The New England States

September 2022
A 29-day adventure by Andrew Jerome Read more
  • 28footprints
  • 4countries
  • 29days
  • 179photos
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  • 41.6kkilometers
  • 37.0kkilometers
  • Day 11

    Ogunquit to Bar Harbor

    September 12, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Even though we had a long drive, we still had a decent sleep-in before packing up the car for the drive to Bar Harbor today. Our first stop was the town of Kennebunkport which was close by. We liked it a lot - it had a more nautical look than Ogunquit, and it wasn’t as large. We even managed to find a good coffee house, where I had a 4 shot iced coffee. Yikes!

    There are two ways to reach Bar Harbor and today we took the longer, and more scenic route. It’s also the route that has no tollgates! We had some light rain on the way, which has been the only plain weather we’ve had since starting our holiday too.

    We arrived in the town of Rockland for lunch which is a very edgy, grungy kind of town but decided to try elsewhere for lunch since a lot of places were closed anyway. Ted and I have developed a real love of diners since we don’t have them back home, and went to a quaint diner in the nearby town of Rockport. The lunch was marred somewhat when I tried to enter the men’s restroom and broke the door frame in the process. I was very apologetic but the waitress wasn’t bothered at all! Either way, we left a larger tip than usual!

    As we continued up the coast, we stopped at a beautiful town named Camden, which was another port city. We spent some time walking along the waterfront and took plenty of photos. We’ve noticed there are an abundance of places selling lobster rolls (or lobster anything!), but $40 a pop is a bit much we thinks!

    When we arrived at our accommodation, we were very pleased with our cute little cabin. The owner was also wonderful in recommending the local sights, and said we could use the washing machine and dryer for free. After unloading our bags, we took the car into nearby Bar Harbor about ten minutes away not sure what to expect.

    To say the least, we love it. The town is a popular destination for cruise ships, and there is a huge abundance of shops, restaurants and tourists! We found a reasonable Thai restaurant for dinner but just the atmosphere of the town made it worthwhile. So far Maine has been wonderful with its port towns, Dutch Colonial architecture and friendly people. We are heading to nearby Acadia National Park tomorrow, which will be another National Park we can add to the list :-)
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  • Day 12

    Acadia National Park

    September 13, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After waking up this morning, we discovered that our cabin accommodation didn’t have any crockery or cutlery, so instead of having breakfast first, we made a quick trip to a nearby supermarket to stock up on even more supplies. When we returned, we spoke to the people in the cabin next to us, where their huge puppy jumped on Ted, covering him in mud in the process!

    When we returned to the room, we wasted time looking for the second key to the cabin, before thinking that maybe we were confusing it with our previous accommodation and there was never a second key! Our main plan for today was to visit nearby Acadia National Park, the sixth most visited national park in the United States.

    The weather today wasn’t perfect though, as the day was quite overcast. One of the places we enjoyed seeing the most was Jordan Pond, with a view of the North and South Bubbles in the background. We were a bit confused though, as we’d been driving on the Ring Road all morning and we still hadn’t seen the entry gate yet!

    We headed up the Cadillac Summit Road which we’d needed to pay an additional entry fee for, but it wasn’t quite what we’d expected as the cloudy weather overtook the view. We managed to get a few good pics before departing and were about to return to the accommodation when we saw a road indicating the way to a sandy beach.

    It wasn’t until we drove on the road for a while that we finally reached the actual entry to the park! The scenery on this side was different to what we’d already seen, which included a beach, and a rocky shore called Thunder Hole which is a small inlet, naturally carved out of the rocks, where the waves roll into.

    We headed back to the cabin before deciding to explore Bar Harbor again. This time we weren’t so lucky with parking, as it seemed like there were twice the number of people than yesterday, so we parked further away at a sports oval. Our first bad weather happened today as it rained consistently for a while. We stopped at the Beerworks restaurant for an unhealthy dinner (clam chowder and Mac and cheese) before walking back in the rain to the car. After returning to our cabin, we relaxed and dried off before bedtime.
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  • Day 13

    Bar Harbor to Ogunquit

    September 14, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today we ended up leaving earlier than expected, mainly due to going to bed early last night. After packing up the car, I cautiously went to check out with only one key, expecting to be asked where the other key was, but nothing was said by the receptionist so I counted our blessings and we departed!

    So far on this holiday we have been avoiding the freeways to save money until we faced the reality that the toll charges here are sometimes only $1, and nothing like the exorbitant toll charges we have back home! This means we returned to Ogunquit much faster than the drive from there took, as we were on the freeway as opposed to the coastal scenic route.

