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    Time to say goodbye

    20 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I wake at 7 and there is a misty damp fog surrounding the whole area. Coffee is already on the boil and it's Coffee Mr Chart has grown himself. It is definitely the best coffee I've had here and is delicious. Mr Charts wife asks if i want to take a walk with her and shows me around our lovely village. are heading back to Pai today and Mr Chart is kindly going to drive us to the National Park Entrance where Golf had agreed to pick us up from, but they were out partying with my friends last night and has messaged me in the early hours that he's unable to do this but can arrange for someone else to pick us up for a fee. When j calls he wants to charge us 1500 bhat for a 45 min journey but Mr Chart comes to the rescue and offers to take us there just for the fuel money. The journey through the National Park is only 30km but the road is treacherous after the rains we've had so he arranges to bring bamboo(his son) and his 2 friends and his wife koy in case we need to chop any trees down. As we leave the home the two dogs follow us running as fast as the truck until they can keep up no more. well all I can say about the journey is wow wtf we climb dirt tracks cross rivers and scale up and down the most amazing scenery with my heart in my mouth winding around these tracks that are controlled by the amount of rain that has fallen. The road is slowly being concreted but we get to one point and we literally have to get out and build a track so we can pass. Eventually we arrive back in Pai and as we bid our farewells to Mr Chart outside the 7/11 I'm sad to say goodbye. I can't praise this man enough he is truly a hero in my eyes. After a walk down walking street greeting people along the way I check back in to Villa de Pai and take myself for a leg massage. Even with the lack of language the girls in the massage parlour are shocked and laughing at the fact I've been to the jungle and eaten frog, and tell me its more expensive than beef or pork here. In the evening I head out to walking street which is really quiet due to most of the youngsters being In koh phagnan for the full moon party but to be honest it's quite nice. I spend most of the evening at Phatos tiny bar and after a little wander come back as its the busiest bar in town. We finish off with a couple of games of pool In Humble when we've finished and I don't even remember walking home.Läs mer

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    Things that go bump in the night

    19 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    At 3am I hear a terrible noise and when I sit up I see Hams hammock has collapsed and he's lay on the floor. Mr Chart is laughing his head off and I don't know whether that's the amount of whisky he's drunk or because he teased Ham earlier in the night it wouldn't stay up for 5 mins. Its the most uncomfortable nights sleep I've had yet and it takes me another hour to drift back off. We all wake at about 8am an the guides are nowhere to be seen and have left a pot of leaf tea on the fire but I wake up and have the worst stomach and have to find somewhere very near by to take a number 2 I climb an embankment and crouch down but struggle to keep my stance very nearly falling in my own runny mess. Trust me jungle trekking is not for the faint hearted. Back to camp and Mr Chart and Ham are back carrying the essentials for this morning including fresh water. We sit and chat with Mr Chart about his life and he explains how in his generation people dont get to have sex unless their married. I also ask him how he feels about the different areas in Thailand and he says he wouldn't want to be anywhere but his village. I love the fact he appreciates everything that he has and how he is so In touch with nature. The boys have made porridge in the pot of water that's been boiling away and we put the oats in and make porridge and to be honest it sorts me right out. We enjoy things like cutting bamboo and having a go with the slingshot but I'm in absolutely in awe when both Mr Chart and Ham both hit the bottle first time. They are definitely jungle boys. Brunch is cooked which is barbecued pork, noodles and rice and after the porridge I'm still quite hungry so have a full belly by the time we come to leave. Aron once again helps with a little of my weight and its only a short trek back to Mr Charts and his wife has cooked lunch for us although im still full from breakfast. I enjoy my first shower in 3 days and feel like a new woman before Josh and Ryan pack up and it was my plan to go with them to Chang Dau but Aron is staying on a night and it's so beautiful I decide to do the same. We sit all afternoon and reminisce over the past few days each remembering different aspects of the incredible time we've had. I'm grateful to Aron for inviting me on this journey that his cousin did with the same guide 6 yrs ago because I'm sure it wouldn't have been as good if I'd taken myself to Chaing Mai. Mr Chart takes himself to bed and I'm in need of cigarettes and a coca cola. We set off for the shop but they have no cigarettes so the coke will do for now. Later in the afternoon Ham returns and offers to take me to the shop on his bike and i have a little chuckle to myself when i get on and he hot wires it. In the evening we enjoy dinner with the family and after some chatting hit the sack. I am so grateful to be in a comfy ish bed.Läs mer

