A 73-day adventure by Rosie Read more
  • 71footprints
  • 3countries
  • 73days
  • 500photos
  • 3videos
  • 36.8kkilometers
  • 34.9kkilometers
  • Day 74

    Back home

    June 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Just a final entry to round off the trip and get us back to Oz. We had a good trip home…as good as air travel can be these days…the security people in CDG actually smile and were human, and both flights were easy and smooth. Good to be home, and love the cool weather. And on arrival got an invitation to have dinner with Peter and Louise as they had a beautiful roast beef and had been stood up by guests…so we were happy to help out, as hadn’t thought of food at all at that stage. Lovely evening catching up with them.

    Today I gave Amr his haircut, Hartley will be relieved to know…And I got a new phone, so all is well with the world, and looking forward to seeing everyone.
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  • Day 71

    In Paris, last day in Europe

    June 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This ended up being a really good day, but wasn’t sure it would be, as we went to bed so late (doing wordle at 1am), and Amr of course just rolled over and slept, but I was all hyped and didn’t sleep well…so I was rather a slow starter…this was the strike day in France, but when Amr went to check if the RER was running from the airport into the city, all was totally normal….(forgot to mention that we staying at an airport hotel (another Ibis!) which is right at Terminal 3, as are other hotels, so handy just to walk directly to them)…so we ignored the possibility of strike complications and had a great day in Paris…in fact there was no sign of any strike anywhere that we could see.

    So we got the RER to St Michel, had coffee and croissants there for old times sake, then we were off on a shopping mission for the things Amr had been waiting to do…this is where I lagged a bit, as I am not a shopper, but I needed to stay together, as without phone, I had no means of communication if we got lost from each other…normal situation 20 years ago, but now it feels so vulnerable without a phone!! Pathetic!

    Anyway, Amr was patient about me not being enthusiastic, and we coped…stopped for a drink near the Opera…our favourite place was full with lunchers so we went to another nearby, not fancy looking, but when we had 2 glasses of wine got a bill for €38!!! Bit of a change from Spain where you get 2 glasses of Rioja, plus complimentary tapas, for 3 or 4 euros!! And this time we didn’t even get chips or olives…anyway, just a Paris experience…then I sat on a chair in the shade (hot day by afternoon) in the Tuileries with kindle, while Amr could walk round, explore, and find if we could go to Chez Denise tonight…success there…we could have early dinner there at 6.30 outside..perfect as we need an early night as our flight leaves at 9 in the morning…so good to be right at the airport. So we had a perfect meal at Chez Denise, house terrine, kidneys in mustard sauce and an Ile Flottante, all shared…yum, and we know how manage their massive helpings. So off to bed, big flights home tomorrow.
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  • Day 70

    Last day, flying to Paris

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A quiet restful day…cloudless morning, and we met Omnia and had churros and chocolate, fresh OJ and coffee in the favourite place near where we used to stay…where you can watch the churros being made, squeezed through a machine and done with great dexterity! So fresh… then we all walked to the park near the royal Palace and sat there and whiled away the time reading.

    Set off about midday and walked through plaza de España and up the Gran Via to the basque tapas restaurant where we slowly had drinks and delicious food. Then a walk back to the hotel where we had checked out, but left bags, and picked them up and got the metro to the airport. Very efficient metro ride with only one easy change. Now waiting for flight, so will put this up now, as we won’t get to the hotel in Paris till quite late…and yes Hartley, Amr badly needs a haircut but insisted on waiting until we get home….he’s now all fluffy at the sides like a koala!! He has twice had Spanish haircuts before, but not this time!
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  • Day 69

    Last full day in Spain

    June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A much better day! In fact a great day…Have got used to the fact that I don’t have a phone for the moment and it doesn’t get me down any more.. First we had our usual breakfast at the local bakery, then met Omnia at 10.30 and walked via the scenic route to the Reina Sofia museum, which has mostly modern art (most famous being Picasso’s Guernica) and some Salvador Dalis, Kandinsky…and also photography, architectural designs and drafts…it again is a large museum, and after completing one floor Omnia and I declared enough…

    The scenic route we took there was along the beautiful tree line boulevards leading by the Prado and on to Atocha…so lovely walking under the huge trees, and maybe it was because it was Sunday but some seemed to be closed to cars for the day..even better…after the museum we got a table along the street across from Atocha and had a little lunch - bocadillos - just right, then went still by scenic route to the huge park del Buen Retiro…it is huge and beautiful, and on a sunny warm Sunday everyone was out, children playing, boats on the large pond, sitting picnicking under the trees…we found a shady spot under a tree and read…(at least I have my kindle!)..all very pleasant and restful..