    Before getting to Ogunquit, we visited the city of Portland, which is where we were originally meant to be staying tonight. We headed straight to the waterfront area which was a collection of cafes and restaurants, with cobblestone streets. We explored the port before similarly heading to the downtown district, but found it to be less interesting as it was reminiscent of a lot of large cities.

    We thought we’d see more of Portland, so we drove out to the Portland Head Light, the oldest lighthouse in Maine. The weather out there was spectacular, as was the view of Portland. It seemed like the perfect place to have lunch, so we relaxed in the sunshine and got some vitamin D.

    We then continued onto Ogunquit and were pleasantly surprised that our cheaper hotel was actually better than our previous one. The walk to town is slightly further, but the room is bigger and more comfortable. Ted went to the supermarket to get some more supplies whilst I unpacked the car. We had planned to catch up with our friends Scott and Nate whom we’d met through mutual friends in Las Vegas a few years back, so we dressed up to go for dinner.

    Before dinner, we headed to the piano bar which was less crazy than before but still popular. We then tried the Maine Street bar which was mostly empty, before heading to the Italian restaurant nearby. It was wonderful seeing friends again after a long break from travelling, which has been our main focus on this holiday. The dinner was great, and Scott and Nate even kindly paid as they said we were the visitors.

    We have a tour booked tomorrow in Salem for 10am, so I set the alarm to avoid oversleeping. Massachusetts tomorrow!
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  • Day 14

    Ogunquit to Provincetown

    September 15, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    It was fortunate I set the alarm, because we were both sound asleep when it sounded. Sleeping in the room wasn’t completely easy due to the sound of people walking around upstairs, but it was nothing that earplugs couldn’t fix. Since we still haven’t acquired a taste for hotel coffee, we waited until we arrived in Salem before getting our caffeine fix. Fortunately coffee shops like those back home haven’t been difficult to find on this holiday!

    Our tour guide in Salem was a local named April, who gave a good mix of humour and knowledge during the tour. Even though a large emphasis of the tour was about the Salem Witch Trials, it was interesting to learn about the city’s early history too. Some of the sights we saw included: the “Witch House”, which was owned by Jonathan Corwin, who was called upon to investigate the witchcraft accusations, and is the only existing structure tied to the Salem witch trials; the First Church in Salem which was built in 1836; Burying Point Cemetery, which is right next to the Salem Witch Trials Memorial; and Ropes Mansion, a Georgian Colonial mansion. But one of the coolest things was the “Bewitched” statue, featuring Elizabeth Montgomery’s character Samantha astride a broom and framed by a moon crescent.

    Since we still had a long drive to Provincetown, we bought some sandwiches from the same coffee shop before heading off. I would’ve loved to have spent more time in Salem as it felt like we’d only scratched the surface, so hopefully someday we will get to visit again. We then headed south past Boston, which wasn’t as easy as we’d anticipated. Even outside of peak hour, traffic was horrible with a mass of cars fighting over a mishmash of lanes. A truck driver verbally abused us twice too!

    We finally arrived in Plymouth, and it was a real treat. Known as “America’s hometown”, it was a beautiful seaside town, with plenty of English culture, like the red phone booths. We saw the famous Plymouth Rock (not very exciting!) and the replica of the Mayflower before continuing on our drive.

    The drive to Provincetown was very relaxing through the Cape Cod area, and our Airbnb accommodation was not difficult to find. Our room is wonderfully large with a fair sized bathroom too. After unloading the car, we wandered down nearby Commercial Street to get into the atmosphere of the area. We ordered some corn chips and beer in a street side bar to people watch before getting some cheap Chinese food in a nearby food court. Since we’d been eating all day, we weren’t in the mood for much.

    Provincetown weather is actually cooler than our last few destinations, so maybe autumn is finally coming. We may be changing our itinerary - we had planned to stay with friends Stephen and Woody after leaving Provincetown but their son has just been diagnosed with Covid. Since it’s a Thursday night, we decided to relax in our room for the evening.
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  • Day 15

    Provincetown

    September 16, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I didn’t quite get the sleep-in I’d been hoping for as I woke way too early, especially since breakfast wasn’t served until 8am. The breakfast itself was the first one we’ve had provided on this holiday, and was only a simple offering of granola and muffins. Ted and I headed out for a walk on the surprisingly cool morning to see some more of Provincetown. It is very different from Ogunquit with a lot more shops, restaurants and bars however since it’s located on a peninsula, there doesn’t seem to be much to drive to in the way of day trips.