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    Stormy weather

    18 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    At midnight I'm woken in my hammock by thunder. I'm a little concerned as my tarpaulin doesn't drape over my hammock and I'm sure if it rains its not going to shelter my hammock. Luckily enough there's only a little rain and I manage to stay dry. It thunders throughout the night but at 3am I hear the loudest thunder I've ever heard in my life and I'm sure that's just not because I'm outside. I stay in my hammock as long as I can but eventually I have to join the boys in the banana leaf shelter. It pours and pours but with a bit of patching up I manage to curl up in my sleeping bag and get a half decent night sleep. We eat at camp the remaining frogs and rice served on a banana leaf and additional a packet of ritz biscuits then take myself to a private place for a number 2. All the water has to be brought from the stream to be boiled as once again we have a four hour trek. I'm suffering with blisters from Mr Charts shoes yesterday but thankfully the trekking isn't half as intense as yesterday. When we reach the summit of one of the hills we all receive a signal so i manage to receive a few messages which lifts my spirits. As I sit here Ryan decides to kick a tree and because its dead it crashes down less than a metre away from me. Another hours trek brings us to the cave and just as were about to enter the xave Josh let's out an almighty scream and is jumping around like he has ants in his pants , the fact is hes been bitten by one ant we all laugh hysterically as all the way through the trip Josh has yelped everytime an Insect has landed on him. Mr Chart isnt coming through the cave he'll meet us at the exit with the dogs. We arrive to a cave and it's a 1 1\2 hour trek through but what I think is an easy walk along the dry river bed is a full on rock climbing exercise abseiling downwards with pieces of rope I honestly fear for my life. I fall at one point and its only the adrenaline that keeps me going . Eventually after what seems like hours we reach a 30 ft ladder which brings us out of the cave to a sign that says do not enter dangerous thank god I didn't see that before going in. We offer our prayers to the bhudda as we leave the cave and as we turn the corner there is Mr Chart with the camp fire burning. Once again there's things to do like collect firewood, prepare dinner collect water and eventually I get the opportunity for a wash in the stream. Its so refreshing I see past how dirty the water is and just enjoy the moment. When we get back Mr Chart says he can arrange for a beer or anything to be brought and strangely I opt for a coca cola and the boys a beer. So he sends our other guide Ham out of the jungle to meet his son on a motorbike and true to his world nearly 2 hours later Ham walks in with beers and cola not coca cola but after drinking water boiled in bamboo I really don't care. He's also brought more Thai whisky which Mr Chart wastes no time in putting his special herbs in and we all sit round the camp fire enjoying the food and goodies. Ive even brought a pack of coca cola haribos and it enough for one each . Banana leaves are laid at the entrance to the cave and we're literally roughing it on the floor and tge only person with a hammock hung up is Ham and that's only because he's spent nearly an hour building a platform of bamboo to hang It from. With the heat of the fire we all eventually fall asleep.Läs mer

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    In the jungle

    17 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I get woken up by a buffalo passing my bungalow that I slept on the floor of last night at 6am in the morning and to be honest I slept pretty well considering. I wake and find that people are still sleeping so nod off again for another hour. We go to the Market because there are still a few things that we need to get so he offers to take us to the market. He suggests we buy we shoes bu mine are waterproof so I guess I'll be OK with them. About 10 am after a breakfast of last night's dinner with rice and a couple of omelette we are on our way. We are carrying everything we need including rice water and clothing and I must admit its very heavy. Within 15 minutes of walking we get to a point where there is a river and here's me thinking there's an easy way round but no we are literally going acmross the river, I don't really want to get my waterproof trainers that wet so I say I'll go in flip-flops but Mr Chart says this isn't possible and swaps shoes with me. I am so grateful when I put my foot in the water because its thick mud and how he's managed to keep my flip-flops on is a bloody miracle. We continue trekking with the wet shoes on as there are quite a few rivers to cross and even though they're giving me blisters I persist because he knows the better option. We trek through the jungle and at on point trek upto a cave which is mind blowing its not small but once inside you can stand up and the walk through to the inside. The trek to here has nearly broken me and when I reach the cave I need to take a break. I'm sweating like hell and the boys offer to take little bits of my rucksack each to make my load lighter but I insist on still carrying some of it . We eat a small lunch of snacks we've brought with us and continue on to reach camp. The whether has threatened Thunderstorms so at one point there is talk about a cave but it stays clear so onwards we go. We have walked over 10 miles when we arrive and just as we think we're going to get a rest we couldn't be more mistaken. We need to cook food build a shelter out of bamboo and banana leaves. It really is intense but I'm loving it. I'm amazed at how the bamboo is so versatile even cups and dishes are made from it as we are here. I trek back into the jungle to help carry more bamboo back and fall into the spikiest Bush there is here. I literally have to pull myself out of it but out of nowhere Mr Chart comes to my rescue. We build the shelter and eat a late lunch of chicken barbecued over the fire on a bamboo stick that I'm in charge of and a pan of water with lemongrass garlic salt and herbs that more chicken is added to like a broth its bloody delicious even if I say so myself. We drink the whisky with the herbs that have been put in it along the trek and Mr Chart appears saying he's made a shower its actually a funnel of bamboo in a natural stream but I take my clothes wash my t shirt the wash myself with the t shirt it actually works. I feel a million dollars and then set about setting our hammocks up. Once all the hammocks are set up the boys go off frog hunting and I'm quite shocked then they come back with one each. Dinner tonight is frog and god knows what but I'm hungry so anything goes. Our hammocks are set up by Mr Chart and after numerous whisky s and chats around the fire we settle I'm for the night.Läs mer

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    The long way round

    16 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    So after picking up the last essentials and breakfast we set of on our journey to Mr Charts house. We put the address in Google maps and half an hour in we are directed into the national park. The guard tells us we're unable to go through that way with the vehicle so we call Mr Chart and after much deliberation we are told we need to drive to chiang dao which is about 2 hours away and Mr Chart will meet us at the 7/11 by the petrol station. To be fair we ring him and he's there waiting for us. We stock up on goodies and then Aaron and I jump in with him and within a few minutes he's stopped to get a beer and Aaron buys the biggest bunch of banana . Mr Chart explains that when we go through the checkpoint we are doing a homestay not a trek otherwise we'll have to pay. As we drive the windiest roads yet he swings round them randomly beeping as if that's going to help. As we scale the mountain the sun is setting and its one of the beeest sunsets yet. When we arrive at the end of the evening we are greeted by the family and dinner is served tom kei like a chicken broth with vegetables and rice served with whisky which is white and has some kind of plant in it. All the same it goes down well. The place is lit by fairy lights and after dinner he lights the fires and discusses our plans for tomorrow bur he talks about eating frogs on the bbq and sleeping in a cave with bats. I try not to think about it too much or I'll be having nightmares. Our beds for tonight are on the floor of a wooden shack covered by a mosquito net and as I lay my head to rest Mr Charts departing words are "follow my butt open your mind and empty your stomach..... I'm so looking forward to tomorrow 🤣🤣🤣Läs mer

