting by myself.

    Some considerable time later, we were standing on the footpath on the Boulevard de Sebastapol. It was still pitch dark at 7.30 am, and we felt somewhat vulnerable as we stared into the darkness.

    Our plan was to walk about 800 meters to the nearest taxi stand to catch a taxi to the airport, however our transport arrived much earlier than that. Vacant taxis are recognised by the green light on their roof, and we had only walked a short distance when I noticed a familar green light coming down the street toward us.

    "Quick, go and hail it", I told Maggie. So that is what she did. It was almost too easy to be true. We quickly agreed on a price to get us to the airport, and were soon comfortably gliding through the pre dawn streets of Paris.

    The trip to the airport took less than 30 minutes, aided by the fact that the driver did not seem to feel any compulsion to observe the posted speed limits along the way. Paris is a bit like that.

    By the time we were deposited safely at Terminal One, the sky was just beginning to lighten. We found our way to the Cathay Pacific check in desk and were soon watching our luggage disappear onto the conveyor belt. It was only then that the check in lady realised that she had not put the full complement of luggage labels on Maggie's suitcase. She lunged after it, but it was already too late. It had already been swallowed up by the machinery. She shrugged and tried to assure us that it would "probably be OK anyway".

    We wandered off further into the terminal, wandering if the luggage would make the same journey we were about to begin, or whether it would head off on its own adventure to somewhere else entirely different.

    The next step was to pass through Immigration and security. The first step was easy, but the second was a little more stressful. After passing through the XRAY scanner, my carry one bag was shunted off out of the regular queue for special attention. The staff said they wanted to search it for suspicious items. In a quavering voice, I told them that it was OK, but I think my blood pressure and pulse rate immediately stepped up by several levels.

    After fossicking through my possessions and scanning for drugs, they decided that I was not an elderly terrorist drug dealer after all, and I was finally reunited with my case and allowed to leave. We then had a couple of hours to wait until our flight was ready to leave for Hong Kong. I needed that time to buy a coffee and regain my composure.

    Fortunately the flight departed on time. We did not have to take an alternative route through India (like Gordon and Sue had to a few day's earlier). What followed next was twelve and a half hours of meandering flight paths (trying to skirt around the growing number of conflict zones in this part of the world), until we finally landed in Hong Kong just as dawn was breaking.

    We then had another 4 hours transit time in Hong Kong, before our flight to Melbourne was due to take off. We did not mind at all. On the outward flight we almost had no time between flights, and had to literally run from plane to plane to make the connection.

    At the airport in Paris we had been joined by Greg and Andrea, who were the only other remaining members of our group. At least we had some familiar faces to share the long journey with.

    The final leg of the journey was the nine hour flight from Hong Kong to Melbourne. Although we still had a long way to travel, we actually felt that we were almost in our own neighborhood at this time.

    The flight touched down in Melbourne just before midnight on Friday night, but we were still not quite home yet. We still had to get from Tullamarine to our homes. Before leaving Australia we had prebooked a shuttle car to drive the four of us to our homes. We were relieved that the driver was waiting for us when we arrived. We were even more relieved when we saw our familiar luggage finally appear on the luggage carousel. We were on the home straight.

    At this hour of the night, the freeways were almost empty, and the drive home was trouble free. At about 2 am, we were standing outside our own home. Our journey was finally complete. It had been one of the most most complex trips I had ever put together, but now I could rest easy that every detail had gone exactly according to plan. Now I could finally relax, secure in the knowledge that "all the chickens were now safely back in the hen house".

    Ahead lies a few quiet days of rest and recovery. We have earned them.
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  • Day 62

    Last Day in Paris

    October 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We were faced with a dilemma. What do you do to fill your last day in Paris, not knowing when you will ever return ? The answer is surprisingly simple. You do just what you have spent every day doing - walking ! And that is what we did.

    This time we decided to spend more time on the left bank of the Seine. We had enjoyed many hours on previous trips exploring the narrow streets and eclectic shops in this region. On this visit, most of our walks had been on the right bank. It was an opportunity to even things up a little.

    We walked south, crossed the river and stopped to spend some time having a closer look at the mighty Notre Dame restoration works. Our walk then continued on to the left bank and slowly meandered eastwards.

    It is possible to walk endlessly in Paris, without having a definite destination in mind. It is just that sort of place. Although, on this trip, we were somewhat restricted due to Maggie's bad back, we still managed to walk quite a few kilometres on every day we were here.

    After we were both feeling tired, we started to make our way back to the apartment to tidy up and pack our bags for the last time. When I get back to Australia, I will add up the total number of different hotels we stayed in during this trip. I do know that the repetitive ritual of packing every morning to move to a new location is a very tiring one.