    Finally we roused and walked via the crystal palace here …it was built in 1887, and was originally to house some flora from the Phillipines which was then a Spanish colony, and it was part of a fair…it is still intact and beautifully maintained and now is used for modern art exhibitions by the Reina Sofia museum. Then we walked up to plaza Santa Ana, and had a little dinner at an outdoor cafe in the adjacent Plaza San Angel…delicious food, and we discovered that it was an outlet from the very nice hotel in the Plaza (where Cathy once stayed)…no wonder the food was excellent! And not expensive…

    So very happy, we walked back to Sol where we lined up at an Italian gelateria (helado italiano) for a yum ice cream. Now back, and sort of packed…we check out tomorrow, but don’t fly out to Paris till the evening…we don’t leave for Sydney till Wednesday morning, but had allowed an extra day in case of any problems - flight cancellations etc…and would you believe it, France has declared a general strike on Tuesday, so thank goodness we go on Monday…and we have already checked in to the flight, and have boarding passes, so hope all is smooth!!
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  • Day 68

    Not a great day!

    June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Just a short entry so that I can get to sleep…I wasn’t feeling 100% this morning (nothing serious, no worry) but it was made worse because in a packed metro my phone was stolen….must have been very skilful because it just fitted with my kindle, and sunnies on top, in a small shoulder bag…but it was the classic situation, and you feel so violated, plus no phone. Can only say that it was better to happen in the last 5 days than the first! Will survive till we get home, and my phone contract only had a month to go…got to look on the bright side!

    Anyway, we went to the Thyssen museum…wonderful paintings, classic and impressionist…no madonnas and bambini! Could have done without some of the modern, but not too much. And again the weather held out…we have been just amazingly lucky right through, except a bit rainy in the beginning round Pamplona…each day they predict thunderstorms in the evening, sometimes they eventuate and sometimes not, but never at a vital time! Then the next morning dawns bright and clear. Just photos of more beautiful buildings.
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  • Day 67

    A Day in Toledo

    June 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    This is so late…it’s almost midnight, but I do want to quickly give a rundown of our day. We had tickets for the train to Toledo at 11.20, but thought we’d get tickets for the return when there, not sure when we’d feel like coming back….so we met Omnia at Sol and walked down to Atocha…only a half hour ride, but not having a return was a mistake, as all the trains were completo till 8.40….this was later than we’d planned, but no problem really…we could eat there, and it is light till 10.

    Anyway, we had a lovely day. The train station, which is very moorish in architecture, like quite a lot of buildings especially in southern Spain, think Granada! Anyway, beautiful and exotic, and from there you walk (or you can get a bus) across the river and up,up into the city. It is full of many narrow streets, all winding and nothing flat, and nothing smooth…so we climbed up and down all day, but it was worth it. Amr and I had been there after the camino in 2018 (and also in 1994) and Omnia had also been there, but we really enjoyed the feel of the city. There were banners on many buildings everywhere and we never really found what they were in aid of, but it added to the feeling of festivity.

    We first made our way to the enormous cathedral…very beautiful and as always with lots of history. That took quite a while with an audio guide and after we sat in a square and had a bit to eat…Omnia and I had gazpacho, delicious, and Amr a salad, and we shared some croquetas and calimari…then we made our way to the El Greco museum, which we did by circuitous route, but finally found it via the Jewish quarter and the synagogue and Sephardic museum. The El Greco museum is in the house and garden where he lived and is very charming, and the best paintings we thought were his portraits of the apostles…

    Then we wafted back vaguely in the direction of the station and stopped for a drink at a bar right up high looking down at the countryside…so beautiful . By the time we got back I was actually tired…and Amr and I got the metro back to our hotel, and we stopped at the bar on our corner, our local, and had a drink - I had a tonic - and we shared a salad…just what we needed, as we hadn’t eaten before we left as at the bar they said the kitchen didn’t open till 8…stupid at such a touristy town! Now after midnight and must go to bed…
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  • Day 66

    Thursday in Madrid

    June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    A fairly quiet day…we are winding down, and in a week will be home! We have a breakfast ritual - mandarins and a banana in the room, then finish off with a pastry and coffee at our nearby bakery…lovely! We had decided today would be Prado day..we have been there several times before, but hard to come to Madrid without a visit. We had a longish walk, as we went via Atocha, the main train station to see about trains to Toledo where we plan to go tomorrow…that was a bit fraught as, as usual, they are renovating and parts are closed off or with scaffolding etc…but it is a rather gorgeous station, with a beautiful inside garden…or green house like area…anyway, trains are quite frequent, and we are going, although there are as usual predictions of rain.