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    Jungle preparation

    15 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    The boys arrived yesterday and the plan is we are going to do a 3 day trek in the jungle with Mr Chart he is a guy that Aaron's cousin did a trek with 7 years ago and its been one of the pinnacle things on his trip to do. Josh Ryan and Aaron have a car already so we're going to drive to his place and stay overnight before heading into the jungle the following day. First we need to buy a few essentials like hammocks, long trousers and a mosquitos net. After several shops we accumulate most of the things needed and after buying 2 different hammocks take them back to the accommodation to give them a trial run set up tied to the two post we all agree that the plastic one with the built in mosquito net is the best one. We loot the second hand shops trying to find sensible footwear for the boys to trek with and I'm surprised we're successful when all the boys have such big feet. After shopping we make our way to o e of the waterfalls and after climbing to the top find its full of dirt and oil its no wonder the pool lower down doesn't entice us to swim. The bamboo Bridge we've walked across is perilous and in some parts non existent and Pathu my Thai friend has advised there's a chain to the right which we can use to climb up and down the rocks. In the evening we all eat in a restaurant called Charlie and leks and it the most delicious Thai food I've had since being here. A couple of beers finishes of the day and I head back to get packed up for tomorrow.Läs mer

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    Off Road

    13 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Omg I need to get to Chang Mai to stop this every day drinking. I've partied more in the North than I did in the South and its time to have a break for a few days.In the morning i share a last coffee with Romain as he leaves today. I also received a call from my friends Ged Darryl and Jon in Singapore, i shared such good time's with them and love the fact weve stayed in touch Ip and Golf have offered to take me out again today and Daisy and Satya are going to join us so I will get to ride the Atv 4x4. He picks us all up in the truck and we head to his house so everyone can meet. We ride down through the river and spend a good few hours just exploring the area before returning to the river and joining the other Thai families that just sit in the river bathing. We are the only foreigners here and even though I have my bikini on it seems totally inappropriate to start stripping off. I sit in the river in my shorts and t shirt and love the fact the kids play so happily. On the banks of the river are little bamboo chairs and tables but they have carried them into the river to sit on. By the time we have got there there are none left but within 20 minutes a guy turns upwith fold up chairs and table and we're soon sitting as comfortably as everyone else. In the evening we share a few beers but I have an early night as just feel I'm constantly topping up the hangover.Läs mer

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    Hanging with the locals

    12 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    It's been so long since I've been in water and with the heat here I'm definitely missing it, but I've kindly been invited up to a hostel that has one by Claire mimi and a couple of the guys who run it. We just chill around the pool for most of the day and I must admit being able to just chill after the copious amounts of beer I've drunk recently is kind of nice. The children have been bought a toy each and the young boy has a Pickachu thats tail and ears flash and moves around barking the most annoying toy but to see him so happy is wonderful. At about 3pm Golf messages to see if I would like to join them on the quads this afternoon and I'm always up for new experiences. We drive to his house and his girlfriend Ip joins us which I'm really happy about. He gives me the keys to my quad and I take it for a drive round the block but it's so powerful and I don't mind taking it slowly but then change and get on the back of one of the boys because they know how to throw these things around. The take us off track and up to the canyon for the sunset. If I was doing this on my own it's 3000baht so I'm very grateful to get this experience for free when we arrive to the top it is on the opposite side to the tourists and we sit having a Leo watching the sun set. The drive back down is a lot quicker and I get dropped to my door for 7pm to get a shower then straight back out for the Liverpool game. I've decided to watch it in a different bar as I want to be able to listen to the commentary . I meet Ip and Golf in the why not bar following onto boom and we drive round in the sand buggy looking for the after party which it seems is nowhere to be found. We end up in some Thai place which I'm quite glad of cos sometimes it's nice to get away from the younger crowd but shortly after the same old party seekers seem to have followed and even though I insist on walking back Ip and golf bring me back. We can't find anywhere for food as it's 2am but we go to 7/11 where I buy a pot noodle. I over do it on the chill but I'm so hungry I don't care.Läs mer

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    Visa Renewal

    11 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    I wake this morning and have been invited to lunch by Ponlawat and to chill at the hostel he runs. Its about a 15 minute walk and even though its really hot i enjoy stretching the legs. It's really chilled at the hostel and I enjoy the time just being in a little seat taking in the amazing view, catching up with my blog . I speak with Ponlawat about how things have changed and he explains how hard its been over the past few years and that no matter how rowdy the tourists have been the Thai people are grateful for the trade. The problem is there are very young people travelling and after too many buckets and beers a few fights have broken up over the last few nights . The police prescence has definitely heightened and the bars in the outskirts of town have been closed although by midnight everyone has had more than a skinfull so probably not a bad thing. As i walk back down to the hostel i see a guy cutting down the tallest tree hes right at the top held on by a single rope, i can barely look. A little further aling the road there's ladies in a field harvesting garlic they have huge binbag wrapped square pillows strapped to there backsides so they can sit comfortably on the job as they handpick the Garlic from the fields. Its then collected on pickup trucks piled so high but so neatly . Im in a bit of a dilemma because I need to renew my Thai visa and you have to apply then in 15 days get it stamped in the same place, so it's whether I want to stay in Pai to do this or whether I want to head back down South and do it in Krabi. I make the decision to stay as I have only been to Pai and want to explore more of the North without the pressure to rush it.Läs mer

