Speak, World
On this platform, my “footprints” are postcards to my friends. My home is the country I am in! I am committed to learning its language, and as much as possible about it, while maintaining great curiosity, a sense of humor and increasing acceptance. Leer más🇺🇸Alexandria
  • Farewell Feasts, (De)Formed Trees, Opera

    1 de mayo, Taiwán ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    En inglés y español (desplácete hacia abajo para ver el español.)

    If I had known how much I would enjoy being here with excellent friends and very satisfying Chinese studies, I would have stayed for another month!

    My friends Xue Fang (first Chinese teacher) and Doreen (language exchange partner) both treated me to very delicious farewell meals: a hot pot and a varied menu. Choosing the items is the most important part! I just sat back, and enjoyed the culinary knowledge of my hostesses. To me, Taiwanese hospitality is lavish and effortless. It is so very friendly and companionable, and lasts hours!

    At the end of the meal with Doreen and her friends, we went for a walk in a nearby park. I thought of it as “The Park of Manipulated Trees,” because as you can see in the photos, years of work went into each tree. I’m sorry I don’t know the names of the trees; they weren’t labeled, and there was no arborist nearby. I wish I knew—I certainly enjoyed them in the Taiwanese parks in all four cities I visited.

    My last evening I saw a traveling street version of the Taiwan Opera—or of a certain Taiwan Opera Company. It was a grand effort, and although I couldn’t understand the dialogue, it wasn’t hard to understand the action!

    Finally, I just want to mention that I finished my four-week “Conversation Travel” project, with a total of 112 conversations! At the beginning of each week, I listed the “revelations and insights” I had during my work. I’m providing the link here, in case you are learning a foreign language (and aren’t a member of the “Smart Language Learning Academy”) and would like to read them. A brief summary of each conversation is also included.

    https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/e1qsdu2gq8y3ugar…

    Thank you for following me on this journey. See you in Japan!

    Ahora en español:

    Banquetes de despedida, árboles (de)formados, ópera
    28–30 de abril de 2026

    Si hubiera sabido cuánto iba a disfrutar estar aquí con amigos excelentes y con estudios de chino tan satisfactorios, ¡me habría quedado otro mes!

    Mis amigas Xue Fang (mi primera maestra de chino) y Doreen (mi compañera de intercambio de idiomas) me invitaron a dos comidas de despedida deliciosísimas: un hot pot y un menú muy variado. ¡Elegir los platillos es lo más importante! Yo simplemente me relajé y disfruté del conocimiento culinario de mis anfitrionas. Para mí, la hospitalidad taiwanesa es abundante y natural. Es muy cálida, muy cercana, ¡y puede durar horas!

    Al final de la comida con Doreen y sus amigas, fuimos a caminar a un parque cercano. Yo lo llamé “el parque de los árboles manipulados”, porque, como se ve en las fotos, cada árbol tenía años de trabajo encima. Me da pena no saber los nombres de los árboles; no estaban etiquetados y no había ningún especialista cerca. Ojalá lo supiera—la verdad es que los disfruté muchísimo en los parques de las cuatro ciudades que visité en Taiwán.

    En mi última noche vi una versión callejera itinerante de la ópera taiwanesa—o de cierta compañía de ópera taiwanesa. Fue un gran esfuerzo, y aunque no podía entender los diálogos, ¡no era difícil seguir la acción!

    Por último, quiero mencionar que terminé mi proyecto de cuatro semanas de “Conversation Travel”, con un total de ¡112 conversaciones! Al inicio de cada semana, anoté las “revelaciones y aprendizajes” que tuve durante mi trabajo. Aquí dejo el enlace, por si estás aprendiendo un idioma extranjero (y no eres miembro de la “Smart Language Learning Academy”) y te interesa leerlos. También incluí un breve resumen de cada conversación.

    https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/e1qsdu2gq8y3ugar…

    Gracias por acompañarme en este viaje. Nos vemos en Japón!
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  • Are Those Really Owls?

    27 de abril, Taiwán ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    En inglés y español (desplácete hacia abajo para ver el español.)

    For me, “traveling” means “walking,” most of the time. On foot, one can see the most astonishing things, great and small. And so I walked a great deal here in humid “breathing-warm-watery-air” Tainan. I always felt quite sleepy after only half an hour, looking longingly at the comfortable sidewalk/bed, but carried on.

    This post contains momentous sights and events for me: two owls in a tree in a park; a sting operation in a 7-11, two artists’ aesthetic developments in the Tainan Art Museum, a meeting with my first Chinese teacher and dear friend after 15 years; an expedition with my new “siblings,” and a hearse with a message.

    Enjoy the photos, and write to me if you’d like to know the details.

    Ahora en español:

    ¿De verdad son búhos?

    Para mí, “viajar” significa “caminar”, la mayor parte del tiempo. A pie, una puede ver las cosas más sorprendentes, grandes y pequeñas. Y así caminé muchísimo aquí en Tainan, en este “aire tibio, húmedo y como de agua”. Siempre me daba mucho sueño después de apenas media hora, mirando con antojo la banqueta cómoda como si fuera una cama, pero seguía adelante.

    Este texto reúne momentos y escenas muy importantes para mí: dos búhos en un árbol en un parque; un operativo encubierto en un 7-11; el desarrollo estético de dos artistas en el Museo de Arte de Tainan; el reencuentro con mi primera maestra de chino y querida amiga después de 15 años; una excursión con mis nuevos “hermanos”; y un coche fúnebre con un mensaje.

    Disfruta las fotos, y escríbeme si te gustaría saber los detalles.
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  • My 75th Birthday, and the Days After

    20 de abril, Taiwán ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    En inglés y español (desplácete hacia abajo para ver el español.)

    Sunday, April 19, 2026 was exactly 75 years after my birth in 1951 in the Huntington Memorial Hospital in Pasadena, California. Here in Tainan, Doreen (Ling Ling Zheng) arranged a birthday party luncheon for the two of us with three of her good friends at a quite wonderful restaurant. Doreen has been my video-call language exchange partner for 3 years, and my birthday was the first time we met face to face! It was quite thrilling for both of us. After eating the delicious luncheon (check out the photos) we adjourned to a lovely coffee shop for more conversation, coffee, and cake. It was a splendid afternoon, with interesting and charming people.

    The following day, my goal was to buy new clothes for myself. My size is a perfect Taiwanese ladies’ “medium,” in both height and fit, so I took advantage of this. I added two tops and two pairs of trousers to my wardrobe from an inexpensive large Taiwan franchise store called “Net.” The clothes are stylish, well-made, and wearable. I also wandered around the streets of Tainan in the evening--a new experience.