    In many respects, it is a more demanding exercise than the daily ride. Only people who have participated in one of previous cycling trips will appreciate just how demanding they can be. These trips are not intended to be easy. I know they are challenging in all sorts of ways, but the feeling of achievement at the end is unlike any other travel experience. I am so proud of each and every one of our participants for what they have accomplished over the past 9 weeks. I am sure it will something they will never forget.

    Tomorrow morning we face the long journey home. That is the final challenge and it is always an occasion for relief mixed with sadness that it has all come to an end. All the other arrangements have gone so well, I just hope that the return trip will go just as well.
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  • Day 61

    And Then There Were Four

    October 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Just a few short weeks ago, there were 27 Ghostriders taking part in our ride along the Moselle River from Koblenz to Saarburg. When that ride finished, the group started to disburse. Most headed off to Passau to ride the Danube from Passau to Vienna, another group of 8 went to Donaueschingen to begin a series of thee extended rides in central Europe, and a few others began their journey back to Australia.

    It is now late October, Europe has well and truly moved into the cooler time of the year and our long awaited adventure is drawing to a close. A few days ago, the remaining 8 Ghostriders took a train from Vermenton to Paris. The only challenge left was to survive the daily walks around the famous City of Light.

    For Gordon and Sue, their time in Paris was very short. They made their way directly to CDG Airport to catch their flight back. Or so they thought. Unfortunately, a cruel twist of fate saw their scheduled Cathay Pacific cancelled. What they then found themselves in was a travel nightmare.

    No longer able to fly on Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong, they were eventually shunted off onto an Air India flight to Delhi. This was definitely NOT on their travel wish list. After an horrific 40 hours of transit, they finally touched down in Melbourne.

    Two days later it was time for David and Carol to face the travel gauntlet. Fortunately for them, their flight was not cancelled, and they were able to take off on time. By the time I am writing this, they should be in the air, somewhere between Paris and Hong Kong.

    And so that leaves just four of our original contingent left on the continent. And we only have one full day left. Early on Thursday morning we will be starting our own international odyssey.

    But what a trip we have had. After the multiple postponements due to Covid, it is a little hard to believe that all the plans have actually been completed. It certainly was one of the most complex trips I have ever put together, and it is such a relief to look back over the past 9 weeks, secure in the knowledge that there were no huge stuff ups along the way.

    All that remains now is that interminable flight back to Australia. It is the price that must be paid for travelling to Europe.
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  • Day 60

    Walking our Legs Off in Paris

    October 16, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    My biggest concern before we arrived in Paris was just how mobile we would be. Maggie had been seriously compromised with a bad back, and walking any distance had been very hard for her. And yet the only way to truly explore Paris is on two legs. This was truly a dilemma.

    I don't know whether it is because her back is healing, or whether she is just running on pure adrenaline. Whatever the reason, I am relieved to report that we have been able to cover large portions of the city on foot. Although Maggie is still in some discomfort, she has still been able to walk a considerable distance. That is a huge relief for both of us.

    This morning we set off heading away from the river towards Les Halles, and managed to rediscover the place where we both had glasses made when we here in 2019. The place makes the claim that they can make your glasses "in 10 minutes or 10 Euro". And that is what they do.

    When we returned this morning, we found that the business had actually expanded to include the next couple of shops. It is now possible to watch the entire process happening before your eyes. First you do the eye test to determine your prescription, then you choose the frames, then from then on the whole process is automated. A short time later your new spectacles are ready ! Simple.

    We then wandered along the right bank of the river to the Louvre Museum, where we were surrounded by a whole tribe of gypsies, all trying to accost us with their bogus petitions. This scam has been going on for many years, and has resisted all attempts by the authorities to stamp it out. Fortunately they are not aggressive, and they generally are deterred by a firm "non".

    Our walk took us through the Tuileries Gardens and back onto the Rue de Rivoli. We followed it as far as the famous chocolate shop called "Angelina's". This place is regarded as a Paris institution, and always has a long queue of hopeful patrons trying to gain entry. We had already visited the shop a couple of times previously, and the last time we were there, we were both underwhelmed. We had other plans in store.

    Way back on the L'ile St Louis there is a tiny Salon de The, where we have made a habit of enjoying a quiet lunch every time we have been in Paris. So that is where we headed next. It was a long walk, but we made it in time for lunch.

    Maggie and I then separated to make our own ways back to our apartment, having another close look at the progress on Notre Dame. By the time I finally climbed the six floors to our room, my watch was telling me I had walked over 15,000 steps. My legs were telling me it had been many more.