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    White Bhudda

    10 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    As i walk for my coffee the national anthem plays and a dog in the street howls in harmony the whole way through it i couldnt even record it for laughing and the lady's in the street laughing at me laughing . I spend my morning doing paperwork and catching up with emails. My plan is to walk up to the White Buddha but I will get up there early and sit and read my book. I dress appropriately which means covered shoulders and nothing above the knees you also take your shoes off. I get annoyed when there are huge signs saying how to dress and yet so many of the people here don't have there shoulders and legs uncovered, it takes me all my might to shut my mouth. Wat Phra That Mae Yen is the Thai name for the white Buddha on the hill and just as I think I'm at my last flight of stairs another set appears, it's like climbing macchu pichu. The view from the top is amazing and well worth the climb. I come back down which is a lot easier than the climb up but as I'm on my way down we have an attack of flying ants. I literally have to put my sunglasses on to keep them from hitting me in the eyes there are hundreds of them. Safely home I get showered and it's straight back out again. I've made friends with a couple of Thai people here and it really changes the experiences. Pooee runs the wedges stand that are the best chips I've ever tasted While in the bar next door I get chatting to Ip and coff they are brother and sister and he has a sand buggy and when I ask him for the keys he gives me them. I swear if I hadn't had a drink I'd be tearing up and down the street. It secures my lift safely up to the sunset bar and they also promise to take care of me . A few hours later I'm safely escorted back down the hill and dropped off at my front door.Läs mer

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    Lod cave and the after party

    9 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    9/3/22After seeing the girls off I've booked onto a trip to Lod cave it's about 1and a half hours from here on windy roads and I'd prefer to watch the scenery than drive it . I'm joined by Alex and Will on the tour and they're chatty people which makes it a lot easier. Along the route we stop off at a few little view points and our driver (fireman sam) is really good at using Google translate to tell us about the various things of interest. At the caves we pay 500 baht which includes fish food a bamboo raft ride through the cave and our parrafin torch assisted guide. As we enter the cave there is an area to feed the fish and when I throw the food in they literally jump out the water in a frenzy. We walk into the cave with our guide pumping her gas torch like her life depends on it. The cave is full of Stalagmite (up from the water) stalagtites (dropping down from the ceiling) I remember this as thinking of how tights look on a line. The cave is full of bats and swallows and the noise is incredible. It's so difficult to take photos to actually show you how big this place is. The way the stairs lead you through the cave and how the calcium carbonate dripping has etched look a like items along the route like frogs crocodiles and bhuddas. We're also shown a tribal drawing 9000BC to 5500BC the cave was inhabited by the Hoabinhian hunting tribe with remnants of teak coffins that are unusually long and thin.The cave was first excavated in 1969. As you climb up and down the terraces of limestone steps you are greeted half way with a bamboo raft as we climb aboard there are 4 little stools to sit on. There are 1000s of fish in the water and because its so clear you see huge catfish big enough to tip this raft. The journey back is not too bad and after such a good day with will and Alex we agree to share a sundowners at my friend Pato's bar. We opt for the passion fruit mojito and enjoy them so much I'm still in the same clothes I wore at midnight. What a wonderful dayLäs mer

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    Sunrise School run

    9 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I wake at 530 so I can go up the viewpoint with Maddy and Eliza . We have arranged to meet at the garage and I'm surprised how cold it is. When the girls arrive they are in jumpers and it really makes me think maybe I should have done the same. The journey is about 20 minutes and as we head up my teeth are actually chattering. I'm surprised when we arrive there are a few people already up there and the guy is even there charging 20baht. The view is stunning and the sun is due to rise at 630. I'm shocked when just after this a few of the people leave. The sun always sets and rises behind the mountains and just after they leave a little red mark comes into the sky eventually growing into a bright red blob that looks lie its been made by a bingo dabber, really beautiful. We make the journey back down and there is a market where the Thai people go each day to buy there fresh products, further down the hill its the school run with kids in their uniform bundled onto bikes to be dropped off at the towns school. They also have a school for more mature students so if they have come from Burma or somewhere to work here they can go at tge weekends to learn. I head to the immigration office to get my visa extended but find out I have to be in the place for 15 days so I will wait and do it in Krabi. I meet the girls for a farewell breakfast as they are heading out today to go to Cambodia. We eat at om garden and I struggle to eat because I feel so ropey. I bid farewell to the girls and book on for the Lod tour but that'll save for tomorrow.Läs mer

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    Bridge over the river Pai

    8 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    8/3/22At breakfast a guy comes intto the restaurant and says he recognises me from 10 years ago when i was here with Amber he owns the book shop and has lived here for 20+ years. The girls and I hire bikes again and our first stop is bamboo Bridge. It's a bridge about 1km long that leads to a beautiful temple along the way is the a sign that says donations to feed the fish and secondly the children, I'm glad they have their priorities right. When we arrive back to where the bikes are the guy at the little shops has some banging tunes playing and we end up dancing in the car park. Our next stop is the memorial bridge which the Japanese built during world war 2 to ferry vehicles across the river during they're invasion of Burma. When they left the original bridge was burnt down but Thai people rebuilt it. It is in the prettiest setting with the river running underneath it and a mountain view. We have food in the Ilove pai restaurant which has huge egg chairs but the guy is so on one literally shouting at us about checking temperature and wearing masks giving us orders of how to order and the process of how the food and drink will be delivered. Its like something out of fawlty towers and I sit in my chair giggling as new people come in and he's like a record on repeat. As we came along the road we spotted an ornate bridge and when we go back to explore we find a monastery where the monks live and a beautiful Buddha temple. The place of worship is called an Abbey which means father. 93 percent of the population of Thailand are Buddhists . The monks each have a small room called a cell where they live and use as a devotional place. I take myself to bed early as I'm going for sunrise in the morning.Läs mer