    Omnia had calls she had committed to and we couldn’t meet till later in the afternoon, so Amr and I wandered in the Prado, enjoying the art but have to admit that I was getting weary with the slow museum walk! It was fun though, and after we walked back in the direction of Sol and had a drink and sustenance…shared some stuffed peppers which I love, but slightly not quite perfect as they had battered and deep fried them rather than just the naked peppers, but they did have a divine capsicum tasting sauce…

    Soon after that we met Omnia and it started to rain, heavily enough that we, and many others, sheltered in the Apple Store! When it eased we went to a cafe and all had very healthy and yum smoothies and then walked to the UniQlo store where I bought a black cardigan like the green famous one that I lost and then found in Rome! It will be very useful!

    After that we went to the restaurant where Amr and I ate on our first night…lovely tasty dishes, small and shareable! The highlight was a seafood paella which we had eyed before, but needed more than 2 people to share it…it was just delicious, and I forgot to take a photo till it was almost demolished…but you will get the gist. Not many photos, just a peaceful day, and you can’t stop admiring the streets with such beautiful buildings, and the little narrow streets that are so charming, and the beautiful parks.
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  • Day 65

    Madrid, such a wonderful city

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today we had no time restrictions! We woke and took our time, finally set off and found a bakery nearby with pastries and coffee…perfect. Wandered towards Sol, then I returned to get my kindle as we planned to find a park bench later to have kindle time…then we met up and walked along the road leading to our usual hotel to find the churreria we loved, and it didn’t disappoint..fab churros, coffee, juice…so we were sustained and walked via the opera house, royal palace to the park and sat in the shade with kindles. I wore one of my new sneakers, the ones with purple trim, and am happy to say they were wonderfully comfy, and could walk in them all day…

    We were watching the time as Omnia was arriving at 1.30 we thought, but turned out to be 2.30, so we walked through the Plaza de España and up the Gran Via, a major road with superb apartment buildings, and shops…the architecture here is just wonderful…beautiful, well kept buildings…and in the small streets too. It is sunny and perfect, hot in the direct (and very bright) sun, but very comfortable. We found a Basque tapas bar and restaurant that Amr remembered along the Gran Via, and had a drink and tapas there to keep us going…so lovely. Then had a visit to UniQlo, also along the Gran Via!! I looked and resisted, but Amr bought some shorts!

    I think we then returned to the hotel, as Omnia wasn’t going to be ready till about 5.30, and we all met up then in Puerta del Sol! Lovely reunion, and we walked round the lovely streets, into the Plaza Mayor (which is a very good Plaza Mayor) and through the narrow streets with many eateries. Found our way to Rosi La Loca where we had booked for dinner.

    Rosi La Loca is a crazy place where Amr and I have been several times before…it is over the top in decor, and fabulous food. And you certainly need to book as it is very popular. The only irritating thing was that the menu was only online and in the lower floor where we were you had to go on their wifi as there wasn’t reception otherwise…took ages to get the right password etc…but finally ordered, and had amazing meal. They fuse all food cultures..we had a baba ganouch (I know that is spelt wrongly), salad with mysterious crunchy bits, tataki tuna (very Japanese touch), octopus, chicken balls in a curry sauce, and finished with a version of cheesecake (very soft) with fruit and crunch…all SOOO good! Great day, and I think the Prado tomorrow!
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  • Day 64

    The Camino is over…now in Madrid

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A varied, happy and successful day! We got up reasonably leisurely, no bags to be packed up and ready in the lobby by 8am, and we are now on our own, no camino back up! Rachel and Richard had left before six, and we had breakfast and left at about 8.30 to wander down to the station, not sure if the tickets on my phone was adequate…the email said to print them, but couldn’t believe it was necessary as absolutely everything is done online - menus you have to get from the QR square on the table etc…and of course it worked perfectly…was smug watching so many people all fumbling with their many pieces of paper…anyway, out TGV equivalent train left a misty grey morning in Santiago and zoomed to Madrid, only 2 stops along the way…through many tunnels..it just ploughed through the countryside and arrived at Madrid at about 2pm. Many camino people on the train who will now disperse into normal lives. First we went through hilly wooded countryside which I think was still Galicia, then it turned into flatter grain fields and vast open spaces.