    And finally, on April 21st, Doreen arranged an interesting outing, adding a gentleman, friend, Sianh-Ho, to accompany us. We visited the historic Anping area of Tainan, famous for its port and another Dutch fort, and had a large freshwater fish for lunch. Dessert and coffee followed, in two different places. Entertaining Taiwan-style is elaborate and simple at the same time, as it is done in very nice places, and with such a relaxed and cheerful manner.
    Please enjoy the photos,

    Ahora en español:

    Mi fiesta de cumpleaños número 75 y los días después

    El domingo 19 de abril de 2026 se cumplieron exactamente 75 años de mi nacimiento en 1951, en el Huntington Memorial Hospital de Pasadena, California. Aquí en Tainan, Doreen (Ling Ling Zheng) organizó un almuerzo de cumpleaños para las dos junto con tres de sus buenas amigas, en un restaurante realmente maravilloso. Doreen ha sido mi compañera de intercambio de idiomas por videollamada durante tres años, ¡y mi cumpleaños fue la primera vez que nos vimos en persona! Fue muy emocionante para ambas. Después de disfrutar del delicioso almuerzo (miren las fotos), nos fuimos a una cafetería encantadora para seguir platicando, con café y pastel. Fue una tarde espléndida, rodeada de gente interesante y encantadora.

    Al día siguiente, mi objetivo fue comprarme ropa nueva. Mi talla coincide perfectamente con la “mediana” de mujer taiwanesa, tanto en estatura como en corte, así que aproveché. Añadí dos blusas y dos pantalones a mi guardarropa de una tienda grande y económica de Taiwán llamada “Net”. La ropa es moderna, bien hecha y muy práctica. También salí a pasear por las calles de Tainan por la noche—una experiencia nueva para mí.

    Y finalmente, para esta entrada del blog, Doreen organizó una salida interesante, sumando a un amigo, el señor Hsiang Ho, para acompañarnos. Visitamos la zona histórica de Anping, famosa por su puerto y otro fuerte holandés, y comimos un gran pescado de agua dulce para el almuerzo. Después vinieron el postre y el café, en dos lugares distintos. La forma taiwanesa de entretener es elaborada y sencilla al mismo tiempo: se hace en lugares muy agradables y con una actitud tan relajada y alegre.
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  • In Tainan: Temples and Conversations

    15 de abril, Taiwán ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    En inglés y español (desplácete hacia abajo para ver el español.)

    I arrived by a local train to the southern city of Tainan on April 15th, again after an absence of 15 years. I had forgotten how shiny and modern the city looked close to the railway station, but as I walked (yes, 30 minutes in the heat and humidity with all my luggage) to the historic West District to my room at 144 Minsheng Road, the city began to look older. In this area there are many of the 300 temples scattered about the city, many of them in narrow and fascinating alleys off the main streets. There are also MANY museums and galleries. After a short rest, I set off exploring my neighborhood.

    Very close to me is the most important and historic temple in Tainan, the Grand Mazu Temple. It is very beautiful and dramatic, with many interesting features. Please read about it and its history in this fascinating article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Matsu_Temple

    I was also drawn to visit the equally interesting and important Confucious Temple and the Chihkan Tower. One can effortlessly pick up a lot of Chinese and Taiwanese history after being exposed to these places! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tainan_Confucian_…

    This blog isn’t meant to be a travelogue, so I’m not going into my own historical descriptions. However, I guarantee that you would find Taiwan fascinating, if you’ve never been here before!

    The Tainan Museum of Contemporary Art had the interesting idea of immersing visitors in different aspects of paintings by projecting them on the walls of enormous gallery spaces—completely surrounding the visitors. Quite an experience!

    I am concurrently doing a Chinese language conversation project while I’m here in the country. I briefly described part of it in my last post. Since having conversations is one of my two goals in studying a foreign language, (reading literature is the second) I am trying to have as many conversations in Chinese that I can every day. While I am good at starting conversations, and also good at speaking quickly and semi-idiomatically (idiotically?!!?) my main problem is lack of vocabulary. However, I am now very highly motivated to study a lot of Chinese for the rest of my life. I find it so much fun and so interesting!

    I hope you enjoy the photos and videos.

    Ahora en español:
    Llegué en un tren local a la ciudad sureña de Tainan el 15 de abril, otra vez después de 15 años de no venir. Ya se me había olvidado lo moderna y reluciente que se ve la ciudad cerca de la estación de tren, pero mientras caminaba (sí, 30 minutos con el calor y la humedad, cargando todo mi equipaje) hacia el histórico Distrito Oeste, hasta mi cuarto en la calle Minsheng 144, lo fui recordando poco a poco. En esta zona hay muchos de los 300 templos que están repartidos por toda la ciudad, varios de ellos escondidos en callejones angostos y súper interesantes que salen de las avenidas principales. También hay MUCHOS museos y galerías. Después de descansar un ratito, me fui a explorar mi barrio.

    Muy cerquita de donde estoy está el templo más importante e histórico de Tainan, el Gran Templo de Mazu. Es muy bonito e impresionante, con muchísimos detalles interesantes. Más detalles aquí: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Matsu_Temple

    También me dieron muchas ganas de visitar el igualmente importante e interesante Templo de Confucio y la Torre Chihkan. ¡La verdad es que uno aprende un montón de historia china y taiwanesa casi sin darse cuenta al estar en estos lugares! ! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tainan_Confucian_…

    Este blog no es tanto para hacer crónicas de viaje, así que no me voy a meter en descripciones históricas muy mías. Pero te aseguro que Taiwán te parecería fascinante si nunca has venido.

    El Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Tainan tuvo una idea súper interesante: sumergir a los visitantes en diferentes aspectos de las pinturas proyectándolas en las paredes de salas enormes, rodeándote completamente. ¡Toda una experiencia!

    Al mismo tiempo, estoy haciendo un proyecto de conversación en chino mientras estoy aquí en el país. Ya mencioné un poquito de eso en mi publicación pasada. Como tener conversaciones es uno de mis dos objetivos al estudiar un idioma extranjero (el otro es leer literatura), estoy tratando de tener todas las conversaciones posibles en chino todos los días. Aunque se me da bien iniciar conversaciones y también hablar rápido y más o menos con expresiones naturales (¿o medio “idiotas”? jajaja), mi principal problema es la falta de vocabulario. Aun así, ahorita estoy súper motivada para estudiar muchísimo chino por el resto de mi vida. ¡Se me hace divertidísimo e interesantísimo!

    Ojalá disfrutes las fotos y los videos.
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  • A Reunion in Taichung After 15 Years

    13 de abril, Taiwán ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I made it back to the city of Taichung to see and to stay with my great friends from my violin teaching days: Kevin and Vivian, parents, and John and Eric, sons. John now has a family with his wife Becca, and two children: Connor, 6, and Connie, 2 and a half. Eric has a girlfriend, Jessica. It was a great occasion to see everyone all together. Notably, all the adults in this group work together in the two “Cram Schools” owned by Vivian. The schools are a big success. “Cram School” is the Taiwanese term. We would probably call them “private English schools” in the States; that’s what they are called in Mexico. The difference is that in Taiwan, the children are made to study in small schools like these to make sure they can pass the English exams given in school.

    On one delightful afternoon, Julien, Peter and Irina—first friends in Maryland with the violin lesson crowd—came all the way down from Taipei to join together for a joyous extended feast with all of us together.

