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Camino Via de la Plata

September - October 2022
My third and longest Camino Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    21
    Day 19

    Day 19 - Galisteo - 19.1 km

    October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    How quickly landscape and weather can change.
    While we are still in the autonomous region of Extremadura we have definitely climbed into the cooler and more higher country.
    There has been a cool wind blowing - quite strongly at times - and after a few hours through trees and over hills, the landscape transformed into green pastures with grazing sheep and cattle. Again I sort of missed those incredibly hot plains further south. I am completely amused by this longing for the difficult first few weeks.
    We were walking on another Roman road today. Over the last few days I noticed lots of quartz rock in the road beds but now I believe that what we are seeing is the base of the original Roman roads. Sort of exciting and inspiring.
    I left in the cool dark this morning (6.15 am) with the way lit by a nearly full moon and Miguel’s head lamp. Very beautiful. I started to wish the sun would rise, but remembering my lessons on the hot plains I reminded myself to enjoy the dark and be fully present because the sun would eventually rise and the dark would be gone.
    When I started this Camino I didn’t realise that sunrise is not till 8.00 or 8.30 am and that you really need to leave in the dark to get the cooler part of the day - and I am usually awake around 5-6 am anyway. So I will need to buy a headlamp in Salamanca. I can use my phone torch but it’s not so good if I am walking in the dark for a couple of hours.
    I am staying in the walled town of Galisteo. This is more like the Spain I know from previous Caminos. I am looking forward to exploring this town after I check in to the Albergue.
    The Albergue is fabulous. Mainly single beds for 8 people and I might be the only one here today. Large lounge area and modern bathroom.
    The accomodation is much improved since Camino Frances in 2007 when I remember many rickety bunk beds and cold showers.

    Buen Camino

    (20 km in 6 hours)    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    1
    1
    Day 20

    Day 20 - Carcabosa - 10 km

    October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Had a really good sleep and a slow start to the day. There was one other person in the albergue. In the evening he watched soccer on his tablet in the lounge area - and he didn’t snore. 🙏🙏🙏
    However when I woke this morning I realised I had missed a live online event that I was looking forward to. I somehow can’t get any time conversions right at the moment. This is the second time this has happened. Of course I felt like I had completely missed out.
    Well never mind; get ready; head to the bar for a coffee and start your day.
    The TV was on - bombing in Kiev, floods and fires elsewhere……. Suddenly I was filled with gratitude for my life, my incredible good fortune to be here where I am now, safe, secure, loved, I haven’t missed out on anything.
    As I began my walk I found myself joyfully singing mantras aloud in an exuberant and creative way that reminded me of my meditation teacher. I felt at one with her and realised I absolutely hadn’t missed out on anything. Joy and love live within me and all I need to do is to turn my attention to that never ending spring inside.
    I am now in the ‘heart of Via de la Plata’ according to one commentary.
    Today was an easy walk along a side road with some traffic - but not enough to be a problem. More cows and milk sheep, as well as poplar plantations and the start of autumn colours emerging.
    I strolled through the morning with a very occasional sprinkling of rain (thank you to my umbrella) and many stops to rest, stare and snack.
    I arrived in Carcabossa around 11.30 am to be greeted by an enthusiastic gentleman who stopped me before I walked right past my booked accommodation. He took my back pack, sent me off for coffee and taught me how to say - I am from Australia- in Spanish.
    There is a very well stocked supermarket where I was able to purchase a pencil and eraser so I can better plan my days and then rub out my plan when I end up doing something different. They also had a head lamp which I really need as the sun rises later each day and I will need to be on my way byt 7.30 am latest - and sometimes earlier - when it is still dark. Who would have thought.
    Walking alone is great for my Spanish. I look up what I want to say and give it a shot - and to my surprise they understand me!!!
    Late lunch
    The local cafe has a restaurant room attached. A bit more up market than usual. I had a 3 course lunch with wine and bread €12, 50 ($20) - totally full. This is my regular one big meal of the day. Today I had a huge salad (my usual daily choice), calamari with roasted red peppers - delicious - and Nutella mousse for desert - out of this world. How lucky can a girl get.
    The TV is on showing the weather forecast. No rain for where I am heading but lots of rain to the west. Hopefully the weather gods are on my side.
    There are at least 9 people in the hostel tonight. All peregrinos - French, Korean, Spanish, Scottish - it’s always nice to have an English speaker around.
    Tomorrow i am walking 20 km and am looking forward to an early start and a longer day. I hope my dodgy foot is up for it. I am pretty sure the rest of the body is fine.
    Buen Camino