    This really is a hectic, crazy, eccentric, enigmatic, confronting and wonderful city. With all its faults, I can never get tired of visiting.
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  • Day 59

    Enjoying An Almost Car Free Paris

    October 15, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    When we were last in Paris, back in 2019, I was planning to be back in 12 months' time. Of course I had no idea that a worldwide pandemic was going to change all that. It has taken four years for our plans to finally come to fruition, and we were both keen to see how Paris had changed in that time.

    The most obvious change that we could see immediately was that Paris now has far fewer cars than previously. During Covid, many kilometres of dedicated bike lanes were constructed throughout the city. This included making several high profile roads out of bounds for normal vehicular traffic.

    Although Covid is now largely behind us, the changes to Paris streets are permanent. It was refreshing to be able to walk along the famous Rue de Rivoli, sharing the road with only bicycles, scooters, taxis and fellow pedestrians.

    In spite of the initial resistance to this change, it is obvious that Parisians have embraced it enthusiastically. As I looked out at the sea of bikes riding along the streets, I could not help but think that Paris was looking more like Amsterdam.

    The main aim of our morning walk was to return to the familiar area of the L'ile de la Citie and the L'ile St Louis. These two large islands in the Seine are situated close to the heart of Paris, and are home to some of the most expensive real estate in the world.

    Back in 2013 Maggie stayed in an apartment on the L'ile St Louis for two weeks while the rest of the group rode the Loire, and she was keen to revisit the place she had grown to love. We were also keen to see the progress on the reconstruction of Notre Dame Cathedral.

    On our last visit in 2019, it was soon after the devastating fire, and repair work was only in its infancy. Four years later, the cathedral is still enclosed in a mammoth lattice of scaffolding. Although much has been achieved, there still appears a huge amount still remaining to be finished. It is really hard to see how it will be completed on schedule at the end of 2024.

    While we were walking I was having fun reading the names of shops along the way. The one which really stood out for being brilliantly creative was a patisserie with the magnificent name "She's Cake". Since their major product was a huge array of different cheesecakes, the name was a stroke of someone's genius.

    After returning to the apartment for lunch and a rest, we headed off again in the afternoon. This time we were wanting to return to the Place de Vosges, a small garden we had discovered on our previous visit. On the way there we made another chance discovery, when we walked into the Museum of Parisian History.

    This free museum was crammed with interesting exhibits from Paris over the centuries. We were enjoying ourselves until Maggie nearly created an ugly international incident by tripping over and falling into the priceless Louis XIV collection, almost destroying the whole thing. This earned a stern rebuke from the attending guard. Oh well, it was a thing that unfortunately happens to old people.

    We tried to walk away without causing more damage or attracting more unwanted attention. It was a little embarrassing, to say the least, but I am sure the damage can be easily repaired with a little superglue and duct tape.
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  • Day 58

    The Last Train to Paris

    October 14, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    During the course of the past 8 weeks we have caught numerous trains, buses, ferries and taxis to get us from one location to another. So far, I am extremely relieved to say, that all the complicated arrangements have worked perfectly.

    We are now all very aware that our mammoth adventure is coming to a conclusion. This morning we all packed our bags for almost the last time, as we prepared to leave Vermenton and head to Paris.

    After breakfast, a few of the group made a final walk into the village to buy some goodies from the Boulangerie, while Maggie and I stayed in the millhouse. We were feeling a mixture of apprehension and excitement as we faced the thought of spending the next few days in Paris. While we both love Paris dearly, we knew that our movements would be restricted by Maggie's sore back. I was also not looking forward to how I was going to get all our luggage from the train station to the apartment we had booked on the right bank. Somehow I just hoped that it would all turn out OK.

    By noon, we were all ready to go. Cynda, the owner of the millhouse, had kindly offered to carry all the group's luggage to the Vermenton Station, so that took care of our first major challenge.

    As Maggie and I slowly walked from the millhouse through the familiar village streets, we were both very conscious that we were walking them for the very last time. We will miss this funny little place that had been our home for the past week.

    When the whole group was at the station, we stopped at the little cafe opposite to share a coffee before our train trip to Paris. Then it was time to cross the road and wait for the train to arrive. This train trip was to be our final train ride for this trip, and we all wondered how full the train would be.

    We have already had bad experiences with trying to manhandle all our luggage onto a crowded train, and did not want to repeat that. Fortunately, when the train pulled up (right on time), we were relieved to see that it was almost empty. We had plenty of room for our luggage, and also found some comfortable seats for ourselves.

    The trip to Paris took around two hours. We climbed off the train at Bercy Station and shared our final goodbye hugs with the friends we had spent the previous 8 weeks with. From now on we will be on our own. It will be a little strange, after spending so much time together with the others.

    The first challenge we faced was getting off the station. We knew that many French stations have multiple staircases to be climbed. Lifts and elevators are often very rare. I could hardly believe it when I saw that the platform led directly to the outside of the station. There was not a single stair to be tackled.