    And one memorable evening, John played viola together with me on violin—for the first time in 15 years! We both were inspired and very happy.

    Friendships and happiness reunited.
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  • My Night Market and Metro Excursions

    8 de abril, Taiwán ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    In Spanish and English (scroll down for the English)

    Mis paseos por el mercado nocturno y el metro

    Escogí mi Airbnb en Taipéi justo al lado del Mercado Nocturno de Shilin—uno de los mercados más famosos de la ciudad. El mercado como tal es un edificio largo y techado donde durante el día venden algo de comida y cosas, y en la noche se llena de souvenirs medio llamativos y juegos tipo feria para todas las edades. Pero la verdadera acción pasa en la noche, en los callejones y callecitas alrededor, como en un radio de 3 o 4 cuadras. Y básicamente todo gira alrededor de comer de todo—de esas cosas deliciosas que le dicen adiós a la cintura.

    Una característica de muchos barrios es que las calles pequeñas tienen callejones perpendiculares muy angostos a intervalos regulares. Mi depa está en uno de esos callejones, a no más de unos 30 metros de la entrada al mercado nocturno. El mercado no es ruidoso, así que disfruto de un silencio delicioso mientras estudio cada mañana y escribo cada noche. Las fotos muestran cómo se ve todo cuando el ambiente está más movido en mi zona.

    El 8 de abril hice una salida importante: me fui en metro hasta el Jardín Botánico de Taipéi. De verdad es un lugar frondoso y precioso. Tiene señalización discreta pero suficiente, una distribución muy agradable, excelentes instalaciones (muchos baños, bebederos y bancas) y un ambiente maravilloso. El trabajo académico y científico se hace en los edificios alrededor, pero este jardín es para relajarse y disfrutar. No hay nada que estorbe el placer de los sentidos: los sonidos de los pájaros y las ardillas, el olor a vegetación y a tierra húmeda, y la vista de tanto verde en texturas y arreglos súper armoniosos en cada sección. Las personas mayores se reúnen para ver aves, caminar, y saludarse y platicar entre ellas. Y todo esto, imagínate, mientras el resto de Taipéi está trabajando.

    En cuanto a mis metas con el idioma, tuve 7 conversaciones con desconocidos—todo un premio para aprender cositas sobre la gente y avanzar un poco más en sacar chino correctamente de mi boca. Pero mi actividad principal en el jardín fue simplemente irlo absorbiendo todo poco a poco.

    Después de eso, fui al Museo Nacional de Historia, que en realidad es una colección de objetos hermosos de la historia china. Los observé con mis binoculares de enfoque cercano, pero no tomé fotos. Cuando salí para regresar al metro, ya estaba anocheciendo. La mejor ruta era atravesar el Jardín Botánico—que está abierto hasta las 8 pm—y se sentía casi mágico. Grabé un videíto corto.

    Las últimas tres fotos son del Museo de Bellas Artes de Taipéi—más bien un museo de arte moderno. Vi las presentaciones de los diez finalistas (de entre 350 participantes) de la competencia anual del museo. Escogí la pintura de la niñita que sufre durante su práctica de violín bajo la presión de su mamá dominadora—tristemente, algo demasiado real en algunos casos.

    Disfruta las fotos de mi barrio y de mis paseos.

    IN ENGLISH!
    I chose my Taipei Airbnb location to be just next to the Shilin Night Market—one of the famous markets in the city. The actual Shilin Night Market is a long covered building that has some food and dry goods for sale during the day, and is full of gaudy souvenirs and carnival-style games for all ages at night. However, it’s at night in the alleys and small streets around it in a 3-4-block radius that the action takes place. And it’s mostly eating food of all kinds—definitely goodbye-waistline delicious.

    One characteristic of most neighborhoods is that many of the minor streets have narrow perpendicular alleys at regular intervals. My apartment is in one such alley, not more than 30 yards from the entrance to the night market. The market is not noisy, so I’m in blissful silence as I study every morning and write every evening. The photos show what the lively times look like in my surroundings.

    I did a major outing on April 8th, going by metro down to the Taipei Botanical Garden. It is indeed a lush and lovely creation. It has discrete but adequate labeling, a very pleasing layout, excellent amenities (abundant restrooms, drinking fountains, and benches) and a wondrous atmosphere. The academic/scientific work is done in surrounding buildings. But this garden is relaxing and beautiful. There is nothing to get in the way of sensory pleasure in the sounds of birds and squirrels, the scent of greenery and rich drenched earth, and the sight of so much greenery in harmonious textures and placements in every section. Senior citizens gather to watch birds, walk for exercise, and watch, greet, and chat with each other. And all this, mind you, while the rest of Taipei works!

    In terms of my language goals, I had 7 conversations with strangers—a jackpot for learning bits and pieces about people, and getting a few steps closer to getting correct Chinese out of my mouth. But my main activity in the garden was slowly taking in all in.

    After seeing it, I went to visit the National History Museum, which is really a collection of beautiful objects from Chinese history. I examined them with my close-focus binoculars, but I didn’t take any photos. When I left to go back to the metro station, it was dusk. The best route was through the Botanical Garden—open until 8 pm—which was ethereal. I did a short video of it.

    The last three photos come from the Taipei Fine Arts Museum—really a modern art museum. I saw the presentations of the ten top winners (out of 350 applicants) competing for the museum’s annual competition. I chose the painting of the little girl suffering during her violin practice at the hands of her dominatrix mother—all too true in some cases, unfortunately.

    Enjoy the photos of my neighborhood and my expeditions.
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  • Taipei in the Shilin District

    3 de abril, Taiwán ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    En español e inglés

    TAIPEI IN THE SHILIN DISTRICT

    After a journey of three full days (and who knows how many hours, exactly) I found my comfy little 1-room lodging in Taipei. I have to admit being quite proud of myself for not only getting from the airport to the middle of Taipei, but also navigating the rail and subway systems to get to the Shilin Metro stop, and then walking to the Shilin Night Market, where my apartment is located. For the last bit, however, I did depend on a sweet woman who helped me find the exact location of the apartment; it was a surprise to her, as she’d been shopping in the market for 30 years, and had never been to my little alley.

    After taking a very short walk around my neighborhood, I couldn’t wait to have a long sleep. After waking up, I went immediately to a food court nearby—a huge affair—and ordered a lovely “shrimp with scrambled eggs” and a small bowl of rice for dinner.

    Early the next morning (April 4th) I went out at 6:45 am, thinking the market would just be getting started. Surprise! It was boiling with people, busily buying gorgeous fresh produce trucked in from all over the country. I bought bread sticks, oranges and cherry tomatoes, and various wonders made from fish ball materials, and crab meat as well—all for eating today.

    People are speaking to me very normally in Chinese, and to my surprise, I can understand almost everything, as it’s just every day, simple talk.

    I spent the day walking north to the “Shilin Presidential Residence Park,” where the former residence of Chiang Kai Shek sits on a hill. The land below was first his private park, and then was opened to the public 20 years after his death. Seeing such rain-drenched greenery surrounding the park was so welcome after years of being in parched Oaxaca. It was full of beautiful garden designs, and of interesting chats and conversations in my awakening Mandarin. A highlight came at the end when an 88-year-old gentleman said to me, “We can find many beautiful things in life, but at this time, exchanging a few words with another person is something that can truly be described as beautiful.”