    PS. I went for a walk in the evening and found a big sign explaining the history of this town. It seems that while on the past there was a small population, the town itself is relatively new as a result of public works in the area. I thought that maybe this is why it had a different feel than the other older towns and villages - and the services were really good.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    Day 21

    Day 21 - Olivia de Plasencia - 20 km

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Another lovely day through through rolling hills of cows and cork oak trees.
    I met an Italian man on the road who has to be in Santiago by 1 November, so we parted ways after a couple of km as his pace was much faster than mine.
    I came across the lovely Korean couple from last night having a picnic along the way. They had food, coffee and music - so well organised. We all walk our own Camino.
    I turned off the main Camino route to the quaint town of Olivia de Plasencia so that I could stay within my 20 km limit.
    The last 6 km was along a sealed road which was a bit busy but not too bad. The last 2 km was hotter with minimal shade. I was glad I wasn’t going any further and my foot started to hurt at that dreaded 18 km mark.
    This village is so sweet. Tiny narrow streets and very old houses. The village is situated at the foot of some beautiful hills. The albergue is full of character in a very old building and has a well equipped kitchen and great bathroom.
    The crochet trend is alive and well here. Not only crochet squares but crochet people as well. Check out the photos.
    Many of the group from yesterday are here too. One from Korea, two from France, two from Spain and a ‘new one’ from Portugal - and two on bikes just arrived. A hugely social night compared to my solo days of the past.
    It seemed we were all making our own dinner tonight in the well equiped kitchen but now it looks like it will be a communal meal after all. My contribution is the salad - tomatoes, cucumber and roasted capsicum.
    Just discovered tomorrow is the Spanish National Day. All of Spain is celebrating and nothing is open.
    I am going ‘of piste’ again tomorrow to stay within my 20 km but only 2.5 km off the offical Way. The only accomodation is a hotel for €25 but there is a restaurant attached so I should be able to get a good meal even though it is Spanish National Day.
    Dinner will be ready soon so I will say …
    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    Day 21

    Day 21 - Summary - personal

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Confession-
    I was quite resistant to walking this Camino. Why?
    It was too hard: too long: too boring: too lonely and I was feeling too lazy. I had a belief that I wasn’t fit or strong enough; and add to that my existing foot problem (the old Morton’s Neuroma). I had a belief that I wouldn’t be able to do it.
    And now …
    I have walked. around 360 km, taken a bus for 68 km and a taxi for 12 km to either find some accommodation or to make a really long stage doable.
    On two or three afternoons I walked for a few hours in appalling heat, no shade and seemingly never ending flat plains; and reached our destination without disintegrating. I had plenty of water, my shady umbrella and companions to keep me going. It was indescribably hard but it was done. And I learnt that nothing lasts forever.
    I discovered that I can walk 18 - 20 km before my foot starts to hurt and if I use some Voltarin Forte cream I can walk for another 5 km. But I don’t walk to create long term damage so I will stick to 20 km or less every day.
    I am now in the green hilly country that is more like the Spain I know from previous Caminos. And there are more fellow peregrinos - which has given me some opportunities to share and hear from others.
    I confessed to one of my fellow peregrinos that ‘I don’t like this Camino’ and they agreed with me that this first part was really hard for them too.
    Well the second 10 days have been an improvement on the first 10 days.
    I have moved from the hot hot plains to the hill country where it is more cool and green.
    Highlights
    Walking with a group of Spanish ‘supermen’ and one woman. I did some longer days and afternoons in the heat (32 degrees) and learnt I can do much more than I think.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    Day 22