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    Life of Pai

    7 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    I need a breakfast this morning but remarkably have no hangover .Either that or I'm still drunk. All the girls join for breakfast and it's nice as Louise leah and Rach are shipping out today and still have to pack. I discuss with the other 2 girls getting a bike later today and having it so we can do the sunrise tomorrow. At the bottom of the garden where I'm staying there is a river with swings and a little wooden platform where I can sit with my feet In the water reading my book. The nature here is amazing and I sit listening to the birds singing. I go local for a bite to eat and within 10 minutes the heavens open and it pours for nearly 2 hours. This is a good thing as it's smoking season in the North which is where the burn all the leaves that have fallen off the trees which makes the air quite thick with smoke and the smell isn't great either. I'm constantly bumping into people who I've met along the route and because I'm so recognisable with my age and cropped hair I stick out like a sore thumb. In the evening we end up in the usual haunts on the way to the bar i need cigarettes and as i walk into the shop the owner has just left and a local thai guy tells me to wait so i joke with him leaning over the counter to pretend to lòok for the owner and turn back to the local and shake my head. He finds it that funny he tells the owner when he comes back and he even asks to take a picture the boom bar is open so instead of going to the sunset bar I stay at boom as its literally opposite my bungalow so I can roll into bed.Läs mer

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    Chaing Mai to Pai

    6 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    The train arrives on time and after ducking and dodging all the taxi/tuc tucs at the entrance I sit in the cafe and enjoy the best coffee I've had in weeks. I've agreed a price of 100 baht to the bus station and the driver stands right by me guarding me like the crown jewels. I take my time and have a couple of cigarettes before he drops me to the station. At the ticket office I purchase my ticket to Pai for 150 baht which is ironic as its a 3hr journey and I've just paid 100 to travel 5 mins but I'm not complaining as it said it was 300baht online.The minivan drives the windy roads spending half his time on the other side of the road avoiding waterbuffalo just strolling along. Its burning season in the North at the moment and fires scatter the mountain range with bellows of smoke. About 40kmh outside of pai the bus pulls over and an Army guy opens the side door and the boot of the minibus and an alsatian sniffer dog gets in. With nothing found were on our way again. I'm meeting back up with the girls today and Louise and Rach are at a breakfast bar 15 minutes walk from the bungalow and when I arrive there's noone to check me in so I leave my backpack in a corner and walk to the cafe. When we get back Leah meets up and after sharing a drink 3 of us hire bikes. We go to the Chinese village and the viewpoint which is jaw dropping, but when we arrive at the waterfall it's dry so rather than risk life and limb climbing up it we give it a miss and head back. After a quick change we head out and grab street food and eat it in the bar which allows you to do this as long as you buy a drink. I end up on the Sambucas and as you can imagine it's not a good outcome. I end up in the sunset bar and have had at least 5 Sambuca and the same in beers and when I go to the toilet literally can't walk. Louise takes care of me but I'm so drunk one of the guys and Lou bring me home. 3 of us on a motorbike. It's something that won't be repeated but I'm glad to be in my bedLäs mer

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    The long goodbye

    5 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    I wake up heavy hearted this morning as a lot of the goodbyes over the last 24 hours are going to be for a long time. Its crazy how you meet people along the journey and have an instant incredible bond with them, and as much of that is probably the mummy side of me there's a big part that is just the fact I've met some extraordinary people. I don't get too wound up because I haven't been able to book my sleeper train online as it says they are fully booked, but Damon suggests I should head to the station to try and by my ticket. Its about a 35 min walk with a small ferry crossing involved but I have had to check out and even though my rucksack is in the locker room I've got all my valuables in my small backpack and it's so hot. I shout at myself really because the cost of a taxi is cheaper than the starbucks I had this morning but I actually enjoy walking through the random streets where shops overflow onto the pavements selling there multiple cheap plastic items. One area I walk through is an engineering area where machines are pulled apart and being reassembled and reels of cables piled high using the streets paving slabs to measure lengths. I finally arrive at the station and its crazy how much it looks like Lime Street station in Liverpool, little things reminding me of home. I'm so relieved when I get to the ticket office and they still have a sleeper bed available, with the journey being 12 hours long and over night I don't think I could bear doing it sitting up. On my way back I visit the flea Market which has all sorts of oddments being sold for pennies and the shop mall Iconsiam which is a mall that if Carling did shopping malls...... seriously it even has an indoor floating market and a terrace you can see for miles with the views of the sky scraper city floating around me. I visit all 7 floors and even though I'm resolute on not buying anything I enjoy the window shopping this would be heaven for my daughter Amber and granddaughter Abbie. I arrive back at the hotel and after an hour by the pool chatting with Patricia and Jan its time to get my cab to the station. I haven't seen Damon all day but just as my taxi arrives he appears and I say goodbye but hope I'll get to see him when I visit Seoul. I board the train and even though its a 2 berth cabin I get to have it to myself. Three guards come to my cabin and knock on the door one points a temperature gun at my head one takes numerous photos of me and the other punches my ticket At 7pm the guard comes in an asks if I want my bed made and settle down for the journey. The Internet is pretty none existent and having finished my book a few days earlier regret not downloading a film to watch. I decide to try and sleep for a few hours but the guy I the cabin next door is watching something and obviously doesn't have earphones. With intermittent dosing I manage to see the red men got a win which allows me to dose off at about 230am to be awakened at 600 telling us we're an hour from Chiang maiLäs mer