    The following day, April 5, 2026, I went to a treasured place, the National Palace Museum. The collection is mainly from Mainland China: and “was brought over during the late 1940s, primarily between 1948 and 1949, as part of the evacuation of artifacts from the Beijing Palace Museum due to the Chinese Civil War.” (The latter is from an article written in the Encyclopedia Britannica.) I went to my favorite sections of the museum from 15 years ago: calligraphy and ceramics. I wept upon witnessing the beauty of many exemplars in both of those sections.
    Enjoy the photos.

    EN EL DISTRITO DE SHILIN, EN TAIPEI

    Después de un viaje de tres días completos (y quién sabe cuántas horas exactamente), por fin encontré mi departamento chiquito de un cuarto en Taipéi, bien cómodo. La neta sí me sentí bastante orgullosa de mí misma, no solo por llegar del aeropuerto hasta el centro de la ciudad, sino también por moverme en el tren y el metro hasta la estación de Shilin, y luego caminar hasta el mercado nocturno, donde está mi departamento.

    Para la última parte, eso sí, tuve que apoyarme en una señora súper linda que me ayudó a encontrar la ubicación exacta. Hasta a ella le sorprendió, porque llevaba 30 años comprando en ese mercado y nunca había pasado por mi callejoncito.

    Después de dar una vueltecita rapidísima por el barrio, ya no podía más del cansancio y me dormí largo y tendido. Cuando me desperté, me fui directo a una zona de comida cercana—enorme—y pedí unos camarones con huevo revuelto buenísimos y un platito de arroz para cenar.

    A la mañana siguiente (4 de abril), salí a las 6:45 pensando que el mercado apenas iba a empezar… ¡y cuál! Estaba llenísimo de gente, todos comprando frutas y verduras fresquísimas que traen de todo el país. Compré palitos de pan (según no dulces), naranjas, jitomates cherry y varias cositas hechas con bolitas de pescado y carne de cangrejo—todo para comer ese mismo día.

    La gente me habla en chino de lo más normal, y para mi sorpresa, entiendo casi todo, porque es puro lenguaje sencillo del día a día.

    Ese día me la pasé caminando hacia el norte hasta el Parque de la Residencia Presidencial de Shilin, donde está en una colina la antigua casa de Chiang Kai Shek. Todo ese terreno era primero su parque privado, y luego lo abrieron al público unos 20 años después de su muerte. Ver todo ese verde empapado por la lluvia fue una maravilla después de tantos años en el clima seco de Oaxaca. Había jardines preciosos y tuve varias pláticas interesantes en mi mandarín todavía medio en proceso.

    Uno de los momentos más bonitos fue al final, cuando un señor de 88 años me dijo:
    “En la vida podemos encontrar muchas cosas hermosas, pero en este momento, intercambiar unas palabras con otra persona es algo que de verdad se puede llamar bello.”

    Al día siguiente, 5 de abril de 2026, fui a un lugar muy especial para mí: el Museo Nacional del Palacio. La colección es principalmente de China continental y “fue trasladada a Taiwán a finales de los años 40, sobre todo entre 1948 y 1949, como parte de la evacuación de artefactos del Museo del Palacio de Pekín durante la Guerra Civil China.” (Esto último lo tomé de un artículo de la Enciclopedia Britannica.)

    Fui directo a mis secciones favoritas de hace 15 años: caligrafía y cerámica. La verdad, hasta lloré al ver la belleza de muchas piezas en ambas secciones.

    Disfruten las fotos.
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  • A Drawing Gallery of Italians

    2 de noviembre de 2025, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    En inglés y español
    ITALIANI: DRAWINGS OF ITALIANS!
    In a small piazza in Trastevere, Piazza San Egidio, I saw an arresting portrait of Sofia Loren, publicizing an exhibit inside. I passed by several times on my way to other places, thinking it would be very expensive. One day, I stopped, went inside, and was told that it was free.

    The NYC Culture Club organized it, so that the artist, Salvatore Catalano, could have an exhibit there. He is a multi-faceted artist, living both in
    Florence and in the United States, very busy, and very inventive. I like drawings, so I spent a pleasant hour with these portraits. I especially liked how Mr. Catalano found a quote from most of his subjects, which you can see at the bottom of their portraits. Here is his website, if you’re interested: https://www.salvatorejcatalano.com/about

    ITALIANOS: ¡DIBUJOS DE ITALIANOS!
    En una placita chiquita en Trastevere, la Piazza San Egidio, vi un retrato impresionante de Sofía Loren que anunciaba una exposición adentro. Pasé por ahí varias veces camino a otros lugares, pensando que seguramente era muy cara. Un día me detuve, entré, y me dijeron que era gratis.

    La exposición la organizó el NYC Culture Club, para que el artista Salvatore Catalano pudiera exhibir su trabajo ahí. Es un artista muy versátil, que vive entre Florencia y Estados Unidos —súper ocupado y muy creativo. A mí me encantan los dibujos, así que pasé una hora muy agradable viendo esos retratos. Me gustó especialmente cómo el señor Catalano encontró una frase de la mayoría de las personas retratadas, que aparece al pie de sus retratos.

    Aquí está su sitio web, por si te interesa:
    https://www.salvatorejcatalano.com/about
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  • Rome Agrees With Me

    2 de noviembre de 2025, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    En inglés y español
    (Nov. 2, 2025)
    I must say that I was contented nearly all the time I’ve been in Rome. The October weather was lovely, the city streets were walkable, and always interesting. People I met along the way were courteous, friendly, and interested. I was happy with what I was doing with my language studies and explorations, I was pleased by the generally purposeful yet relaxed atmosphere, and I was happy that I was in Europe!

    The last time I was in Europe was in 2018, in Portugal, and before that, in 2012, in England and Spain. My greatest and longest stay was 1980-86, in London. So it has been very agreeable to be back. Here in Rome, I notice that (through listening around) there is an openness to communication and congeniality. Friends meet up in the cafes, chat animatedly, eat a lot of pastries, and drink many aperitifs. There is an air of culture on the streets, with many poles papered with schedules for seasons of theaters, of opera, and of concerts in the park. Men meet with men friends. Older people are on the arms of younger family members. Once a nearly blind woman asked to take my arm to cross a massive street. It was a sweet and companionable moment.

    Enjoy the photos!