    Day 22 - Jarilla - 17.7 km

    October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    This morning was exquisite.
    We started off in the dark and then were greeted by golden morning light with the waning moon bright in the sky. It was so peaceful walking through the fields with only some cows and a few pigs (which I hadn’t seen for a while).
    It took me a while to realise I couldn’t hear a distant motorway, which often accompanies this Camino. I think that was one of the reasons this morning was so special. A perfectly divine morning.
    We walked through what appeared to be a very wealthy stud farm called Finca Los Baldios (The Baldios Eatate). Lots of stone pillars signifying different areas of the estate - we all thought it to be worth millions.
    A short while later we passed Caparra Ruinas Romanas - the remains of a significant Roman city with a great arch, an old road and lots of building foundations. So interesting.
    I also noticed it was quite dry here. The waterways were all dried up and a waterhole was only a quarter full.
    I turned off the Camino again to stay within my 20 km limit. I am glad I was with Sylvie and Maria from France as we were all a bit concerned that I would not find the correct turn off. But after consulting my guide and looking for the sign - there it was painted on the side road. I sadly farewelled Sylvie and Marie (they are lovely) and walked the 2 km to Hotel Asturias.
    I had an excellent lunch - salada mixta, lamb chops with chips and vanilla mousse for desert and with a whole bottle of VinoTinto. In this area they give you the whole bottle and you just drink as much as you like. I am sure they pour the leftovers together into a new bottle for the next customer as the bottle is already open when it arrives at the table. But still it’s lovely and generous. The Spanish wine is mild and delicious and I can easily have a small glass or two with my meal without any ill effects.
    So today was walk, arrive, lunch, nap, do some washing, yoga, look at next stages of the Camino, watch the beautiful sunset …. Perfect.
    My room has a small balcony from which I can see the distant blue hills - no need to even step outside as everything I might want to see is just there.
    It is 8.30 pm and the red/orange afterglow from the setting sun has nearly faded.
    Buen Camino

    PS. We are in wild lavender country.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    Day 23

    Day 23 - Aldeanueva - 13 km

    October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Another beautiful day - clear sunny skies with a gentle cool breeze.
    I had a sleep in this morning as this is a short day so didn’t start walking till about 9 am.
    The first 3 km was along a road to get back to the official Camino, but again not to much traffic and a couple of spots where I could walk on the old road beside the new one.
    The highlight of the day soon followed with a trail through the countryside, between stone walls and further away from main roads. Beautiful.
    I found a stopping place and just stopped! Something I don’t think I have really done yet on this Camino.
    I sat and listened to the silence, cow bells, birds, insects and the quiet hum of traffic in the distance.
    It reminded me of the serenity of my beloved Snowy Mountains and I wondered if it is the actual mountains that vibrate with this particular peace and silence. The mountains seem like great hunks of silent beingness - just there. Is this why the Himalayas are so powerful - the silent consciousness of mountains.
    So here I am sitting. And running the dry lavender from the surrounding bushes on my wrists. I don’t want to leave as I know that in an hour or so I will be in a largish town till the morning.
    I can see two villages (Puebla) right at the foot of the hills. I looked them up on Wikipedia. One is said to be from ancient Celtic times while the other is said to have spontaneously manifested in the 20th Century - but maybe that is a typo and should be 2nd Century. Ah you have to love the Spanish.
    I know I have been here a while because my shady spot is becoming sunny and the tractor that passed a while ago has just come back with its load.
    The town of Aldeanueva is a complete surprise. A wonderful old town where the buildings in some places are well below street level. The albergue is marvellous and the host who spoke English told me that any town that starts with Al.. is from Arabic times. No wonder I feel so good here. The original town is Roman and there is a cute little Roman bridge in the centre of town. The buildings and iron work on the verandahs reminds me of Sevilla. Loving it.
    I was looking up my next stops and found that Baŋos de Montemayor is an old Roman spa town.
    My albergue host, Frances, said he can call for some more information. There are a number of Roman spa towns along this route. I already missed one opportunity and want to make sure I can have the Roman spa experience at least once.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    Day 24

    Day 24 - Detour to Hervás

    October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I took a wonderful short detour through Hervás this morning. This pretty and historical town is closer to the mountains so that part of my curiosity has been satisfied. And Hervás has a incredibly interesting Jewish history.
    I stopped for a decaf and left my backpack at the bar while I went exploring.
    The ‘Jewish Quarter’ has been well preserved but I felt very sad to read about the Jewish history of this town as it reflects the Spanish Jewish history so very well - expulsion; forced conversion to Christianity; death via the Inquisition. I nearly didn’t come for that reason.
    The town itself is well set up for tourists with many cafes, specialty shops and many hostels, appartments and hotels outside of town.
    The Jewish Quarter, with its history, narrow streets and interesting houses, is a delight and highly recommended to anyone who happens to be in this part of Spain.
    I possibly didn’t explore as long as I might have because I left my poles outside!!! the bar. But they were still there when I got back.
    Then I had churros and my banana & yogurt before setting off to return to the Camino.
    A truly gratifying morning.
    PS. I don’t think the photos are so great. The light wasn’t good and it’sreally hard to get the feel of the narrow winding streets and different buildings.