    Ted and I walked to the spectacular Pilgrim Monument which is close by to our B&B before walking to town and enjoying a coffee at a beachside cafe. We have noticed that the NGPA (National Gay Pilots Association) are having an event here in Provincetown, and there are plenty of pilots walking around wearing lanyards. For lunch, we went to a street side restaurant for beer and burgers before going shopping for T-shirts - we found a store having a massive sale so I bought five!

    After bumming around for a while, we headed back to our B&B to book some accommodation in Holyoke, due to our alternate arrangements. We dressed up and got ready to go out that night for some pre-dinner drinks, and went to the Shipwreck Bar nearby. Since there seemed to be a private function we headed instead to a small bar on the Main Street for a beer, before heading back and trying again. The function was still happening, but the organisers encouraged us to stay regardless. It ended up being the Gay Fathers of Greater Boston group, so we stayed for a while and had a few drinks before heading towards the Crown and Anchor.

    Ted recognised one of the pilots there as someone he had met earlier, and the pilot convinced the organiser to let us in since we both worked in aviation. Not only did the organiser let us in, he also gave us four drink vouchers! Initially, we found it a bit hard to find people to talk to as everyone seemed to already have their group of friends, but the organiser actually brought over some people to speak to, including an Australian pilot from Canberra who now lives in Boston.

    The party then moved to the aforementioned Shipwreck Bar! There were so many people there that the gathering ended up spilling over to the bar across the road. Once Ted and I had had our fill of drinks and socialising, we headed back to our accommodation, although I walked through the area for a while trying to find anywhere that sold water. I ended up having to buy four bottles from a rooftop bar that was still open. It was so great to get out and meet members of the community!
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  • Day 16

    Provincetown Day 2

    September 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We woke up later than usual today - Ted feeling a bit seedy! - after drinks last night. I went to breakfast, but Ted decided to forego it. We walked down to get a coffee but going to Coffee Joe wasn’t as good as we’d hoped, as there was no seating and the service was mediocre.

    Today was a great relaxing day, as we didn’t stick to any schedule. We went down afterwards to the Portuguese bakery where Ted waited forever for a ham and cheese croissant. Ted then went to buy some T-shirts whilst I went and bought a breakfast burrito. As you can see, our schedule today was very riveting!

    For dinner, we went to the same bar we went to for pre-dinner drinks as it also doubled as an Italian restaurant. I struggled to get through the meal though as a lunchtime smoothie I’d had earlier, complete with banana, blueberries and peanut butter, was one of the most filling things I’ve ever drank. We have enjoyed being here in Provincetown but would prefer to come here with friends if we came again.

    We thought about going out again tonight but considering our early start tomorrow and the fact we’re so behind on sleep, decided against it.
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  • Day 17

    Provincetown to Holyoke

    September 18, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We departed Provincetown before breakfast today, due to the amount of driving planned. After getting some petrol we realised that Rhode Island wasn’t too far of a detour from our schedule, so decided to divert so we could say we had officially visited all six New England states!

    We probably should’ve asked some opinions though about the best part to visit! We went to the capital city Providence and visited Historic Federal Hill, one of the town’s popular neighbourhoods, and were underwhelmed by the look of the city, with old roads and run-down buildings. We thought we would go for a coffee and literally found only two cafes - both completely full - before deciding to try elsewhere instead.

    We found a nearby Denny’s and enjoyed a meal there (despite an altercation between a female customer and the staff), before continuing towards Connecticut. Our first stop was the quaint seaside town of Mystic, famous from the film “Mystic Pizza”. It was fortunate we parked outside of town though, as the traffic was chaotic. I regretted wearing warmer clothes today - the cool weather of Provincetown wasn’t prevalent there.

    Before leaving Australia, we had made plans to catch up with a couple we’d met on the Trans-Mongolian railway 12 years ago, John and Carla. John suggested we meet up in the town of Chester, Connecticut which was a beautiful town amongst the woods, holding a Farmer’s Market that day. They also brought their three daughters along, so the seven of us had lunch in a nearby sandwich cafe. They did mention how Seaport is actually the place to visit in Rhode Island so at least we will know for next time!

    We continued through Connecticut past the cities of Hartford and Springfield, the latter I partly wished we’d visited as a sign indicated there was a Dr. Seuss Museum there! We arrived at Holyoke where our last-minute hotel is, and even got to place a pin on a world map, showing how the hotel now had their first ever guests from Adelaide!

    After checking in and getting ready, we drove to nearby Northampton to see our friends Stephen and Woody who have recently moved here from Fort Lauderdale. Very recently actually, since most of their moving boxes are still unpacked! Whilst having appetisers, their son Tony came downstairs which scared us all as he’s still suffering from Covid! I’m guessing he was wondering who was visiting.