    (escrito el 2 de noviembre de 2025)
    Debo decir que estaba contenta casi todo el tiempo que estuve en Roma. El clima de octubre fue encantador, las calles de la ciudad eran caminables y siempre interesantes. La gente que conocí por el camino era amable, simpática y curiosa. Estaba feliz con lo que estaba haciendo con mis estudios de idiomas y mis exploraciones, me complacía la atmósfera generalmente intencionada pero relajada, ¡y me alegraba estar en Europa!
    La última vez que estuve en Europa fue en 2018, en Portugal, y antes de eso, en 2012, en Inglaterra y España. Mi estancia más larga y significativa fue de 1980 a 1986, en Londres. Así que ha sido muy agradable estar de vuelta. Aquí en Roma, noto (al escuchar a mi alrededor) que hay una apertura a la comunicación y la cordialidad. Los amigos se encuentran en los cafés, charlan animadamente, comen muchos pasteles y beben muchos aperitivos. Hay un aire de cultura en las calles, con muchos postes cubiertos con horarios de temporadas de teatros, de ópera y de conciertos en el parque. Los hombres se juntan con amigos hombres. Las personas mayores van del brazo de familiares más jóvenes. Una vez, una mujer casi ciega me pidió que le tomara del brazo para cruzar una calle enorme. Fue un momento dulce y de compañía.
    ¡Disfruta las fotos!
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  • ROME WEEK 3: EXPLORING ROME MY OWN WAY

    20 de octubre de 2025, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    En inglés y español

    This trip, I had a definite repugnant reaction against going sightseeing. Part of it was a reaction to an adulthood (55 years) of constant museums, excavations, (formerly known as “ruins”) galleries, and historic places in and outside of cities. Another part was the frantic crowding, lining up, trillions of selfies, and monotonous bucket lists of the phalanxes of tourists that are every day in Rome—especially in the particularly lovely October weather.

    So, for more than half of my stay, I went out walking every day, binoculars around my neck, exploring some of Rome’s “riones,” historic administrative districts. Streets and sections of Monteverde, my neighborhood, Trastevere, Borgo, Colonna, Testaccio, Ostiense, and Flaminio. These walks were filled with centuries of architecture, in the midst of modern Rome.

    Then, I decided to go to offbeat, off the desperate tourist list, to a few very beautiful places, and one definitely weird one. The Museum of Rome in Trastevere had dioramas from the 1930’s, depicting the 1850’s, with giant papier mâché figures: in a post office, a wine shop, etc.—all quite dusty and cracking with age. Neapolitan presepe techniques did not stretch to Rome. But it did have a series of lovely watercolors of Trastevere on the walls opposite the dioramas, painted by a German artist. On the ground floor were four photographers’ exhipits, capturing various Italian village festivals

    The National Roman Museum in the Palazzo Massimo gave me the breathtaking Greek-influenced sculptural art of Rome before Christ. The Centrale Montemartini had equally astonishing sculptures, that were from various centuries, found under the grounds of a huge steam power plant. The museum incorporates both the art and the industrial works in the same space, which was extremely odd, but beautiful and geographically truthful.

    The MAXXI, National Museum of Contemporary Art and Architecture, was designed by Zaha Hadid. The building itself was the main attraction for me, and the current exhibit showing the world history of stadium building was my favorite show.
    I hope you enjoy the photos!

    EXPLORANDO ROMA A MI MANERA

    En este viaje, sentí un rechazo total hacia la idea de hacer turismo tradicional. En parte fue una reacción a toda una vida adulta (¡55 años!) llena de museos, excavaciones (antes llamadas “ruinas”), galerías y lugares históricos dentro y fuera de las ciudades. Y en parte también fue por el agobio de las multitudes, las filas interminables, los trillones de selfies, y las listas aburridas de “cosas que ver” que siguen en masa los turistas que invaden Roma todos los días—sobre todo con este clima tan lindo de octubre.

    Así que, durante más de la mitad de mi estancia, salí a caminar todos los días, con los binoculares colgados al cuello, explorando algunos de los “rioni” de Roma, los antiguos barrios administrativos. Calles y zonas de Monteverde, mi vecindario, Trastevere, Borgo, Colonna, Testaccio, Ostiense y Flaminio. En esas caminatas me rodeaban siglos de arquitectura, mezclados con la Roma moderna.

    Después decidí ir a lugares raros, fuera de las rutas turísticas desesperadas, a unos sitios realmente hermosos y a uno definitivamente extraño. El Museo de Roma en Trastevere tenía dioramas de los años 30 que mostraban escenas de los 1850s, con figuras gigantes de papel maché: en una oficina de correos, en una taberna, etc.—todo bastante polvoriento y resquebrajado por la edad. Las técnicas napolitanas de los “presepi” no se extendieron a Roma. Pero en frente de esos dioramas había una serie preciosa de acuarelas de Trastevere, pintadas por un artista alemán. En la planta baja, cuatro exposiciones de fotografía mostraban distintas fiestas de pueblos italianos.

    El Museo Nacional Romano, en el Palazzo Massimo, me dejó sin aliento con su arte escultórico romano influenciado por los griegos, de la época anterior a Cristo. El Centrale Montemartini también me impresionó: tenía esculturas asombrosas de varios siglos, descubiertas bajo los terrenos de una enorme planta de energía a vapor. El museo combina las obras de arte y las máquinas industriales en el mismo espacio—una mezcla rarísima, pero hermosa y muy fiel al lugar.

    El MAXXI, el Museo Nacional de Arte y Arquitectura Contemporánea, fue diseñado por Zaha Hadid. El edificio en sí fue lo que más me atrajo, y la exposición actual, que mostraba la historia mundial de la construcción de estadios, fue mi favorita.

    ¡Espero que disfruten las fotos!
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  • Rome Week 2: Breakthroughs!

    15 de octubre de 2025, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    (En español e inglés)
    In the course of long walks and intense cafe study sessions, the awaited breakthroughs occurred. The first was the surrender on the part of my Spanish to finally not interfering with my Italian. The second was hearing Italian in my head as I passed through my day outside of my apartment. These breakthroughs happened simultaneously on October 13, a very significant day.

    On this day, Andrea Lise, my Italian-learning friend from California, and I, met with Luca Lampariello for dinner. Luca is a world-famous polyglot (14 languages and counting) and language-study coach. Andrea and I met on his internet platform, “Smart Language Learning Academy.”

    Dinner was at a local well-loved restaurant, “L’antica Roma.” In the course of several hours, we spoke only Italian, with Luca never slowing down his zippy Roman-accented speech. It was at times utterly hilarious—and a literal banquet of Italian!

    The next day Luca posted a description of our meeting with a very complimentary post on his Smart Language platform (see photos) which received many comments from other members of the Academy. Also, he invited me to accompany him and his roommate to a “Couch Surfing” event at “Libreria Letteraria,” a bookstore/event place located not far from our apartments. After “language teaching sessions” at 5-6 tables—including French, Italian, Spanish, etc.—there was just a group of 35-40 people milling around, being sociable, and speaking different languages with each other. It was similar to language Meet-Ups in the States I used to go to, but much warmer and friendlier.

    After this, I was able to engage in much longer and deeper conversations with the people I met.