    Here is a quote and a few links with more information

    “Hervás is the only place I’ve been to in Spain and seen the words “Hebrew is spoken here” on the front of a shop. Out of all the places I’ve visited in this country, it is by far the one which is most proud of its Jewish history and seems to make every effort to promote and preserve it. But its Jewish history is different to that of other places across Spain. Hervás was not simply another place where Jewish communities had settled and worked. Rather, it was a place of refuge for Jews who were escaping from the ongoing persecution that was taking place throughout the rest of the country centuries ago.”

    https://www.itinari.com/hervas-and-the-jewish-q…

    https://www.piggytraveller.com/blog/jewish-lega…    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    2
    Day 24

    Day 24 - Puerto de Béjar - 15 km

    October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After the detour to Hervás this morning there was a bit of hearty road walking as I went further into the hills. Up and up. Today was basically all up hill but actually in hindsight quite manageable.
    At one point I was greeted by friendly goats; and two donkeys who made the most mournful crying sound so I would pluck some grass for them. They were tricksters because they were well fed and looked well loved.
    I was wanting to go to the Albergue in Puento (where I am tonight) but when I got to Baŋos I was tired and hot and thought I would stop so headed up another hill to the Albergue Turistica - only to find it was ‘completo’ - full - as was everywhere else. I finally realised it was Friday and all the oldies were there for the Spa for the weekend. Oops!
    So … no choice but to head to the next town an hour away, which doesn’t sound too bad except it was 2.00 pm by then; and quite hot; and it was all up hill; and the hill looked really steep on the contour map; and the mind made it seem really difficult.
    Amazingly enough it was fine - apart from being hot.
    The body felt strong and of course the pack gets lighter as you drink the water you are carrying.
    There was a bit of road walking but the path also went over a cute bumpy (Roman?) back road and through a narrow bush track. Sorry no photos as I was just concentrating on getting there while still practicing appreciating where I was- not very successfullyé I must admit. (Lessons from the plains).
    And between Banjos and Puerto I crossed un-noticed from Extremadura into Castilla y Léon.
    The lovely pilgrims-only Albergue here in Puerto is so sweet. The pilgrim-only Albergues have a completely different energy to the Turistica ones. They are staffed by volunteers and have a gentle sweet energy. I am the only one here this afternoon. The hospitalarios have been so kind. The Albergue is right on the Camino but on the edge of town about 20 minutes from shops and bars - so they have food in the fridge that I can eat. And real coffee and eggs for breakfast. Wonderful. They are so welcoming- quite unlike the host at Banjos who just said they were full and didn’t even think to offer a hot tired woman a seat and a glass of water till I asked. I’m so glad I didn’t stay there.
    Today I saw that the mind still goes to the worst case scenario - I can’t; it’s too hard; I won’t make it; the place will be full; I’m too tired, old, hot … people will think I am crazy etc etc.
    However I am sure there will be many more unexpected events and challenges to give me the opportunity to practice staying with what actually is rather than acting from unfounded assumptions.
    Buen Camino

    PS. A young couple on bikes from the UK just arrived. A chance to practice my English 🤣😂🤣    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    1
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    Day 25

    Day 25 - Valverde de Valdelacasa - 19.1

    October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    What a beautiful day!
    The morning began with the best coffee, toast, a bit of ham, and conversion with the couple who arrived on bikes later yesterday afternoon.
    Both from the UK. They are biking from north to the south of Spain where he is catching a boat to South America and she ???? well might go too, or might go back to the UK to finish uni - a work in progress. He wants to bike the length of South American and has been planning that trip for a long time. I hope it all turns out for them both as they are a delightful pair.
    I left about 8.15 am.
    Today’s walk started down hill through shaded forested slopes and later along a babbling brook/ small river; then over a flat green plain surrounded by distant mountains; studded with oak trees and calm grazing cattle. The breeze murmured through the trees and the sun was broken up by regular shady sections. I stopped many times to just take in the stunning landscape.
    Today was a lot more like the Camino Frances with small villages at regular intervals and green landscapes - but with far less people than the Francés. I only saw three other peregrinos today.
    The whole day the Camino followed an old Roman road with ancient road markers at regular intervals.
    There was a small town at the 10 km mark so I had an early lunch as I didn’t eat much yesterday(the best salada mixta ever!!) and arrived at my final destination at 2.30 pm.
    The two villages are very old and small, and I imagine rely on the Camino for some of their income.
    I wanted to stop at both for the night but really had to choose one. Otherwise this Camino will be too long even for me.
    An early dinner of the best soup and ‘mixed platter’ of salad, chicken, egg and chips. Delicious.
    Just waiting for my washing to finish- they have a machine - and then relaxation for the rest of the afternoon/ evening. Tomorrow is a short walk of around 10 km to a well known Monastery that hosts pilgrims. I’m really looking forward to staying there.
    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
    Day 26

    Day 26 - Fuenterroble - 11.5 km

    October 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Fuenterroble de Salvatierra.
    What a strange name this town has - it means ‘Oak Fountain of Salvatierra’. It sounds much worse.