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    Reunited

    4 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Wow I don't think I realised how drunk I was yesterday. Its always the bloody Sambuca that gets me. It's like a silent assassin, but it's made itself very apparent in my head this morning. I feel rough as toast but weather the storm and take myself down to the pool for a swim to try and clear it. As I sit there the hotel backs onto the river and huge covered tugs go by that are carrying construction equipment, it can be anything from steel to sand. It amazes me the things that they move around by various transportation but they certainly get the job done. I've met a lovely couple here Patricia and Jan and sit talking to them by the pool. They own a condo here and spend two lots of 3 months here a year. As much as I'm a little envious I'm not ready to lay my hat down just yet and my plans are to head North tomorrow. Kate my Thai friend is in Bangkok and I invite her over in the afternoon to use the pool. Its so good catching up with her even though it wasn't planned to be this quick. We plan to meet up with the boys and head over to Khaosan Road again. Khaosan Road is a tourist street in Bangkok which going back before covid was absolutely packed day in day out with tourists eating anything from tarantula to scorpions and even though they are still doing that now there are far fewer of them. The boys are running a little late so we grab a few nibbles and a drink and arrange to meet them at the Jazz bar. I've booked a table because it gets so busy and we are literally squashed into a very narrow area but everyone is happy and seems to be enjoying themselves even though the drinks are a bit pricey. At the end of the evening Damon invites us all to a club but to be honest I haven't even packed yet and still need to book my train for tomorrow. The boys are thinking about it but there also on the move tomorrow so we call it a night and Damon and i share our last supper in the same late night food bar. I have the chicken in a whisky sauce which is so delicious before crossing the street to our hotel.Läs mer

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    Back in Bangkok

    3 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    After the most luxurious sleep I've had since starting my travels I've bought croissants and fresh fruits for breakfast . Damon has practice today so I've made a plan to take myself off for the day. My plan is to walk but I first need to catch a ferry across the water. I follow the sign down to the ferry port which leads me through a small market and to the ferry point but when I arrive there are no people and no ferries. There are multiple ferry crossings along the river so I guess maybe this ones shut, but as I walk back towards the market people are heading in the direction I've just come from so I turn back and low and behold the ferry turns up. Its 5 baht (10p) to make the crossing and I wander through the streets heading towards the park. Along the way I call into a few temples along the route. I've brought a shawl to cover my shoulders but when I enter the temple the lady says I need to wrap it round my waist as my dress is too short. As I leave the temple a tuk tuk shouts me and is shouting rain rain and as I wave him on his way it starts to rain. I duck and dive between canopies along the way and by the time I've reached the park its stopped. I'm not sure the park is open as the whole outside is cordoned off with barriers but I find an opening and the guard waves me through. The park is huge with multiple lakes and is full of monitor lizards. On the lakes there are what looks like abounded platforms but as I'm leaving the park I learn these are aerators used to oxygenise the water. I jump the tube and ferry and I'm back in my hotel in no time. A relax by the pool and a quick shower before I head out for dinner with Damon. We sit in the restaurant for nearly 45 minutes and when we ask where the food is the girl has to do Google translate to show us that the chef hasn't turned up yet. We settle the beer bill and Damon has to head off and I go to Khaosan Road to meet Henry and James. Reunited once again with my boys from Phuket. Its so good to see them and hear of their adventures. I only stay a short while because they are coming to the jazz club tomorrow. I bid my farewells and head to foojohn jazz club. Its a small club but is packed and I love the vibe. And at the end of the session get introduced to the quartet. We all share a drink before Damon and I share some street food although I'm not sure I fancy everything on the menu. To bed it is after another wonderful day.Läs mer

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    Pg tips

    2 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    My first point of call this morning is The Irish bar and no it's not for a beer its for a pg tips cup of tea and beans on toast. I can't believe they have proper t bags. It sets me up for the day. Damon has invited me to Bangkok to see one of his gigs and its all about the experiences for me on this trip so I grab it with both hands even if it is a diversion off the route I'd planned its kind of in the right direction. He's paid for a private taxi and says he'd be paying for it anyway so I agree to pay for dinner. We set off just before 1 as I bid goodbye to the girls along the street I've been staying who are all dressed up in there finery. The journey takes about 2and a half hours and it's like travelling in luxury compared to the bus once we've killed all the mosquitos in the car. We arrive at the destination well on time. Damon has a gig tonight so he has time to prepare and I indulge in the fact I've got pool. He's advised me that there are some good eating places along the street nearby and I opt for the gyozas that are the best I've had yet. I take a walk along the river and as I walk past the temple and down the alley to the pier I feel vulnerable for first time in a while. I don't know why because as I sit by the river I get the best table service I've had in a while with a bucket of ice and a glass with a large Leo as I sit watching the river boats go by. The whole river is lit up with the lights from the buildings that encompass the riverbank shedding their reflection onto the water. It really is an amazing city but over the years there isn't a space along the waterfront that is free from high rise buildings housing luxury hotels and huge glass fronted shopping centres. I meander back to the hotel taking in the smells from the street vendors cooking up their wares on the pavements and am shocked to spot a van on my back that is so full of parcels its leaning to one side it gives me a little chuckle before crashing into my luxurious bed and watching telly before drifting off into the land of nod.Läs mer