    Enjoy the photos! The one with the book cover let me start a conversation with two gentlemen who were also puzzling over the book’s title. (See the photo)

    ROMA SEMANA 2: ¡AVANCES!
    Durante mis largas caminatas y mis intensas sesiones de estudio en los cafés, ¡llegaron por fin los avances esperados!
    El primero fue que mi español, al fin, dejó de interferir con mi italiano.
    El segundo fue que empecé a escuchar el italiano en mi cabeza mientras pasaba el día fuera de mi apartamento.
    Estos dos avances ocurrieron al mismo tiempo, el 13 de octubre, un día muy significativo.

    Ese día, mi amiga californiana que también está aprendiendo italiano, Andrea Lise, y yo cenamos con Luca Lampariello.
    Luca es un políglota mundialmente famoso (habla 14 idiomas) y un profesor de aprendizaje de lenguas.
    Andrea y yo nos conocimos en su plataforma en línea “Smart Language Learning Academy”.

    Cenamos en un restaurante local muy querido, “L’antica Roma”. Durante varias horas hablamos solo en italiano, y Luca nunca bajó la velocidad de su rapidísimo italiano con acento romano. A veces fue absolutamente desternillante… ¡y un auténtico banquete de italiano!

    Al día siguiente, Luca publicó una descripción de nuestro encuentro en su plataforma Smart Language, con un mensaje muy halagador (ver fotos), que recibió muchos comentarios de otros miembros de la Academia.
    Además, me invitó a acompañarlo a un evento de “Couch Surfing” en “Libreria Letteraria”, una librería con espacio para eventos que queda cerca de nuestros apartamentos.

    Después de unas “sesiones de intercambio de idiomas” en 5 o 6 mesas —francés, italiano, español, etc.— el resto fue simplemente un grupo de 35 o 40 personas charlando, siendo sociables y hablando distintos idiomas entre sí. Era parecido a los “Meet-Ups” de idiomas a los que solía ir en Estados Unidos, pero mucho más cálido y amistoso.

    Después de eso, pude tener conversaciones mucho más largas y profundas con la gente que conocía.

    ¡Disfrutan las fotos! En una de ellas se ve la portada de un libro que me sirvió para empezar una conversación con dos señores que también estaban tratando de entender el título. (Ver la foto)
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  • Prelude in Mexico City

    4 de octubre de 2025, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    It was fun to spend a few days in Mexico City before going to Rome. It is vastly different from Oaxaca, in terms of area, population density, automobiles, and big-city atmosphere. It was my first time to stay in the Historic Center, only a few blocks from beautiful Bellas Artes, the lavish art nouveau/art deco performing arts center.

    Logically enough, I bought a concert ticket for the Sinfonica Nacional for my first night, which featured Shostokovich’s Eighth Symphony. It was beautifully performed, and quite moving. The second night I saw a Jean Genet play, “The Maids,” performed in Spanish at a small cultural center nearby. It was culturally enriching, as I read the play in English the next evening!

    During the four days I was there,, I wandered about, seeing interesting slices of Mexico City life, and relaxing before my trip to Europe.
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  • Rome Week 1: Getting Situated

    2 de octubre de 2025, Italia ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    (En español e inglés)My initial plan in coming to Rome for a month was to practice Italian. In 2024, I reviewed Italian for around 3 months, and went to Naples in December, for a month. Unfortunately I ended up not speaking much Italian at all, as I was speaking Spanish all the time with the Mexican archaeologist friend who accompanied me. So, after my surgery in late March of this year, I decided to spend the next 5 months reviewing and learning Italian and try again, in October 2025. The plan is working well: I am speaking Italian during my days here. BUT not so much. And there are many hours in the day.

    So I had to find an interesting approach to my days in this beautiful city. Every day after breakfast, I pick an important place to visit. I usually take public transportation halfway there, and walk the rest of the way. I always have my being alone, my binoculars at the ready, and my constant curiosity accompanying me, and voilà! I also find interesting people to talk to.

    The long walks become exhausting, so I stop for snacks and coffee in cafes along the way. There, I take out my Italian and Egyptian Arabic materials to study. When I get home to my Airbnb in the relaxed neighborhood of Monteverde, I cook a simple vegetable pasta, watch a film, read, and go to sleep. And so has passed my first week.
    Enjoy the photos!

    En español:
    ROMA SEMANA 1: ¡ADAPTÁNDOME!
    Mi plan inicial al venir a Roma por un mes era practicar italiano. En 2024 repasé italiano durante unos tres meses y en diciembre fui a Nápoles por un mes.

    Lamentablemente, terminé sin hablar casi nada de italiano, porque todo el tiempo hablaba en español con mi amiga arqueóloga mexicana que me acompañó.

    Así que, después de mi cirugía a finales de marzo de este año, decidí pasar los siguientes cinco meses repasando y aprendiendo italiano para intentarlo de nuevo en octubre de 2025.
    Y el plan va bastante bien: estoy hablando italiano durante mis días aquí… PERO no tanto como quisiera. Y el día tiene muchas horas.

    Así que tuve que buscar una forma interesante de pasar mis días en esta hermosa ciudad. Cada mañana después del desayuno, elijo un lugar importante para visitar.
    Normalmente tomo el transporte público hasta la mitad del camino y el resto lo hago caminando. Siempre voy con mi soledad, mis binoculares listos y mi curiosidad constante, ¡y voilà! También termino encontrando gente interesante con quien charlar.

    Las caminatas largas son agotadoras, así que me detengo para picar algo o tomar un café en los bares por el camino.
    Allí saco mis materiales de italiano y árabe egipcio para estudiar.
    Cuando vuelvo a mi Airbnb, en el tranquilo barrio de Monteverde, cocino una pasta sencilla con verduras, veo una peli, leo un rato y me voy a dormir.
    Y así ha pasado mi primera semana.

    ¡Disfrutan las fotos!
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  • #3. April 21 to June 14, 2023

    14 de junio de 2023, Mexico ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    In this latest part of this Udemy course, “The Complete Drawing Masterclass,” I’m drawing “portrait parts,” i.e., eyes, ears, noses, mouths, and hair. Then there are a few subjects of my own: a little dog, a stuffed goat head, and “souvenirs” of my left knee injury: a crutch and my knee injury, as seen from a view of the ligaments.

    Dates and explanations are on each picture.
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  • #2. March 28 to May 3, 2023

    3 de mayo de 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    This is what I’ve studied in my online “Complete Drawing Masterclass, lectures 56 to 100
    1. Applying value: hatching, cross-hatching and the “reductive method.”
    2. Drawing in one- and two-point perspective.
    3. The blocking-in method of drawing
    4. A few drawings of my own

    Dates and explanations are on each picture.
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  • #1 February 19 to March 26, 2023

    26 de marzo de 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    I am definitely doing a different kind of “trip” here: after a 24-year hiatus, I decided to start drawing again, and I wanted to keep a “diary” of my progress. Therefore, every “trip” here is a course or a topic, and every “footprint” in the trip will be my drawings. All will be in chronological order so I can keep track of my progress, and so can you.

    This first class of “Beginning to Draw Again” is called “The Complete Drawing Masterclass: From Beginning to Advanced” taught by Jonathan Simon. It is a course on a very well-thought-out platform called “Udemy.” In this footprint, I covered Lectures 17-22, doing gesture, contour, and structural drawings, This is the usual way drawing instruction starts for beginners.