    Everything changes - nothing stays the same.

    After a extra special day yesterday, today was cool, cloudy and felt a little dull. It was basically all up hill and I was happy that I managed the first 3.5 km of a fairly stiff climb with only a couple of stops to watch the cows and then to catch my breath. I can recall how a few weeks ago this would have been quite challenging and I was very pleased with my improved fitness.
    I had a chance encounter with Frances from France who was riding one of those lay down bikes to Sevilla, Granada and then Alicante. We had a lovely chat and took photos of each other. He was impressed with my walking and I was impressed with his bike riding. A satisfactory encounter for us both. He reported that the Camino France was really crowded when he was there and I was grateful that this route is less populated.
    The scenery was nice but without the uplifting quality of yesterday. And I saw the biggest quarry I have seen in a long time - looked like half a mountain was gone.
    I stopped to rub some Voltarin into my foot and I must have left it there - says something about my state of mind.
    I stopped in Fuenterroble because I wanted to experience the famous albergue here run by the parish priest Father Blas.
    Well … the place is interesting, quaint and full of character. But for some reason I felt sad to be there - felt like crying - a vary confusing response. In this Camino I have felt resistant, grumpy, overwhelmed, frustrated, a little afraid, happy, joyful, content, at peace, interested, curious …. But never this feeling of today and it is still hanging around
    In terms of the actual albergue - well if I wanted to experience an albergue similar to ones on my 2007 Camino then this is the place to be - slightly saggy bed, cold room and today a cold shower. I saw there is Solar hot water but I don’t think the sun has been out for a while.
    I have been very happy with the upgraded conditions of accomodation so far on this Camino - particularly a hot shower on a cool day.
    Even though there are a lot is spiritual images in this albergue it doesn’t seem to have the palpable love of the heart-centred albergue the night before last.
    The thing that has impressed me the most is the workshop and outbuildings full of incredible collectables that are used to create this interesting location. Is it more of an artists’ workshop than a spiritual refuge?
    Last night’s albergue was without any particular character but had long hot showers, warm very cosy bed (flannel sheets and cosy blankets) and free washing machine.
    True spirituality is not about deprivation but about love manifest - that really is the teaching today. Everyone is very kind today but for me something is missing.
    So … I went to the bar for an early lunch and they gave me that full bottle of wine again. I better stop now!
    But at least the needs of the body have been met and I intend to enjoy the afternoon regardless of external circumstances.
    Turns out I fell asleep and had some strange dreams that I don’t quite remember; then went to the pilgrim mass which was also felt a bit strange; forgot to see if the shop was open to buy some food for the road tomorrow (can ask them here to make me a biccadilla); had a strange (?) pilgrim dinner with the 18 others who are here; ; accidentally left my purse in my room and had a small panic; made some peppermint tea which was lovely and went to bed for the night.
    A strange day indeed.
    IMPORTANT FOOTNOTE
    In the morning I found out that this albergue has been set up to give work and purpose to people who are homeless or have mental health difficulties but are not able to access support from the system. The strange vibe was not in my imagination. My lovely room mate, Maita, explained in a mix of Spanish and English that she also felt the strange feelings - she said the place is like a surreal movie. No wonder I had such strange dreams and thoughts while here.
    Maita understood that this Albergue is more for the people who work and serve here and it’s the pilgrims who give them purpose… and that life is a mix of positive and negative- not just a place for ‘my’ comfort.
    This is a place for pilgrims to offer something back rather than to receive.
    The blessings continue - without this new understandings I would have left with a bad feeling.
    Now I feel light.
    And Maita gave me recommendations for where in Salamanca to get best rain gear. Looks like the sunny weather is over and it will be mainly rain of various intensities.
    Buen Camino

    EDIT - 16 Oct 2023 - As I read this today I remember the dreams were quite violent and had elements of death in them. This was the strangest place I stayed at along the whole Camino. I just read some reviews that were incredibly positive. Did I miss something? No - we all have our own experience. And I think I used the word ‘strange’ at least 6 times. 🤣    Read more

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