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    Things to do

    1 mars 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I get up really late today which is unusual for me and I have quite a bit to do today. I take my laundry to the lady just down the road and she wants to charge 200 baht . The maximum I've paid so far is 80 and I take my stuff back and find a place that's half the price but when I ask when it will be finished he tells me tomorrow night. The lady in charge of the massage shop where I went to yesterday asks what the matter is she says come with me and after grabbing some washing powder and liquid walks me round the corner and puts my stuff in the machine and and I pay 40 baht. The washing takes 45 minutes and I go back to the hostel and ask if it's OK to hang It out in the garden. She shows me where there's a line and even comes out with coat hangers for me to put it on the line. Honestly the kindness of people here never stops to amaze me. In the afternoon I walk to the shopping mall which is full of high end westernised shops and western people but gives me the opportunity to indulge in a Starbucks coffee. I also take the opportunity to have my nails done. I've arranged to meet Damon for dinner at Buckleys bar where the girls have also been kind and after a game of pool and a beer I suggest we go to the night Market. The street I am staying on is very similar to walking street in phuket with lady bars adorned the whole way along the street and as a single woman i dont get a lot of attention but there are all polite enough to say hello. The second theres a male farang(Thai word for westerner) the bars go crazy even if they are with a woman. Damon has never eaten in one of the night markets before and as we walk through we try the sweetcorn fritters as an appetiser they are quite sweet but I enjoy them. The stalls are ladened with fresh fish and when I spot a red snapper I suggest we should try this. I order it with crab fried rice and garlic and pepper sauce. We both love it and feeling really full enjoy a few beers before bidding each other goodnight.Läs mer

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    Hua Hin

    28 februari 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    My plan is for the beach today, but when I make my way to the local one its not that great. I met a guy called Damon last night and we've arranged to meet up this morning. He tells me the beach by his hotel is beautiful so a short tuc tuc ride brings us onto Khao Takiab beach. It's not the most beautiful beach but it's long and there's quite a large surf here. Hua hin seems the place where a lot of Thai people from Bangkok come as its only a few hours drive from Bangkok so is the perfect place for a little break by the sea. Throughout the day I ait and watch the Thais being given surfing lessons and I'm shocked at how good they are. I smashed one my big toe on a raised paving stone about a week ago and while I'm sat in a deckchair on the beach an older lady comes along and offers to sort it out. I can't believe I'm sat on a beach having my nails painted, but she does a grand job and you can't even see where the nails come off. I jump the little local bus back, it's basically a tuc tuc that anyone can get on and off along the way and costs 15baht compared to 200 baht if we'd taken one privately. We agree to meet for dinner and in the afternoon I go for a massage and once again feel like I've been beaten up. My shoulder is so painful but I think it's more to do with my injury than her technique. Damon and I order Thai in the evening and its that spicy I can hardly eat it but I've tried a few new dishes now and really liked the spicy beef salad. Murphys bar is closed today and next door is a place called Buckleys the girl in there is so lovely and very good at pool so when Damon suggests he's good I decide to take him here. As we're sat down a young girl comes round with flowers and even though we say no Damon says she's worth more than a 50 baht flower the young girl says ok 100 baht . She is so sharp he concedes and I end up going home with a rose.Läs mer

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    Stranded at sea

    27 februari 2022, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    I catch the early ferry to Chumpon today it leaves the harbour at 1015 and within 30 minutes of being at sea we hit something. There is the most terrible noise and then the engines are cut off. I make sure I know where the life jackets are and head out to the aft of the ferry to see whats going on. It seems something is caught in the propeller and with a small buoy 2 guys jump in with a machete to see if they can see what it is. There is no way id be jumping in that water with all the sharks ive seen over the past couple of weeks It's the most craziest of situations as pretty much everybody on the ferry is clinging to a plastic bag to be sick into as the ferry rocks away sure enough within half an hour we are back on coarse and the captain makes an announcement we are going to be an hour late into chumpon but I have no worries as I'm pretty sure that the buses will wait for us. We board the bus for tge 4 hour journey and I'm more than glad to find that my seat reclines and with my neck pillow managed to grab a couple of hours sleep just as I wake we pull into a service station where you load a card with 100 baht about £2.20 and when you finish take it back to the counter to get your change. Back on the bus and the mountains really make me glad I'm back on the mainland and a lot closer to the North. The bus randomly drops us on the side of the road and when I get Google maps up I'm only 9 minutes from my hostel so I pick up my bags bid farewell to Claire and walk. I literally check in and drop my bags. I've Googled for a place that might be showing the Liverpool game. Murphys bar says it open till 2am and it's literally around the corner so I head there. Very disappointed as they are closing at 10pm but I get chatting to a couple who own a property here and they say the only place that might have it on is father Ted's and am disappointed again as they also won't be showing it. Looks like streaming ir again.Läs mer

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    Road to nowhere

    26 februari 2022, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    I take myself for my usual caffeine fix before walking to shark Bay. It's a 35 minute walk and it's still quite overcast so it's perfect for walking. I always say you see so much more when you're walking. There are no pavements anywhere on the islands in Thailand as the roads are just left for motorbikes and tuk tuks. And you're in as much danger as actually being on a scooter. I wander down the windy roads and once again Google maps has sent me on a wild goose chase. I can see the beach through a little resort entrance but when I look at the map it's telling me to go up the hill and I guess this is the public entrance but as I reach the top I wander down the steps it brings me to a rocky outreach. I retrace my steps and a Thai guy points me in the right direction but I end up on private resort that's never reopened since covid. I stroll through and eventually find a space to climb down to the beach. I literally have the beach to myself and enjoy the time reading my book and having quiet time. When I return to my bungalow I'm still unsure whether to head back to phi phi or to go North first. There's only one thing for it I toss a coin and the outcome is to head North. I book my ferry and bus to Hua Hin and am kind of glad to be heading to the mainland. As I walk down for dinner the birds are flying in huge swarms and eventually come to rest all together on one line under a shelter and I wonder if this is a sign it will rain. I opt for pasta tonight and really enjoy it gnocchi with Gorgonzola. Next stop is my local and when I order a beer the Thai guy gives me two 10 baht coins automatically so I can play pool. The other guys walk past and join me for a beer as this will be our last night all together and I have loved their company it makes me feel young at heart being around young people. The night finishes in the Leo bar with dancing and just as I'm leaving the island I'm starting to fall in love with it.Läs mer

