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Camino Portuguese

September - October 2023
A 28-day adventure by Mark Read more
  • 24footprints
  • 2countries
  • 28days
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  • 11videos
  • 18.7kkilometers
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  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 25–27

    Last day in Spain

    October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    The holiday is over now. In the hotel room trying to get sorted for the 6:30am flight to Paris tomorrow.
    Had a good night in the San Martin Pinario Albergue, although took a while to get to sleep. Nice breakfast, where we chatted to the Swedish fellas.
    Had another look in the Cathedral then went to a Mass an Australian fella, who is volunteering at a Pilgrim support place, invited us to.
    We had the Pilgrims' menu lunch at the hotel and once again chatted with the Swedish fellas!
    We went to the Cathedral museum and then did a guided tour, which was really good because you go up onto the roof of the Cathedral for nearly an hour, and the views were fantastic. Probably would've been better if the tour wasn't solely in Spanish! Nevertheless it was a nice way to finish our Camino.

    A few things we noticed.
    There were a lot of Germans and Americans. Also a fair few Dutch and Danish.
    We didn't meet many Australians until the last few days.
    Not that many people spoke English outside of the cities.
    Not many 4WDs, and most cars were manual.
    Meals can be confusing because certain foods are only served at certain times of the day.
    The pastries were better in Portugal.
    Water isn't served with meals, but wine is, and people drink beer in the morning, but generally only one or two.
    Spain has the siesta from 2-4. The cafes and bars re-open and get really busy around 8, then quieten right down again around 9:30.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 24

    Santiago de Compostela!

    October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We're here! After a short 7km day starting at 8:10, we walked into the Cathedral at 9:35. There are I think four entrance doors to the Cathedral, and coming from Portugal traditionally you enter from the South door, so that is what we did. We didn't know that there was a 9:30am Pilgrims' Mass, and the security would only let you in at that time if you're going to the Mass, so we thought we may as well go in. We were glad we did because it was a short Mass, and afterwards the botafumeiro (large incense burner) was swung, which is always good to see.
    We then got our Compostelas from the pilgrim office and had a bit of a walk around. Most of the people we had met over the last few weeks had arrived a day or two before, so had already gone home. We did catch up with a few people we had met over the last week or so, which is nice, and had lunch with Derya.
    Had a look in the Cathedral, then got tapas for dinner, after having a big lunch.
    Tomorrow we have an easy day around Santiago, then to the hotel next to the airport tomorrow night.

    Well our Camino Portuguese is over! As last time it's a bit sad to finish, but we're looking forward to getting home. Some days are good, some not so good, but it is a simple life for a few weeks, and we really like that. And you meet some nice people from all over the world.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 23

    Walk to Milladoiro

    October 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Well not long to go now. Only a 7km walk in the morning to Santiago de Compostela, so should get there fairly early then try and get to the noon Pilgrims' Mass.
    A very nice night in the Monastery albergue last night, and met some nice people at the communal dinner, including German sisters, a Turkish/American woman, a Kiwi teacher and two of three Swedish twin brothers. Dinner was very nice, just salad and soup, but the hospi's were very hospitable 🤔. The night could have been better, but we went to a half hour Mass at the Monastery church, and a blessing afterwards which was nice, but then a volunteer took about an hour, using Google translate, to tell us about the life of St Anthony and then give us a tour of the Monastery. Would've been nice to just sit around and relax for a while before dinner.
    Today was a bit cool and cloudy, nice weather for walking. We met an Australian couple from Melbourne and chatted to them on and off all day. Also chatted to Derya, the Turkish/American, a few times.
    Got to the albergue around 3 or 4. It's pretty good, with sheets and towels and a nice kitchen and common area. There's a cafe next door so we might just get a hamburger or something for dinner.
    Last night in bunk beds! and as pilgrims! so Santiago tomorrow morning and then we'll be tourists for a couple of days 😔    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 22

    Boat trip to Padron

    October 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Writing this post at 2:40 in the afternoon, waiting for the San Antonio Monastery at Herbon, near Padron, to open.
    We left the hotel at around 8 and walked the 10 minutes down to the dock to catch the 8:30 boat to Padron. It was a cool and cloudy morning, but luckily no rain as it was a smallish, open boat and we would've been soaked if it had rained. The trip took about 1:15 and covered over 30km, so it was a lot easier than walking all day.
    It worked out well because we had some seafood with dinner last night, and it didn't agree with Lynn's stomach, so she didn't have a great sleep and is pretty tired today.
    We said goodbye to a few more people then had a look around Padron, and walked the 3k to the Monastery albergue. Padron is only 25k from Santiago, and some people are walking there straight away, but we had a couple of extra days and have an albergue booked tomorrow night about 10k from Santiago.
    So a very easy day today, 15k tomorrow then 10k into Santiago on Wednesday morning.
    p.s. Just noticed a small blister on the top of the second toe on my left foot! Don't know how long it's been there but we've only walked a few km's today 🤔    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    1
    Day 21

    Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

    October 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Another hot night in the albergue with all the windows closed as usual, although didn't have a bad sleep and woke up when the lights were turned on at 7:30.
    Got away just after sunrise at about 8:30 and it was a really nice walk alongside a stream in the shade, a lot like in the Blue Mountains, for the first few km's.
    It was a 25km walk, but not nearly as hard as yesterday and the temp was in the mid 20's, unlike yesterday's 30's.
    It's funny how the brain works. Yesterday with the headache, my foot didn't hurt at all. Today without the headache, my foot was sore again, although not as sore as the other day.
    Got to the hotel around 4, then went for a swim at a beach that reminded us of Shoal Bay.
    Up early tomorrow for the 30km boat trip to Padron ⛵    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 20

    Pontevedra to Armenteira - Variante Espi

    September 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Tough day today. Woke up with a stupid migraine, so it took a while to get going. Finally left around 10, still feeling a little off colour, but thought we'd take it easy and see how we went. Unfortunately it wasn't a good day to start late, with a long, hilly stage and 32C forecast.
    So we got going, and took it slowly and we took an alternative route called the Variante Espiritual which veers off to the East of the other route towards the coast. It takes 3 days as opposed to 2 on the traditional route and they meet up in Padron, 25km from Santiago.
    It was a hard slog, hot and not much shade and most of the day we seemed to be going uphill, and a lot of that very steeply. We finally made it to the village at around 5:45, had a drink then had another 500m to the albergue. Then had to walk there and back to the cafe for dinner! It was supposed to be a 21km day, but 25km were clocked up on the app.
    Most of the people we have met have taken the traditional route, but we met two of the couples, one American, one Danish, at dinner, and will probably bump into them the next couple of days.
    Supposed to be an easier day tomorrow, so looking forward to that.

    p.s. at an old church we stopped at a wedding was about to start so we stayed for about half an hour to see the bride arrive.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    11
    Day 19

    Redondela to Pontevedra

    September 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Took a couple of unnecessary dtours today so ended up being around 25km, rather than the advertised 19k. As yesterday, a bit of a groundhog day Early start, well, early-ish start, a bit after 8, but still darkish because sunrise isn't until around 8:30. Foggy morning again and a nice but hilly walk through towns and a lot through forests - once again a lot of Eucalyptus.
    I have picked up a bit of a foot injury, according to Dr Google it's an extensor tendon (on top of the foot and up towards the ankle) strain. Had it now for a bit over 2 days. Hurts a bit early on then it's not too bad. Lynn is still going strong 👍.
    Pontevedra has a nice centre with a big square and narrow streets going off in every direction. We had a look around and said g'day to the Scottish fellas and a few others, probably for the last time. Went to the pilgrims Mass at 7:30 then had some dinner. There was actually too much choice so it took a while to find somewhere.
    Start the Espiritual Variante tomorrow    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    112111
    Day 18

    Porrino to Redondela

    September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Got off to another early start for the 18k or so to Redondela. Nothing much out of the ordinary, a bit of groundhog day... get up early, start walking, stop for coffee and something to eat, walk a bit more, maybe stop for something else to eat, look for the albergue, check in, have a shower, then have a look around town, and usually have a chat to some of the people we have met. Spain seems to have more of a siesta than Portugal, and most shops close at 2:30 until 4:30, so you have to eat early or late. We noticed last night that a lot of people seem to have a big meal for lunch, and something smaller for dinner. So today we changed it up and decided to have the menu del day for lunch, which was entree, main, drink, coffee and bread for 12€. Then went to a couple of bars across the street from the albergue and had some wine and tapas for dinner. Seemed to work pretty well. People just sit around chatting having a wine, beer or coffee and something small to eat. Then at around 9:30 it all quietens down again.
    The Scottish lads are in our albergue tonight, so Lynn has been having a good chat with them.
    Tomorrow we're off to Pontevedra, where the two routes seperate, so it will be the last time we will see a lot of the people we have met.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 17

    Tui to Porrino

    September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    First time we were up and out walking before sunrise, but it was still around 8 o'clock. Spain is 1 hour ahead of Portugal.
    It was nice walking through the old part of town while it was foggy and not yet light. It stayed foggy for a couple of hours and it was a nice walk mainly on dirt tracks through forests, crossing a few Roman bridges out in the middle of nowhere.
    Staying in a double room at the Pension Maracaibo, which is on the main shopping/restaurant street. Went for a walk down the street after dinner and bumped into the Scottish lads and a few of the other travelling circus of peregrinos we keep catching up with.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 16

    Adios Portugal, Hola Spain!

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Rubiaes (Portugal) to Tui (Spain)
    Another short 18km stage today from Portugal into Spain. Had a nice communal meal last night and a good sleep in the Frida Kahlo room. Nice walk with a cool, foggy start, but it did warm up to the mid 20's and was fairly humid, so glad to get to across the bridge over the river Minho into Tui. In a nice albergue, but not a private room. 5 beds but only one other fella, a cyclist who is already asleep, so hopefully won't be a bad night.
    Had a walk around town, and as usual bumped into a few of the peregrinos we have been seeing for the last few days. Already noticed less pavers on the road and footpath, so hopefully be a bit smoother walking, although it hasn't been as bad as people make out.
    Looking like another warm, sunny day coming up.    Read more

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