    After taking their dog Augie for a quick walk, the guys drove us into nearby Northampton which they chose to live in as it’s a very gay friendly town. It actually impressed us a lot - for a small town it had a lot of shops, restaurants, pubs and parks. Ted and I agreed we could both easily live there. We went for a drink at one of the bars before heading back for Stephen’s home cooked meal of eggplant pasta. Delicious!

    We probably could’ve stayed longer if it wasn’t so late by the time we left, but it was definitely wonderful to see the guys again. Tomorrow we leave New England for the Catskills so hopefully we can sleep in a bit tomorrow.
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  • Day 18

    Holyoke to Roxbury

    September 19, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We didn’t get the sleep-in we’d been hoping for today, as we still woke up at our regular time, despite going to bed late. Breakfast was included at this hotel, which wasn’t the greatest but when it’s included, we never complain. It tasted fine but probably wasn’t that healthy! I also got to try pumpkin spice coffee which isn’t something I’ve ever seen back home.

    After getting petrol we continued on our way to the Catskills - the New England states have been wonderful, but we’re keen to see something different. We decided to go on the toll roads again although we didn’t get the option to pay for them as they were electronic, so I guess we’ll get the bill when we return the car.

    We first drove to the the town of Catskill which almost appeared as a ghost town in the middle of beautiful wooded scenery. We considered driving right through it but changed our mind and had a look. I’m glad we did - even though the town was asleep, it actually had a very nice charm. We had coffee at a beautiful gift shop/cafe run by a guy who had moved to Catskill from Manhattan. What a relief to have decent coffee!

    Our next stop was the town of Woodstock in New York which isn’t actually the location of the famous music festival, yet it tries to promote itself as such. I didn’t actually find it particularly interesting. We were hoping for something that was worth photographing but apart from buying a T-shirt, didn’t spend much time there at all.

    For lunch we went to a diner in Windham which, like most the towns we’ve seen in the Catskills, are really tired looking and lacking in tourists. We’re guessing it might be a combination of the low tourist season and the repercussions of Covid. Windham actually showed potential though as there was a large ski resort area which isn’t utilised during the summer months like Blue Mountain in Canada is.

    When we arrived in Roxbury where our hotel is, we found the town to be small but charming nonetheless. Our room is absolutely beautiful - it is called “Samantha’s Dream” and is inspired by the TV show “Bewitched”, based on scenes when Samantha would meet with her mother or another character up in the clouds. The receptionist had suggested we explore the other part of the hotel which is further up the road, so we did.

    That was definitely worth the drive! It is almost impossible to describe this place so here’s a description from the website: “Imagine if Alice in Wonderland married Willy Wonka and set up residence in Oz”. This is one of the most amazing hotels I’ve seen so far. Whether it was the building itself or the surrounding grounds, this hotel is an assortment of colour, class and sheer beauty. To call it unique is an understatement.

    We had intended to see the nearby waterfall but a storm blew in, forcing us back to the car to escape the pouring rain. We went back to our room and dried off before trying again a few hours later. The waterfall was unsurprisingly beautiful too, to match the hotel and surrounding grounds.

    Whilst walking around the grounds, I saw a man walk out of the building and asked if he worked there. Well, he actually ended up being one of the owners, as he and his partner Joe had started the place up a few years back. The three of us ended up talking for a while about a lot of different subjects, but it was very impressive meeting someone who had so much amazing vision yet remained so humble.

    For dinner we returned to town to try the restaurant Chappies, which seemed to be the only place operating that evening. It was also being run solely by one overworked waitress and two chefs, so patience was definitely required. We ordered a pizza and salad but the latter didn’t arrive so we decided to cut our losses and just enjoy the pizza. It wasn’t until after paying the bill did we realise we’d still paid for the salad!

    Tomorrow we head further west, as we get closer to our original destination of Toronto where we picked up the car. So far this trip has been a collection of eye opening experiences, and today was no exception.
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  • Day 19

    Roxbury to Mount Morris

    September 20, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Unfortunately Ted and I didn’t sleep so well because, as awesome as this hotel is, the beds are way too soft and I woke up with an annoying backache. Today was a bit of a longer drive so I collected our breakfast from the reception area - even though it was bagged, there were still plenty of options.

    The weather was a bit overcast again today but fortunately, with very little rain. After stopping in nearby Margaretville for some supplies, we continued onto Bethel. I had been disappointed previously about the lack of autumn colours but today we had some colour on the drive which was great.