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    Visiting temples

    25 februari 2022, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Feeling half asleep but happy with the 6-0 score i go into the bathroom and as im perched on the loo i see something quite big run under the sink i need to make investigations as im unable to move and im relieved to see its a big ghekko. The reality of island life isnt always the pretty beaches and clear blue seas For some reason I haven't "clicked" with this island like I have the others I've been to. I don't know whether it's because I'm the other end of the island or the fact there's not really anyone my age here. I think I will give it another night but potentially heading out to Hui in on Sunday/Monday. I go local for coffee and breakfast this morning and am pleasantly surprised with the coffee maybe things are looking up I've had a lie in this morning, felt I had the worst hangover yet feel like I've got the hangover from hell. I walk up to the temple and then down along the beach. I really love the beach here and keep asking myself why I haven't made a connection here. Along the beach I waltz into the pool bar and there is a guy that is a little bit too cocky for his own good credit where it'd due he's really good but when i beat him he says if we'd played more games he'd of beaten me. That's why I go into every game not thinking I'm going to win because then every result is a bonus. Shortly after Clare appears and after a brief catch up she heads off to catch up on sleep after diving for the past few days. I leave and sit on the beach for a good hour on the biggest swing I could literally lie down on it. I read my book and have a huge feeling of calmness wash over me. I'm in such a good place at the moment with no stress apart from choosing where I go next. I'm so blessed but also I'm very proud of myself. Its really difficult for me to live without a routine or plan but I'm really embracing that freedom. I have a quick stop in the rasta bar on the way back and love the use of wood creating different levels of different chill in this jungle oasis. I have a couple of games of pool and return to my bungalow to shower and change. In the evening I eat along the beach and even treat myself to pudding before meeting the crew for a few beers. Its Kates last night and we bid our goodbyes as she is making her way back to Bangkok. As i walk back the police pass me but it makes me giggle because earlier today i took a photo of the police station Another relatively early night for me leads to very little sleep as tonight the grasshoppers are in full chorus and the noise is so intenseI resort to putting my noise cancelling headphones on and eventually drift off to sleep.Läs mer

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    Koh nang yuan

    24 februari 2022, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    I am overjoyed although a little tired after watching the red men win 6-0. Kate messages me to see if I'd like to go to the viewpoint with her today. I kindly accept the offer and after taking a short ride on the bike we pull down onto the beach to catch a longboat to the island . It's really windy today and as we make the passage I look for the life jacket and ask Kate if she is a strong swimmer. As the waves crash over the boat we gate soaked and even with my sea legs I am glad to reach the other side. We arrive to the most beautiful beach as once again two eater inlets meet between the 2 islands. Its midday when we arrive and rather than climb the viewpoint In the midday sun we choose to chill with a coconut on the beach. Fully refreshed we make the assent to the top. After reading reviews about people queuing for 30 minutes to take photos I'm pleasantly surprised to find very few people here and I can sit and enjoy the view without someone asking me to move for a photo. Its back to the beach where I'm shocked at how much coral is washed up on shore, probably one of the reasons why Koh Tao is so popular for diving. Some of the coral still retains its colour and its very apparent the effect of global warming is having on such a beautiful natural environment. As I'm lying on the beach a big chunk of polystyrene hits me and I collect this and the surrounding rubbish around me before heading back to the boat with Kate who thankfully has managed to delay it for an hour. Back on dry land and thankfully less of a perilous crossing we go to a little Thai restaurant and have a late dinner. The evening is spent in the Leo bar where we meet up with Claire and Romain and joined a little later by Alvino. As we're sat at the table Aaron appears at the bar and comes over to give me a hug. I love the way my paths cross with these wonderful people. Claire buys me a mojito and it really blows my head off, I really should stick to the Leo's. I make my excuses and stumble home a little worse for wear.Läs mer

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    Leaving koh phagnan

    23 februari 2022, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    I have a ferry booked to leave at 1pm and when I wake the rain is torrential but I manage to make my way to bubbas coffee shop for my morning fix. I make my way back to the hostel running in my bare feet because trying to run on flip-flops is nion impossible. Matty is at the hostel and I have to say him and Sonny have made my stay here so special welcoming me in to the local way of life and Sonny even calls me to say goodbye. They have provided entertainment every night and I love the fact they invite everyone to participate which makes for easy travelling when you turn up somewhere new and know no-one. It's like being in Thai scouseland. Just before I'm about to leave matty tells me 2 of the girls have tested positive for covid and i do a test but all is ok. When I arrive at the Dock there is a guy who is like a one man band playing tunes that range from Bob marley to the eagles and even as I depart I have a smile on my face. The high speed catamaran crossing takes just over an hour and even though its choppy we arrive safely. Koh Tao is the island where people go to dive but due to my sinus issues I'm unable to do this. Its a five minute walk to my hostel and after the routine of passport copying I'm handed the keys to my private bungalow. It will be nice to have my own room and toilet for a change. Bungalows here are very basic wooden chalets with a fan to keep you cool and a sheet on the bed to cover you up. I sit on my balcony and a guy on the balcony opposite says "hello Fi" Its Tom from the beach n PhiPhi and i was Watts apping with his mum to tell her hed be ok. Shortly after arriving Kate messages and we arrange to meet at one of the beach bars. Claire Evandro and Romain , from the hostel are here and are doing diving courses but we enjoy a few drinks and a bite to eat while watching the fire show. The bars here are open till 1am but it's an early one for me as I have set an alarm to watch the liverpool game.Läs mer

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