    Although I’m not an actual “beginner” in this footprint, 24 years is a long time to not do something! Also, in 1998-99 as a true beginner, it somehow didn’t occur to me to practice every day. So my progress wasn’t good. This time around, at age 72, I’m practicing almost every day.

    Dates and explanations are on each picture.

    Cheers to all!
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  • FEBRUARY 2023: Outings and Carnival!

    28 de febrero de 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    OUTINGS AND CARNIVAL! FEBRUARY 2023

    First, a moment of memory and affection for my friend and neighbor Roger Bobo. I call him the Jascha Heifetz of tuba players. He also also taught the world through his many distinguished students that the tuba is a beautiful instrument. Please listen!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1txIgL8-2xY

    We started February with a Sunday excursion to the town of Cuilápam to see the ex-convento there. Twenty years after Spain’s conquest of Mexico in 1521, it is astonishing how many such gargantuan religious edifices were built. (Or maybe not “astonishing,” as the Mesoamerican peoples were forced to tear down their own buildings and use the same stones to build the Spaniards’ religious edifices.)

    At the ex-convent it was not only the day of a marriage, a baptism, and a quinceañera, but also Culiápam’s saint’s day, so there was much action in this ancient place. Enrique and I went for a walk in the surrounding farmed areas, and bought just-harvested black beans and peanuts from a local owner. And as always, there was a delicious meal in the market. Since we arrived late, we were served the last remaining dish: beef “panzita” in a tomato-y broth. It’s the only kind of tripe that Enrique can stomach.

    The following Sunday we went to the town of Ocotlán, home of the artist Rodolfo Morales. We visited the museum which his family’s Foundation is running to display his works in rotation. There are murals of his in churches in the Central Valley of Oaxaca, and in other places as well. Search for “Roberto Morales Ocotlán” for beautiful images. The market was quite a highlight—full of activity, color, noise, and so much to buy!

    Our third outing was to Mitla, which is famous for its Zapotec ruins and beautiful weavings. We saw the ruins first (of course all buildings were devastated by the conquering Spaniards, who forced the rightful owners to destroy their own buildings etc., etc.) Then we our market lunch, and a fascinating conversation with our hostess. She lived and worked as far north as Baja California, but made her way home south to Oaxaca twenty-odd years later. Finally, we bought lovely tablecloth “clothing” for Enrique’s and my dining tables.

    Carnival! It is a time for happy pre-Lenten celebrations, with many many devils. The highlight was a parade of the best of carnival from neighboring villages here in the Valle Central de Oaxaca.

    And oh! Of course there was Valentine’s Day.

    Please enjoy the photos.
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  • JANUARY 2023: The Family Pays a Visit

    18 de enero de 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    In my previous blog about my trip to northern Chile, I frequently received remarks like, “How wonderful that you’re traveling again!” This was strange to me, because every single day I’m in Oaxaca, I feel that I’m in the midst of a different kind of “travel:” that of traveling into the depths of a culture and my own soul. This is the fourth time in my life I’ve taken such a trip. The first was 1969-71 in Matsumoto, Japan; the second from 1980-86 in London, England, and the third from 1986-87 in Cairo, Egypt. But now, since August 2020, I’ve been on the journey of a lifetime—combining and using all of the knowledge of my 71 years, and learning utterly new things in depth as well.

    So I have decided to take you along on a monthly blog of this deeper-than-touristic voyage so you can see what it means to me. We’ll start with January.

    My pareja Enrique Suárez Murcio is one of four siblings: oldest brother Marco Antonio, deceased from COVID; older sister Rosalina—“Lina,” and younger brother Rafael. Lina and Rafael came to Oaxaca for the first time since their childhood visits: 36 years later! The purpose was to help out with a legal issue regarding the family home (write your wills NOW, everyone!) but it was also celebratory. After a day in Family Court, we spent the rest of the time enjoying each other’s company in various places. I am thrilled to be in the midst of Family, and equally grateful to be warmly accepted by them.

    The month rounds out with a few other bits and pieces: scenes from Oaxaca, two Oaxacan artists, some street scenes, a Sunday “dry season” outing in the hills to the north of the city, and the stressed-out neighbor’s cat sleeping off his relegation to “decidedly not so important” after the birth of his family’s first child.

    January!
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  • Atacama Desert: Red Rocks and Salt Flats

    14 de enero de 2023, Chile

    Atacama Desert: Red Rocks and Salt Flats

    This is a combination of my last two days’ tours on January 14 and 15, with photos so you can see the desert scenery. More explanations are given in the photo captions.

    Most of the area is up near the Bolivian border. In fact, in the salt flats tour, our guide was actually an English and Spanish teacher from La Paz, Bolivia. A few times we were above 4500 meters (14,700 feet) altitude! When I breathed, I couldn’t feel any result of being oxygenated. This resulted in my walking slowly and not talking to anyone— to try to get my breath back!

    On the last day, I shared the tour with the Bolivian guide, a doctor from Santiago specializing in geriatrics, and a retired Taiwanese chemical engineer. The four of us bonded immediately, and enjoyed each others’ company the whole day. A jackpot!

    And this concludes my trip to northern Chile.
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  • Atacama Desert: Valle de la Luna

    13 de enero de 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It seems that the tourism industry in each country I visit picks two or three major sights to fly visitors who have only a week to explore. The two places in Chile are Torres del Paine National Park and the Atacama Desert. Missing are a slew of gentler, lesser-known places that I have loved, such as the island of Chiloe. (I wrote about it in my first trip to Chile.)

    The Atacama Desert is a wild and beautiful place, with little water, high altitudes, and a variety of interesting altiplano plants and animals. The indigenous people who live there are the Likanantaí. They are the stewards of the lands that I visited with my tours, charging admission to each major stop, and watching over the innumerable visitors.

    Remember the NY Times article a few months ago about huge lithium deposits that were found in northern Chile? Well, this is where they were found—in the fragile reserves in the region. The rights to mine were sold by the Chilean government to a U.S. company, and all hell will break loose in 2030. You need must get to the Atacama soon, as much will be lost—especially in the salt flats you’ll see in my upcoming posts.

    These pictures show my first excursion.
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  • A 13-Hour Ride: La Serena to Calama

    11 de enero de 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I was so curious to see the deserts in northern Chile! After the green of Patagonia, I needed some contrast. So, I offer these photos of what my ride mostly looked like, to satisfy YOUR curiosity.

  • Penguins at Isla Damas

    8 de enero de 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    My second tour involved traveling north to see the endangered Humboldt penguins. I have to reveal at this point that taking tours was more of a necessity than just getting to see places I wouldn’t ordinarily be able to visit alone. It was also because cities in Chile are at this time extremely dangerous—especially for a solo traveler like me. Not only am I spotted in an instant as a foreigner, but will also obviously be carrying a phone, money, and other valuables. An easy target. Tours are the answer for staying in a group, and so far this has worked out quite well: great guides and pleasant company. The only sacrifice is my 50-year tradition of fascinating solo traveling. At least in Chile.