    When we finally arrived in Bethel we noticed two things - the amount of signs written in Hebrew, and how the town didn’t have much else! We headed straight to the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, better known as the site of the 1968 Woodstock festival. We actually thought the place was closed as there was a huge car park area, and only a handful of cars.

    Just like our visit to NASA in Houston, this place exceeded our expectations. We purchased an entry to the museum as well as the iPad audio tour “Meet me at Woodstock” which we did first. This was a guided, multimedia tour of the Woodstock historic site which involved walking around to seven different locations outside, in the area where the festival occurred. At each location, the tour showed a 3-D model of the stage, with pop-up photos and videos highlighting landmarks around the historic site. It also played music of that era whilst attendees would give their memories of the concert. It was great.

    The museum was just as good. The exhibit included films, interactive productions, artefacts on display, and photographic murals. It showed fashion of the 1960s, music from the era, and original footage featuring the people, stories, sights, and music of the Woodstock Festival. It reminded me slightly of the Beatles museum in Liverpool - even though I wasn’t around during that era, it helped you to appreciate and understand it.

    After taking a lot of photos, we continued on our way. As we still had plenty of driving to do, we settled on another McDonald’s drive thru meal (ugh) so we wouldn’t need to stop. We even crossed the border into Pennsylvania for two minutes, but the drive kept on going!

    Fortunately our hotel in Mount Morris is quite good, although we have really noticed how rundown some of the towns we drive through are. I managed to do an enormous (seemingly) amount of laundry too at the hotel laundry, meaning we have clothes to wear again! I was hungry and tired by the time we went to dinner, so Ted suggested we go to a nearby Denny’s.

    It seems like the shortage of workers we saw at Roxbury is prevalent here too as the waitress needed to turn us away as she was the only one working. It was then we noticed how virtually every business seemed to have a “help wanted” sign, indicating a similar problem here. I ended up getting Subway and Ted bought KFC for dinner. We were disappointed but it’s understandable.

    We were exhausted after the drive today so decided to go to bed around 9.30pm. We have no definite plans yet for tomorrow but are so glad we have two nights to relax here.
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  • Day 20

    Niagara Falls

    September 21, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I left the decision of where we would go today to Ted, as I had organised most of the itinerary beforehand. There was the choice of Watkins Glen State Park, Albany, Niagara Falls or Buffalo. Ted chose Niagara Falls with a stop in Buffalo, which is actually on our way to Toronto Airport tomorrow, however we won’t have time to stop considering the driving distance, border crossing, rental car return and the Toronto traffic!

    After a good breakfast, we started our drive through to Niagara. The sad thing to see was how run-down the town of Niagara Falls is. We weren’t sure if it was an after effect from Covid or something else, but the town was dilapidated and depressing. It was very different to the memories I have of Niagara Falls from years ago.

    As we approached the Falls, we weren’t sure whereabouts to park until we noticed an area that offered parking for $10. We weren’t sure if it was legitimate, but the guy who took the money was wearing an official looking T-shirt, so we were hopeful! As we walked towards the Falls, we became stuck behind a tour group, which wasn’t as bad as it sounds because we got a free commentary as well!

    TBH, I hadn’t been that excited about seeing Niagara Falls, simply because I felt like we weren’t seeing anything new. I was wrong though - unbeknownst to us, there was also nearby Goat Island which offered a completely different perspective of the Falls. We took an unbelievable amount of photos, made easier by the obvious lack of tourists about. Another thing we noticed too was how much was closed, such as restaurants and souvenir shops.

    When we went to collect the car, we noticed that our $10 parking had now increased to $25 from then onwards, so fortunately we’d arrived at the right time! Ted was keen to see Buffalo on the way back where I had been during the winter of 1992. The traffic itself to get there was chaotic and to be honest, neither of us were impressed by the city. We parked the car and went to a sports bar for lunch but TBH, the city didn’t leave a pleasant lasting impression on us.

    Our trip back to the hotel took longer than planned, mainly because we got stuck behind a truck for so long! We noticed our room hadn’t been cleaned, and found out it is only cleaned every third day. That may be another sign of the labour shortage. For dinner, Ted bought some broccoli which, as unappealing as it sounds, was exactly what I felt like after days of unhealthy eating.

    Tomorrow we head to Hawaii but we clearly didn’t do our research before booking the flight: we wake up at 6:30am and drive to Toronto, to depart at 2pm for a five hour flight to Vancouver, then catch a connecting 6 hour flight to Honolulu. In other words, we arrive in Hawaii when it’s 3:30am here. Ugh. It’s going to be a long day.
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