    After walking out the station, I was relieved again to see a line of waiting taxis. A couple of minutes later we were sitting in a very comfortable Skoda taxi and on our way to our apartment. I had told the owner that we were hoping to be there "around 4 pm", and we pulled up at exactly 4.01 pm. This was almost too easy to be true. The taxi was even able to drop us off directly outside the entry door.

    We then had to open two doors, each secured by a different combination, climb into one of the tiniest lifts I have ever seen, ride it to the fifth floor, and finally climb the spiral staircase to our apartment on the sixth floor. Since the lift was so small, only one person could fit in at a time.

    The mild mannered owner, Paul, was waiting for us, when we finally reached the summit, and showed us around, before handing us the key and leaving. We were finally on our own.

    The apartment itself, though small, was bigger than most hotel rooms in Paris. It even came with a tiny kitchen, dishwasher and washing machine. When we looked out the window, we could even see the Eiffel Tower and part of Sacre Coeur Cathedral. We are situated just north of the Seine, on the border of the famous Marais and Les Halles Regions. It will be an ideal base for our 2023 Paris experience.
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  • Day 57

    Picnic in Accolay

    October 13, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    With only one full day remaining in Vermenton, we had to decide how we would use that time wisely. Due to Maggie's injured back, we had been rather restricted in how far we could walk from the mill house.

    This morning we awoke to yet another perfect day, and Maggie actually felt that her back was a little better. It was finally time to try out a longer walk.

    About 2 km from Vermenton, is another small village called Accolay. Some of the others in our group had already made the walk, and encouraged us to see it for ourselves. So that is what we did.

    After first walking to our friendly boulangerie for supplies, we then packed a picnic lunch and set out. The path begins at the millhouse, and then meanders through farmland before following the lovely Canal d'Accolay to the village itself.

    Our first impressions of the village were that it was much better maintained than Vermenton. The paths were clean, the bridge recently repaired and the houses were almost all in good condition.

    After enjoying a coffee (1 euro a cup) at the caravan park, we then found a picnic table by the canal to enjoy our lunch. It was a perfect way to spend our final day.

    In the evening we all walked to Vermenton's only pizza shop for a delicious pizza dinner. Tomorrow the weather is predicted to finally break, with the top temperature forecast of 16C. That happens in Europe when summer finally ends and winter arrives in a hurry. We can't really complain, as we have enjoyed an unbelievable run of perfect weather, almost from the first day we arrived in Amsterdam.
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  • Day 56

    High Tea in the Borgogne

    October 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    With our time in Vermenton steadily drawing to a close, the ladies were keen to add a bit of class to our dining. Somehow, they came up with the idea of conducting a "High Tea", complete with scones and cream, cakes, sandwiches and a white table cloth.

    During the morning a team was delegated to walk to the supermarket and boulangerie for supplies, and then Maggie and Andrea set about creating something special.

    By the middle of the afternoon, the spread was ready. The table was set (they even improvised the traditional multi level plate). Then we sat outside in the warm sunshine and enjoyed a little taste of culture.

    Tomorrow will be our last full day in Vermenton, before we pack our bags and catch the train to Paris. That really will mark the final stage of our epic adventure.
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  • Day 55

    A Snake in the Grass

    October 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The unbroken run of perfect days has continued with no end in sight. Each day dawns cool and clear, and then gradually heats up to a top temperature of around 28 C by the late afternoon. I cannot remember the last time we had wind, and, in some ways, it feels like we are immersed in some sort of idyllic Ground Hog Dog, where each day is a repeat of all those perfect days that came before.

    This morning we headed off to discover new areas of the village that we had not explored before. We soon found ourselves at a Roman Laverie (wash house). This place had been heavily restored, but it served to give a good indication of what life might have been like in this area around 2000 years ago.

    After the wash house, we made our way to the Gare (station) to try out the village's other cafe - the Cafe de la Gare. It turned out to be a much more pleasant experience than the one we had shared the previous day. The street was quiet and tree lined, and the proprietress seemed happy to see and serve us.

    On the return walk we found that the quiet little village had burst into life. Several shops which had been closed since we arrived last Saturday, had now opened. There were even people in the streets. It was quite a surprising transformation.

    It was only as we were walking up the drive to the mill house that we received the biggest surprise of all. Without warning, Maggie let out a huge shriek and pointed to the path ahead. I thought at first that she may have seen a small spider or something. When I finally located the object of her terror, it really was not what I was expecting. Slithering across the path was a quite large, pale brown snake. I had to admit that it did give us a bit of a shock, however the fellow obviously meant us no harm. In fact, he was quite beautiful.
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