    We arrived at Chamartín which is not in the centre, but with the very efficient and user friendly metro here (which we have used many times before) we got to the stop near our hotel with no trouble, a new area for us on purpose to see different parts, but only a 20 minute walk from Puerta del Sol, and surrounded with many bars and eateries, and very pleasant. So we are settled into our Ibis - a spacious room, comfortable bed, opening window and everything works! And we are here for 6 nights…luxury, after having to pack up each day for so long! And we have our voucher for a welcome drink being Gold Accor members!!

    So we set off to test the waters. Had a drink and tapas at a nearby bar as we hadn’t eaten, then walked down to Sol, the hub of the city. Suddenly we are out of camino land and in a city with all the global shops, restaurant chains etc, but such a vibrant and buzzing vibe. The weather held out…there was a little light rain while we were having a meal later, but nothing that impacted us. Menacing black clouds did not materialise into thunderstorms…and tomorrow has no raindrops on the prediction.

    We saw my favourite pasteleria where we may have breakfast one day, and also found Rosi La Loca, a favourite restaurant, crazy but with delicious food, and booked for tomorrow night when Omnia will be here. She arrives tomorrow afternoon. So we went and did a little shopping in El Corte Ingles, a department store…I bought some sneakers…my walking shoes are falling apart, they would barely have made it if I had walked all the distance I had intended (they were the ones I walked the 900 kms from Vézelay in 2021, very comfortable but definitely on their last legs)….and Amr went to the VAT refund section and the woman he dealt with had a camino bracelet on (she had just done the Portuguese one) and they immediately bonded about walking the camino and we parted with hand shakes and blowing kisses…that is what the camino does!

    Then on our way back to the hotel we also stopped at a Decathlon store as Amr wanted to look and check some things, and I ended up getting another pair of amazing sneakers!!! (And he couldn’t find what he was looking for!). So we continued back and stopped at Gran Via to have a drink and a sit down…very nice, but the wind did blow up and it looked threatening, so we moved inside and ended up eating there…it was wonderful…now in Madrid we are out of the world of Peregrino menus, and this place had an array of small plate choices, but not all the jamon and cheese variations we have been having, but fusion food, and there were wok cooked vegetables with soy and sesame, and I had some seared tuna with guacamole and seaweed..we just realised how we crave some Asian flavours!! So that was not planned, but just wonderful. Now back, showered and ready for bed…
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  • Day 63

    Relaxing rest day in Santiago

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A lovely quiet day today. Cool to start, then quite hot and humid, and another thunderstorm predicted for later in the afternoon. First thing after breakfast Amr went with our sticks and other stuff to the big post office nearby. And it was SO efficient! They are geared to do this - we are not the first people to want to ship stuff back home, and they have special boxes for poles, even will ship bicycles.. and print out your name and address so no mistake!! And all completed in 15 minutes, and half an hour later Amr got an email from Australia post saying 2 parcels were on their way to him from Spain!!

    So we spent the morning wandering round the old haunts, went to the pilgrims office to get our Compostela, and went to the 12 noon pilgrim mass. At 11.15 Amr and I were lucky to get seats in the side transept, R and R were standing in the main body …it is a long stand, but so many people, and this happens every day as a new wave of pilgrims arrive! It is always a moving experience, and three times out of three we have experienced the swinging of the botafumeiro, the incense burner, which is so special, and sitting in the side aisle it is the best view, as it swings in that direction…you almost wonder if it will hit you, or the roof, and that is really high!

    Met some of the girls from Albury, one still sick and needing advice, and a drink and tapas. We found the best route to the station, as tomorrow we catch the train at 10.20 to Madrid, and a new adventure! Will include some photos from last night…so delicious! And we have sorted out a place to eat tonight…still no storm, and it’s almost 4.30…hope there’s not a deluge when we set out to eat tonight!

    Just adding that again we had a great dinner, and our farewell dinner with Rachel and Richard…a different restaurant but again amazing…all share dishes and varied and delicious. Have said goodbye to R and R…they leave very early before 6 to get to the airport, and we go to the station to get the train…the end of a lovely pilgrimage with them…very special!….and the thunderstorm never happened!
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