    Back to the penguins. There are now 12,000 mating pairs up and down the coasts of Chile and Peru, and their habitat is disappearing rapidly. We drove north for a little over an hour to the town of Los Choros to board a boat for Isla Damas. On the two-hour ride to and around the island, we saw a fabulous show of wildlife: sea lions, many sorts of terns, two types of cormorants, and—the penguins. The guide on the boat was excellent and could answer any questions. He was commenting on a non-penguin topic—the dangers of a new mining venture trying to start up in the area—as I took a video of the penguins. You can hear Chilean Spanish and watch the lovely creatures at the same time.

    To learn more about the penguins, here is a link:

    https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/species/bir…

    To honor my own wishes, our guide in the van made a stop so we could get out to examine the coastal flora at close range. I found that quite thrilling.

    To celebrate my final night in La Serena a few days later, I invited my always kind and affectionate landlady Paula out for mariscos, sea food, in a favorite restaurant of hers.

    Please enjoy the photos.
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  • From La Serena: Valle del Elqui

    7 de enero de 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I had the great fortune of being a kilometer away from an A+ tour agency, so I booked tours for the 2nd and 3rd of January there. I used to be a “tour snob,” trying to find places by myself. This is a good process in large cities where a map and a guidebook are enough, but to see what’s OUT of town, a tour delivers. Both of mine included 14-15 people, we rode in vans, and the drivers were also quite excellent guides who spoke extensively and knowledgeably throughout via a microphone on board.

    The Elqui River empties into the Pacific Ocean two kilometers north of where I was staying. But its origins are in the west Andes, from which it flows into a fertile valley to the west of La Serena. Here a good portion of Chile’s vegetables are grown—especially lettuces, avocados, and olives for olive oil.

    Our first stop was a dam of the river, and we dutifully walked over the top of it. Actually, the first stop of day-long tours is for breakfast—a kind of prize for the night owls who actually got up in time to catch the van.

    To wake us up further, the second stop was at a pisco distillery. Pisco is an unaged brandy made from Chilean (or Peruvian) white grapes, and is distilled (without water) at 38-48 proof. Our tour guide also had extensive knowledge of the process, so we did our thinking before our drinking, to paraphrase a Spanish saying. (“Primero el deber, luego el placer.”) The classic South American cocktail is a “Pisco Sour,” which is pisco with lemon juice and shaken a great deal. We sampled it without the shake-up.

    Other stops were at Vicuña, the birthplace of Gabriela Mistral (Nobel Prize winning poet), lunch in a nearby town, and on the way back, a place to buy goods produced in the valley.

    You can see from the photos that it was quite a lovely trip. I wasn’t my usual chatty self with the other tour members, but stayed quiet and observant for a change. (A big change.)
    Cheers!
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  • La Serena, second oldest city in Chile

    6 de enero de 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    La Serena is a medium-sized city of 250,000, located 248 miles north of Santiago. It is ChiIe’s second-oldest city, with many things of interest to me.

    As it turned out, there was a very nice surprise right across from my Airbnb property: a historic house where the poet Gabriela Mistral lived with her sister, and just behind it, a public library dedicated to her memory. I explored the house with a very knowledgeable guide, and got acquainted with “Gabriela,” as she is known in Chile: the first Latin American author to win the Nobel Prize in literature in 1945, and also an educator, diplomat, and public intellectual. The area of La Serena is full of places where she lived and worked.

    I also walked the short kilometer to the “Faro,” lighthouse for my view of the ocean, back to town to book sightseeing, tours and just. walk around. I headed to the small and excellently arranged Archeological Museum, where I learned about the local indigenous people, the Diaguita, who settled in the area (and also in northern Argentina) from around 900 CE. Such wonderful pottery they produced! There are still 88,474 Diaguitas living in Chile today.

    The city center was given a “Haussmann treatment” 1948-52 to make it homogenously neocolonial, or Spanish Colonial Revival style. It is pleasant enough, and there seems to be enough money in the city coffers to keep the “historical” buildings freshly painted. This is necessary, because there is a plague of graffiti writing and murals on every available wall in the city. Indeed, this graffiti plague (my opinion) is sanctioned by city governments now all over Chile.

    I finally ended my first day in a coffee shop studying Spanish. A wonderful surprise: I found out that José Vasconcelos, the author of our Oaxaca reading circle’s current book, invited Gabriela Mistral to Mexico when he was Minister of Education (1922-24) to establish educational programs. A perfect connection!

    Please enjoy the photos.
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  • VALPARAISO

    4 de enero de 2023, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    My first trip to Chile was in 2019, when I explored from Cochran in North Patagonia up to Santiago. Now I’m finally back, to explore another section of this oddly shaped country. (From north to south, Chile extends 4,270 km, 2,653 mi, yet is only 350 km, 217 mi at its widest point, and averages just 177 km, 110 mi east to west.) This time I’m planning to go north from Santiago (near the middle) and my first stop is in historic Valparaiso.

    I had a truly rough time getting to this, my first destination, due to the domino effect of a 4-hour delay of my first flight from Oaxaca to Mexico City. You will be spared the details, but I missed two flights and arrived a day late, and the culprit was the airlines, AEROMEXICO. Be warned!

    I chose to stay in Valparaiso’s Historic Center (a UNESCO World Heritage Site from 2003) to explore the two cities: the lower town full of official government buildings and banks, and the upper town of steep hills, reached by 140-year-old 10-person elevators. Up on the hills are historic houses and other lavish buildings from Valparaiso’s heyday as a major port—before the Panama Canal was built in 1914. The Museum of Fine Arts is in a former palace; the Museum of Engravings is in a stately home. The hills are truly interesting and beautiful, though some parts are very rundown, filthy, and dangerous.

    The first day I walked along the coast for the entire day. With my binoculars I spied flocks of terns, cormorants, and pelicans, as well as a little sea otter. There was edible tubular kelp called “cochayuyo,” which I ate in Castro, on the island of Chiloe on my first trip to Chile. There were two lighthouses, native cacti and succulents on the hillsides, and even a very long public beach. There was celebration in the air, as January 2nd is also a holiday in Chile. By the time I was ready for lunch, the restaurants were all out of the standard fish, so I had eel! It arrived fried, and quite delicious.

    The second day I visited the Museum of Fine Arts, which is in the art nouveau/deco Palacio Baburizza. They have a collection European art, as well as the Valparaiso art for which I was searching. (See photos) And then to the Natural History Museum for descriptions of flora and fauna of here, Central Chile.

    The third day I visited the Valparaiso Museum of Engraving, which displayed great artistry and variety of techniques. But because of a blooming cold, I rested most of the rest of the day, and felt better on my last morning.

    The prices here are much more than those of Mexico, so I’ve felt some shock. But how pleasant to see cats minding many businesses along the main streets, and a few nice places to drink coffee and study Spanish in the late afternoon. It’s not difficult to be a short-term resident.

    And here, as usual, is a link for further information about the city:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valparaíso

    Please enjoy the pictures.
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